• Announcements

    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

lela51

Anti fouling for prop and shaft?

32 posts in this topic

Does anyone have a recommendation for an anti fouling product for the shaft and wheel. I see some using bottom paint other using a greasy looking translucent coating. Any suggestions appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just asked a boatyard buddy the same thing, my prop and shaft were covered with barnacles. He said baby rash cream works the best and you can apply it while it's in the water as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Best options (forget about the baby's ass cream and all the other bullshit homespun remedies):

 

Expensive- Prop Speed. Difficult to apply, doesn't last a particularly long time but works great.

 

http://www.propspeedusa.com/

 

Cheap- Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier. Easy to apply, lasts a long time, works fairly well.

 

http://www.pettitpai...gory.asp?id=279

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rustoleum Galvanizing Compound

 

PRCgsCldSpL.jpg

 

I have used it for two years, negligible growth on the prop and shaft.

 

Just curious, how does it perform as an anti foulant? It doesn't seem to contain any recognizable anti fouling material...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Expensive- Prop Speed. Difficult to apply, doesn't last a particularly long time but works great.

 

http://www.propspeedusa.com/

 

lasts 12 months IF applied according to instructions (not sparingly) and is NOT scrubbed with abrasive pads

 

how expensive depends on if the yard is using the opportunity to rip you off

 

i.e. a 'kit' can do maybe 8-10 typically sized saildrive props but you are NEVER charged an 1/8th of a 'kit'

 

Also when applied by the yard bozo who is not paid a rate equivalent to applying any 'brainage' or care you will get barnacles within months

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rustoleum Galvanizing Compound

 

PRCgsCldSpL.jpg

 

I have used it for two years, negligible growth on the prop and shaft.

 

Just curious, how does it perform as an anti foulant? It doesn't seem to contain any recognizable anti fouling material...

Just a slight amount of slim, never a barnacle to be seen. The 'anti-foul' is the zinc and nickel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Best options (forget about the baby's ass cream and all the other bullshit homespun remedies):

 

Expensive- Prop Speed. Difficult to apply, doesn't last a particularly long time but works great.

 

http://www.propspeedusa.com/

 

Cheap- Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier. Easy to apply, lasts a long time, works fairly well.

 

http://www.pettitpai...gory.asp?id=279

 

 

Well, look at this, a new application for props and shafts, lanolin based (like that bullshit homespun remedy)

 

http://www.forespar.com/products/lanocote-prop-bottom.shtml

 

I think I'll pass on the expensive stuff and try the baby's ass cream, looks like it'll probably work, and like I said, you can apply it in the water as well. Worse case scenario is I end up with the same growth I had this year, which was OK since I did the bottom bi-weekly, just got barnacles the last month when I didn't do it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most folks around here use anhydrous lanoline, like lanocote but at supermarket or drugstore prices.

You want the thick greasy stuff, not the thin nappy one.

 

Generally heat the prop and then put it on, bonds better.

I have a Volvo seal, so I just put it on and flow it with a heat gun.

 

Must give the Rustoleum a go, can't get Pettit around here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just asked a boatyard buddy the same thing, my prop and shaft were covered with barnacles. He said baby rash cream works the best and you can apply it while it's in the water as well.

 

I tried the "baby-rash cream" and found it lasts about 1 week, at least here in Narragansett Bay. I still have a mostly full tub of it, free to anybody with a baby (probably works better on that bottom).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

have used propspeed for two years on sailing boat, so props only get relatively short term use, therefore antifouling has to work hard. works brilliantly. lasted 12 months each time. prob wd have lasted longer but re-do at annual haul-out anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, look at this, a new application for props and shafts, lanolin based (like that bullshit homespun remedy)

 

http://www.forespar....op-bottom.shtml

 

...looks like it'll probably work...

 

Based on what- the manufacturer's claims? Hey, I've got a bridge to sell you, too. :rolleyes:

 

No, seriously, I'm interested in how this product performs. Since it can be applied underwater, it could turn out to be a little revenue generator for hull cleaners such as myself. Unfortunately, I missed the product demo Forespar did at a local West Marine a few months ago. I may just buy a tub of it and do some unofficial product testing on my own here in the Bay Area. if I do, I'll be sure to post the results.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just ordered a tub of the Lanocote Prop & Bottom goop. Plan to begin using it on selected sail and powerboats this month. Will report back with results and pix.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just ordered a tub of the Lanocote Prop & Bottom goop. Plan to begin using it on selected sail and powerboats this month. Will report back with results and pix.

 

Will you just be trying it in the Bay? Do you think there'd be a difference between the cold water there and warmer water down toward Mexico?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just ordered a tub of the Lanocote Prop & Bottom goop. Plan to begin using it on selected sail and powerboats this month. Will report back with results and pix.

 

Will you just be trying it in the Bay? Do you think there'd be a difference between the cold water there and warmer water down toward Mexico?

 

 

Yes, I will only be using it in San Francisco Bay- more specifically, the East Bay Area. The manufacturer goes to some lengths on their web site to point out that the product's effectiveness will vary depending upon several factors, among them water temperature and fouling conditions. I consider the Bay to have moderate-to-high fouling. So judge my results based on that. YMMV.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wjat do you think the water temperature is in that area of the Bay in the summer? ~55 degrees?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wjat do you think the water temperature is in that area of the Bay in the summer? ~55 degrees?

 

 

65+

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wjat do you think the water temperature is in that area of the Bay in the summer? ~55 degrees?

 

 

65+

 

+1

It will get over 70 in the Estuary.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most folks around here use anhydrous lanoline, like lanocote but at supermarket or drugstore prices.

You want the thick greasy stuff, not the thin nappy one.

 

Generally heat the prop and then put it on, bonds better.

I have a Volvo seal, so I just put it on and flow it with a heat gun.

 

Must give the Rustoleum a go, can't get Pettit around here.

 

I use Lanicote. Oddly enought the best results I had were when I applied it IN the water.

I don't know the reason just that it seemed to work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried some of the Forespar stuff recently on my strut, prop and shaft. Water temp was 82 degrees, and I usually get barnacles and growth pretty quickly. It was a bit tricky to apply underwater, tended to glob off in big spheres as you were trying to apply, but eventually I got it on. Results were pretty good in that it stopped the hard core stuff - barnacles - from growing but there was a little fuzz. Still, it was easy to clean the prop up. I am racing so I get it all clean each race. I will apply it again next time I clean the prop and see how it does now that the water temp has dropped to 72 and lower for the winter. I plan to apply it when I haul the boat next, which will be soon, unless I make the leap of faith and go for Rustoleum trick..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Expensive- Prop Speed. Difficult to apply, doesn't last a particularly long time but works great.

 

http://www.propspeedusa.com/

 

lasts 12 months IF applied according to instructions (not sparingly) and is NOT scrubbed with abrasive pads

 

how expensive depends on if the yard is using the opportunity to rip you off

 

i.e. a 'kit' can do maybe 8-10 typically sized saildrive props but you are NEVER charged an 1/8th of a 'kit'

 

Also when applied by the yard bozo who is not paid a rate equivalent to applying any 'brainage' or care you will get barnacles within months

 

 

 

 

I'm a "yard bozo" I guess. I've actually applied the stuff a thousand times and get fantastic results. I'd rip you off too Gybe-set if you act like this around me. Some people make themselves a target, no?

 

Anyway,...

 

It's expensive to buy and labour intensive to apply. Below is a cut & paste from (yet) another running gear forum, where I broke down the time & materials for those of you who feel the yard is taking an opportunity to rip you off.

 

A two blade saildrive prop would be $200 in my yard.

 

Have a read how it gets applied GS...educate yourself. It's not just a tin of stuff you "paint" on & job done.

 

_________________________________________

 

We base our propspeed charges on $100 per blade.

 

A quick break down of our actual propspeed application costing on say a 40' game boat with 2 x 4 blade propellers...

 

1 x kit propspeed = $390 incl freight. If you're doing it properly, you would use just about all of the kit.

1 x 3M purple grinding disc $12

1 x PPE (leather gloves, respirators, eye protection, ear muffs, grinder) let's say proportion of expenditure for this job = $5

2 x disposable brushes = $2.20

1 x Acetone / thinner & clean rags for prep = $2

 

Total materials = +-$410

 

Labour @ $85/hr

 

Set up tools & grind both 4-blade props bare = 1 hr (remember not a sailing yacht, so they're bent over and crouched under the boat wielding a grinder with foggy safety goggles & not standing up working at a comfortable height like on sail boats.)

 

Mix the etch = 20 minutes minimum. THIS is one of the keys to successful application, getting ALL the solid off the bottom of the can and back into solution. It takes ages if done properly. If you want good results, do not skimp on this step!)

 

Apply etch x 2 brush coats. Each prop 15 minutes per coat, going straight from one prop to the other = 1 hr. (Again in that horrible position under the boat, it eats up time.)

 

Must wait for the etch to "set up" before silicone application = +-15 min

 

Apply silicone top coat. It's certainly not difficult. It's kinda like varnishing, you have to go slow to "float" the silicone on and get an even coat... keep going back looking for holidays, brushing in runs... = 20 min/prop = 40min

 

Clean up all silicone dust from grinding = 10min

 

Total labour = 3.4hrs lets be generous and call it 3 hrs @ 85 = $255

 

$410 + 255 = $665 Material & labour

 

$800 - 665 = $135 profit

 

 

Seriously expensive, lots of labour & materials and a small profit for the business. We ain't getti'n rich on Propspeed. But if you find people who'll sell the dregs of a tin to do a small yacht prop & do it yourself, you'll save plenty off your yard bill, but when isn't that the case?

 

One last thing, if you want to shorten the life of this stuff, allow your hull cleaner to wipe it. Great for us... IMO it shouldn't be touched even with a soft cloth or sponge. If you're getting barnies, it was put on wrong(holidays) or wiped by a diver.

________________________________________________________________________

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

from one bozo to another

 

how f#%^ many do you think i've done, particularly when it became apparent that mine were the ones coming up clean 12 months later, then the next 12, then the .....

 

reckon you are making my point, $800 for 8 (LARGE) prop blades, racing saildrive 2bl props being about the surface area of your hands

 

p.s. have you used it on those underwater LED poser lights the fizzboats are using? just top coat works well

also done shafts(of course) struts, brackets rudders & trim tabs, up in size to v high powered Navy mine clearance vessels(spraying the etch ... only time 'even' appearing coverage)

 

" One last thing, if you want to shorten the life of this stuff, allow your hull cleaner to wipe it. Great for us "

love it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

from one bozo to another

 

how f#%^ many do you think i've done, particularly when it became apparent that mine were the ones coming up clean 12 months later, then the next 12, then the .....

 

reckon you are making my point, $800 for 8 (LARGE) prop blades, racing saildrive 2bl props being about the surface area of your hands

 

p.s. have you used it on those underwater LED poser lights the fizzboats are using? just top coat works well

also done shafts(of course) struts, brackets rudders & trim tabs, up in size to v high powered Navy mine clearance vessels(spraying the etch ... only time 'even' appearing coverage)

 

" One last thing, if you want to shorten the life of this stuff, allow your hull cleaner to wipe it. Great for us "

love it

 

Yeah works well on underwater lights. We've started using it on transducer surfaces too.

 

Probably not so interesting for sailors with small inefficient props. But an interesting thing I noticed recently; I was looking after a largish trawler style boat. Single screw with antifouled prop, we'd burn 49L/hr at 10 knots after dry docking. When we next went to the yard I had the prop done in Propspeed, we now cruise at 10 knots using 40L/hr. The fuel efficiencies are pretty real in my observations.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rustoleum Galvanizing Compound

 

PRCgsCldSpL.jpg

 

I have used it for two years, negligible growth on the prop and shaft.

 

Just curious, how does it perform as an anti foulant? It doesn't seem to contain any recognizable anti fouling material...

Just a slight amount of slim, never a barnacle to be seen. The 'anti-foul' is the zinc and nickel.

+1

 

buddy put me on to this in the spring.

 

he thinks rustoleum is relabeled by petit based on MSDs.

 

$6 is Chump change and available at home depot.

used on strut and prop with good success.

no galvanic corrosion seen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rustoleum Galvanizing Compound

 

PRCgsCldSpL.jpg

 

I have used it for two years, negligible growth on the prop and shaft.

 

Just curious, how does it perform as an anti foulant? It doesn't seem to contain any recognizable anti fouling material...

Just a slight amount of slim, never a barnacle to be seen. The 'anti-foul' is the zinc and nickel.

+1

 

buddy put me on to this in the spring.

 

he thinks rustoleum is relabeled by petit based on MSDs.

 

$6 is Chump change and available at home depot.

used on strut and prop with good success.

no galvanic corrosion seen.

 

Have tried the Pettit Zinc and it does okay in WLIS, but not great. Better than nothing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Boat was hauled for the season after my experimental treatment of Lubriseal (a petrolatum blend used for ground glass joints in chemistry glassware). Barnacles galore... not effective compared to prior season. Boat is kept on a mooring in LIS. Think I'll use the Rustoleum next season.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Coat the prop and shaft with Bag Balm.Smear it on in a thin layer like grease.Barnacles and marine growth can't stick. When you haul out wipe off the old Bag Balm and replace with a fresh layer yearly. Learned this trick from an old timer in Port Townsend years ago. The base ingredient of Bag Balm is anhydrous lanolin mixed with petrolatum.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Bag-Balm%C2%AE-Skin-Ointment-10oz/dp/B0014CI4X8/ref=sr_1_fed1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1353156977&sr=8-1&keywords=balm+bag

 

http://www.amazon.com/Bag-Balm-BAG-BALM-oz/dp/B0018SBP4S/ref=sr_1_fed1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1353156977&sr=8-2&keywords=balm+bag

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You might want to think about the prep before you put anything on. My experience with a bronze 15" 2 blade max prop on a saildrive suggests the polishing of the bronze with 600 grit or finer before you put on anything is the most significant factor. Nasty's don't stay where they can't hang on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites