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Soñadora

Sons's Baba Rebuild Thread

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Now that the weather is no longer borderline arctic (today it was almost 90) and the monsoon downpoors have abated it seems, I've finally begun the re-beautification of Soñadora. Below is a list of all the stuff I want to get done this season:

  • companionway hatch rebuild (started)
  • fwd berth hatch rebuild
  • cockpit hatch rebuild
  • seal leaks in butterfly hatch
  • new beadboard headliner throughout
  • all exterior 'decorative' teak stripped and varnished, varnished, varnished...and more varnish! I like varnish. It's like perfect tits - with a nice tan
  • deck re-caulked
  • nav lights re wired (long story)
  • topside re-painted
  • instruments located to binnacle (currently located on the bulkhead where they're always blocked by someone's ass)
  • new base for compression post
  • 2 new chainplates
  • cabin sole re-finished

Then, over the winter

 

 

  • New interior cushions
  • Bimini (measurements taken before hibernation)
  • Fix binnacle cover
  • Fix mainsail cover
  • Make cover for companionway hatch

Of coures, there's a whole bunch of other shit I've probably forgotten, but that's the gist. I'll post as much here as I can, but I'll keep most of the good stuff on my Baba forum. Less cluttered that way.

 

These are pics of my companionway hatch as it was when I started its rehab

post-4721-065238500 1306811186_thumb.jpg

post-4721-053440500 1306811196_thumb.jpg

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I should be done with the hatch by next weekend. I want to use beadboard for all the headliner.

 

I've been reading about this stuff. There's a guy on another forum who used it on his Tartan 34. It's made out of hardboard. Sounds like hardboard is at least as water resilient as plywood. Thoughts?

WhiteIceBeaded.jpg

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A good indication wold be if GP recommends it for "below grade (basement) installation. I once bought a house with an owner finished basement. Paneling over open studs and warped to all hell. When I ripped it out, it was clearly stamped "not for below grade installations". It did not like humidity.....

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Sons

 

A club member just finished doing his headliner on a traditional boat like yours...he used Melamine laminate in sheet form (no wood or particle board backing) water proof, mark proof, very tough, very flexible, and not expensive. Lots of colour selection in some very nice matte finishes.

 

He simply cut them out from patterns, and held them in place with the exiting trim and battens, or contact cement in places where he needed a better grip.

 

It looks outstanding.

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My pal got all his at Home Depot...they seemed to keep a good selection on hand.

 

If you are fussier about the colour and finish any cabinet shop should have access to a huge variety.

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Thanks gate.

 

I considered melamine, but I'm really after a beadboard look. Are you saying they have melamine beadboard? I suppose if I got kooky, I could route my own beads.

 

I'll have to check around more about this GP stuff. So far it seems pressboard is at least as resilient as luaun plywood. Besides, after I fix all the leaks, the headliner's going to stay all nice and dry, right? dry.gif

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Thanks gate.

 

I considered melamine, but I'm really after a beadboard look. Are you saying they have melamine beadboard? I suppose if I got kooky, I could route my own beads.

 

dry.gif

 

The melamine he used was VERY thin...maybe 1/64th (or less?). The teak interior trim looked great against the cream coloured melamine. I doubt there is a bead board look though.

 

But, if you are 100% sure of no leaks, ever again, it's hard to argue with that.

 

wink.gif

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Thanks gate.

 

I considered melamine, but I'm really after a beadboard look. Are you saying they have melamine beadboard? I suppose if I got kooky, I could route my own beads.

 

dry.gif

 

The melamine he used was VERY thin...maybe 1/64th (or less?). The teak interior trim looked great against the cream coloured melamine. I doubt there is a bead board look though.

 

But, if you are 100% sure of no leaks, ever again, it's hard to argue with that.

 

wink.gif

 

ha. Sure, I'll go with 100% no leaks. Well, it made it 30+ years with the original plywood, so I think I'll be ok. 30 years from now, it's possible I'll still be sailing around, but I won't be interested in any restoration. By then I'll be sailing in a custom Perry design.

 

I put in a query to GP to see what they think.

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I think pressboard is wood code for sponge...I would even be concerned with humidity. Do you plan on having the material installed near water??

 

wink.gif

 

I imagine it will get down to whether the glue is water soluble, or oil based.

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pressboard? wtf. That's not what I meant. HARDboard...

 

man I'm sloppy.

 

 

Tempered hardboard is hardboard that has been coated with a thin film of linseed oil and then baked; this gives it more water resistance, impact resistance, hardness, rigidity and tensile strength. An earlier tempering process involved immersing the board in linseed oil or tung oil until it was 5 to 6 percent saturated, and heating to 170° C (340° F).[4] Tempered hardboard is used in construction siding.

 

Now I just need to find out if this stuff is tempered hardboard....

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Sons,

I've been looking for a good source for laminate beadboard too. Now that boatbuilders are starting to use them as hull and headliners, there ought to be some way to find some. JBoats uses them (J/122, J/108, etc) and I think Schock is planning on using similar in the Harbor 30...Must be a source for them somewhere.

Crash

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Thanks gate.

 

I considered melamine, but I'm really after a beadboard look. Are you saying they have melamine beadboard? I suppose if I got kooky, I could route my own beads.

 

dry.gif

 

The melamine he used was VERY thin...maybe 1/64th (or less?). The teak interior trim looked great against the cream coloured melamine. I doubt there is a bead board look though.

 

But, if you are 100% sure of no leaks, ever again, it's hard to argue with that.

 

wink.gif

 

Are you talking about the GRP panels like they use for showers, etc ? I've not seen any melamine panels at Home Depot (nor did a google search turn up anything beside melamine panels on mdf ).

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ahh...formica. Yes. I have thought about this one too and will probably go with that if I can't find a good beadboard source. I also considered PVC sheet, but that stuff can leech nasty chemicals and will kill you if you breathe any fumes if the stuff burns.

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Sorry to send you off on a goose chase...

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Sorry to send you off on a goose chase...

 

no problem, Formica makes more sense !

 

should work great as long as there's no complex curves.

 

our boat-C&C 37R-came with panels made from fiberglass sheets, formica or the grp panels would be easier to work with.

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no worries Gate ;)

 

I'm really sold on the beadboard idea.

 

Here's what it looks like on that Tartan I mentioned earlier.

 

 

post-4721-069204800 1306856247_thumb.jpg

 

 

The headliner on the older Babas is not removeable. I will not be removing the entire headliner. Instead, I'm going to do the best I can to remove any bad sections and simply put new headliner over the old using teak battens so at least that will be removeable.

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That is nice....I see your point.

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no worries Gate ;)

 

I'm really sold on the beadboard idea.

 

Here's what it looks like on that Tartan I mentioned earlier.

 

 

post-4721-069204800 1306856247_thumb.jpg

 

 

The headliner on the older Babas is not removeable. I will not be removing the entire headliner. Instead, I'm going to do the best I can to remove any bad sections and simply put new headliner over the old using teak battens so at least that will be removeable.

 

found these-not a sheet but at least weather proof

 

http://products.construction.com/swts_content_files/29784/233863.PDF

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no worries Gate ;)

 

I'm really sold on the beadboard idea.

 

Here's what it looks like on that Tartan I mentioned earlier.

 

 

post-4721-069204800 1306856247_thumb.jpg

 

 

The headliner on the older Babas is not removeable. I will not be removing the entire headliner. Instead, I'm going to do the best I can to remove any bad sections and simply put new headliner over the old using teak battens so at least that will be removeable.

 

found these-not a sheet but at least weather proof

 

http://products.cons...9784/233863.PDF

 

 

ohhh...I like! Is that PVC?

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no worries Gate ;)

 

I'm really sold on the beadboard idea.

 

Here's what it looks like on that Tartan I mentioned earlier.

 

 

post-4721-069204800 1306856247_thumb.jpg

 

 

The headliner on the older Babas is not removeable. I will not be removing the entire headliner. Instead, I'm going to do the best I can to remove any bad sections and simply put new headliner over the old using teak battens so at least that will be removeable.

 

found these-not a sheet but at least weather proof

 

http://products.cons...9784/233863.PDF

 

 

ohhh...I like! Is that PVC?

 

plastic of some sort judging from their name, even in your part of the world !

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plastic of some sort judging from their name, even in your part of the world !

 

hey, I'm not from around here...

E-mail sent to them.

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plastic of some sort judging from their name, even in your part of the world !

 

hey, I'm not from around here...

E-mail sent to them.

 

ok, ok, just stuck there for now ... :P

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There are several plastic beadboard mfrs out there if I recall from my bathroom renovation several years back. I used one that was about 3/16-1/8" thick and came in 6-8" wide "planks". I think I got it at Home Depot.

 

 

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Ooooo...that stuff looks nice maxtrim (but not for my boat..for the house). I even sent a copy of the PDF off to my wife..that was probably a mistake. :unsure:

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It looks like it will probably bend ok on it's length...but it would seem quite structural 90 degrees to the long side.

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Ooooo...that stuff looks nice maxtrim (but not for my boat..for the house). I even sent a copy of the PDF off to my wife..that was probably a mistake. :unsure:

 

sorry..... or your welcome-up to you !

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Bah sometimes I wish my cabin top was less curvey... It almost forces me to exclusively use fabrics for a headliner. The melamine/formica looks interesting, i'll have to go play with some at the hardware store. The vinyl I looked at was very flexible also. Just not sure these materials can make the complex multiple bends I've got.. unless I'm thinking about it all wrong.

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memo

 

there aren't too many bends on Soñadora's headliner...just a nice gentle curve. However, there are all sorts of jogs and fittings and crap that I'll need to cut around. Mater Huang was very clever with how he assembled our boat, thwarting any obvious attempt to remove something.

 

I'm all "hmmm, I should be able to get at those bolts that hold the traveller arch"

but Master Huang is all "ahhhh, but your eyes decieve you grasshoper...that's no ordinary teak batten you see."

 

Then, "I can just remove these screws here and the thing should come off."

"BUT, grasshopper, you do not understand the way of the Epoxy Dragon!"

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ok, so the plastic stuff comes in tongue and groove 'boards'. You can get individual boards or panels that are 5 or 6 wide. At first it didn't sound so nice, but actually this may make it easier. They're sending samples to Grand Portage Yachts. ;)

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The pvc beadboard is essentially the same stuff used to make real estate signs and the like. it is VERY thin, and doesn't like curving in two directions. not even a little. the beads will kink and compress, leaving an unsightly finish.

If it was me, I'd laminate this stuff...

 

http://reviews.homed...ews/reviews.htm

 

to 1/4" mahogany doorskin with clear epoxy, then relief the backside of the doorskin with 1/16" deep kerfs on 3"-6" centers to allow it to fit the contours and compound shapes of your overhead. Laminate the backside and the beadboard face (if desired) with clear epoxy to seal it.

Now you have a waterproof, mould proof, tightfitting beadboard that will also add some sound insulation.

 

I've used it in the past, and it looks and feels like beadboard, and installs better on wavy walls.

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The plastic tongue-and-groove that I'm getting a sample of is 1/2" thick. It's not PVC.

 

This could be the ticket. Otherwise, based on the pic above of the Tartan, I'm inclined to think the hardboard stuff will work. My headliner is not one continuous section. It's broken up by beams every 2' or so so I'll be able to do this in sections. The hardest part will be where the bulkhead curves into the V-berth.

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I've always liked tongue and groove v join as a headliner. Just looks the goods I reckon but if not that I'd be staying with battened melamine/formica whatever . Raven has that and I've always liked it. PLain and simple yet it looks the part and is easily removed if access is required. Somehow , non V Groove board never quite does it for me.

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Ish, This is what I was thinking of using.

 

http://epiplastics.thomasnet.com/item/wall-ceiling-panels-trims/1-2-tongue-groove-hollow-panels/item-1015?

 

I didn't think it was PVC, but after digging a little deeper, that seems to be the case.

 

 

If I do all the rehab I plan on doing, there shouldn't be any standing water in the headliner. And unlike the original headliner (which is going to stay in place) I'm going to make the beadboard removeable.

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Ish, This is what I was thinking of using.

 

http://epiplastics.t...anels/item-1015?

 

I didn't think it was PVC, but after digging a little deeper, that seems to be the case.

 

 

If I do all the rehab I plan on doing, there shouldn't be any standing water in the headliner. And unlike the original headliner (which is going to stay in place) I'm going to make the beadboard removeable.

From the link:

"P1300 12-inch Flat Panels are extruded from 100% virgin, exterior-grade PVC. "

I thought you wanted beadboard? Those are flat panels.

 

 

 

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Ish, This is what I was thinking of using.

 

http://epiplastics.t...anels/item-1015?

 

I didn't think it was PVC, but after digging a little deeper, that seems to be the case.

 

 

If I do all the rehab I plan on doing, there shouldn't be any standing water in the headliner. And unlike the original headliner (which is going to stay in place) I'm going to make the beadboard removeable.

From the link:

"P1300 12-inch Flat Panels are extruded from 100% virgin, exterior-grade PVC. "

I thought you wanted beadboard? Those are flat panels.

 

 

 

 

they're tongue and groove with a small reveal between the panels.

 

In any case, I've decided to try the hardboard stuff. If it doesn't work out, I can always switch it.

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Doooooood...the photo from that Tartan looks good! That'll look good on your boat. Hell, I'm considering it now!

 

Much of my interior is that faux wood-grain laminate. It's a photo of wood-grain, basically. it's sun-faded and looks like ass. The white bead board would brighten up the cabin considerably, while still leaving plenty of wood trim and cabinetry for a warm feel.

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I think it will look pretty nice :)

 

On another note, just got a quote from a plaque maker.

 

we have two holes on the cabin bulkhead where instruments used to reside. I want to cover those holes up and my wife suggested a bronze plaque.

 

I think this looks great, but I'm not sure if it's weird from a spanish language point of view. I was thinking it should look more like:

 

Soy

la Soñadora

In the song by Enya, she actually sings it sort of the way it is on the plaque. Thoughts?

 

post-4721-054867000 1306941970_thumb.jpg

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I have a Cascade 42 that I built and I used formica for the headliner, worked great, looks good, easy to clean, been in place for over 25 years. For Nepenthe I used strips of mahogany attached to the plywood under the headliner with a double rabbet so that the formica is held about 1/4 inch clear giving a sace for deck fasteners, wire and etc. The formica is held in place by mahogany strips (5/15" x 1-1/4") over the double rabbet strips making it easy to remove and replace. But you need to seal the back of the formica and for longer spans between supports (over a foot or so) you also need to put stiffeners on the back. First try I didn't do either and the formica warped from just the humdity on the back side. Looked terrible. So I re-did the panels, varished the back and added stiffeners and since have had no problems.

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wow...3 years and ONE post. Welcome newb ;)

 

Good idea with the rabbets. I was planning on epoxying the back of the hardboard. Rabbets would give some roome to breathe and dry out if, you know, someone spilled a drink or something since there won't be any leaks at all once I'm done.

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Well, I only sign on at lunch here at work and like my Dad used to say "If you don't have anything important to say, keep your mouth shut". Mom did most of the talking.

 

I mostly learn from all the great experince all you guys have. We take the boat form Portland up the coast to the West Coast of Vancouver island every year but we don't ahve anything like the experince of most.

 

 

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"If you don't have anything important to say, keep your mouth shut".

 

d00d, this place would have been shut down years ago, if that logic had been followed. :P

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I think it will look pretty nice :)

 

On another note, just got a quote from a plaque maker.

 

we have two holes on the cabin bulkhead where instruments used to reside. I want to cover those holes up and my wife suggested a bronze plaque.

 

I think this looks great, but I'm not sure if it's weird from a spanish language point of view. I was thinking it should look more like:

 

Soy

la Soñadora

In the song by Enya, she actually sings it sort of the way it is on the plaque. Thoughts?

 

post-4721-054867000 1306941970_thumb.jpg

 

Sons, yours looks like a label for Chinese bean sauce. I say that in the nicest way possible, you know?

 

 

 

 

 

And plaque is stuff on teeth, should not be on a boat either.

 

 

 

 

 

Unless it's in a museum or otherwise famous.

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I guess that means I need to remove the plaque with my hull number on it.

And the plaque that warns me about dumping plastic

 

:P

 

I'm not crazy about the border. I was trying to reflect on the scrollwork on the bow/stern. I may be able to provide custom graphics. In any case, these things are stupid expensive and most likely outside the budget.

This plaque is just one idea. I need to come up with something to cover the two 5" holes in the bulkhead. I'm definitely not going to replace any of the teak (which would be ideal) since I'm certain Master Huang has all sorts of booby traps set for someone trying to do something that crazy.

 

Another option is to simply route out a nice piece of teak. Will definitely be a lot cheaper.

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I guess that means I need to remove the plaque with my hull number on it.

And the plaque that warns me about dumping plastic

 

:P

 

I'm not crazy about the border. I was trying to reflect on the scrollwork on the bow/stern. I may be able to provide custom graphics. In any case, these things are stupid expensive and most likely outside the budget.

This plaque is just one idea. I need to come up with something to cover the two 5" holes in the bulkhead. I'm definitely not going to replace any of the teak (which would be ideal) since I'm certain Master Huang has all sorts of booby traps set for someone trying to do something that crazy.

 

Another option is to simply route out a nice piece of teak. Will definitely be a lot cheaper.

 

Put an opening port there. Boats can always use better ventilation... That's my plan when I get to the "re-do the instruments" part of my refit (when I can afford it).

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Put an opening port there. Boats can always use better ventilation... That's my plan when I get to the "re-do the instruments" part of my refit (when I can afford it).

 

Not a bad idea.

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I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.

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I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.

 

I know you offered Sons, but could you? Need ideas for the immense one-piece cluster sized hole that's gonna be left when I install the teeny st-40 Bidata in my cockpit

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I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.

 

I know you offered Sons, but could you? Need ideas for the immense one-piece cluster sized hole that's gonna be left when I install the teeny st-40 Bidata in my cockpit

 

No problem. I am at work till 1930 west coast time. Scan them after I get the kids to bed.

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I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.

 

I know you offered Sons, but could you? Need ideas for the immense one-piece cluster sized hole that's gonna be left when I install the teeny st-40 Bidata in my cockpit

 

No problem. I am at work till 1930 west coast time. Scan them after I get the kids to bed.

 

Cool! No worries, no rush :) Thanks!

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I cut a large hole in a perfectly clean bulkhead for this...it was worth it.

 

post-703-012913900 1307123337_thumb.jpg

 

I love that you thought to put it in vertically so you can pass the bevvies without spilling!

 

I've been thinking of doing something similar - current hole is an oval 12" wide, 5" high, so that's the size of the smallest rectangular hole I can make.. Was thinking of putting in an opening port instead and mounting the ST40 on the other side bulkhead (where the compass is currently), or above it/below it.. But that's unfortunately the perfect height for the instrument. I have also thought of putting in an opaque port, and mounting the ST40 within it.. Ventilation when I need it, and closed when sailing. The slight recess of what I've looked at so far would help protect the display to boot.

 

But I'd love other ideas..

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I cut a large hole in a perfectly clean bulkhead for this...it was worth it.

 

post-703-012913900 1307123337_thumb.jpg

 

 

'cuz there's no way in hell you're going to reach the other 3 inches to hand it out of the companionway :P

 

actually, I like vertical mount idea. I was actually considering a square hole with a small hatch rather than a port. So not only passing beer, but passing food too.

 

Keep in mind, that is a prime lounging spot.

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I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.

 

I know you offered Sons, but could you? Need ideas for the immense one-piece cluster sized hole that's gonna be left when I install the teeny st-40 Bidata in my cockpit

 

Did a little looking around on google and found the article! I'll scan a picture of the stained glass port if anyone is interested.

 

LINKY!

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I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.

 

I know you offered Sons, but could you? Need ideas for the immense one-piece cluster sized hole that's gonna be left when I install the teeny st-40 Bidata in my cockpit

 

Did a little looking around on google and found the article! I'll scan a picture of the stained glass port if anyone is interested.

 

LINKY!

 

sure! I like that chalkboard idea.

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The PO's left me this hole:

 

hole_in_bulkhead.jpg

 

I can't figure out for the life of me why it was SOOOOO big?

 

They used double sided tape to 'stick' a piece of HDPE over the hole...

 

We glassed over it:

 

patch-1.jpg

 

patch_view_from_the_top.jpg

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The PO's left me this hole:

 

hole_in_bulkhead.jpg

 

I can't figure out for the life of me why it was SOOOOO big?

 

They used double sided tape to 'stick' a piece of HDPE over the hole...

 

We glassed over it:

 

 

 

 

Wow.. I think they were trying to make this fit through there..

 

MIGAYbottle2_castellanos.jpg

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I read in Good Old Boat magazine about those pesky instrument holes. One boat put a round stained glass port in one hole. Might look good on your boat. Another article on GOB, the guy changed out his old instruments for slender newer instruments and put a chalk board type thing on the inside along with a pencil holder. All trimmed up and looking good. If you want I could scan the article and post.

 

I know you offered Sons, but could you? Need ideas for the immense one-piece cluster sized hole that's gonna be left when I install the teeny st-40 Bidata in my cockpit

 

Did a little looking around on google and found the article! I'll scan a picture of the stained glass port if anyone is interested.

 

LINKY!

 

sure! I like that chalkboard idea.

 

Sorry it took so long for this. PDF'd the whole article from GOB. Cannot put multiple files on one reply.

page1.pdf

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scratch the port idea. You'd think I know enough about my boat to remember I've already got an opening port there.

 

Probably just make a nice teak cover though the food pass-thru isn't out of the question.

 

Here's some updates

 

First - have to build a workbench!

post-4721-054768800 1307337726_thumb.jpg

 

See the forest back behind the table? Yesterday I heard something rustling in there. A 4' snake of some kind.

post-4721-034228600 1307337732_thumb.jpg

 

Attempting to get rid of the old plywood. Finally just bought a grinder with a sanding wheel. That took care of it. What a mess!

post-4721-054809500 1307337742_thumb.jpg

 

The beadboard in place

post-4721-065981900 1307337751_thumb.jpg

 

Looks pretty good I think

post-4721-009976100 1307337760_thumb.jpg

 

Still a lot to do on the outside

post-4721-046243600 1307337767_thumb.jpg

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That's a good start, Sons. I'd post a picture of the workbench I have at the boat, but it's kind of scary. I built an 8' bench out of 2x4s, used it to build a temporary shed over the boat from 2x4s... including the ones in the bench (went on last, naturally.) Still needed a bench, so I put a couple 2x4 sawhorses about 4' apart, nailed a couple scrap 2x4s across them, and slapped a dozen random pieces of wood in between the two fixed pieces. Looks like crap but it works pretty well.

 

No pretty completed projects to show yet - I finally filled the osmotic blisters today, but I'll wait to show off pictures until I've sanded them smooth. Six layers of glass cloth for one, eight for the other.

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I cut a large hole in a perfectly clean bulkhead for this...it was worth it.

 

post-703-012913900 1307123337_thumb.jpg

 

I love that you thought to put it in vertically so you can pass the bevvies without spilling!

 

I've been thinking of doing something similar - current hole is an oval 12" wide, 5" high, so that's the size of the smallest rectangular hole I can make.. Was thinking of putting in an opening port instead and mounting the ST40 on the other side bulkhead (where the compass is currently), or above it/below it.. But that's unfortunately the perfect height for the instrument. I have also thought of putting in an opaque port, and mounting the ST40 within it.. Ventilation when I need it, and closed when sailing. The slight recess of what I've looked at so far would help protect the display to boot.

 

But I'd love other ideas..

You could mount the instrument on a swing-away arm so you can see it through the port/hole...

 

I cut a large hole in a perfectly clean bulkhead for this...it was worth it.

 

post-703-012913900 1307123337_thumb.jpg

 

 

'cuz there's no way in hell you're going to reach the other 3 inches to hand it out of the companionway :P

 

actually, I like vertical mount idea. I was actually considering a square hole with a small hatch rather than a port. So not only passing beer, but passing food too.

 

Keep in mind, that is a prime lounging spot.

 

You can't feel the port at all when lounging, it's almost flat. And we have cushions. We do have some trappings of civilization up here y'know.

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You can't feel the port at all when lounging, it's almost flat. And we have cushions. We do have some trappings of civilization up here y'know.

 

Well, you'd think after owning the boat for 10 years I'd realized I already have a port there. The mind is the first thing to go I guess. :rolleyes:

 

So most likely, I'll just put a piece of teak over the holes.

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That beadboard looks nice Son's. What did you coat it with and what did you fasten it to the hatch with?

 

thanks Jose

 

I used 3 coats of BilgeKoat white enamel. Seems to me it's the same stuff that Rustoleum is made from (Rustoleum is 1/2 the price) so I'll probably use that for the rest of the beadboard. Right now they are tacked in place with a couple brass nails. Later I'll put some teak battens around the perimeter of each piece and screw those down with brass screws. I want these to be removeable.

 

No adhesives other than lifecaulk. I coated the underside of the teak with it and pressed it up into the seams then slid the plywood into the grooves on each side. It was a very tight fit and I ended up splitting the teak on one side of the hatch. It's not a major split and I've repaired it with some epoxy filler.

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Sons - a friend recommended Rustoleum on the inside of my boat too. I used something similar (oil based white gloss enamel) from the local Lowe's and it looks great. Screw all that money for the "Interlux/US Paints" marine name. there are pics over in HB's new boat thread (recent posts) of the before & after of the area's I've managed to get to so far.

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Son's, to further that..the local guy in Lowe's (a former sorta out of work marina boat yard guy) also recommended it. Alykid (sp?) based stuff about $25/gallon, with a "Killz" type primer applied prior to in the dirty areas..probably not needed on the new stuff...I did this in the bilge/engine room. The seat backs just got a sand/acetone wipe & the oil based gloss.

 

try the link below for an example. I've scrubbed this since (the bilge is the first to collect "stuff" and it is holding up just fine.) Linky to HB's thread

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I used White Rustoleum under the settees and seatbacks on SevenSundays. Also on the inside of some of the lockers. It has worked great so far, and looks good too. Makes the insides of the lockers brighter too...

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Thanks Womby

 

I will be filling in the seams tomorrow and re-assembling the hatch. Hopefully have all that done by tomorrow.

 

I have a LOT of seam-filling work ahead. Anyone know where I can buy a case of life caulk cheap :D. I will be picking up a Fein Multimaster next week. This tool looks like the shiznit!

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Thanks Womby

 

I will be filling in the seams tomorrow and re-assembling the hatch. Hopefully have all that done by tomorrow.

 

I have a LOT of seam-filling work ahead. Anyone know where I can buy a case of life caulk cheap :D. I will be picking up a Fein Multimaster next week. This tool looks like the shiznit!

 

Looks awesome!

 

I have the dremel version, and it is hands down the most versatile power tool I've got. Done everything from finishing-sanding in tight corners, contouring, cutting out tabbing (helpful hint - the grout attachment cuts through fiberglass better than anything else I've tried), trimming, removing throughulls bonded with 5200 ("like butter" is an understatement) using the scraper attachment between the throughull and the hull, etc.. You'll love it.

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Hey Son's I actually have a tube of lifecaulk I might not be able to use. Defender shipped it to me and the tip was broken off, pulled slightly away where it attaches to the main tube. So no tip, just a hole in the end of the tube. They sent me another one for free, but i still have the broken one sealed in plastic wrap.

 

If I don't use more than a whole tube rebedding all of my deck hardware you can have the broken tube. Not sure how it will work but for seems you might be using your hands more anyway.

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Poda...which dremel tool? The Fein is anywhere from 3 to 5 boat dollars. If the dremel is cheaper, I could use those boat dollars for something else.

 

memo...I'll pm you. I can always use more polysulfide to get all over my hands, pants, shoes, eyeglasses, kid's shirt, bike, cat, dishes, you get the picture.

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Poda...which dremel tool? The Fein is anywhere from 3 to 5 boat dollars. If the dremel is cheaper, I could use those boat dollars for something else.

 

memo...I'll pm you. I can always use more polysulfide to get all over my hands, pants, shoes, eyeglasses, kid's shirt, bike, cat, dishes, you get the picture.

 

If you want a throw away version (once covered in polysulfide) try this one Cheap tool

 

Gate will be along shortly to tell you to HTFU and buy a quality tool once and keep it forever. :D A lot to be said for that approach..

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I've enjoyed the rockwell version. Only home projects so far, but I'm sure it will find it's way to the boat eventually. You can get quite a few blades and such and outfit yourself pretty nicely for about $200 if you pick up one of the kits off of Amazon.

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I've got the Multi-Max.. roughly a boat buck.. Fein and Dremel attachments are interchangeable, by the way..

 

I did have some issues with fine fiberglass dust gumming it up a bit, but a few well placed knocks and it started right back up. It was mostly my fault for not properly ventilating the boat, and that stuff gets eeeeeeverywhere.. Since I've stopped cutting fiberglass, it's behaved flawlessly.

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My multi-tool is Performax brand. Got it on sale after thanksgiving I think for like 30 bucks. Came with a big box of accessories and whatever, haven't killed it yet.

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Fein...absolutely nothing close...but others may be acceptable depending on expectations.

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