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      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

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    • B.J. Porter

      Moderation Team Change   06/16/2017

      After fifteen years of volunteer moderation at SA, I will no longer be part of the moderation team. The decision to step aside is mine, and has been some time in the works but we did not wish to announce it in advance for a number of reasons. It's been fun, but I need my time back for other purposes now. The Underdawg admin account will not be monitored until further notice, as I will be relinquishing control of it along with my administrative privileges. Zapata will continue on as a moderator, and any concerns or issues can be directed to that account or to the Editor until further notice. Anyone interested in helping moderate the forums should reach out to Scot by sending a PM to the Editor account. Please note that I am not leaving the community, I am merely stepping aside from Admin responsibilities and privileges on the site.

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celphtaught

brake anarchy

53 posts in this topic

I need to get my hands on some inexpensive front rotors for my a6, preferably drilled and slotted but not a deal breaker. Anyone hook a brother up?

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Why do you need drilled and slotted on a street car? Do you take the A6 to track days? If not it's a wank... Just get stock rotors.

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MB - he's towing his 28ft Searay with it everyone knows drilled and slotted rotors help stop searays.

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I need to get my hands on some inexpensive front rotors for my a6, preferably drilled and slotted but not a deal breaker. Anyone hook a brother up?

"Inexpensive" and "Audi" do not go together. I've had 5 of them over the last 35 years or so. But I wised up. Now I drive a Porsche!!

 

:lol:

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I need to get my hands on some inexpensive front rotors for my a6, preferably drilled and slotted but not a deal breaker. Anyone hook a brother up?

"Inexpensive" and "Audi" do not go together. I've had 5 of them over the last 35 years or so. But I wised up. Now I drive a Porsche!!

 

:lol:

 

Have you had your oil changed recently? Or brake fluid changed?

 

B)

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I need to get my hands on some inexpensive front rotors for my a6, preferably drilled and slotted but not a deal breaker. Anyone hook a brother up?

"Inexpensive" and "Audi" do not go together. I've had 5 of them over the last 35 years or so. But I wised up. Now I drive a Porsche!!

 

:lol:

 

Have you had your oil changed recently? Or brake fluid changed?

 

B)

Yup!!

Oil "service" and brake fluid change, at the dealership, was just north of $500.

Car goes in next week for spark plugs, mechanical checkup on the convertible top, check air bag sensors, check roll over protection, engine air filter, cabin air filter. And I get a "free" loaner and a "free" detailing. Boy am I lucky.

 

I keep telling my sons that it is simply less money for them to fight over when I die.

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forgot--the oil service is once a year or 15,000 miles. Brake fluid is every 2 years. That makes it so much better.

 

Once upon a time someone asked me how I could afford to play golf since it was so expensive. My answer was simple--expensive? Try sailboat racing.

 

:blink:

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www.autopartswarehouse.com

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forgot--the oil service is once a year or 15,000 miles. Brake fluid is every 2 years. That makes it so much better.

 

Once upon a time someone asked me how I could afford to play golf since it was so expensive. My answer was simple--expensive? Try sailboat racing.

 

:blink:

 

No doubt - wife and I met racing sailboats. We drive a Subaru and just bought a used 06 Sequoia to replace our 93 landcruiser. We have a few friends who drive the latest hot rod whatever trendy expensive ride. They now and then will say something and the wife and I both remind them that they got a ride on our hand built custom one of a kind composite sports car last weekend during a sunset wine cruise. HA HA

 

No boat and a very very nice 911 Turbo would be far cheaper and require far less time to wash not counting the time to and from the YC vs walking out to the garage.

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forgot--the oil service is once a year or 15,000 miles. Brake fluid is every 2 years. That makes it so much better.

 

Once upon a time someone asked me how I could afford to play golf since it was so expensive. My answer was simple--expensive? Try sailboat racing.

 

:blink:

 

No doubt - wife and I met racing sailboats. We drive a Subaru and just bought a used 06 Sequoia to replace our 93 landcruiser. We have a few friends who drive the latest hot rod whatever trendy expensive ride. They now and then will say something and the wife and I both remind them that they got a ride on our hand built custom one of a kind composite sports car last weekend during a sunset wine cruise. HA HA

 

No boat and a very very nice 911 Turbo would be far cheaper and require far less time to wash not counting the time to and from the YC vs walking out to the garage.

 

Boat is gone. Sold it years ago to pay for a couple of years of college tuition for the younger kid. Car is a 2004, just a 911 cabriolet, not a turbo or even an "S". I live about 10 minutes from the YC so a Sunday afternoon jaunt down there to sit on the patio have a drink or two (diet coke when I'm driving that car), and look at all the boats in our slip system that never leave their slips. Don't need 3 or 4 people to drive the car. Needed a couple of folks when it was time to take the boat out.

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I'm still trying to figure out the need for drilled/slotted rotors on an A6. Waste of money for the cool factor.

 

If I didn't need them, I sure as hell wouldn't have spent the extra money.

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I'm still trying to figure out the need for drilled/slotted rotors on an A6. Waste of money for the cool factor.

 

If I didn't need them, I sure as hell wouldn't have spent the extra money.

 

But but, all the angry lawnmowers have them! Next he needs a 6" tailpipe. Then he can be REAAAAALLLLLLLYYYYY cool.

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That's fair, I don't really need them and price point is a big factor. Thoughts on ceramic pads? And would you think it'd be cheaper to order on ecs or have the garage order them?

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Not a waste of money at all, huge difference, but do it properly, go carbon.

 

Ceramic.

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Not a waste of money at all, huge difference, but do it properly, go carbon.

 

Ceramic.

 

Carbon.

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That's fair, I don't really need them and price point is a big factor. Thoughts on ceramic pads? And would you think it'd be cheaper to order on ecs or have the garage order them?

Good pads are a MUCH better place to spend money. You'll benefit from them every time you drive. The Gucci rotors would only help if you're frequently building up a ton of heat. I'm not that current on the best materials though. Mine are very purpose built for big tires/small rotors, so it's been awhile since I've looked into "normal" pads. It's almost always cheaper buying the parts on your own, but many garages frown on that. Brakes and rotors aren't hard to do on your own though.

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Not a waste of money at all, huge difference, but do it properly, go carbon.

 

Ceramic.

 

Carbon.

 

Carbon-ceramic.

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Lack the facility or knowledge of german cars to do the pads and rotors on my own. Already told the garage I may have my own rotors b/c I thought my buddy had some, so they're expecting outside goods. I'm just trying to reduce the $650 bill they quoted me.

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They really like it when you bring your own parts.

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Lack the facility or knowledge of german cars to do the pads and rotors on my own. Already told the garage I may have my own rotors b/c I thought my buddy had some, so they're expecting outside goods. I'm just trying to reduce the $650 bill they quoted me.

 

Seriously, brakes are pretty easy so long as you have some basic tools... These guys differ on that opinion. Just remember to pump them back up after replacement and use the proper grease for the little set pin thingy. And put the anti-squeal stuff on that comes with the pads.

 

In my experience, I've had mixed success on brakes or tires for German cars when I've used non OEM. I've tried lots of different combos including ceramic etc...OEM has always been the best bet.

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I once screwed up an oil change on a Pontiac. Did not notice that the rubber seal on the old oil filter stuck to the car so when I put the new filter on there were 2 rubber seals. Fired up the car, drove 1/2 mile watched the oil pressure in the car drop to near zero. Looked out the rear window and saw 5+ quarts of oil in a nice line following my car.

 

After that experience there is no way I'm touching the brakes on my 911.

 

And to think, my brother is a retired auto mechanic.

 

<_<

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Not a waste of money at all, huge difference, but do it properly, go carbon.

 

Ceramic.

 

Carbon.

 

Carbon-ceramic.

 

 

Cheapo steel and 2 steps more expensive than the cheapest pad at Rock Auto, he isn't racing at Indy, he's a broke student trying to get to class... Sheesh :rolleyes:

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Brakes? Buy a decent sized anchor, mount it in the trunk with a quick release line (made from some exotic and ridiculous overpriced fibre).

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Not a waste of money at all, huge difference, but do it properly, go carbon.

 

Ceramic.

 

Carbon.

 

Carbon-ceramic.

 

nokia phones..

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Please dont buy cheap shit rotors and pads. If I was buying rotors for my A6 I would use Bendix, TRW, or Brembo (Brembo does make a base rotor). For pads I would use Federal Mogul or Akebono. Anything else is a guessing game at best.

 

Changing rotors and pads is really easy, but because of the TRW rear caliper on the car you will need to borrow/buy one of these if you intend to DIY-

 

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Wind-Back-Tool/dp/B000IB40L6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336153563&sr=8-1

 

You can retract the rear piston with needle nose pliers, but it is a pain in the ass. Buy it, use it, return it if you must.

 

I can explain to you how to change the rotors and pads via PM if you are interested. It is a 1-2 hour job if you have the proper tools.

 

MS

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Please dont buy cheap shit rotors and pads. If I was buying rotors for my A6 I would use Bendix, TRW, or Brembo (Brembo does make a base rotor). For pads I would use Federal Mogul or Akebono. Anything else is a guessing game at best.

 

Changing rotors and pads is really easy, but because of the TRW rear caliper on the car you will need to borrow/buy one of these if you intend to DIY-

 

http://www.amazon.co...36153563&sr=8-1

 

You can retract the rear piston with needle nose pliers, but it is a pain in the ass. Buy it, use it, return it if you must.

 

I can explain to you how to change the rotors and pads via PM if you are interested. It is a 1-2 hour job if you have the proper tools.

 

MS

 

Autozone will loan you tools like that, bearing presses etc..

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Lack the facility or knowledge of german cars to do the pads and rotors on my own. Already told the garage I may have my own rotors b/c I thought my buddy had some, so they're expecting outside goods. I'm just trying to reduce the $650 bill they quoted me.

 

Celph if you have ever mixed two part epoxy - you can replace pads and rotors LOL.

 

First week of April we picked up a single owner 06 Sequoia pads were down to about 10% rotors were fine. Took me about an hour to put new stock pads on it - had never even looked at a toyota truck newer than 93 regarding brakes. Brakes are about the most basic no brainer job designed to be nearly 100% fool proof. All I had was a jack - a stand and an empty driveway for an hour.

 

Our VW uses allen wrenches instead of metric bolts but the disc and pads removal and install is exactly the same as the Sequoia - and our Subaru and even the old 93 Land Cruiser. The shops all wanted over $600 - it cost me $150 for the stock pads front and rear ordered online at about a 30% discount compared to the dealer parts counter across town.

 

All my track buddies say the same thing regarding brakes - stick with OEM for pads and discs unless you plan on going after market on other various bits too like brake lines and even calipers etc. If your stock pads and rotors run 30-40K with no issues why spend more on aftermarket parts that for the most part have a shorter life span and a higher cost? Unless of course your doing track days and added performance over durability and life is your interest.

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Please dont buy cheap shit rotors and pads. If I was buying rotors for my A6 I would use Bendix, TRW, or Brembo (Brembo does make a base rotor). For pads I would use Federal Mogul or Akebono. Anything else is a guessing game at best.

 

Changing rotors and pads is really easy, but because of the TRW rear caliper on the car you will need to borrow/buy one of these if you intend to DIY-

 

http://www.amazon.co...36153563&sr=8-1

 

You can retract the rear piston with needle nose pliers, but it is a pain in the ass. Buy it, use it, return it if you must.

 

I can explain to you how to change the rotors and pads via PM if you are interested. It is a 1-2 hour job if you have the proper tools.

 

MS

 

 

If he wasn't a starving college student, I would agree, it really depends on how long he is keeping the car, after all this cuts into his beer fund. B)

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That's fair, I don't really need them and price point is a big factor. Thoughts on ceramic pads? And would you think it'd be cheaper to order on ecs or have the garage order them?

 

EBC green stuff brake pads give a great pedal feel. Ceramics leave your wheels clean but have no pedal modulation. IMO...

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Not a waste of money at all, huge difference, but do it properly, go carbon.

 

Ceramic.

 

Carbon.

 

Carbon-ceramic.

Deal.

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They really like it when you bring your own parts.

 

You're probably a first time/one time customer at this garage and they won't be thrilled if you walk in with new parts in boxes. Their attitude might be reflected in the work they do or they might find another problem while working on the brakes.

 

A6 is not a good car for a college kid on a budget. German car part costs will kill ya.

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They really like it when you bring your own parts.

 

You're probably a first time/one time customer at this garage and they won't be thrilled if you walk in with new parts in boxes. Their attitude might be reflected in the work they do or they might find another problem while working on the brakes.

 

A6 is not a good car for a college kid on a budget. German car part costs will kill ya.

 

 

More likely they won't warranty the work, and if you get a noise or pulsation, will say "your parts, your problem" Part of the markup that the shop charges covers the warranty they give on their parts and labor. The tech usually doesn't get a cut on parts so he won't care.

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Look at BrakePerformance.com before you do anything else. Dimpled (better than drilled) and slotted rotors with pads for an A6 for under $200. I have used them and have been very pleased. I don't know where you are, but this outfit is in SoCal (Chatsworth) and actually makes the product there. My experience has been that it is good quality stuff.

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an accident that reveals non standard / non approved brake gear without engineering documentation is not a good look for insurance / police or opposing insurer

 

 

 

a change often requires higher performance improvements in the WHOLE package

 

 

 

tyres, suspension, possibly alignment geometry

 

 

good non standard brakes are not always a simple gain

 

 

 

a bit like turboing a rig on a good boat without better rudder and keel ---- and it can still become too twitchy

 

 

 

gains are often only in certain wind ranges

 

 

 

losses can result in other wind ranges

 

 

 

good design ( if that what an audi is )

 

 

 

can be difficult to modify without losing " balance "

 

 

 

boat or car

 

 

 

 

 

you stop quicker

 

 

 

just maybe

 

 

 

you get rear ended more often

 

 

 

That's what happened to alfa drivers in the 60's & 70's

 

 

 

you need a car to behave similar to the rest of the traffic in the pack ..................

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They really like it when you bring your own parts.

 

They encourage it and will happily find every other little thing wrong with your car to fix for you.

PS. Go slow after.

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or stay standard spec

 

 

 

P. S. I thort u woz un enjineer

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Different kind of engineer. If the car had a head or a desal plant and one wasn't working I might be able to troubleshoot a fix.

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Not a waste of money at all, huge difference, but do it properly, go carbon.

 

Ceramic.

 

Carbon.

 

Unobtainum, with sintered tungsten pads.

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Not a waste of money at all, huge difference, but do it properly, go carbon.

 

Ceramic.

 

Carbon.

 

Unobtainum, with sintered tungsten pads.

 

Greased with unicorn tears.

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Different kind of engineer. If the car had a head or a desal plant and one wasn't working I might be able to troubleshoot a fix.

 

 

Engineers can't actually fix anything...it takes a tech to do that. :rolleyes::ph34r:

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I once screwed up an oil change on a Pontiac. Did not notice that the rubber seal on the old oil filter stuck to the car so when I put the new filter on there were 2 rubber seals. Fired up the car, drove 1/2 mile watched the oil pressure in the car drop to near zero. Looked out the rear window and saw 5+ quarts of oil in a nice line following my car.

 

After that experience there is no way I'm touching the brakes on my 911.

 

And to think, my brother is a retired auto mechanic.

 

<_<

 

 

Good to hear I'm not the only who's done that. First time I changed the oil on myself on my '77 Celica, I was perplexed to see oil spraying everywhere as soon as the engine fired up. I damn near killed myself trying to tighten that thing up! Dad wasn't too happy about the mess in the driveway, either.

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Different kind of engineer. If the car had a head or a desal plant and one wasn't working I might be able to troubleshoot a fix.

 

 

Engineers can't actually fix anything...it takes a tech to do that. :rolleyes::ph34r:

 

someone works is a union shop

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Different kind of engineer. If the car had a head or a desal plant and one wasn't working I might be able to troubleshoot a fix.

 

 

Engineers can't actually fix anything...it takes a tech to do that. :rolleyes::ph34r:

 

 

I know a guy who has a PhD in physics and is a fairly big deal in the science and engineering that puts those pretty maps on the big projection screens at Verizon's or Akamai's "mission control" network operations centers. His parents, who themselves forewent education so that they could emigrate to the US and put their own kids through college, while duly impressed by his accomplishments, remain somewhat skeptical that with all that fancy technical education he still doesn't know how to fix a TV set.

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Different kind of engineer. If the car had a head or a desal plant and one wasn't working I might be able to troubleshoot a fix.

 

 

Engineers can't actually fix anything...it takes a tech to do that. :rolleyes::ph34r:

 

 

I know a guy who has a PhD in physics and is a fairly big deal in the science and engineering that puts those pretty maps on the big projection screens at Verizon's or Akamai's "mission control" network operations centers. His parents, who themselves forewent education so that they could emigrate to the US and put their own kids through college, while duly impressed by his accomplishments, remain somewhat skeptical that with all that fancy technical education he still doesn't know how to fix a TV set.

Not so long ago here when our Sewage treatment plant was having a major up-grade somone got one of the design Engineers to ring around town, looking to find where to borrow a sky-hook from.

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Sounds like a rookie desk jockey

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Different kind of engineer. If the car had a head or a desal plant and one wasn't working I might be able to troubleshoot a fix.

 

 

Engineers can't actually fix anything...it takes a tech to do that. :rolleyes::ph34r:

 

 

I know a guy who has a PhD in physics and is a fairly big deal in the science and engineering that puts those pretty maps on the big projection screens at Verizon's or Akamai's "mission control" network operations centers. His parents, who themselves forewent education so that they could emigrate to the US and put their own kids through college, while duly impressed by his accomplishments, remain somewhat skeptical that with all that fancy technical education he still doesn't know how to fix a TV set.

Not so long ago here when our Sewage treatment plant was having a major up-grade somone got one of the design Engineers to ring around town, looking to find where to borrow a sky-hook from.

 

Ooof. The same prank wouldn't work as well here, though; "Sky-hook" is a trade name for small construction cranes of the sort you might use to, say, lift something small-ish ( an electrical transformer?) onto the roof of a two storey building; it's the sort of thing that more than one municipal department might own, so a request to call around to borrow one wouldn't come across as silly.

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Different kind of engineer. If the car had a head or a desal plant and one wasn't working I might be able to troubleshoot a fix.

 

 

Engineers can't actually fix anything...it takes a tech to do that. :rolleyes::ph34r:

 

 

I know a guy who has a PhD in physics and is a fairly big deal in the science and engineering that puts those pretty maps on the big projection screens at Verizon's or Akamai's "mission control" network operations centers. His parents, who themselves forewent education so that they could emigrate to the US and put their own kids through college, while duly impressed by his accomplishments, remain somewhat skeptical that with all that fancy technical education he still doesn't know how to fix a TV set.

Not so long ago here when our Sewage treatment plant was having a major up-grade somone got one of the design Engineers to ring around town, looking to find where to borrow a sky-hook from.

 

Ooof. The same prank wouldn't work as well here, though; "Sky-hook" is a trade name for small construction cranes of the sort you might use to, say, lift something small-ish ( an electrical transformer?) onto the roof of a two storey building; it's the sort of thing that more than one municipal department might own, so a request to call around to borrow one wouldn't come across as silly.

Here it does.

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while I understand the joke, we have a "sky hook" brand crane we use to change chucks out on the big lathes we have. It comes from a long line of apprentice jokes, send them out to get: checkered/striped paint, left handed screw driver, metric shifting spanner, a long wait, the list goes on.

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