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Found 7 results

  1. brucephenry

    Rudder Repair - Cascade 29

    Okay, got the rudder out (hat tip to @longy for advice on removing the head) and on the bench to ponder my options. I have a few questions. First off, the rudder was submerged in freshwater for about a week after the “event”. When removed, I can best describe it as being “buoyant as hell”, the rudder shot to the top of the lake with me in tow. How long should I let it dry out for before glassing in a repair? Speaking of glass, what weight/type cloth would y’all recommend for this type of repair? I’m also halfway considering cutting away enough of the section that’s damaged to clear the prop. Although I’m seriously doubting the kid is gonna try the reverse the tiller experiment again.
  2. brucephenry

    Removing rudder head and tiller

    Okay, so last weekend the kid wondered what would happen when you’re backing up and you rotate the tiller through 360 degrees. Turns out the answer is “the rudder goes into the prop”. Awesome. Well now he knows that. So, in preparation for the dropping of the rudder, I need to remove the tiller and rudder head assembly from the top of the rudder stock. Fin type rudder on a Cascade 29. My question is, is there anything other than the assembly pictured below holding the rudder stock in the tube? I ask because I don’t want to accidentally drop it before I’m ready, but I also want to do most of the disassembly before putting on my wetsuit.
  3. Hi there, I'm looking for advise on re building rudder and daggerboard for a 26' trimaran. This is the main step in my refiting project and although I may have and idea would like to get some inputs. Actually both of them were balsa core and are completely soak thus heavy and potencially rotten inside. My plan is to make a female mold for each using the existing shapes and even reutilizing the daggerboard one as the case. I was thinking to go for a 5 mm carbon fiber core and then foam and the carbon again. Please let me have you thoughs Many thanks
  4. Thread subtitle "Saying 'Fuck' a Lot in New Zealand" Back in April we noticed some water oozing in from the top of our rudder post. It actually wasn't as bad as it looks, as the corrosion was mostly surface and the locking ring was quite solid, but we didn't know that until it was cut off. Being cautious people, we decided it needed to be sorted before heading off shore. So we ordered new seal kits from Hallberg-Rassy (thanks for sending it UPS, BTW, they suck getting things through customs...took almost two weeks extra!) and made arrangements to get it dealt with. Dropping the rudder is outside my comfort zone. So we haul the boat and get the seals replaced. Incidentally we also put a new turbocharger and aftercooler on the engine at the same time because, well, efficiency and what the hell, it's only money. Boat goes back in the water, everything looks good. No leaks, no drips and we're moving faster with less smoke now that the turbo actually spins again and doesn't shoot oil into the engine. We sail from Tauranga to Opua - 180 miles - and start looking for weather to leave for New Caledonia. En route we checked the rudder...all good! Then a couple of days after we get to Opua we notice this: See that little stream of oil coming down on the right? Yup, days after we sailed the boat for 24 hours it started leaking oil from the brandy new seal at the top. No water though. This morning, we spotted this - a little bolus of water in the oil. With the freezing-arse cold and humidity here in the NZ winter it's been practically raining inside the boat every morning, so it COULD be water from condensation. But it has us worried. Of course this completely buggers up our chances of catching the weather window for New Cal that is finally opening this weekend, if we assume heading off shore on a 950 mile trip to a non-English speaking country in the tropics with sub-excellent support, supplies and parts delivery isn't a good idea. I don't even now if I'm just looking to bitch a lot or if any of you guys have any better ideas than "pull the boat out of the water again and rip all this shit apart to have a look" since we're rather stumped. The contractor that did the original seal replacement is six hours away and not easily involved again. While not washing their hands, their view is "we think we put it together right, so something else is probably wrong." And sending their guy up here from two hours south of Auckland will be on my nickel. Here's a drawing what it's supposed to look like - the bottom set of rings. Because what the hell, why not? Been trying to sort this bullshit since April, though it's better here than in New Caledonia I suppose.
  5. bodega87

    Wooden Rudder repair

    I have some cracks in the wooden rudder. Previous owner "repaired" by filling with plumbers putty and painting over. I'd like to do something a bit more secure. I've acquired some CPES and filler from http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/ Plan is to sand her down, coat with the cpes, filler and coat again before painting. Any snafus in my plan? There is strangely not a lot of information specific to wood rudder repair online.
  6. So, here I am attempting to doing a full bottom job on my 35' boat. Bit of a jump into the deep end of the pool for me, but how else is a bloke gonna learn, right? Anyway, much has been going on in life on the hard stand. Hull mostly freed of decades of over painted antifoul, numerous pot holes badly filled dug out and a number of larger osmosis blisters found. Anyhow, I digress from the subject matter... I ended up dropping the rudder myself and what an interesting experience this was. Never have I done this before and now I know how these heavy rudders actually stay in a boat. Mine anyway! Got it all apart in pieces and now I find that there is a crack developing along the seam where the two half shells of the rudder meet. Water had also been absorbed and after grinding/sanding it to bare glass, discoloration and possible glass rot was found. Now I prefer to do things right first off, but I think I would be over my head as a first project to 'split' the rudder halves, dig out the existing foam, fix up any fiberglass and rebuild with expanding foam injection?! I mean I'm great at taking things apart and by my calculation, that is half the job done, but who knows right? The other option would be to dremel around the seam to open up a way to dry/drain the innards, then fill the gap with thickened epoxy, slap over a layer of epoxy and bi-axial cloth, fair and barrier coat. Done! Not the most elegant solution, but would it work? Like I said, I'm a novice here, so any advice on how to proceed is muchly appreciated. I better try and figure out how to get some pictures up for you, so you can make better sense of my ramblings.
  7. Hey SA. So I just bought a semi-beat-to-shit 1996 Contour 30 MKII Trimaran for cheap, and need some advice. For those unfamiliar, a Contour 30 is a foldable tri similar to a corsair or dragonfly. My current dilemma with the boat (of which there are many) is the lack of a working rudder. Currently have a rudder blade in the works, but the case that came with the boat (not original to the boat) is not gonna cut it. Previous owner designed the case and it sucks. My question is, If you were to design a ruddercase for a 30' tri that will sail/race in the Annapolis, what would be your priorities/what would you avoid? FYI I've reached out to CCI and I cannot justify spending that much on a new cassette-style setup. I am currently leaning towards buying the transom gudgeons+rudder gudgeons for an F-31 and building a kickup rudder similar to this. My uncle is a machinist and plans to cut out the plates from aluminum since the quote I received for just those cheek plates was over $600. Does anyone have feedback about this rudder setup? Things you would have improved? Would you do something different? Corrosion? Cheers!