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  1. Would there be any interest in a thread of the best tools for boat repair that I've found? Some are obvious, some I've never seen anyone else using. Since my shop was robbed I'm buying all new tools, so I can post my favorites here at the same time, some will have to be assembled/modified and I can show that a bit too. I'll include links to places that sell them in the US, I'm in Canada so linking to the stores I shop at probably doesn't help. We do a variety of work in house from fiberglass and gelcoat to mechanical, electrical, electronics, plumbing etc so the tools will mostly cover those areas, stuff like welding/canvas work is contracted out. Adjustable Wrenches Many people hate on adjustable wrenches, but a lot of the time in boats they're essential, and when you're on the back side holding nuts while someone else removes bolts, it's a lot easier to adjust instead of crawling out to grab a solid wrench, though when possible you should use a solid wrench or 6 point socket. I have three favorite adjustable wrenches, each covers a range of use, if I had to pick one to buy first it would be the British right angle, because most of the tasks for the other two can be handled with tools you can easily buy locally or borrow. Quick tip for using this tool: always turn towards the solid jaw(if you are looking at the wrench with the adjustable jaw to your left, solid to the right, then turn it clockwise). This reduces them getting loose on the nut during a job, as well as getting sloppy over time because the load is pushing the moveable jaw down against the slide instead of pulling it up and away. The British right angle adjustable spanner. Link to buy: Find on ebay, not available new I like the 4" model best. They are antiques now, but you can still get one for under 20$. No modification required, but disassembly, cleaning, lubricating and reassembling is a good idea since I've never found one less than 50 years old. While they are apart clean the sliding area with steel wool and apply a thin grease rather than oil. I usually sand the outer edges of the jaws if there is any distortion and clean up the faces with a little 600 grit sandpaper on a flat piece of aluminium scrap. Reasons I use them: 1. They are very sturdy for their size, my 4" one has been used on some shockingly large fasteners and can be driven with a drift and 3lb bash hammer without failure. 2. Because they have so much thread engagement on the adjustment nut, and it's so far from the load on the jaws they do not back off over time like a standard adjustable. 3. They have a large jaw capacity for their size, my 4" one opened 1.5" 4. The moveable jaw is also the outermost part of the wrench, so they can get into smaller spaces and turn farther per rotation than a standard adjustable. 5. The jaws are very wide and very square for their size, so engagement on the nut is good. 6. Because of their right angle design, they can be rotated 90 degrees and put on the nut with the tips of the jaws facing whatever the nut or bolt is in. This is a little hard on them, but lets you grip nuts like a socket and ratchet where getting one is isn't possible. The Snap-on adjustable wrench. link to buy: https://store.snapon.com/Wide-Mouth-Adjustable-Cushion-Handle-6-Wide-Mouth-Adjustable-Wrench-P884662.aspx I like the 6" wide mouth size the best, with smooth jaws to avoid damaging faces. The "flank drive" option seems good but will mess up plating. It seems to be the best balance of size/jaw capacity/leverage for getting into awkward places, the rubber grip is tough and doesn't fail, can withstand cleaning with solvents too, and the chrome plating is of reasonably good quality, they are fairly precise in their adjustment although not as precise as the Milwaukee adjustable wrench or the british right angle spanner, the edges of the jaws are sharp instead of rounded which I prefer. The only failure I've had on one was the chrome flaking near the jaw edge after a few years of use but they warrantied it and replaced it with a brand new wrench. They are the best compromise I have found in the 6" size, different brands have different advantages, Milwaukee has the best most precise adjustment that doesn't back off(but the handles are not comfortable and jaw capacity is lower, plus the whole wrench is thicker where you don't want it to be, Crescent Wideazz wrenches open wider but their rubber handles suck and the heads are too big, Dewalts are crappy in this size, Craftsman ones just suck all around in comparison. Modification: Put a bit of red heat adhesive heat shrink as used on battery cables over the exposed end of the handle below the rubber grip, this prevents accidental shorts if you are foolish enough to drop one across the terminals of a battery, or are working around live circuits such as a starter. Both are things you should avoid when possible, by disconnecting battery grounds before working on anything, but mistakes happen and it's cheap insurance. Also gives you a 50% chance that when dropped it will land on the rubber instead of metal and avoid damaging wood finishes/gelcoat/paint. Reasons I use them: 1. Best compromise between jaw capacity and size. 2. They are thin for their size but not too thin. 3. The handle is very comfortable even at high load. 4. They are well built with an excellent warranty. Dewalt adjustable spud wrench: link to buy: http://www.toolup.com/DeWalt-DWHT70295-16-Spud-Wrench I use the 16" size. These are the wrench equivalent of a BFH(big fucking hammer). You don't need it often, but when you do, there isn't any substitute. Other brands don't have the aggressive knurling or have additional gimmicks/loose adjustment on the jaws. They are mostly used by ironworkers for lining up beams and holding nuts. Big enough to double as a small hammer that you can sneak in through small spaces when you need to tap on something. Some even have hammer faces on the side but this makes them tricky to use on a boat. Modification: None. spray them with a corrosion protectant like Boeshield T-9 because they are bare steel and throw in toolbox until needed. Reasons I use them: 1. Big ugly tool for big ugly jobs, like the right angle spanner they have a large capacity versus length, and the very thin tip can squeak between things when clearance is an issue, but is tough enough to put a lot of leverage on. 2. They have very wide jaws, and can be cranked down very tight when dealing with a damaged or rusted nut/bolt when a standard box end wrench won't work. 3. The spud end is designed for lining up iron beams, but it works for the same purpose in boats, because of the tapered style you can put it in a hole in two things(usually something like an engine bed+stringer, big heavy brackets, driveshaft coupling) and use it to line things up, while you slide in a bolt in another mounting hole to hold it. 4. The spud end can act as a very long punch/crude chisel because of the tip grind or to poke holes in things like stubborn cans. 5. Where a hammer won't fit the wrench will, like a skinny ball pein. Some people will hate this idea, but they are fully hardened and frequently used for this purpose.