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Tokyo Trash Baby

Leech 6.5

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Dan and myself are working on the sail plan at the moment. The P is 7844mm and will remain so but the area in the mainsail and Spin is where we are looking at the moment. Currently we are looking at about .829 for SMS. I think the extra sail will be a huge benefit in the light but still controllable in the heavy. We also want to keep a class but still leave a little room for experiment. What we are trying to achieve is a basic class rule with a little room to move.

 

 

More photos jacko.... :P

Rudder stock will be laminated tonight and cockpit glued in Thursday night. Hopefully Friday night deck. That'll be 4 weeks work.

 

 

CG products have some nice carbon tapes, would be handy for that.

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I love seeing these pix of this machine coming together. Congrats on your progress so far. its looking really nice.

 

-jim lee

 

 

 

I like the creative clamping system putting the lid on the hull

:P

 

 

Looks like it will be a really fun boat when she's done

 

FB- Doug

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I love seeing these pix of this machine coming together. Congrats on your progress so far. its looking really nice.

 

-jim lee

 

 

 

I like the creative clamping system putting the lid on the hull

:P

 

 

Looks like it will be a really fun boat when she's done

 

FB- Doug

 

 

that clamping system may add a bit more rocker and it will be carved in stone once the epoxy kicks.

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I love seeing these pix of this machine coming together. Congrats on your progress so far. its looking really nice.

 

-jim lee

 

 

 

I like the creative clamping system putting the lid on the hull

:P

 

 

Looks like it will be a really fun boat when she's done

 

FB- Doug

 

 

that clamping system may add a bit more rocker and it will be carved in stone once the epoxy kicks.

 

I'm no expert but I cant see those 'sticks' changing the rocker on a cured carbon hull.

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I love seeing these pix of this machine coming together. Congrats on your progress so far. its looking really nice.

 

-jim lee

 

 

 

I like the creative clamping system putting the lid on the hull

:P

 

 

Looks like it will be a really fun boat when she's done

 

FB- Doug

 

 

that clamping system may add a bit more rocker and it will be carved in stone once the epoxy kicks.

 

I'm no expert but I cant see those 'sticks' changing the rocker on a cured carbon hull.

 

 

the gunwales move out and the ends come up with relative ease on a hull shell, also twist pretty easily, infact dimensional integrity is very rare in boats, not that it seems to make much difference.

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I agree that an empty hull has little torsional resistence, but there is a fair bit of structure in this before the lid goes on. The bulkheads are going to stop the gunnels flaring.

 

My only criticism is that they are sticking this bastard together bloody quick. These guys must be working 35 hr days. It's embarrasing the rest of us home builders that take years to get it done.

 

Cheers

Mojo

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if planned right and you know what you're doing (ie. done it before) it should be fairly quick...it helps to have a bit of labour to throw are it.

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I agree that an empty hull has little torsional resistence, but there is a fair bit of structure in this before the lid goes on. The bulkheads are going to stop the gunnels flaring.

 

My only criticism is that they are sticking this bastard together bloody quick. These guys must be working 35 hr days. It's embarrasing the rest of us home builders that take years to get it done.

 

Cheers

Mojo

 

 

All the parts Being computer cut is the real time saver. reduces all the trial fitting etc. More like a kit boat style of building. its great

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Excuse the crappy photo off my phone - I can't see this bending anytime soon.

 

The boat has a longitudinal girder, 4 full width carbon frames, 2 heavy carbon ringframes and centerboard structure. My biggest concern is that there is too much structure and thus heavier than it needs to be.

 

Most of the internal grid is tacked in on my boat. I have the centerboard and chainplate bulkheads still to fit.

 

There is a render on one of the earlier page showing the internal structure.

 

Rob

post-35131-053755700 1330040684_thumb.jpg

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Excuse the crappy photo off my phone - I can't see this bending anytime soon.

 

The boat has a longitudinal girder, 4 full width carbon frames, 2 heavy carbon ringframes and centerboard structure. My biggest concern is that there is too much structure and thus heavier than it needs to be.

 

Most of the internal grid is tacked in on my boat. I have the centerboard and chainplate bulkheads still to fit.

 

There is a render on one of the earlier page showing the internal structure.

 

Rob

 

 

yes you are correct kiwi you prodably wouldnt see this bending when its holding up a garage roof

you would have to measure it.

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Hows the boat coming along mate?

We're nearly finished fairing. Works been in the way. Hopefully in the water 1st weekend of April.

Excuse the crappy photo off my phone - I can't see this bending anytime soon.

 

The boat has a longitudinal girder, 4 full width carbon frames, 2 heavy carbon ringframes and centerboard structure. My biggest concern is that there is too much structure and thus heavier than it needs to be.

 

Most of the internal grid is tacked in on my boat. I have the centerboard and chainplate bulkheads still to fit.

 

There is a render on one of the earlier page showing the internal structure.

 

Rob

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they let sporties into a few events but if more of us started turnung up they would have to change there ideas, maybee we form our own association, and enter the events that way,

Or we could form ANZSBA and aim for SMS to take over the world.

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Progress is a bit slower these days - work gets in the way sometimes. All the bits you can see are glued in but are yet to have the carbon tape added.

 

The centreboard box is complete now and installed. It has a little extra carbon to help with the groundings that inevitably occur in Dunedin Harbour sailing. As well as using string lines and a level to make sure each part lined up properly I also test fit the next couple of parts to make sure they will fit too. In this case the cockpit sole is shown. The box is plywood with a solid post fore and aft, carbon reinforcements plus carbon plate to take the fin hold-down bolt. The box pokes through the hull and at the top through a ply plate (shown) let into the carbon foam sole.

 

A measure from the back of the transom to the front of the chainplate bulkhead disagreed with the plans - by 2mm - awesome. I think the cnc cut stuff is going to make amateur boat building so much more accessible and faster too.

 

The chainplates vacuum bagging is done but I have not yet trimmed the fitting as you can see. I sense a spurt coming on in the building - time to get the crew rounded up and put in all the carbon tapes that hold all of this together. Next summer maybe to get finished.

post-35131-098997800 1331845553_thumb.jpg

post-35131-016424100 1331845561_thumb.jpg

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Any more pics of the bulb pour? What do you use as for the mould? Did you do the lot in a single pour?

 

Looking good!

 

Cheers

Mojo

 

Looks like a single pour into a sand mold. Did you use any antimony with the lead mate?

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Had a plug CNC then made two glass halves out of vinelester and bolted together and poured from one end, had it set up in a sand box just incase, then once cooled un bolted glass shells and left with a smooth bulb.

 

 

Any more pics of the bulb pour? What do you use as for the mould? Did you do the lot in a single pour?

 

Looking good!

 

Cheers

Mojo

 

Looks like a single pour into a sand mold. Did you use any antimony with the lead mate?

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Had a plug CNC then made two glass halves out of vinelester and bolted together and poured from one end, had it set up in a sand box just incase, then once cooled un bolted glass shells and left with a smooth bulb.

 

 

Any more pics of the bulb pour? What do you use as for the mould? Did you do the lot in a single pour?

 

Looking good!

 

Cheers

Mojo

 

Looks like a single pour into a sand mold. Did you use any antimony with the lead mate?

 

Thats clever with the vinylester cast, did it hold up to the temp? We use a similar method when casting except we CNC poltstyrene to make the plug then compact with sand, when you pour the lead the polystyrene plug is simply evaporated. I would love to see a pic of the bulb.

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Vinyl works a treat, will get some photos, just cracks off. Our plug was 60kg foam .

Had a plug CNC then made two glass halves out of vinelester and bolted together and poured from one end, had it set up in a sand box just incase, then once cooled un bolted glass shells and left with a smooth bulb.

 

 

Any more pics of the bulb pour? What do you use as for the mould? Did you do the lot in a single pour?

 

Looking good!

 

Cheers

Mojo

 

Looks like a single pour into a sand mold. Did you use any antimony with the lead mate?

 

Thats clever with the vinylester cast, did it hold up to the temp? We use a similar method when casting except we CNC poltstyrene to make the plug then compact with sand, when you pour the lead the polystyrene plug is simply evaporated. I would love to see a pic of the bulb.

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60kg is the density of the foam that gets cut , there is about 160kg lead in the pencil.

60kg of foam or a foam mold for 60kg lead? Probably big difference in size

 

 

Maybe 60Kg M3 foam?

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Thought that may have been the case:) . Not that it matters now, but in future you can use a polystyrene plug its much cheaper! What you do is set up your sandbox with the plug inside it (as you would with a timber plug) except you leave the polystyrene plug in there (no need to do two halves then join or as in your case make a female mold). You then pour your lead straight onto the polystyrene bulb and the polystyrene melts away!!!! Cheap effective and easy:) . But I guess you can sell your bulb plug (s) to someone else. Or better still you can make the bulbs for others!!!

Did you use any antimony in your lead? If so what percentage? We use 3 - 5.

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What a cool project, any idea of what the cabin version weighs in at?

i reckon it would be about the same as a carton of beer extra

 

Beer, ok build the babin, rum or bourbon.....what cabin :lol:

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The boat is beautiful. thanks for keeping us updated.

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just a general question of those who are building or have built sporties recently. what sort of hatches are you using in the floor?

 

I am just about to cut the holes but I thought I might see what others are using and are happy with.

 

JB.

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Bowie,

 

Maybe check out what the shaw's have in them, they all seem to have the hatches in them. I am pretty sure the noosa leech isn't having the hatches in the floor, but I would imagine the gold coast one will.

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southpac hatches are pretty good; that's what is in the production shaw 650s.

 

A lot of the bigger size hatches distort with weight on them, and the seals aren't so great, southpac ones don't have these issues and are pretty UV resistant as well.

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southpac hatches are pretty good; that's what is in the production shaw 650s.

 

A lot of the bigger size hatches distort with weight on them, and the seals aren't so great, southpac ones don't have these issues and are pretty UV resistant as well.

 

 

Just did a quick search and can't find southpac hatches - who sells them? We have trouble with distortion and leaking on our current setup.

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My bad, try Sopac hatches...I knew it was some name like that.

 

http://www.sopacmarine.com.au/Portals/3/pdf/hatches/Hatches.pdf

 

They are a NZ company, so probably can understand even when an Australian is ordering something. Just remember, none of this eski malarky, the correct technical name for it is a chully bun.

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My bad, try Sopac hatches...I knew it was some name like that.

 

http://www.sopacmarine.com.au/Portals/3/pdf/hatches/Hatches.pdf

 

They are a NZ company, so probably can understand even when an Australian is ordering something. Just remember, none of this eski malarky, the correct technical name for it is a chully bun.

 

 

Well I'll grab my jandells, put down the L&P and get on down there ....

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Peow peow's leak, but it's not that big of a problem as its a dry boat! ;-)

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If it leaks then it's not a dry boat....oh you are referring to alcohol. You don't now what brand they are by any chance?

 

Fuck what concerns me most is that if there is no alcohol what are you doing on it

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Peow's are so PAC!

 

 

Now that I've looked, so are ours. :(

Back to the drawing board. We will put a small person down there with a torch and turn the hose on it to see what's actually happening. Probably too much obesity jumping around on them for anything plastic to handle.

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Hey guys, thanks for the feed back, off to buy them this morning. All I need now are some sails, a mast and paint.

 

JB.

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Hey guys, thanks for the feed back, off to buy them this morning. All I need now are some sails, a mast and paint.

 

JB.

Crew?

 

Since they have voted me out of the big boys sand pit?

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Are these the same big boys that won't allow little green boats. Crew? .... fuck yeah why not.

 

Yeah funny that hey, ban you, but let sb3's and that quattro thing race!

 

Who did you upset!

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Bowie,

 

Maybe check out what the shaw's have in them, they all seem to have the hatches in them. I am pretty sure the noosa leech isn't having the hatches in the floor, but I would imagine the gold coast one will.

 

No Hatches in this Baby... no time for drinking on this little Sucker.

post-11204-071044600 1334382215_thumb.jpg

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Bowie,

 

Maybe check out what the shaw's have in them, they all seem to have the hatches in them. I am pretty sure the noosa leech isn't having the hatches in the floor, but I would imagine the gold coast one will.

 

No Hatches in this Baby... no time for drinking on this little Sucker.

 

See... I told you no hatches... but soon to have Rig and fun. Should make the B to B. Just. See you guys there.

post-11204-042615900 1334382393_thumb.jpg

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Bowie,

 

Maybe check out what the shaw's have in them, they all seem to have the hatches in them. I am pretty sure the noosa leech isn't having the hatches in the floor, but I would imagine the gold coast one will.

 

No Hatches in this Baby... no time for drinking on this little Sucker.

 

Will be interesting when they sms measure it, my boat got measured from the end of the pole opening! Wonder if all boats were? And this one will be!

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Bowie,

 

Maybe check out what the shaw's have in them, they all seem to have the hatches in them. I am pretty sure the noosa leech isn't having the hatches in the floor, but I would imagine the gold coast one will.

 

No Hatches in this Baby... no time for drinking on this little Sucker.

 

Will be interesting when they sms measure it, my boat got measured from the end of the pole opening! Wonder if all boats were? And this one will be!

Interesting point slapper....which is wrong. I have measured a few yachts from different rating systems thru mu life and the intention is always to procure the waterline extension....not how big your schlong is. Maybe the rule wants looking into????

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Bowie,

 

Maybe check out what the shaw's have in them, they all seem to have the hatches in them. I am pretty sure the noosa leech isn't having the hatches in the floor, but I would imagine the gold coast one will.

 

No Hatches in this Baby... no time for drinking on this little Sucker.

 

Will be interesting when they sms measure it, my boat got measured from the end of the pole opening! Wonder if all boats were? And this one will be!

Interesting point slapper....which is wrong. I have measured a few yachts from different rating systems thru mu life and the intention is always to procure the waterline extension....not how big your schlong is. Maybe the rule wants looking into????

 

From the SMS manual -

 

"LOA - The overall length of the hull from bow to transom. exclude all fittings, rigging, bow sprit and pulpits. Do not include a transom hung rudder or rudder fittings. ........ etc"

 

 

post-21223-038308400 1334446055_thumb.jpg

 

So if Magoo got measured to the end of the pole openning, that would have been ...........at the bow????!!

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Looking good. Are those reverse diagnonals in the top section?

 

Cheers

Mojo

 

 

i dont think so. i think they are just taped to the mast. i think they will come straight down to the chainplates.

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We are just the builders, owner has gone with a heavier board to allowed sailing at a shallower draft, board weighed in at 175kg. I think the flush deck version weighs around 100kg

 

RIGHT! What is bulb weight about 140 Kg? how shallow is the draft/

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Bare hull got weighed on friday and came in a 219kg painted.

 

shaw is reputed to be under 150kg bare/gel, viper must be similar given keels/OA weight are virt. the same

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Yes gybing keel when sailing, clothes line when on the

Trailer

 

 

Ouch!!! I have sailed a few boats with gybing keel when going fast downwind control was always the problem. How is it controlled??? The problem I am talking about was a small amount of freeplay that caused HUGE vibrations at speed, the sorta Vibes chicks would love ;) but makes men want to jump ovenoard!!! Got any pics of how it works?

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