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Found 9 results

  1. Hi Everyone, My brother and I continue to having fun getting our Melges 24 (USA041) ready. This forum has been very helpful in the past, so figured I would give it another shot. We are rigging up our Jib, we purchased a new forestay (old style) from Melges and we have the Harken furler drum. From reading the manual (Devoti) we understand that: 1. Jib should go clockwise around the forestay. 2. Furler line (in the drum) should go the counterclockwise. Where we are a bit confused is that the forestay has two small wire blocks (picture attached), any insight on rigging this line? I have attached a second picture from another Melges but again the manual is unclear on what this line is actually doing/used for. Thanks in advance for any insight. Cheers, Drew
  2. brucephenry

    Changing Mast Rake

    I am the new owner of a Cascade 29' (1979 hull, splashed in 1985). The standing rigging appears to be original and have some "challenges". The mast has no detectable rake (I hung a weight from the mainsail halyard sheave and measured aft along the boom). As the boat is new to me, I don't have much experience sailing her under different conditions to decide if I want to alter the rake to provide more/less weather helm. So that leaves me with two questions: How much rake should I build in? Is there a simple formula for altering stay lengths to achieve a specific rake [like SIN(change in rake) ~ (change in forestay)/(mast height) or something] There are several cracked swages and I don't feel comfortable risking the rig by going out for extended dorking around under sail to determine how she feels currently. Also, with the current rig, the mast is not plumb starboard/port by about 1.5" and the "long side" backstay turnbuckle is double-blocked. So there's that.
  3. I have a 6mm Norseman turnbuckle stud on my forestay. I'm replacing the standing rigging and I would like to re-use the fitting if possible. I have spare Tylaska cones for the Norseman. Is a 6mm Norseman compatible with 1/4" 316 wire?
  4. Izzy

    Mast vegetation??

    New boat, it has vegetation or some kind of lichen on the standing rigging and a glob of something green and growing at the top of the mast. What is it and how do I get rid of it? The concern is that it is weakening the rigging - and it's gross. Boat lives in freshwater in Alabama - stuff grows here. I thought about using bleach, but again, probably not such a good idea on the wire rigging - Thx. I'll try to post some pics of it later.
  5. Riggers, Rope Gurus, Splicing Geeks, I'm looking for some comments and criticisms on mooring bridle/pendant hybrid I'm working on. Yes, that is one piece of line. That allows me to not be limited to a length due to bury requirements. No, not all the splices have been sewn, I don't like the biggest thread I have in my supplies right now. The buried section will have extra flotation in order to keep things from wrapping on the ball. I'm in a spot where I see a far amount of wind against current. The current "Y" bridle using 3 separate lines make the whole thing is so long that the ball will wind up aft of my keel (high aspect) and that's bad. I'm working off a setup my mooring provider came up with, but he has never worked with Tenex TEC before. I do all the rigging work on my boat and am helping him to come up with possibly a better mouse trap. --Matt Boat - 30' & ~7000 lbs Materials - 5/8" Tenex TEC; HD Suncor 316 SS Fed Spec thimble
  6. I picked up an old 5o5 on a trade last year. I normally crew on "Tigger," an FT10, up on the Puget Sound. I haven't rigged a boat before and the previous owner stripped the boat down and refinished the hull. I know these are technical boats and I'm probably in over my head. I have a couple friends who are willing to help me do the work who have rigged larger boats but the 5o5's seem to have a lot of nuances and a very class specific set up. I'm just wondering if there is anyone local who might be willing to give me some advice on rigging this thing. If I could drive it somewhere and bring a permanent marker and a notebook and just pick someone's brain for a bit I would beyond grateful. A little more about the boat, it's hull #5973. I have all the rigging that came off the boat minus lines, sheets, halyards. It came with two sets of sails, one of which hasn't been used. It came with a trailer with the removable dolly. If I can't get in contact with anyone local I'd appreciate any advice I can get to make this happen.
  7. rch701

    Swage Stops

    I am running a second hand Etchells 22 jib on my H-boat 27 and it is a few inches longer on the luff than my boat's halyard was setup for. My halyard is wire to rope with a swage barrel stop that catches on a track with a magic block setup for luff tension adjusting. Since my jib is taller the stop no longer lands on the track. I am not super familiar with swages. Can you come after the fact with a stop and crimp it on the cable? Or should I cut off the end of the cable and shorten it?
  8. Has anyone see/heard of this? Thoughts? Check out VMG TENSION TOOL on #indiegogo! http://igg.me/at/SSWERHtxyCw
  9. Hi all, New member here with a question about the construction of the Low Friction Ring on a Dyneema loop. For a winter time project, I've decided to learn to splice Dyneema lines working up to making soft-shackles and my own low-friction rings with the dyneema loops. e.g. http://www.antal.it/ENG/rl40_ring__loop_en Can someone explain to me how these are made? Is a continuous loop first made and then seized using dyneema whipping twine to secure the ring? Thanks for your help and for letting me join. Christine