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    • Zapata

      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

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Found 5 results

  1. Santana 20 keel reinforcement

    First time poster, long time browser. I recently purchased a Santana 20 that needs a little TLC. (Looking to PHRF race on Lake Norman in NC) I discovered that the keel bolts and nuts (3/4") are quite corroded and in anyone's book...suspicious at best. So, Instead of disturbing the nuts that are possibly contributing a small amount to the strength of the keel/hull joint, I am contemplating a strategy to strengthen with additional bolts. Here it goes. There 5 keel bolts from Schock. 2 front, 2 rear, and 1 astern. My plan is to add two additional 3/4" threaded rods between the existing sets of bolts down the centerline of the boat. Drill each hole at least 12" into the lead of the keel. Get as much of the debris out as possible. Partially fill the holes with epoxy (Proset M1033 resin and M2036 hardener), and drop threaded stainless rod in until the hole is completely filled with epoxy. This should leave me with ~1" of exposed threads. Let this set for a few days, then tighten up the connection with stainless washers and nuts. My only real concern is how well the epoxy will bond to the lead. I am told the good people at West Systems that there should be an excellent bond between the lead hole and the stainless all thread. Does anyone have an experience with this or a similar approach for repair? Thanks, Morgan
  2. J35 Shoal Keel

    I purchased "Foot Loose" a couple of months ago, a 1985 J/35; the hull and deck is solid, no blistering at all, just needs new bottom coating and deck will probably get new gel coat and non-skid. The interior,.............., that's going to be a job! I'm investigating swapping the 7' draft standard keel for a shoal draft keel, maybe a wing keel, etc but ideally need a 5' max draft keel to be able to sail on Lake Arthur; the J Boat factory optional shoal keel is 6', I haven't contacted Mars Keel yet regarding a custom keel or keel draft reduction but will give them a shout in January if I'm unsuccessful sourcing a used keel. Does anyone out there have a spare shoal keel you'd be willing to sell? Rick
  3. Hi, I'm fixing a couple of small dings on the underside of my boat - I'm looking for some opinions with which to concoct my final moves. 1) Rudder Bearing tube crack - when I was dropping the rudder and bearing a small stress crack appeared on the rear end of the rudder bearing - it appears as if this were fixed before. One whole section of it seems a little loose which suggests to me I should cut out and either replace or epoxy back in. Suggestions? Image 1 - Interior of above mentioned crack, white area is what I suspect was previous repair Image 2 - Exterior view of above mentioned crack 2) Trailing edge of keel gouge - the trailer operator took a gouge out of the trailing edge of my keel with the chains he was using to cinch up my boat stands. I ground away all of the damaged material and was wondering if this was something I should fix with epoxy/filler, fairing compound, or epoxy/filler beneath fairing compound 3) Keel has slight crack at keel to hull joint. Moisture had seeped in, so I opened this area and for the past 2 months moisture has slowly come out. It has finally stopped. I want to close this back up and am wondering the same as #2, should I use a epoxy with a structural filler, fairing compound, or both? Full disclosure: When I say "epoxy with filler" I have actually been using premixed vinylester with glass fibers and silica from Fiberlay. I do have epoxy and colloidal silica filler I can use since I'm below the waterline, but do have confidence in the above product. Thanks,
  4. Keel well trap door

    I own a 10-year-old Open 500, a small 5 m, 300 kg, sportboat with a 90 kg rotating keel. In the up position the keel is inside a well and in the down position a trap door slides into position to close the large opening. I had noticed my boat is a tad slower than other Open 500 in class races. When I dived to clean my keel (task that is impossible to do when the boat is up on its trailer) I noticed that my trap door was slightly open (about 15 mm) in its aft part. Here is the view on land. I live near the plant of Hobie Cat Europe, the new builder of the boat and ask them to fix it. They told me that the trap door has a permanent bent and should be changed. I okayed that having basically no choice. But the technician who issued the report also wrote that "the turbulences consequent to this are not the main reason for the slowing down of the boat as its antifouling has a granular aspect and instead should be the main reason". It is true that all other class boat I race against are dry sailed but my antifouling is VC 17m Extra. I must also add that I did not clean thoroughly my hull before bringing it to the plant. My question to the forum is this : I do not think that this unwanted gap at the end of my keel well is minor to the quality of the finish of my hull. Do you agree? PS: more details in French at Fermeture du puits de quille
  5. Anyone know how far below waterline j35 hull is cored. How close to keel.