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    • Zapata

      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

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  • Sailing Anarchy

Found 7 results

  1. B&G T12 Touchscreen - No Power

    Hello, I recently obtained a B&G T12 Touchscreen with no cables, and have been trying to get it to power on with no success. I connected some wires to the +/- pins on the back of the unit, pressed the power button and nothing happens. Does anyone here have any familiarity with these units? Do any of the other cables need to be connected in order for the unit to power on? I just simply want to test for power so I can sell it. I currently have the back of the unit off and was checking for discrepancies but could not notice anything off the bat (please see attached photos). I certainly appreciate any advice at this point. Thank you in advance
  2. I am brand new to forums. Like I have no idea what I'm doing, but I'd really like to join an online community to have my questions answered and bounce some ideas about sailing. I hope I've come to the right place. Anyways, I've been thinking lately about replacing all of the wood on my boat with a composite or recycled plastic material. Specifically the rails and trim. Not so much concerned with the interior teak but definitely want to replace the teak on deck. I understand expansion may be an issue. MAY BE... but I was just wondering if anyone has actually done this and what was the outcome? Are you happy you went with plastic? I'm mostly concerned with maintenance. My teak is weathered and I'd rather not mess with sanding and re-varnishing. Plastic is low maintenance,long lasting,and strong. But is it practical for boat trim and railing? I need some input please. T.I.A
  3. Bulkhead material?

    Anyone know what Melges uses for their bulkheads in the 24 and 32? Looks like HDPE, but unsure. Thanks...
  4. Just taken the mast off our boat to inspect the deck underneath a deck stepped mast. The area is sagging slightly 1.5-2cm right underneath the mast. Looking at the core (ply wood?) it's damp but not soaking wet. The boat is a scandi built keel boat from 1974. (Knarr Variant if anyone needs to know). The general layout of the coach roof under the mast: the the mast step on a big block of teak, sitting on top of the glass and about a 2cm oblong core, that fits neatly between two bulkheads in the cabin - but doesn't cross them. From the look of it someone has filled the dip with filler and replaced everything at some point in the past. I wouldn't mind avoiding re-coring this are of the deck if possible - because there are a lot of other projects happening and it isn't a great time of year to attempt this outside. Deck is stable and has been for a few years (1 season for us and PO didn't seem to do structural stuff). The boat is outside and in the water at the moment - which makes epoxy work a little more difficult. My questions are: 1) is there a temporary fix for this that will do? I'm thinking drill holes and fill it with thickened epoxy in the affected area. 2) if re-coring is the only option: Would 5mm of CSM, 15mm ply and 5mm CMS/weave be an acceptable alternative to putting in 20mm of core?
  5. Looking for a reputable fiberglass repair facility in the Annapolis Md. area that could handle repairing a Thistle that got T-Boned in a port Starboard crossing over the weekend. Damage to the port side of the boat has the seat separated from the hull and the rail most likely in need of replacement. Anyone in the area have any recommendations?
  6. Olson 30 Mast Repair

    A few months back my Olson was t-boned by a Cal 39 during the pre-start of a local Polar Bear race. We were on starboard and thankfully it wasn't very windy. The Cal 39 put a hole in my hull and dented the mast with the anchor on its bow (see photos). His insurance is paying but they are moving at a glacial pace. A new Ballenger rig has been ruled out, too expensive, and we can't find any used masts that wont cost more than they're worth to ship to the PNW. I was wondering if anyone could tell me more about sleeving? What are some pros and cons? How would it change the bend profile? The mast has a previous repair just below the deck from a poorly placed hole and too much backstay (see last photo), how does this complicate things? I'm envisioning that we will need a sleeve from the keel to above the boom. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  7. Laser nose job

    Hi All, Has anyone got any suggestions on how to fix up this ding? I'm quite handy with some fiberglass and resin however this one has me stumped. cheers Luke