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BradH

Sabre build USA

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I've gathered up the materials to start building a Sabre, www.sabre.org.au, and will start sawing wood when the plans arrive from Australia. The class secretary said he's sent three sets of plans to the US in the last five years but he doesn't know if any have been built. Are there any Sabre's in the US?

 

I've received great support from the class association. If anyone is considering building a singlehand dinghy the Sabre is worth a look.

 

Brad

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Brad,

 

Im pretty interested in building a dinghy. Ive been doing a lot of reading and a Sabre was on my short list. This would be my first build, I learned to sail through navy sailing and am a fairly new sailer but have been woodworking for a couple years, more details about your experience with other sabre sailers as well as the process of getting plans would be great

 

Jake

 

 

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Jake,

 

My experience with Sabre sailors is limited to emails I've exchanged with the association secretary and chief measurer, they've been very accommodating. To order the plans I emailed Mike Simpson, the association secretary, at mikesimpson@optusnet.com.au I mailed him a check, took about ten days to get there, and he mailed the plans a few days ago. I expect they'll be here the end of the week.

 

The Sabre looks like a fairly simple and inexpensive build but I have some boat building experience. I could post progress photo's here if anyone's interested.

 

If you'd like to look at some good photo's the Saber Nationals are here http://ianjeanneret.zenfolio.com/sabre2009

 

Brad

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Brad

 

I built a sabre recently and would recommend it as a good project, I had only ever done woodwork at school years ago and didn't have to much trouble. Really easy in aus as the association has templates you can just trace on to the ply and cut them out. The only tools required are a jigsaw, a hand saw, a plane and a few clamps although I got someone to machine the wood.

 

One tip though is a boat straight from the plans will be slow, some tweaking is required.

 

John

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Sabre is a good boat, but probably only for a lighter skipper <70kg, if you want something similar but a bit faster, consider the Impulse, http://www.ausimpulse.com.au/home/

 

 

In light breeze maybe although heavier people can still go well. At the last nats the top guys were mostly around 80-85kg although it was a windy series( 1 day 57knots was recorded at the nearby weather station before racing was called off with some boats washing up on nearby beaches)

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John,

 

Thanks for the heads up on the tweaking. I've read about flattening the rocker in the aft section of the hull but I think I'll just stick to the plans. I have another boat I race in a fairly large one design fleet so I don't expect to do any serious racing with the Sabre. It will be more of a tune up boat I'll sail when I don't want to round up crew.

 

SMC,

 

The Impulse looks like a nice boat. Speed is always good but it wasn't at the top of my list when I was looking for a design to build. What I wanted was light, easy to rig, easy to build, and relatively easy to handle in 20+ wind. I think the Saber is a better fit for me. Thanks for the suggestion, if I were looking for speed the Impulse and Phantom would have been on my short list.

 

Brad

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Wow, thats damn cool

Sabres too good a boat to stay just in aus

Bring on the sabre worlds :P

 

One tip though is a boat straight from the plans will be slow, some tweaking is required.

This is only true to a small extent, while in some conditions the new shape definatly has an advantage, it is not great enough to really make a difference.

In the 2009 nationals the winner had a standard shaped boat, and in this years Victorian state championships (71 boat fleet) one of the top sailors jumped in an old fibreglass boat and came seccond, ahead of vast numbers of supposedly faster boats! (including me :P)

The better sailor always wins :P

 

and relatively easy to handle in 20+ wind

Ive had my sabre out in 47 knots and nothing broke :P in 20-25 knots its great fun to sail, even in 25-30 if you know what you are doing.

 

Speed is always good

My top speed is 15.5 knots, and the fastest ive ever heard of was 17.4 :o not bad for a small dinghy....

 

Good luck mate!

 

2n1xh6e.jpg

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Good luck mate!

 

 

Thanks. It would be nice to get a Sabre fleet going here but highly unlikely.

 

Nice boat, did you build it?

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Hey guys,

 

My work mate is building a Sabre at work as a work project and then a sponsored boat.

 

Build updates are here

 

http://www.boatinghardware.com.au/customer-projects/sabre-build/

 

Been trying to update weekly but have missed last week, will put another update up this week.

 

Out of interest we found the build notes a bit ambigious at times. One thing is that it said to glue the board case in place then roll over and get the rocker measurement. We didn't push the board case down far enough and ended up with a flat spot when trying to get the rocker right. Had to grind the case out and start again with a board under the boat with bolts sticking up to give the rocker measurement points.

 

Great boat, they have got nearly 20 registered here in Western Oz in only 2 years since they were introduced.

 

Mez

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Hey guys,

 

My work mate is building a Sabre at work as a work project and then a sponsored boat.

 

Build updates are here

 

http://www.boatinghardware.com.au/customer-projects/sabre-build/

 

Been trying to update weekly but have missed last week, will put another update up this week.

 

Out of interest we found the build notes a bit ambigious at times. One thing is that it said to glue the board case in place then roll over and get the rocker measurement. We didn't push the board case down far enough and ended up with a flat spot when trying to get the rocker right. Had to grind the case out and start again with a board under the boat with bolts sticking up to give the rocker measurement points.

 

Great boat, they have got nearly 20 registered here in Western Oz in only 2 years since they were introduced.

 

Mez

 

Mez,

 

I found that site a couple weeks ago and have been checking for updates. I'm glad you're putting it on the web, they're the only build photos I've found.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the board case, I'll be looking for that. I wondered how the rocker held it's shape in that area with the slot cut out. If any other unexpected problems pop up I'd appreciate you letting me know.

 

 

Ice,

 

I was just looking at the nationals photos again and saw more photo's of your boat. Seeing all those Sabre's on plane keeps me motivated.

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Good luck mate!

 

 

Thanks. It would be nice to get a Sabre fleet going here but highly unlikely.

 

Nice boat, did you build it?

haha yeah might be abit optimistic...

nah i dident build it... bought it seccond hand

 

 

and yeah they are great on the reach for planing... the light hull helps

 

hope you get urs built and planeing soon! :P

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Hi Brad,

 

Good luck with the build. When you get up to the rigging part, you may find this guide useful:

 

https://docs.google....74g_117dqz8b2gj

 

The guys over in the Sabre forum are also keep to always help. There are people of all types in the class - that's one of the great things about the Sabre. You'll find many love the woodworking and building just as much (if not more!) than the sailing. There are guys in it who just love the large fleet racing, while others who love the simplicity of single-handed sailing without the low-laser-boom, and others who spend more time in the bar after the race than on the water :-) All are always willing to help others!

 

There is something magic about the Sabre - The fact that most other classes in Australia have shrunk while the Sabre is still attracting record fleet sizes without any advertising (or "commercial backing" like many plastic boats have these days) shows that something must be right!

 

Would be great to see another boat on the water soon.

 

Cheers,

 

Chris

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Chris,

 

Thanks for the link, with that and the build notes I shouldn't have much trouble with the rigging.

 

It would be nice to get a fleet started in the US, maybe some of that Sabre magic will make it's way here. I think that magic comes more from the people than the boat though. I race in a fleet like you've described but my crew/wife got a new job last year and can't sail as often as I'd like.

 

I hope to have the boat on the water soon but it's going to take much longer than the 40 hour build time noted on the website.

 

Brad

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Brad - not sure going the "Rebel Racer" route and building a bit of a one-off boat is all that good an idea when the US Classic moth fills a similar role in a boat with a pre-existing fleet... don't get me wrong, the sabre's a great little tub that will handle pretty much anything thrown at it, but unless you can get a bunch of others going into builds at the same time, you'll have very little to play with except laser radials (which should beat you in everything but light and shite).

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Brad - not sure going the "Rebel Racer" route and building a bit of a one-off boat is all that good an idea when the US Classic moth fills a similar role in a boat with a pre-existing fleet... don't get me wrong, the sabre's a great little tub that will handle pretty much anything thrown at it, but unless you can get a bunch of others going into builds at the same time, you'll have very little to play with except laser radials (which should beat you in everything but light and shite).

 

You're right, if I were looking for another boat to race one design the Sabre would be a poor choice. I have a boat I race in a large fleet and I'm not looking for a change in that respect. I looked at every amateur built racing dinghy I could find on the internet, including the Classic Moth, for a single hand boat I will enjoy building and sailing. The Sabre looked like the best fit for me.

 

Having the only Sabre in the US won't bother me and there's the possibility that others may want to build one when they see it. We only need three boats to be scored as a one design fleet at my club.

 

Brad

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Nice work Brad.

 

Good that you pre-bent the floor panels which is a good thing. A couple of guys here had some cracking on the panels just fwd of the back strap and not pre-bending may of had something to do with that.

 

Have put some updates up on our website recently. Coming along nicely, seat tops and foredeck should go on next week.

 

Another tip is to put the seat ris in AFTER you paint everdure/epoxy sealer on the inside of the tanks. The ribs and good at taking skin off when you have to reach in around them to paint the sealer!!!!

 

MEZ

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Nice work Brad.

 

Good that you pre-bent the floor panels which is a good thing. A couple of guys here had some cracking on the panels just fwd of the back strap and not pre-bending may of had something to do with that.

 

Have put some updates up on our website recently. Coming along nicely, seat tops and foredeck should go on next week.

 

Another tip is to put the seat ris in AFTER you paint everdure/epoxy sealer on the inside of the tanks. The ribs and good at taking skin off when you have to reach in around them to paint the sealer!!!!

 

MEZ

 

Thanks for the compliment and another good tip. I can see how epoxy coating the tanks with the stringers in could be a pain.

 

Did you have any trouble with the transition from the foredeck bevel to the side deck bevel on the gunwale? It seems that getting the two decks flush at the outside edge could be a problem with the different angles.

 

Your boat is looking good, won't be long until the construction phase is completed.

 

Brad

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Strange you say that Brad, foredeck is being fitted as we speak and it was noticed that it might be a problem. We are going to fit the foredeck first and then change the glue block against the bulkhead to make the tank top fit or/and look right.

 

Will take a pic of the finished product and post a pic.

 

Mez

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Mez,

 

I'm glad I left the blocks off the bulkhead when I glued it in. The good thing is the cap strip will cover any "adjustments" that have to be made to the gunwale.

 

I'll be fitting the foredeck beam today. It looks like fitting the deck in the forward area may be a challenge also with the opposing angles of the foredeck beam and sheer line.

 

Brad

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Nice work Brad, love the colour of the timber!!!

 

We actually adjusted the height of the mast bulkhead to make the foredeck beam straight as it runs fore/aft.

 

More pics now at

 

http://www.boatinghardware.com.au/customer-projects/sabre-build/

 

A pic or two in there for you Brad, also we used a heap of weights (zinc anodes as they are in the shop) while the glue went off and had no issues getting the curve in the foredeck.

 

Mez

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Mez, Straightening the foredeck beam will have made your ply much easier to bend into shape (2 curve rather than 3d complex curve) so Brad might be working harder. His foredeck will be much stiffer in the end though.

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Most people play we the height and width of the both bulkhead. As the depth of curvature of the centrecase bulkhead(unlike the transom) is not measured you can flatten the the deck and increase the vee down the bottom meaning it will still measure but will be more narrow at the waterline. You can also make it to mininum width and for the web bulkhead you can pretty much do what you like as only width at the top is measured.

 

If you do this though watch the overall length as boat will stretch slightly, also the spacer in the middle serves no purpose just throw it away.

 

The boats look to be coming along well.

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Mez,

I looked at your photos, the deck looks good. Thanks for one of the foredeck to sidedeck transition.

 

Scarecrow,

I'd have been cussing myself for not thinking of straightening the deck beam as Mez did if you hadn't mentioned deck stiffness. I wondered why the beam is arched, thought it had something to do with mast rake, but it does make sense that the deck being convex in both directions will make it stiffer.

 

Thanks,

Brad

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Most people play we the height and width of the both bulkhead. As the depth of curvature of the centrecase bulkhead(unlike the transom) is not measured you can flatten the the deck and increase the vee down the bottom meaning it will still measure but will be more narrow at the waterline. You can also make it to mininum width and for the web bulkhead you can pretty much do what you like as only width at the top is measured.

 

If you do this though watch the overall length as boat will stretch slightly, also the spacer in the middle serves no purpose just throw it away.

 

The boats look to be coming along well.

 

I did change the web bulkhead some, made the bulkhead fit the hull instead of trying to force the hull to fit the bulkhead. The vee is sharper but the crown is as drawn from the template. Checked the overall length and it's fine.

 

Thanks,

Brad

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Beware of leaving out any bits shown on the plan/building guide.

 

I bought an amateur built Sabre a couple of years ago and, in the course of getting it measured, was informed that the buttstraps on the bottom were missing (the bottom ply was spliced) as was the support under the for&aft mast bulkhead.

 

I fitted these items with some difficulty, especially having to assemble the support from pieces that would fit through a 100mm hatch and then glueing and clamping them together.

 

If your aim is to get a legal hull, make sure you put all the bits in!

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Mike

I meant the temporary spacer in the middle, not advocating leaving pieces out. I found the spacer made it difficult to get an accurate measurement from the transom to the centrecase bulkhead so was told to just throw it away.

 

 

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Mez,

 

Just saw your latest photos. I've been trying to figure out how to clamp the side decks without using nails or screws in the deck, looks like the screws in the fillet worked well.

 

Brad

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Boat is now varnished so will add more pics tomorrow.

 

As long as you leave the tank lids well over size it's pretty easy.

 

How have you gone sourcing a rig??

 

Not sure what other classes use that size rig there but here in Oz the mast section is the same as a 125 (two person with trapeze) just without the spreaders and botom sleeve, so you may be able to find a section from a similar boat that fits.

 

Mez

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The only way I can get a class legal mast here is ship it from Australia so I'm going to use a Dwyer DM-2 blank. It's very close to the same weight and within a few millimeters dimensionally. One of the Quantum lofts here is getting the cutting files from the Melbourne loft to make a sail for me. The rest of the hardware should be easy to locate.

 

Looking forward to seeing the photos of your varnished boat.

 

Brad

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Mez,

 

Looking good, you're on the downhill side now.

 

Are you not going to use any fiberglass cloth on the bottom? I'm planning on a layer of 2 oz. My progress has slowed some since I've started work on the interior. I can't stay bent over the side long before my knees start bothering me.

 

Sounds like your sailing season starts winding up as ours is winding down. Our last club race is the first week of next month. There's a Flying Scot regatta in Texas the second week of October and that will end my racing for the year.

 

Here's a recent photo of my Sabre.

 

Hey Brad and all,

 

Updates up now,

 

http://www.boatinghardware.com.au/customer-projects/sabre-build/

 

Sorry it's been a while but as the boat is being built in the workshop at work and we are also a CHandlery/Riggers, this time of year tends to be pretty busy!!!

 

Mez

post-14778-086880800 1284524398_thumb.jpg

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The Sabre build was abandoned for a while but with only a few months left before racing season begins I've decided to get with the program.

post-14778-021559500 1296854814_thumb.jpg

post-14778-086636500 1296854860_thumb.jpg

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Is that the boat in Oklahoma? It is beautiful!

 

You'll see it at OCBC next month. I'll be racing it when my wife can't get off work to crew on the FS.

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Sweet, can't wait to see it out! We will be racing the Santana 20 in keel boat stuff and a Bucc 18 on dinghy nights.

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Brilliant job!!! Awesome to have such a lovely looking boat as the first one in The States!!

 

Love the idea of the compass bracket!!

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Thanks for the compliments. I doubt if I'll ever race in a Sabre fleet unless I fly to Australia and charter a boat, there aren't many wooden race dinghys being built here.

 

I have a digital I could have mounted on the bulkhead but prefer the large tactical compass. I think they're easier to read and I'm too lazy to add and subtract.

post-14778-039770000 1301671565_thumb.jpg

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That thing is amazing! Can't wait to see it on the water. I will be doing RC work on Tuesdays so I should get to see it.

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You should build one Vernon. We'd only need one more to be scored as a fleet.

 

Looks really nice.

 

What are all those "lumps" of wood doing on the cockpit floor? I don't remember anything that big in mine, however that was over 20 years ago :blink: :blink:

 

Viel Spass,

 

Fish

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They're the floor battens Min. 36x18mm, Max. 40x19mm as per rule 26. If you had a class legal wood Saber it had them in it.

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They're the floor battens Min. 36x18mm, Max. 40x19mm as per rule 26. If you had a class legal wood Saber it had them in it.

 

the original boats only had 1 floor batten that did not reach the fwd. bulkhead resulting in them lifting off the skin when sailed in any waves.

 

The designers were very reluctant to allow any changes, so to convince them that there was no advantage being gained by building the battens thru the bulkhead - 2 battens were proposed (more weight & strength). The rules might still allow the original 1 batten not reaching the bulkhead.

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They're the floor battens Min. 36x18mm, Max. 40x19mm as per rule 26. If you had a class legal wood Saber it had them in it.

 

the original boats only had 1 floor batten that did not reach the fwd. bulkhead resulting in them lifting off the skin when sailed in any waves.

 

The designers were very reluctant to allow any changes, so to convince them that there was no advantage being gained by building the battens thru the bulkhead - 2 battens were proposed (more weight & strength). The rules might still allow the original 1 batten not reaching the bulkhead.

 

I stand corrected. The current rules, as I understand them, call for four floor battens that extend through the bulkhead and a keel batten that ends at the back of the centercase.

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They're the floor battens Min. 36x18mm, Max. 40x19mm as per rule 26. If you had a class legal wood Saber it had them in it.

 

the original boats only had 1 floor batten that did not reach the fwd. bulkhead resulting in them lifting off the skin when sailed in any waves.

 

The designers were very reluctant to allow any changes, so to convince them that there was no advantage being gained by building the battens thru the bulkhead - 2 battens were proposed (more weight & strength). The rules might still allow the original 1 batten not reaching the bulkhead.

 

I stand corrected. The current rules, as I understand them, call for four floor battens that extend through the bulkhead and a keel batten that ends at the back of the centercase.

You were correct. I should have written " 2 battens were proposed each side"

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Hmmm! Seem to remember sailing the State champs at Black Rock, with the location performing to its usual standards (ken big & ken steep waves). No battens, if they were there "popped"

L8r,

Fish

 

 

The designers were very reluctant to allow any changes, so to convince them that there was no advantage being gained by building the battens thru the bulkhead - 2 battens were proposed (more weight & strength). The rules might still allow the original 1 batten not reaching the bulkhead.

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Really WOW! That thing is amazing. I will say again, I can't wait to see it on the water. When do you expect to have it out.

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Really WOW! That thing is amazing. I will say again, I can't wait to see it on the water. When do you expect to have it out.

 

I still have some rigging to do, need to shape and fiberglass the centerboard plus build trailer bunks. That should be finished in plenty of time to get everything sorted out for the first race. The holdup may be the sail, which I ordered several months ago from our local Quantum rep.

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Really WOW! That thing is amazing. I will say again, I can't wait to see it on the water. When do you expect to have it out.

 

I still have some rigging to do, need to shape and fiberglass the centerboard plus build trailer bunks. That should be finished in plenty of time to get everything sorted out for the first race. The holdup may be the sail, which I ordered several months ago from our local Quantum rep.

 

What is your hull weight ?

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That's a beautiful finish. Kudos.

 

It reminds me of the finish I had on a dinghy I owned back in the mid 70s. Everything I've had since has been plastic. I really must get back into a wooden boat. (Sigh).

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Thanks Carl. It will be nice if the article generates some interest in the US.

 

I'll post a comment when I get to the computer with my photos.

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Brad,

I knew I knew you but I am glad that I have actually put a face to the boat and name now.

 

This thing looks great, can't wait to see it on the water.

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Brad,

I knew I knew you but I am glad that I have actually put a face to the boat and name now.

 

This thing looks great, can't wait to see it on the water.

 

Yes, I introduced myself and visited with you at a few OCBC regattas.

 

I'm going to have to spend some time on the water in something. We didn't get to race much last season and it definitely showed Tuesday. After we got the boat on the trailer I noticed clump of red clay on the rudder. I'm wondering if I got a big wad of the stuff on the board getting out of the harbor and it slowed us down :)

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That is a perfect excuse!

 

Yeah, as soon as you introduced yourself again I remembered who you were but I swear I have met so many new people joining that club everyone runs together.

 

Sadly I can't sail my big boat yet but I think I will have my Bucc 18 on the water sometime soon.

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Well come on down to the Spring dinghyfest at Rush Creek and race with us in the Portsmouth class... We need to more boats for a start! Abusolutley gorgeous boat Brad! You must be proud I know I would be. Bring yer Buc down Vern! See the orphans unite thread here or google Rush Creek.

Fishingmickey

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Still have some work to do but hope to get it wet tomorrow.

 

 

Beautiful.

 

I'd suggest that you put an extra layer of ply on the sides of the cockpit where your heels will go through. Doesn't have to be all the way along, just in region where you'll hike when going upwind.

 

Your heels will e seen as useful when the boat is hit by a large lull.

 

Viel Glück,

 

Fish

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Congrats on a great looking boat. I know it is too late now, but I put a layer of 200g cloth on the underside of the decks and sidetanks in the high load areas as ply normally fails on the tension (inner) side first. I put it on with a saturation epoxy and while it is still wet I bond the decks on, so I have sealed the insides of the boat and put epoxy on both sides at the same time.

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Thanks for the compliments.

 

Mickey, Can't do Rush Creek, I don't have a Portsmouth rating. I'd consider it if you'll let me use the Australian number, it's 126.

 

Tom, I did put a layer of 2 oz cloth on the tank tops so they won't get dinged up quite as bad. I'll probably wish I'd put some on the foredeck too, it's pretty flimsy.

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Still have some work to do but hope to get it wet tomorrow.

 

 

Beautiful.

 

I'd suggest that you put an extra layer of ply on the sides of the cockpit where your heels will go through. Doesn't have to be all the way along, just in region where you'll hike when going upwind.

 

Your heels will e seen as useful when the boat is hit by a large lull.

 

Viel Glück,

 

Fish

 

May be a good idea but I don't quite understand what you're saying.

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Well Bradh as far as I know we're needing another boat or two to guarantee a start. That would be (126 ) Portsmouth a super slow boat for Portsmouth here. What boat do you think your close to? Laser 91.1? Finn 89? Contender90.1 Thistle 85 or 86? Sunfish is 100? What's the length? Sail area? Weight? So far we've got a Raider Sport II 89 point something , Contender and possible a I/C or MX--ray...

FM

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Still have some work to do but hope to get it wet tomorrow.

 

 

Beautiful.

 

I'd suggest that you put an extra layer of ply on the sides of the cockpit where your heels will go through. Doesn't have to be all the way along, just in region where you'll hike when going upwind.

 

Your heels will e seen as useful when the boat is hit by a large lull.

 

Viel Glück,

 

Fish

 

May be a good idea but I don't quite understand what you're saying.

 

 

Ok picture this:

 

- you are hiking out in 15 knots of breeze, when suddenly you enter a sudden lull

 

- you scramble to get you weight in and inadvertently pull with your leg

 

- your foot connects with the side of the cockpit and cracks the ply

 

It has happened to me.

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Well Bradh as far as I know we're needing another boat or two to guarantee a start. That would be (126 ) Portsmouth a super slow boat for Portsmouth here. What boat do you think your close to? Laser 91.1? Finn 89? Contender90.1 Thistle 85 or 86? Sunfish is 100? What's the length? Sail area? Weight? So far we've got a Raider Sport II 89 point something , Contender and possible a I/C or MX--ray...

FM

 

I should have followed that with a smiley. I need some time in the boat before entering it in a regatta. I've no desire to travel 700 miles round trip and fight Dallas traffic just to get my butt spanked. I do appreciate the offer and would like to race with the orphans someday.

 

I'm about 50 pounds too heavy for the boat so I doubt if I'll ever finish well with it. It will be a practice boat and and something I can use for club racing when my crew can't get off work.

 

This is what I sent US Sailing last September. I'm still waiting on a number from them but I think it will be close to the Sunfish.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Converting to US measurements I get the following:

 

LOA 12.37'

LWL 11'

Sail Area 68.9 sq. ft.

 

I've looked at the Australian handicap ratings and compared the single hand boats we have in common with US Sailing Portsmouth ratings.

 

The Australian ratings I used are here: http://sa.yachting.org.au/site/yachting/sa/downloads/Event%20Info/0910%20YSA%20Yardsticks%20Sep09.pdf

 

Class, AUS Rating, US Rating, Difference

Finn, 113.5, 90.1, 79%

Laser, 113, 91.1, 81%

Laser 4.7, 122, 95.4, 78%

Sabre, 126.5

 

I get an average difference in the two systems of 79% for the boats listed. Using the average difference 79% of 126.5 I estimate a 99.9 Portsmouth rating for the Sabre.

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Ok picture this:

 

- you are hiking out in 15 knots of breeze, when suddenly you enter a sudden lull

 

- you scramble to get you weight in and inadvertently pull with your leg

 

- your foot connects with the side of the cockpit and cracks the ply

 

It has happened to me.

 

I get it now. I'm a lazy gray haired fat guy who won't be hiking hard, but if I do punch a hole in it I'll add a doubler.

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Regarding the weight thing, sounds like you'd fit right in with the rest of us Brad... :) There are very few new boats racing with us. Most are older, well loved, sails are servicable and the only thing crispy on them is the bag of chips in the lunch pail. Love to see you and the Sabre come race with the classless fleet.

Take care,

FM

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Finally got the sail yesterday. It doesn't have a band at the tack to go around the mast like all the photos I've seen so I'm waiting on an explanation from the sailmaker.

 

Hoping to get it wet tomorrow.

post-14778-000033200 1304979655_thumb.jpg

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Photo showing sail tack

 

Any reason a piece of string (or a spliced dyneema shackle.. I see you're other splicing work at play) through the ring and around the mast won't do?

 

Alternatively, if your bolt rope is snug enough in the track (won't pull out), cut some excess off and tuck it into the track below the feed slot.

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Photo showing sail tack

 

Any reason a piece of string (or a spliced dyneema shackle.. I see you're other splicing work at play) through the ring and around the mast won't do?

 

Alternatively, if your bolt rope is snug enough in the track (won't pull out), cut some excess off and tuck it into the track below the feed slot.

 

If I go our tomorrow my plan is to do both. I did put the bolt rope in the track below the feed slot after the photo was taken and it looked better but when I pulled the outhaul on hard I heard a stitch tear. Doing that and lashing through the cunningham block and around the mast should work but I think the band would be better.

 

Here's a photo of a sail with the band

post-14778-099646600 1304981019_thumb.jpg

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I got the boat on the water early this morning. I think I'm going to like it. There are a couple changes I'm going to make but they're minor. I found a way around the sail tack issue and while I wish they'd put the band on the sail I think it's going to work OK the way it is.

post-14778-085729300 1305041531_thumb.jpg

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The photos aren't great but here's one more.

 

Looks great.

 

From memory, it is wise not to oversheet the main when going upwind. Back when I used to sail them it was a good way to kill it.

 

Happy sailing,

 

Fish

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