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J/88

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Would a splice and a tiny dogbone work? The dogbone could be as simple as a nail with the head cut off or some sort of small diameter rod like material.

That occurred to me too, the trick would be making sure it didn't slip out.

 

A few days ago I removed about three inches of core, and put whipping where the core ends and on the end of the remaining cover. Seemed to work much better at the dock, hopefully it will on the water too. Been to busy racing OPB to take my own boat out.

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Congratulations to Rod and Team Jazz at Block Island Race Week ... what a great regatta!

Getting within a point of Rod J is an accomplishment. That last race had to be a nail biter for Rod too, congrats to Team Deviation.

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DQOTD: Furler drum knot!

Our furler hangs up horribly more often than not, because the gap between the bottom of the drum and the bridge is (unnecessarily) narrow and the furling line knot under the drum doesn't clear. I had a figure eight per the manual, and went to the smallest overhand knot possible with no tail, and the #*+^% thing still locks up! We made sure the knot was pulled up tight under the drum, but when it hangs up, sometimes it losses a little - making the problem even worse.

Called Harken and the rep told me to cut 4-6" off the core, leaving only the cover, and tying the knot to make the knot smaller still. I'd think that may let the cover slide, so I am inclined to remove 4-6" of cover instead, like a tapered sheet.

Thought I'd ask here in case others have found other/better solutions, we can't be the only ones (can we?).

He's a thought... Drill a second hole and run the line back inside the drum. Regarding using core only, careful, core can be slippery and a simple overhand knot may not hold.
Thought of that, but I think I'd have to pull the furler. Really don't want to do that. Would taper end to core only first, but hoping for another solution.

 

Bad design IMO, no good reason the gap between the furler drum and bridge has to be that narrow.

It might be possible to countersink the hole without removing the furler, but you'll be drilling blind and probably voiding the warrantee.

There are a lot of twists and turns to the line before it gets to the furler; the furler knot may not be the sole issue.

post-66960-0-89750000-1435595450_thumb.jpg

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DQOTD: Furler drum knot!

Our furler hangs up horribly more often than not, because the gap between the bottom of the drum and the bridge is (unnecessarily) narrow and the furling line knot under the drum doesn't clear. I had a figure eight per the manual, and went to the smallest overhand knot possible with no tail, and the #*+^% thing still locks up! We made sure the knot was pulled up tight under the drum, but when it hangs up, sometimes it losses a little - making the problem even worse.

Called Harken and the rep told me to cut 4-6" off the core, leaving only the cover, and tying the knot to make the knot smaller still. I'd think that may let the cover slide, so I am inclined to remove 4-6" of cover instead, like a tapered sheet.

Thought I'd ask here in case others have found other/better solutions, we can't be the only ones (can we?).

He's a thought... Drill a second hole and run the line back inside the drum. Regarding using core only, careful, core can be slippery and a simple overhand knot may not hold.
Thought of that, but I think I'd have to pull the furler. Really don't want to do that. Would taper end to core only first, but hoping for another solution.

 

Bad design IMO, no good reason the gap between the furler drum and bridge has to be that narrow.

It might be possible to countersink the hole without removing the furler, but you'll be drilling blind and probably voiding the warrantee.

There are a lot of twists and turns to the line before it gets to the furler; the furler knot may not be the sole issue.

 

The two hard right angles up front definitely don't help, no getting around that. Against my initial judgement, I cut 3" off the core (what Harken recommended), whipped where the core stops, and the end and tied the smallest overhand knot with the smallest tail possible. It worked MUCH better at the dock, but the true test will be on the water - too much time racing on OPB lately. But I can guarantee you the knot-clearance issue was the primary issue in my case. Happy to detail if interested.

 

Hadn't thought of underside countersink, that would help, how much I don't know. If I still have problems next few times out, I will probably grind a little off the bridge only at the radius where the knot passes around. It looks like I can drop the bridge without taking anything else apart, grind, and put it back.

 

I shouldn't be having any of these problems though, disappointed in Harken, should have been designed with more clearance IMO.

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Congratulations to Rod and Team Jazz at Block Island Race Week ... what a great regatta!

Getting within a point of Rod J is an accomplishment. That last race had to be a nail biter for Rod too, congrats to Team Deviation.

 

The racing at Block Island was fun and exciting with close finishes.

 

We are looking forward to our next One-Design event: CanAm Challenge - Youngstown, NY - July 25-26, 2015 (x-Youngstown Level Regatta)

 

I've never been but it sounds like an awesome regatta.

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Congratulations to Rod and Team Jazz at Block Island Race Week ... what a great regatta!

Getting within a point of Rod J is an accomplishment. That last race had to be a nail biter for Rod too, congrats to Team Deviation.

 

The racing at Block Island was fun and exciting with close finishes.

 

We are looking forward to our next One-Design event: CanAm Challenge - Youngstown, NY - July 25-26, 2015 (x-Youngstown Level Regatta)

 

I've never been but it sounds like an awesome regatta.

 

Been there, won that!

Pretty neat place to sail.

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DQOTD: TWA & TWS issue?

 

The boat we sail on has B&G Triton instruments. We like them but TWA and TWS readings are off, significant discrepancy upwind vs downwind. I don't expect perfection, but I have not seen anything like this with other instruments.

 

TWA angle says we're tacking thru about 100 (no way), where compass & GPS say 70. TWA downwind might be right. Also put the boat on port and stbd at 90 TWA according to Triton, compass course change about 215.

 

A while back we were sailing upwind and TWS said 10-11 knots. Turned the corner, set the chute, and TWS jumped to 15-16 knots. Next day upwind 6 knots, turned the corner and TWS jumped to 10 knots. Checked two nearby weather buoys and downwind TWS appears to be correct.

 

B&G has not been able to help so far. I am wondering if having the wind instrument mounted atop the mast, not a flat surface, is part/all the issue? Looks like it's tipped forward about 10 degrees? With the way boats pitch and heel I wouldn't think it would be critical, but maybe I am mistaken?

 

I sail on another boat with Triton's, no issues with readings, so I assume there's something hinkey in my setup.

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DQOTD: TWA & TWS issue?

 

The boat we sail on has B&G Triton instruments. We like them but TWA and TWS readings are off, significant discrepancy upwind vs downwind. I don't expect perfection, but I have not seen anything like this with other instruments.

 

TWA angle says we're tacking thru about 100 (no way), where compass & GPS say 70. TWA downwind might be right. Also put the boat on port and stbd at 90 TWA according to Triton, compass course change about 215.

 

A while back we were sailing upwind and TWS said 10-11 knots. Turned the corner, set the chute, and TWS jumped to 15-16 knots. Next day upwind 6 knots, turned the corner and TWS jumped to 10 knots. Checked two nearby weather buoys and downwind TWS appears to be correct.

 

B&G has not been able to help so far. I am wondering if having the wind instrument mounted atop the mast, not a flat surface, is part/all the issue? Looks like it's tipped forward about 10 degrees? With the way boats pitch and heel I wouldn't think it would be critical, but maybe I am mistaken?

 

I sail on another boat with Triton's, no issues with readings, so I assume there's something hinkey in my setup.

It sounds like a calibration issue, is it a B&G 508 Triton masthead? – I hope the B&G gurus can sort this out.

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DQOTD: TWA & TWS issue?

 

The boat we sail on has B&G Triton instruments. We like them but TWA and TWS readings are off, significant discrepancy upwind vs downwind. I don't expect perfection, but I have not seen anything like this with other instruments.

 

TWA angle says we're tacking thru about 100 (no way), where compass & GPS say 70. TWA downwind might be right. Also put the boat on port and stbd at 90 TWA according to Triton, compass course change about 215.

 

A while back we were sailing upwind and TWS said 10-11 knots. Turned the corner, set the chute, and TWS jumped to 15-16 knots. Next day upwind 6 knots, turned the corner and TWS jumped to 10 knots. Checked two nearby weather buoys and downwind TWS appears to be correct.

 

B&G has not been able to help so far. I am wondering if having the wind instrument mounted atop the mast, not a flat surface, is part/all the issue? Looks like it's tipped forward about 10 degrees? With the way boats pitch and heel I wouldn't think it would be critical, but maybe I am mistaken?

 

I sail on another boat with Triton's, no issues with readings, so I assume there's something hinkey in my setup.

It's called using just a Windex and SailComp.

Save your money

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Same setup and we dont have this problem.

Is your mast wand mounted on top of the sloping mast crane, or did you add a block/mount to level the mounting?

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J88 - One Design

 

So in the interest of building One Design Class participation, Deviation is planning on the following races for 2015 that have the potential for a OD start:

Quantum Key West Race Week -- January 18-23, 2015 (6 Boats)

Sperry Top-Sider Charleston Race Week -- April 16-19, 2015 (4 Boats)

Block Island Race Week XXVI -- June 21-26, 2015 (4 Boats)

CanAm Challenge (x-Youngstown Level Regatta) -- July 25-26, 2015 (8 Boats)

J88 [insert name here] Regatta at Indian Harbor Yacht Club ( name and web site TBA, apparently "they" are still in the planning stage ) -- October 10-11 [Columbus Day Weekend] (6 Boats?)

 

Looking forward to racing at Youngstown.

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I might be doing some racing on a J/88 soon, and would like to know what sportboat techniques from my Viper 640 would apply to a J/88.

 

Can you do blow-thru gybes?

 

Would you gybe all the time to catch puffs, or be more patient and conserve momentum?

 

How much do you sail deep verses heating it up?

 

Upwind, when overpowered, do you sail angle-of-heel?

 

How much do you pinch vs ease when overpowered upwind?

 

Thanks!

 

Jason

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> Can you do blow-thru gybes?

 

IDK, we sail where the conditions are generally light (not planing conditions) and the jib gets rolled-up to sail down wind. You can't do the skiff style gybe w/out a jib or it will blow through inside the fore triangle. I'm curios to hear what others have to say on this.

 

> Would you gybe all the time to catch puffs, or be more patient and conserve momentum?

 

With a well executed roll-gybe you can come out of the gybe without loosing speed. The j88 likes puffs.

 

> How much do you sail deep verses heating it up?

 

Sometimes it depends on your competition and what you are trying to accomplish. Generally higher is faster if you have to make a choice. If the boat feels slow it probably is slow. For our instruments 15-17 kts TWS is the minimum before planning is possible, depending on sea conditions.

 

> Upwind, when overpowered, do you sail angle-of-heel?

 

> How much do you pinch vs ease when overpowered upwind?

 

We haven't sailed in much over 25-30 kts. De-power with rig tune, plenty of Backstay, and use a J3, ease inhaulers out leads further back, etc. Too much pinching is slow, we try to keep the boat moving as fast as possible thru the waves while keeping the boat on its feet, try to keep less than 22 degrees of heel.

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CanAm Challenge - Youngstown, NY - July 25-26, 2015 (x-Youngstown Level Regatta)

 

Saturday we had 5 races and Sunday 2 – the YYC, RCR Yachts, and the RC put together regatta is one of the best. Well organized and awesome hospitality from everyone there.

 

There are some great fleet and individual pictures here: Tim Wilkes © 2015 CA15

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Thanks for posting the YS link. We're doing what we can to make this as welcoming and as well-attended an event as we can. Among the highlights:

  • 2 days of dedicated class racing
  • Modest event costs ($200 entry fee, no hoist/dockage/mooring fees)
  • Saturday dinner
  • 4 Ton hoist onsite
  • Early arrival/late departure options
  • Fall sailing on LIS!

Feel free to contact me or our Waterfront Director with any questions. Details in the NOR (can't seem to create the link here but it's in post 1742).

 

Jonathan

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Ice is only $3/bag, but after a $10 transient billing fee, 25 pct mandatory guest gratuity, tax, its around 18 bucks.

slip the launch driver a tenner and he'll take care of you.

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Looks like a well prepped J/88 is gearing up for the Singlehanded Transpac next year. Qualifier completed recently and proving competitive offshore. Should be fun to watch.

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Inhaulers, they're still new to us, and we found out we don't have them figured out at all I guess. We've sailed through some wonderfully close tacking angles in flat water and even some lumps with proportional winds (though evidently without really understanding how best to use inhaulers). But this past weekend with moderate wind diminishing to light with leftover waves, we could not point at all with any inhauler. The tacking angles were embarrassingly wide. So we'll have to try to recreate those conditions again, and figure it out. Dang it!

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question :

 

Did anyone create a solution to lower the mast without a crane , we want to lower the mast on the water for a bridge and get it up after the bridge. The creation need to be removabel , we will do that aprox. 6-8 time's a year .

 

Thanks in advance

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First pic under sail, only 3 races (with new boat) under out belts, lots & lots to learn (at least upwind)...

post-301-0-56252500-1438639801_thumb.jpg

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First pic under sail, only 3 races (with new boat) under out belts, lots & lots to learn (at least upwind)...

Unsure if north sails in the UK have a much different design to the north sails in North America but the UK boats run very little inhauler, usually no more than 6 inches. The boat I race on is the only non North sails boat but our sails have been designed to use much more inhauler, usually we inhaul to the middle of the deck organisers but as far as I know the North boats can't manage it. We can sail higher only when conditions permit which is flatter water and a moderate breeze

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BSP could maybe give us some insight on DEVIATION and how they handle their inhaulers. I know I never get past the deck organiser for optimal performance.

 

Can anyone show me the reef hook they got on their 88?

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Can anyone show me the reef hook they got on their 88?

I'll try to remember next weekend, but it looks much like the pics below (other than boom block on the J/88). I run mine just like the owners manual shows, and it works well (same as some other J's I've reefed).

post-301-0-99470900-1438698995_thumb.jpg

post-301-0-82452700-1438699008_thumb.jpg

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looks the same but seems more open.. doesnt work that well... im set up exactly like the manual.

 

ill try again!

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BSP could maybe give us some insight on DEVIATION and how they handle their inhaulers. I know I never get past the deck organiser for optimal performance.

 

Can anyone show me the reef hook they got on their 88?

Some Clews are cut too low and hit the cabin top: very frustrating trying to explain this geometry to a sailmaker.

 

We have never reefed. Probably because we don't sail distance races.

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question :

 

Did anyone create a solution to lower the mast without a crane , we want to lower the mast on the water for a bridge and get it up after the bridge. The creation need to be removabel , we will do that aprox. 6-8 time's a year .

 

Thanks in advance

insails,

I developed a method that worked very well on my elliott. if you're interested in seeing if it will work with the 88, pm me and I'll send you the doc I put together for the new owner.

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Is it possible to know who is preparing for the transpac?

 

i wanted to to a long distance race in the next year , and the one i was shooting for doesnt allow the 88.

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Looks like a well prepped J/88 is gearing up for the Singlehanded Transpac next year. Qualifier completed recently and proving competitive offshore. Should be fun to watch.

Is it possible to know who is preparing for the transpac?

 

i wanted to to a long distance race in the next year , and the one i was shooting for doesnt allow the 88.

I don't know who is planning the Singlehanded Transpac next year, but the name Clay Burkhalter first came to mind as a qualified skipper.

 

In 2007 Clay's sailed his (Rod Johnstone designed) 21' Mini Transat 'Acadia' from France to the Azores - after he broke his mast he sailed the last 500 miles to the finish line under jury rig flying a storm trysail. Later that year he finished 12th out of 84 on the 4000 mile singlehanded race from France to Brazil.

 

Clay, who is Rod Johnstone's nephew, was the co-skipper with Rod on J88 Jazz in the double-handed entry of the 215 NM 2015 STC Block Island Race.

 

If you need qualified testimony as to the suitability of the J88 for offshore distance racing, I think Rod or Clay would be a good place to start.

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Is it possible to know who is preparing for the transpac?

 

i wanted to to a long distance race in the next year , and the one i was shooting for doesnt allow the 88.

 

Boat name is Ventus, owner's name is Chris in the SF Bay area. Boat seems to be ready to go already with a successful qualifying 400nm offshore qualifying race that requires pretty much what is required to do SHTP.

 

What race is the J/88 excluded from and why? Length? Usually 28' is the cut-off if there is one and the J/88 meets that.

 

Bermuda 1-2 would be a great race for the J/88.

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question :

 

Did anyone create a solution to lower the mast without a crane , we want to lower the mast on the water for a bridge and get it up after the bridge. The creation need to be removabel , we will do that aprox. 6-8 time's a year .

 

Thanks in advance

insails,

I developed a method that worked very well on my elliott. if you're interested in seeing if it will work with the 88, pm me and I'll send you the doc I put together for the new owner.

 

This is not on a J88, however it appears to work will on this home built boat if the operator is paying attention.

 

This instructional video, simply called The Boat, shows all - (mast lowering part starts at 7:00)

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So we're up to J/88 hull #80 so far? I've seen references online to 76 (RCR?), 79 (Ocean Volt?) and 80 (Wings?). Anyone know of any later hull #?

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I haven't seen anything written, but I've seen a double tack line fitting on the sprit end AND a water faucet system (with the sink) pictured on newer J/88's that weren't available last year.

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Have there been any significant changes to the boats from the first 35 to now?

The most significant differences are between the boats built at CCFC and J Composites

 

Anyone seen anything on the electric one?

Was at the Newport Boat Show.

 

In addition to the electric motor it has a UK Titanium mainsail with thin-film solar panels laminated into the sail that will generate 400W at 94V DC. Reportedly this will be "enough power to run the boat's Oceanvolt SDC electric engine." The solar system is regulated by Victron. (Apparently UK Sailmakers France's Alain Janet holds a worldwide patent for solar sails.)

It also has a bimini with solar panels.

Will be on display at the and Annapolis boat show

update from Oceanvolt http://oceanvolt.com/jboats-j88/

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I'm not sure if the electric one is the new-standard or semi-custom: it appears to have multiple full length battens, an athwartships jib track in front of the mast (accompanied with tripping brackets) and an extra block on the foredeck.

post-66960-0-13280200-1443001400_thumb.jpg

post-66960-0-04400800-1443001420_thumb.jpg

post-66960-0-67738700-1443001443_thumb.jpg

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I'm not sure if the electric one is the new-standard or semi-custom: it appears to have multiple full length battens, an athwartships jib track in front of the mast (accompanied with tripping brackets) and an extra block on the foredeck.

How do you lose to a new boat straight out of the box last weekend????

Pathetic

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The most significant differences are between the boats built at CCFC and J Composites

 

What is the first choice? Is this a build quality or stiffness issue? Hull number UCF88 is CCFC I guess?

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The most significant differences are between the boats built at CCFC and J Composites.

What is the first choice? Is this a build quality or stiffness issue? Hull number UCF88 is CCFC I guess?

The j88 made at jcomposites.eu has fewer built-in cruising accommodations.

 

I don't know what UFC88 Is

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Excited to report I have a J88 under contract. One of (at least) 3 Crazy Eights.

Congrats, do you know what hull #?

 

UCF is CCFC http://www.uscgboating.org/content/manufacturers-identification-result2.php

 

Here's the J/Composites J/88 Spec http://www.jcomposites.eu/media/specifications_j_88__2015__019066800_1650_13012015.pdf

 

I don't speak Spanish, but from these pics there are quite a few differences http://www.nauticayyates.com/revistas/nyy20_soon/#116

- backstay, spin block attach points, (bow) pulpit, cockpit ports, no sink (optional), sprit control line exit point, no jib RF, aft berths, companionway steps, etc.

 

I like the US version, but then I'm not European...

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Hope I get lucky with other owners experience.

 

My question is simply where is the compass mounted on your J/88 and has that location allowed reasonably accurate performance (within 5 deg)?

 

Detail if needed: I've had fits with my (B&G ZG100) compass, and as a result all heading dependent calculated instrument data. I've done calibration circles several times, but depending on course readings still vary from dead on vs GPS to more than 20 deg off! Boatyard mounted our compass above the head in the corner between the bulkhead and hold tank face. Thought it might be metal parts on the head, or the mirror causing the deviation. But I unscrewed the hold tank inspection port yesterday and noticed there is a terminal strip on the bulkhead just inside - that also might be the problem. I am happy to move my compass, but I don't want to move it several times playing trial and error - hoped to learn the experiences of others.

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Hope I get lucky with other owners experience.

 

My question is simply where is the compass mounted on your J/88 and has that location allowed reasonably accurate performance (within 5 deg)?

 

Detail if needed: I've had fits with my (B&G ZG100) compass, and as a result all heading dependent calculated instrument data. I've done calibration circles several times, but depending on course readings still vary from dead on vs GPS to more than 20 deg off! Boatyard mounted our compass above the head in the corner between the bulkhead and hold tank face. Thought it might be metal parts on the head, or the mirror causing the deviation. But I unscrewed the hold tank inspection port yesterday and noticed there is a terminal strip on the bulkhead just inside - that also might be the problem. I am happy to move my compass, but I don't want to move it several times playing trial and error - hoped to learn the experiences of others.

We have our instrument compass mounted on the pole under the mast and the GPS (integrated compass) mounted on the transom. For the most part they seem to follow each other.

 

When selecting a location you need to avoid electric coils and certain metals that have magnetic relative permeability much greater than 1 effect magnetic flux. Austenitic stainless steel (304, 18-8, 316, A2, A4, etc.) should be OK as long as is hasn't been cold worked.

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I've heard from 2-3 owners so far, much appreciated. Since one provide a picture, thought I'd provide a picture of ours - one location you DON'T want to put a compass on a J/88 (compass heading vs GPS varies from 0 to 20° depending on course)...

post-301-0-08361200-1443879458_thumb.jpg

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Anyone here have experience using a string drop system for a j88?

From J/88 Rig Plan dated 1/28/14:

" [Class Spinnakers] May have rope(s) or patch(es) affixed to easier sail handling and retrieval"

 

We've been using a spinnaker retrieval line on Deviation since last January at Key West. It is a simple 1:1 string, no mechanical advantage. Thus, it is not like the "spinnaker string drop system" like they use on the TP52.

 

It's great when it's really windy.

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Great video, thanks for sharing!

 

We had the same conditions just a few weeks ago, but I did not set up the GoPro (still kicking myself). It was a boatspeed PB for us (pic below), though I know others have already gone quite a bit faster.

 

I was curious what the set up is on your boom, sailcover? Unlike any other J/88 boom I've seen.

post-301-0-79151000-1444142917_thumb.jpg

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Glad you enjoyed the video , i edited out the takedown sequence since it was a HUGE fuckup from everyone (and me). Spinnaker is en route to Northsails to get fixed.

 

The cover is a lazy jack made locally. Easy for the crew , easy when going out with the family.

 

 

 

Bill , can i see a picture of the retrieval system? How does it work? just a rope dandling? I might get the a3 modified .

 

thanks!

post-302-0-20105600-1444145830_thumb.jpg

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I have a question for folks who are doing distance racing on their 88s... are you sailing with roller furling and going bareheaded during sail changes, or do you have double slots in your foil and are you dropping the head swivel so you can do peels (assuming this is possible)?

 

And I suppose I should add... is it even an option to have two jib halyards?

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I have a question for folks who are doing distance racing on their 88s... are you sailing with roller furling and going bareheaded during sail changes, or do you have double slots in your foil and are you dropping the head swivel so you can do peels (assuming this is possible)?

 

And I suppose I should add... is it even an option to have two jib halyards?

We had two spin halyards and tack lines, but we'd have to go bareheaded for a jib change. Since there are no overlapping headsails, and only two headsails (unlike most older race boats), the OD light-medium jib and OD heavy jib aren't radically different in size**, not as great need to change IME. My N/S light-med is good to at least 22 kts TWS, unfortunately it's been exposed to 27 kt gusts.

 

** heavy jib LP is only 5-8% less than light-medium, but FWIW I've been told the SA is about 20% different due to shorter hoist/leech on the heavy.

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I have a question for folks who are doing distance racing on their 88s... are you sailing with roller furling and going bareheaded during sail changes, or do you have double slots in your foil and are you dropping the head swivel so you can do peels (assuming this is possible)?

 

And I suppose I should add... is it even an option to have two jib halyards?

We had two spin halyards and tack lines, but we'd have to go bareheaded for a jib change. Since there are no overlapping headsails, and only two headsails (unlike most older race boats), the OD light-medium jib and OD heavy jib aren't radically different in size**, not as great need to change IME. My N/S light-med is good to at least 22 kts TWS, unfortunately it's been exposed to 27 kt gusts.

 

** heavy jib LP is only 5-8% less than light-medium, but FWIW I've been told the SA is about 20% different due to shorter hoist/leech on the heavy.

 

 

Have any 88s been delivered with two jib sheaves? Is it even an option?

 

And with only a two jib inventory, what do you do if you're on the Mac and its blowing 30? Just go with a reefed main and hope it won't last long?

 

Thanks for the reply, MP. Did you end up getting an 88, btw? I've been scanning this thread the last few days as I try to learn more about the boat and it seems like you are its sort of unofficial mascot :)

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I have a question for folks who are doing distance racing on their 88s... are you sailing with roller furling and going bareheaded during sail changes, or do you have double slots in your foil and are you dropping the head swivel so you can do peels (assuming this is possible)?

 

And I suppose I should add... is it even an option to have two jib halyards?

 

We had two spin halyards and tack lines, but we'd have to go bareheaded for a jib change. Since there are no overlapping headsails, and only two headsails (unlike most older race boats), the OD light-medium jib and OD heavy jib aren't radically different in size**, not as great need to change IME. My N/S light-med is good to at least 22 kts TWS, unfortunately it's been exposed to 27 kt gusts.

 

** heavy jib LP is only 5-8% less than light-medium, but FWIW I've been told the SA is about 20% different due to shorter hoist/leech on the heavy.

Have any 88s been delivered with two jib sheaves? Is it even an option?

 

And with only a two jib inventory, what do you do if you're on the Mac and its blowing 30? Just go with a reefed main and hope it won't last long?

 

Thanks for the reply, MP. Did you end up getting an 88, btw? I've been scanning this thread the last few days as I try to learn more about the boat and it seems like you are its sort of unofficial mascot :)

Not an official option, but we have two spin sheaves and two stbd mast exit slots, so I suspect anything reasonable is possible. Just talk to your J/Boats dealer to start, they will sort it out with Hall or give you a contact.

 

Mascot? That's funny. I started the thread, before the boat was even announced (lucky/educated guess on nomenclature), and I've learned a lot from the many generous contributors, so I feel somewhat responsible. I do sail on one of the four J/88's in Chicagoland, hopefully many more will appear near us. The J/88 is a great, small Mac boat http://www.jboats.com/images/stories/pdf/J88_ChicagoMac.pdf

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I have a question for folks who are doing distance racing on their 88s... are you sailing with roller furling and going bareheaded during sail changes, or do you have double slots in your foil and are you dropping the head swivel so you can do peels (assuming this is possible)?

 

And I suppose I should add... is it even an option to have two jib halyards?

- I am not aware of a two-jib halyard option.

- The headfoil has two slots ...

- Even if you were to get two jib halyard sheaves, the Halyard Swivel cannot be used if you want to use two slots.

- If you remove the Feeder, you can drop the Halyard Swivel below the Feeder a little ways (the Bottom Foil section of the headfoil is different than all the other Foil sections and the Halyard Swivel will jam if you try to push it too far down.)

 

We do bareheaded headsail changes.

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Great Video, hope we wil get those conditions this winter in the Netherlands... made me wish i was sailing now .. B)

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Not an official option, but we have two spin sheaves and two stbd mast exit slots, so I suspect anything reasonable is possible. Just talk to your J/Boats dealer to start, they will sort it out with Hall or give you a contact.

Mascot? That's funny. I started the thread, before the boat was even announced (lucky/educated guess on nomenclature), and I've learned a lot from the many generous contributors, so I feel somewhat responsible. I do sail on one of the four J/88's in Chicagoland, hopefully many more will appear near us. The J/88 is a great, small Mac boat http://www.jboats.com/images/stories/pdf/J88_ChicagoMac.pdf

 

 

Sorry MP, perhaps instigator or inspiration might have been a better word than mascot :) Thanks for the info. Not in the market right at the moment but very intrigued. I'm in Chicago too. I'll PM you, maybe there's a chance I can hitch a ride one day next season.

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I have a question for folks who are doing distance racing on their 88s... are you sailing with roller furling and going bareheaded during sail changes, or do you have double slots in your foil and are you dropping the head swivel so you can do peels (assuming this is possible)?

 

And I suppose I should add... is it even an option to have two jib halyards?

- I am not aware of a two-jib halyard option.

- The headfoil has two slots ...

- Even if you were to get two jib halyard sheaves, the Halyard Swivel cannot be used if you want to use two slots.

- If you remove the Feeder, you can drop the Halyard Swivel below the Feeder a little ways (the Bottom Foil section of the headfoil is different than all the other Foil sections and the Halyard Swivel will jam if you try to push it too far down.)

 

We do bareheaded headsail changes.

 

Yes, this is what I've done on other cruiser/racers or ODs with furlers on distance races, just dropped the head swivel below the feeder.

 

Maybe I'm over thinking it - just hating the idea of multiple bare-headed sail changes in transitional conditions. Also, just enjoying the day dreaming about one day owning an 88 and what I would do with it :)

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The one i got with my 88 is incredible. I would get it if i was you.

 

Call triad and buy directly from them.

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I need a J88 cradle. Is it best to get it from J Boats or have it built locally?

The one i got with my 88 is incredible. I would get it if i was you.

Call triad and buy directly from them.

Are we talking cradles or trailers? I would buy (and have) a Triad trailer, but cradles are not rocket science - I would have a good one built locally, especially since your in Annapolis, just ask around for reputable suppliers. You might even find a good used cradle the right size at one of the local yards, there are usually some orphan cradles at big yards. The J/88 is sail is on an orphan J/92 cradle that someone else bought at full new price...best of luck.

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Yes cradle not a trailer. I will check with Jabins and see if they have one or one of the vendors can build one.

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has anny one classrulles of the J88 availabel, we are the only J88 in the Netherlands , but are thinking to meet with some other J88 next summer and we would like to know if our sails match with other J88's in Europe /Great Britain.

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They are the most current rules. They actually invalidate my comment about a 2:1 halyard seeing as neither the mast, bowsprit or boom can be modified. As long as your sails are within the size range then you're ok. Out of interest what is your IRC handicap? Our national championships are 9th - 11th of June.

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Thanks ,

 

 

Are those date's for the U.K. ? then i will talk with the crew.

 

Irc raiting

Orc raiting J88

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Right now I am slotted for hull 85 but I am trying to wiggle my way to hull 88. December start, Feb ship.

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Right now I am slotted for hull 85 but I am trying to wiggle my way to hull 88. December start, Feb ship.

Congrats!

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Thanks ,

 

 

Are those date's for the U.K. ? then i will talk with the crew.

 

Yeah they are the dates for the Jcup regatta incorporating our nationals. Also around that time is the round the island race and the Royal southern yacht club host a regatta once a month that provides good practice. I have noticed that your sails are quite a bit smaller than the class maximum as well. Most of our boats rate between 1.033 and 1.037. If you contact Key Yachting Ltd they can put you in touch with our class chairman and class secretary. Our class chairman is on this forum somewhere under the name I think ESJR88.

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Hi Insails and greetings from the UK J88 fleet. We have 8 boats now and the fleet is building nicely, mostly racing from Hamble in the Solent. The previous post was right - for my sins I am Class Sec and we have a Class Chairman too. Key Yachting can get you our contact details.

We had a good year this year with 8 boats at our Nationals held at the Island Sailing Club, Cowes. Next year the Nationals are 9-11th June at J Cup held at Royal Southern YC in the Hamble. The class will plan at least one event each month from March to October with the highlights being the Nationals, Round the Island 2nd July and Cowes Week 6-13 Aug. We are aiming to get the 2016 programme out in the next few weeks.

 

Let me know if you have an easier way to get in touch directly. We are happy to help and would be great if you can join us for some one-design racing next season.

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Thanks,

 

We are looking if we can bring the boat to the UK , we have the winter to think and make a plan. The whole crew like the idea . keep me informed , i wil send mail to key yachting .

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Some nice pics from the New England Championship here:

www.maryalicefisher.com/clientele/sailing/J88-Championship-Indian-Harbor/

 

Jonathan

 

are most using roller battens on jibs ?
Interesting question, glad you asked, I wouldn't have noticed otherwise. It does appear there were more jibs with roller battens than vertical.

 

We have long (hard) vertical battens, with North's IMO unnecessarily fiddly batten loading design, which makes sail changes unnecessarily difficult. I probably won't buy a headsail vertical battens again...

 

http://www.northsails.dk/RADUPLOADS/Denmark/ENG%20-%203Di%20Batten%20Loading%20Instruction_HiRes.pdf

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