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deluxe68

Beneteau 36.7 Wheel Rubbing

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I have a 2010 Beneteau 36.7 with a Lewmar wheel. After I had the annual maintenance done on the boat I noticed that the wheel now rubs against the aft side of the cut-out. The wheel only makes contact with the cut-out for about 1/4 of the travel but the rest of the time it is nearly touching. The hub looks like it cannot be moved any further forward. Is there an internal adjustment for the shaft? It may be a combination of the wheel getting bent and the adjustment not centering the wheel.

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1. Be sure the wheel is fully seated on the shaft.

2. Pull the wheel and reinstall 90 degrees off. Repeat until the wheel warp matches the shaft imperfection and it doesn't rub any more.

3. Take it to your local tire store and have it spin balanced. This always cures wheel wobble on my car. :D

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1. Be sure the wheel is fully seated on the shaft.

2. Pull the wheel and reinstall 90 degrees off. Repeat until the wheel warp matches the shaft imperfection and it doesn't rub any more.

3. Take it to your local tire store and have it spin balanced. This always cures wheel wobble on my car. :D

 

 

From looking at the hub there is only about 1/8" room to move the hub/wheel forward, not enough to keep the wheel from rubbing the cut-out in the floor. I found some drawings on the internet and it looks like there is a keyway in the hub which would not allow rotation.

 

 

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Shim mthe pedestal??????? First ask the maint. guy what the fuck he did and cancel payment on check or credit card. Hurry! If it absolutely was not that way before maintence, out the f'er.

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1. Be sure the wheel is fully seated on the shaft.

2. Pull the wheel and reinstall 90 degrees off. Repeat until the wheel warp matches the shaft imperfection and it doesn't rub any more.

3. Take it to your local tire store and have it spin balanced. This always cures wheel wobble on my car. :D

 

 

From looking at the hub there is only about 1/8" room to move the hub/wheel forward, not enough to keep the wheel from rubbing the cut-out in the floor. I found some drawings on the internet and it looks like there is a keyway in the hub which would not allow rotation.

 

 

did you stop to think that standing behind the wheel and hanging on you'd be pulling back on it? could be you're the culprit here and it's not a new thing, find a way to shove it forward again

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This may sound rediculously stupid, but any chance the wheel is on backwards? No clue what's on a Benny, but some have an offset on one side.

 

The only time I've ever seen a wheel un-installed on a Beneteau was when it set itself free on us during a Mac race. Since we had a kite up and were chugging along in 20 knots of breeze, I didn't pay much attention to the details of its design.

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If it was centered in the cut-out before and it's not now, something got re-assembled incorrectly. The wheel may be on backwards like bow monkey mentioned or something else is assembled wrong. I've had to re-do all kinds of work on cars, airplanes and boats over the years after receiving professional service.

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This may sound rediculously stupid, but any chance the wheel is on backwards? No clue what's on a Benny, but some have an offset on one side.

 

The only time I've ever seen a wheel un-installed on a Beneteau was when it set itself free on us during a Mac race. Since we had a kite up and were chugging along in 20 knots of breeze, I didn't pay much attention to the details of its design.

 

 

That is probably the case, I am going to bring more tools next time we go out to the boat and remove the wheel. The dealer did the service work a while back but I did not get out to the boat for a few months, the dealer said the boat was out of warranty and it would cost me. I did not think to ensure the wheel was centered exactly when I bought it so it may have been off all along but a little bump knocked it the rest of the way out.

 

 

 

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This may sound rediculously stupid, but any chance the wheel is on backwards? No clue what's on a Benny, but some have an offset on one side.

 

The only time I've ever seen a wheel un-installed on a Beneteau was when it set itself free on us during a Mac race. Since we had a kite up and were chugging along in 20 knots of breeze, I didn't pay much attention to the details of its design.

 

 

That is probably the case, I am going to bring more tools next time we go out to the boat and remove the wheel. The dealer did the service work a while back but I did not get out to the boat for a few months, the dealer said the boat was out of warranty and it would cost me. I did not think to ensure the wheel was centered exactly when I bought it so it may have been off all along but a little bump knocked it the rest of the way out.

I'm pretty sure you would have noticed if the wheel was that mangled when you bought the boat. Something was re-installed wrong. My guess is still a backwards wheel, or possibly a forgotten spacer.

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The wheel is likely fitted to a tapered shaft which would prevent a person from installing it "backwards", and as correctly stated, the wheel is keyed in place on the shaft, preventing the hub from rotating independently from the shaft. So, with that in mind, the "other" remote possibility that could account for the wheel rubbing on the wheel well is that the bearings that support the shaft on the aft side of the pedestal are worn out and need replacement. Since the boat has a bulkhead steerer on a fiberglass pedestal, any runout in the aft shaft bearing will result in some wheel "wobble" and only a few .01 of an inch run out will translate to 1/2 or more free play or wobble at the rim. Check the wheel shaft for tightness and refresh the bearings in the pedestal steerer to make things right again. A stainless steel bi-spoked wheel as is found on the Bene First series boats is god awful heavy and can wear out bearings easily...

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Ditch the wheel and get a tiller...

And eliminate its ability to race class legal... Brilliant suggestion.

 

If the class were worried about potential inequalities in boat performance then perhaps they should first deal with the fact that the keels are all different and that making them identical is, under class rules, illegal. ;)

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My guess would be that a few thrust washers or shims were installed in the wrong order/place.

Not likely. The wheel hub has a tapered that mates to the same taper as the wheel shaft. It can only go on so far. If the wheel is rubbing on the aft portion of the wheel well, there's the outside possibility that the wheel is riding up on a woodruff (crescent shaped) key stock and isn't seating properly on the taper. There are no spacers, thrust washers or any other parts that would be needed externally on the wheel shaft to secure the wheel other than the wheel nut and brake knob.

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I have a 2010 Beneteau 36.7 with a Lewmar wheel. After I had the annual maintenance done on the boat I noticed that the wheel now rubs against the aft side of the cut-out. The wheel only makes contact with the cut-out for about 1/4 of the travel but the rest of the time it is nearly touching. The hub looks like it cannot be moved any further forward. Is there an internal adjustment for the shaft? It may be a combination of the wheel getting bent and the adjustment not centering the wheel.

 

hmmm aft side? did you have the steering modified for the 1:1? I have not taken my wheel off so bottom line is check for the wheel running true, if it rubs all the time the wheel is turned, then the wheel is backwards (though unlikely given the taper). If you REALLY are not getting satisfaction send an email to Annapolis Yacht sale and ask to speak to Fred. We got our 2008 from them (with the new style pedastal).

 

Regards

Bruce

Stardancer

Mighty Beneteau 36.7

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I have a 2010 Beneteau 36.7 with a Lewmar wheel. After I had the annual maintenance done on the boat I noticed that the wheel now rubs against the aft side of the cut-out. The wheel only makes contact with the cut-out for about 1/4 of the travel but the rest of the time it is nearly touching. The hub looks like it cannot be moved any further forward. Is there an internal adjustment for the shaft? It may be a combination of the wheel getting bent and the adjustment not centering the wheel.

 

hmmm aft side? did you have the steering modified for the 1:1? I have not taken my wheel off so bottom line is check for the wheel running true, if it rubs all the time the wheel is turned, then the wheel is backwards (though unlikely given the taper). If you REALLY are not getting satisfaction send an email to Annapolis Yacht sale and ask to speak to Fred. We got our 2008 from them (with the new style pedastal).

 

Regards

Bruce

Stardancer

Mighty Beneteau 36.7

 

No mods to the wheel or steering, boat has not seen too much use.

 

 

 

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If the Woodruff key is not installed so the top surface is parallel to the taper in the shaft, the wheel can bind, which can prevent it from going all the way onto the taper. Way back in the day, when I did that kind of work, we would clean and grease the aperture in the shaft, and then grease the key to prevent it from binding when the wheel was installed. Another method was to note the position of the wheel when it was installed without the key, and then make certain that when it was assembled with the key in place, the wheel went all the way onto the taper. Keep in mind that there may also be shims inside the steering pedestal that control the position of the shaft, and if those are out of whack, they can also cause this kind of problem.

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Not sure about the 36.7 wheel, but on my 44.7 the wheel hub assembly can be dismantled. It consists of at least three discs that form the hub and are held together by a number of allen head screws.

 

When tightened, they hold the spokes together by clamping them. If the wheel has suffered a significant fore/aft hit (eg offshore?) the wheel spokes can come out of alignment. To fix it you would slightly undo the allen key nuts to release the pressure on the spokes at the hub, re-align the wheel by pushing in the appropriate direction and then re-tighten.

 

Our wheel is similiar to the Whitlock Fastnet wheel and has two spokes in each quadrant allowing adjustable fore/aft movement.

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Not sure about the 36.7 wheel, but on my 44.7 the wheel hub assembly can be dismantled. It consists of at least three discs that form the hub and are held together by a number of allen head screws.

 

When tightened, they hold the spokes together by clamping them. If the wheel has suffered a significant fore/aft hit (eg offshore?) the wheel spokes can come out of alignment. To fix it you would slightly undo the allen key nuts to release the pressure on the spokes at the hub, re-align the wheel by pushing in the appropriate direction and then re-tighten.

 

Our wheel is similiar to the Whitlock Fastnet wheel and has two spokes in each quadrant allowing adjustable fore/aft movement.

 

 

 

I think this may be the winner. The maintenance tech may have used a bit too much force to take the wheel off during the annual. Thanks

 

 

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Not sure about the 36.7 wheel, but on my 44.7 the wheel hub assembly can be dismantled. It consists of at least three discs that form the hub and are held together by a number of allen head screws.

 

When tightened, they hold the spokes together by clamping them. If the wheel has suffered a significant fore/aft hit (eg offshore?) the wheel spokes can come out of alignment. To fix it you would slightly undo the allen key nuts to release the pressure on the spokes at the hub, re-align the wheel by pushing in the appropriate direction and then re-tighten.

 

Our wheel is similiar to the Whitlock Fastnet wheel and has two spokes in each quadrant allowing adjustable fore/aft movement.

I was tugging an over wrap out of a winch when it let go and flew back into a 36.7 wheel, it was a couple days later we noticed a slight but similar problem.

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Not sure about the 36.7 wheel, but on my 44.7 the wheel hub assembly can be dismantled. It consists of at least three discs that form the hub and are held together by a number of allen head screws.

 

When tightened, they hold the spokes together by clamping them. If the wheel has suffered a significant fore/aft hit (eg offshore?) the wheel spokes can come out of alignment. To fix it you would slightly undo the allen key nuts to release the pressure on the spokes at the hub, re-align the wheel by pushing in the appropriate direction and then re-tighten.

 

Our wheel is similiar to the Whitlock Fastnet wheel and has two spokes in each quadrant allowing adjustable fore/aft movement.

 

Just got back from visiting the boat. The wheel spokes are welded so essentially the wheel is one piece. Took it off and laid it down on the cement dock and it appears to be true. But the rubbing does not seem to be consistent as only 1/4 of the wheel is contacting the aft section of the well. It may be a combination of a mis-alignment and the wheel getting bumped during the dealers extra special annual service.

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The other possibility is that the shaft is bent.

 

Can you remove the locking key on the shaft so that wheel can rotate freely on the shaft (or if not set up the wheel on a temporary structure and rotate it and measure any variance).

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I have a 2010 Beneteau 36.7 with a Lewmar wheel. After I had the annual maintenance done on the boat I noticed that the wheel now rubs against the aft side of the cut-out. The wheel only makes contact with the cut-out for about 1/4 of the travel but the rest of the time it is nearly touching. The hub looks like it cannot be moved any further forward. Is there an internal adjustment for the shaft? It may be a combination of the wheel getting bent and the adjustment not centering the wheel.

 

 

Every person who has dissasembled many things has reassembled something in a new order....

 

 

 

558774.jpg

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I have a 2010 Beneteau 36.7 with a Lewmar wheel. After I had the annual maintenance done on the boat I noticed that the wheel now rubs against the aft side of the cut-out. The wheel only makes contact with the cut-out for about 1/4 of the travel but the rest of the time it is nearly touching. The hub looks like it cannot be moved any further forward. Is there an internal adjustment for the shaft? It may be a combination of the wheel getting bent and the adjustment not centering the wheel.

 

I accidentally fell against the wheel on my 40.7. The result was what you describe. We straightened it by just shoving it back in alignment. Thereafter a couple of the welds between the wheel and the spokes gave way and I had to have them rewelded. The only other possibility is that the front bearing in the pedestal has come adrift. That should be easy to spot.

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Ok, had a similar problem on my 36.7 with the same wheel setup a few years ago. once you get everything off and take the trim ring off, there is an aluminum bracket that everything is secured to. Its a simple set up. 4 rather large allen screws hold it all together. In my case, one screw had loosened a hair and the wheel was wobbling. the thing is, with a wheel of that diameter, a single thread off has a huge impact 3 feet away. Do the math....1/64th of an inch at the hub......

 

Take it all apart, clean everything up. Removable locktite on the allen screws, make sure the key is in perfect. tighten back up.

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Ok, had a similar problem on my 36.7 with the same wheel setup a few years ago. once you get everything off and take the trim ring off, there is an aluminum bracket that everything is secured to. Its a simple set up. 4 rather large allen screws hold it all together. In my case, one screw had loosened a hair and the wheel was wobbling. the thing is, with a wheel of that diameter, a single thread off has a huge impact 3 feet away. Do the math....1/64th of an inch at the hub......

 

Take it all apart, clean everything up. Removable locktite on the allen screws, make sure the key is in perfect. tighten back up.

 

You have the triangular binnacle with the larger wheel?

If so, thanks great tip!

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Ok, had a similar problem on my 36.7 with the same wheel setup a few years ago. once you get everything off and take the trim ring off, there is an aluminum bracket that everything is secured to. Its a simple set up. 4 rather large allen screws hold it all together. In my case, one screw had loosened a hair and the wheel was wobbling. the thing is, with a wheel of that diameter, a single thread off has a huge impact 3 feet away. Do the math....1/64th of an inch at the hub......

 

Take it all apart, clean everything up. Removable locktite on the allen screws, make sure the key is in perfect. tighten back up.

 

You have the triangular binnacle with the larger wheel?

If so, thanks great tip!

yep....thats the one.

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1344060087[/url]' post='3812308']

Ok, had a similar problem on my 36.7 with the same wheel setup a few years ago. once you get everything off and take the trim ring off, there is an aluminum bracket that everything is secured to. Its a simple set up. 4 rather large allen screws hold it all together. In my case, one screw had loosened a hair and the wheel was wobbling. the thing is, with a wheel of that diameter, a single thread off has a huge impact 3 feet away. Do the math....1/64th of an inch at the hub......

 

Take it all apart, clean everything up. Removable locktite on the allen screws, make sure the key is in perfect. tighten back up.

 

Thanks for the help.

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The other possibility is that the shaft is bent.

 

Can you remove the locking key on the shaft so that wheel can rotate freely on the shaft (or if not set up the wheel on a temporary structure and rotate it and measure any variance).

 

 

If designed and put together correctly the taper holds most of the torque load, not the key, so this may not work. However it is worth a shot.

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Ok, had a similar problem on my 36.7 with the same wheel setup a few years ago. once you get everything off and take the trim ring off, there is an aluminum bracket that everything is secured to. Its a simple set up. 4 rather large allen screws hold it all together. In my case, one screw had loosened a hair and the wheel was wobbling. the thing is, with a wheel of that diameter, a single thread off has a huge impact 3 feet away. Do the math....1/64th of an inch at the hub......

 

Take it all apart, clean everything up. Removable locktite on the allen screws, make sure the key is in perfect. tighten back up.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

So--- Did you try 2high2tight's suggestion? Did it work?

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