• Announcements

    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.
    • B.J. Porter

      Moderation Team Change   06/16/2017

      After fifteen years of volunteer moderation at SA, I will no longer be part of the moderation team. The decision to step aside is mine, and has been some time in the works but we did not wish to announce it in advance for a number of reasons. It's been fun, but I need my time back for other purposes now. The Underdawg admin account will not be monitored until further notice, as I will be relinquishing control of it along with my administrative privileges. Zapata will continue on as a moderator, and any concerns or issues can be directed to that account or to the Editor until further notice. Anyone interested in helping moderate the forums should reach out to Scot by sending a PM to the Editor account. Please note that I am not leaving the community, I am merely stepping aside from Admin responsibilities and privileges on the site.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

tanzer1645

Nonskid options for older Melges 24

17 posts in this topic

We have an older Melges 24 with old, smooth, battered nonskid surfaces. As smooth as the nonskid has become, we actually do not have too much of a problem with sliding around but want to restore the look of the decks, and maybe get some more grip while we are at it.

 

I've been researching the various options, but hoping for some "this is what I did" type recommendations.

 

Some details:

 

  • Would like the cockpit sole to be more agressive than the decks, but don't want anything that tears up foulies or bare feet too much
  • Want something we can apply right over old nonskid (after rough sanding to smooth things out)
  • Have read a lot of good about KiwiGrip, but not sure the marbled look is really what we are going for (also looks a bit too aggressive)
  • Not entirely sure what the current paint is, but assume it is just the factory nonskid
  • Have looked at the adhesive nonskid options, but prefer something more permanent

 

Any suggestions? Most of the threads I've found seem to be centered on bigger boats with more aggressive nonskid requirements.

 

-djn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We have an older Melges 24 with old, smooth, battered nonskid surfaces. As smooth as the nonskid has become, we actually do not have too much of a problem with sliding around but want to restore the look of the decks, and maybe get some more grip while we are at it.

 

I've been researching the various options, but hoping for some "this is what I did" type recommendations.

 

Some details:

 

  • Would like the cockpit sole to be more agressive than the decks, but don't want anything that tears up foulies or bare feet too much
  • Want something we can apply right over old nonskid (after rough sanding to smooth things out)
  • Have read a lot of good about KiwiGrip, but not sure the marbled look is really what we are going for (also looks a bit too aggressive)
  • Not entirely sure what the current paint is, but assume it is just the factory nonskid
  • Have looked at the adhesive nonskid options, but prefer something more permanent

 

Any suggestions? Most of the threads I've found seem to be centered on bigger boats with more aggressive nonskid requirements.

 

-djn

 

As far as your cockpit sole requirements (e.g. nonskid that doesn't tear up bare feet and foulies ), you should try Hydroturf. It is a soft non-skid that comes in sheets. If you do a search you'll see a lot of discussion about it and everyone who has ever used has been very happy. you want to get the molded diamond pattern with the 3M peel and stick backing. This stuff is unbelievable. I stumbled upon it a few years ago looking for non-skid for my finn with the same requirements as you. It doesn't absorb water, doesn't weigh much, is easy to apply, inexpensive, great grip yet soft and cushy on bare feet.

 

I've ended up putting it on a lot of different boats (including fishing boats) and love the product. Just google hydroturf and get more info from them. they are very nice and helpful folks. If you have any questions, feel free to pm me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could see using HydroTurf in the cockpit sole; helped someone install this recently and it looked pretty good except it was hard to get good clean cut shapes. Are you guys cutting it yourself?

 

But would still want to paint the rest of the deck nonskid areas (half for more grip, half just to make the boat look better). Would love to know what others have done here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could see using HydroTurf in the cockpit sole; helped someone install this recently and it looked pretty good except it was hard to get good clean cut shapes. Are you guys cutting it yourself?

 

But would still want to paint the rest of the deck nonskid areas (half for more grip, half just to make the boat look better). Would love to know what others have done here.

 

Yes, I've always cut it myself and have had no problems as it cuts pretty easily. I use a sharp pair of big scissors but some people like a razor knife. Sometimes it can help to use a pattern cut out of thick paper or carboard ( I use the box that it comes in ), then mark it on the Hydroturf then cut it out. Also when you're putting it in place you want to press it in the middle then work your way out but don't push the material out, just down. It will stretch so you want to be careful but it's really easy. Believe me, if I can do it, anyone can.

 

As to your other question, I don't know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I cut my own. Pretty simple. Some places I use scissors, other places razor knife. I like the stuff so much I put some the back seat of my car where my kids feet hit the backs of the front seats. I've used it as well on companionway steps, small triangle at the bow/headstay where the bowmans feet go.

 

As for the deck maybe Kiwi Grip or something similar or even something low cost like Interlux Interdeck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you follow the link below you can read an article of how I created a non-skid on my Pearson Flyer using Awlgrip paint and 406 silica. This technique allows you to create a non-skid surface customized for your boat and use.

 

 

 

http://www.epoxyworks.com/20/index20.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As aggressive as the Kiwigrip appears, it's not bad. I had some reservations about it after I finished up my Viper 830. It's not a hard paint, so it has a little give. I just finished my first distance race (150 NM) after applying the Kiwigrip and I'm very pleased with the result. It didn't tear up any shorts or knees. I have Hydroturf on the cockpit sole and Kiwigrip everywhere else. Great combination.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Call Dan K, Seattle's Quantum loft, has an excellent non-skid that is made just for this purpose. All pieces are pre-cut, just need to apply it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had good results with Awlgrip and Awlgrip Griptex (coarse).

Shake it liberally (not a political statement) into a wet coat of paint.

When dry, vacuum off what didn't stick.

Overcoat with another thin (MEK) coat of paint.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking for the same info for paint on/gelcoat non-skid for the top decks. Already have hydroturf in the cockpit...excellent stuff!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Call Dan K, Seattle's Quantum loft, has an excellent non-skid that is made just for this purpose. All pieces are pre-cut, just need to apply it.

 

Dan has two foam cut outs. they look great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 on Hydroturf. Have been using it on my boat for the last 4 seasons. www.hydroturf.com. It would be great for a Melges

Looking at their website the pieces are 40" x 62" for $99 with PSA.

 

How many such pieces are required for the cockpit of a Melges 24? The least expensive pre-cut kit I've seen is $599 (Soft Deck) so even with three pieces that's 1/2.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check out Durabak. www.durabakcompany.com/marine

 

It is a single part polyurethane "paint" kind of like truck bed liner. Prep is easy, just clean/sand the surface (to promote adhesion) then roll on two coats. You can adjust the texture with rolling technique and temperature. Touch up and over-coating are super easy too.

 

I used it on my J/24 decks with good results a few years ago. The texture was a little rough for some crew but I liked it. If I had it to do over again I would put in a bit less texture to silence the haters.

 

I hear good things about KiwiGrip too but have not personally tried it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the Raptor product for non-skid and cut it with an angled foam board cutter which produced

a clean beveled edge. Cuts better from the backing paper side.

JT

 

IMG_1388.JPG

57444-1500-1-3ww-l.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cyclone, thanks for that suggestion!

 

Goo Gone worked a lot better than Acetone to remove the old adhesive, but I wiped the decks with acetone for cleaning. Bought three sheets of sticky back Hydroturf for a Melges 24. I used sheets of paper from a flip chart to make patterns, and a steel yardstick to connect the dots. I used a serrated tracing wheel to transfer the patterns to the back of the material, then used the Logan cutter to bevel the edges. The stuff cuts easily. It was probably 6-8 hours in total for patterning, cutting and placement. If I did it again it would probably take 4.

 

FYI: if you don't step on the material, you can pull it off again and re-place it. Once you walk on it, it's difficult or impossible.

 

i-j7n8vRN-L.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Use Awlgrip paint, add a mix of cabosil and microspheres, more cabosil for a harder finish. Consistency of heavy cream to sour cream, thicker gets a more agressive non skid. Roll on with a contact cement roller.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites