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Found 10 results

  1. So, here I am attempting to doing a full bottom job on my 35' boat. Bit of a jump into the deep end of the pool for me, but how else is a bloke gonna learn, right? Anyway, much has been going on in life on the hard stand. Hull mostly freed of decades of over painted antifoul, numerous pot holes badly filled dug out and a number of larger osmosis blisters found. Anyhow, I digress from the subject matter... I ended up dropping the rudder myself and what an interesting experience this was. Never have I done this before and now I know how these heavy rudders actually stay in a boat. Mine anyway! Got it all apart in pieces and now I find that there is a crack developing along the seam where the two half shells of the rudder meet. Water had also been absorbed and after grinding/sanding it to bare glass, discoloration and possible glass rot was found. Now I prefer to do things right first off, but I think I would be over my head as a first project to 'split' the rudder halves, dig out the existing foam, fix up any fiberglass and rebuild with expanding foam injection?! I mean I'm great at taking things apart and by my calculation, that is half the job done, but who knows right? The other option would be to dremel around the seam to open up a way to dry/drain the innards, then fill the gap with thickened epoxy, slap over a layer of epoxy and bi-axial cloth, fair and barrier coat. Done! Not the most elegant solution, but would it work? Like I said, I'm a novice here, so any advice on how to proceed is muchly appreciated. I better try and figure out how to get some pictures up for you, so you can make better sense of my ramblings.
  2. Passport111

    Longitudinal Rudder movement

    We've had our boat (1985 Bianca 111 with balanced spade rudder) now for 3 years and this year when we put her up for winter storage I noticed a little play in the rudder. I was interested to look when she came out of the water as I could hear a bit of a thump and felt movement in the rudder stock when in larger waves from the aft quarter towards the end of the season. The movement is only for/aft (longitudinal) and there is none laterally. I would estimate that the movement at the bottom of the rudder is about an inch when I pull aft. I don't expect anyone to be familiar with this boat or its associated rudder mounting hardware. However, I'm wondering if I could get some advice on the usual suspects when it comes to diagnosing what is failing. Could this be something that just needs adjustment or am I likely looking at dropping the rudder and replacing the bearings?
  3. I'm trying to drop the rudder and change the bearings on my Prima 38, however I can't unscrew the top aluminum nut as it is stuck, I'm thinking my last resort is to cut the nut in two halfs and break it loose, however I do not want to cut it if I can't replace it. Does anyone recognise a rudder with a top aluminumnut like this? It's fitted on a Prima 38, does anyone know how I can find a new nut? Any ideas on rudder manufacturers from the UK that might have been involved in the Prima 38 design or construction? Any tips on unscrewing are welcome, but I've tried various sprays for lubrication, heat, large tongue-and-groove pliers and hammer/skrew driver .... still no luck
  4. Help! I'm in need of recommendations regarding a project boat (Ranger 26-2) that I picked up recently and what to do about the rudder now that I have peeled back the layers of paint, filler etc. that was applied over top of VC17 by previous owners. I'm looking for any information that might be out there relative to the construction design and what options I might consider for repairing this rudder or whether my time and money are better spent on finding (or making) a replacement. I'm comfortable with glass and carbon composite lamination, vacuum bagging and filling and fairing work. Just a bit uncertain regarding the obvious signs of impending failure of this particular rudder and whether a reinforcing skin of glass would be sufficient to buy some time while a more permanent solution can be decided upon or if it would be a waist of time and money albeit a small one. Anyone know where an old Ranger 26-2 might be found that has a rudder I could salvage?
  5. Anyone recommendations for someone who could build me a new rudder and lifting keel for a lightweight 28 footer. Preferably based in Sydney or surrounds?
  6. martin.langhoff

    Dinghy pintle-gudgeon looseness

    We have a pair of Topper/Topaz Taz dinghies (one of which we pimped out with a crazy asym spinnaker recently ;-) ). Both have a lot of play in the rudder, the pintle/gudgeon coupling is very loose. It's simple sheet metal, afaict. Any suggestions on how to tighten the setup, _without replacing the parts_?
  7. I have a 2001 Beneteau First 47.7 with a rudder problem.The rudder is stiff when turning, this is the second time I have had this problem. The first time it was caused by a head of a SS screw that had broken off on the shaft chase and jammed up the bearings and the bearing carrier was turning inside the bearing housing. I was able to get the rudder out by banging it with a large block of wood with a sledge hammer. I replaced the bearing chase with a new Jefa bearing made for this housing. I did not replace the housing.Currently I am on the hard in Guaymas, Mx. I have done the following things;• Removed quadrant• Removed SS pin• Removed SS hose clamp• Moved V-gasket up the rudder shaft• Removed top retention rod and thrust bushingRudder does not want to come out, the rudder is impossible to rotate by hand, using two 2X4 as a tiller on the rudder blade; it is still very hard to rotate the rudder.I have poured vinegar down the shaft from inside the boat, I worked the rudder back and forth, I then used a 4X4 block and a sledge hammer to try and drive the rudder out. (This is how we got the rudder out before).Anyone out there had any experience with this? Any suggestions for getting this rudder out?Did I miss anything? One of the things I will try tomorrow is to remove the top bearing Chase and carrier as that is removed from above deck.O_saltFlyer, First 47.7
  8. Hi, I'm fixing a couple of small dings on the underside of my boat - I'm looking for some opinions with which to concoct my final moves. 1) Rudder Bearing tube crack - when I was dropping the rudder and bearing a small stress crack appeared on the rear end of the rudder bearing - it appears as if this were fixed before. One whole section of it seems a little loose which suggests to me I should cut out and either replace or epoxy back in. Suggestions? Image 1 - Interior of above mentioned crack, white area is what I suspect was previous repair Image 2 - Exterior view of above mentioned crack 2) Trailing edge of keel gouge - the trailer operator took a gouge out of the trailing edge of my keel with the chains he was using to cinch up my boat stands. I ground away all of the damaged material and was wondering if this was something I should fix with epoxy/filler, fairing compound, or epoxy/filler beneath fairing compound 3) Keel has slight crack at keel to hull joint. Moisture had seeped in, so I opened this area and for the past 2 months moisture has slowly come out. It has finally stopped. I want to close this back up and am wondering the same as #2, should I use a epoxy with a structural filler, fairing compound, or both? Full disclosure: When I say "epoxy with filler" I have actually been using premixed vinylester with glass fibers and silica from Fiberlay. I do have epoxy and colloidal silica filler I can use since I'm below the waterline, but do have confidence in the above product. Thanks,
  9. Thought you guys may be interested in a steering-wheel to tiller conversion of a Pearson 35
  10. Clockwork

    Rudder Gudgeon

    The transom mounted rudder gudgeons on our J/70 keep coming loose. I've noticed some boats using a black sealant or adhesive to mount the gudgeons. Anybody know what it is or any other fix for this annoying problem?