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      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

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Bryanjb

Battcars, Battslides

6 posts in this topic

So it's winter, the boats out and it's time to top up the repair kit.

 

We use the old style C-size Battcars and Battslides. The main has 6 full length battens with intermediate luff cars in between. All cars are ball bearing using 3/8" Derlin balls, no sliders. The Battcars use the "hat" bearing; shorter battens ride on a Battcar with 1/2" (10mm) hats, longer battens use a 5/8" (12mm) hats. The Schaefer elbows diameters are 3/8" for the shorter battens and 1/2" for the langer battens.

 

My questions are:

1) What plastic does Harken use for the "hat sections"?

2) Schaefer no longer makes the "elbows". Harken makes an elbow but it is only 10mm, which is fine for the shorter battens but not large enough for the longer battens that use a 12 mm elbow. Anyone know where to get these?

3) The new design elbow is screwed into the Battslide, whereas the old design is pinned. Will there be interference with the luffrope changing to the new elbow?

4) Any reason to move up to Torlon balls for the cars?

 

Sorry to post a dull and techinical request but I'll add tits if required.

 

if battcars.jpg

HC7537.jpg

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What do you mean IF....?

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Did you ever get the info you needed? I would post this in the Gear forum. I recently talked to Harken directly about a similar issue for the same vintage cars, but smaller, so don't have the same exact problem. I just asked for technical support. I've been told the new Torlon ball bearings are an expensive item. They sell a loading tool but I've never used one. I assume you know they are not captive and will go everywhere if you don't have the little plastic thingy to trap them in the car when you pull them off the track. The person I talked to was knowledgeable and answered all my questions providing part numbers where needed. I'd give them a call. The US number is 1 (262) 691-3320. They are in Wisconsin / CST.

 

And the new captive ball cars won't work on the old track but you probably know that already. The sliders will though.

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Not sure what you mean by the "hat" bearing - are you talking about the flanged sleeve bearing that takes the pin or bolt on the car? That is going to be Delrin or PE, readily available in a variety of sizes and easily made to any size.

 

Torlon is a lot stronger and stiffer than Delrin, also seems to be more UV resistant. However if the Delrin balls have held up without flattening or other complaint, the extra strength may do no good.

 

If you want to replace the balls with Torlon, I recommend buying them from McMaster, they will be waaayyy cheaper than Harken. 3/8 Torlon are about $10 for 15 balls (v.s. $15 for 100 if you want Delrin) - check that against Harken.

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So anyway, this car style (the end cap retained bearing) has been retired and new replacement cars are not available, components; plastic end caps, balls and a 10 mm stud are available. We use the 10 and 12 mm stud with the "elbow" joint rather then the new toggle design. Replacement will require new track and cars.

 

We are still undecided which way to go but building the new main in a couple years will force our hand.

 

I'm suprised Harken has orphaned these cars. You would think they would build the new toggle designs on the old cars thus allowing those needing replacements an option.

 

We use MCMaster Carr for some items, very handy.

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Not sure what you mean by the "hat" bearing - are you talking about the flanged sleeve bearing that takes the pin or bolt on the car? That is going to be Delrin or PE, readily available in a variety of sizes and easily made to any size.

 

Torlon is a lot stronger and stiffer than Delrin, also seems to be more UV resistant. However if the Delrin balls have held up without flattening or other complaint, the extra strength may do no good.

 

If you want to replace the balls with Torlon, I recommend buying them from McMaster, they will be waaayyy cheaper than Harken. 3/8 Torlon are about $10 for 15 balls (v.s. $15 for 100 if you want Delrin) - check that against Harken.

 

Good to know DDW. Thanks.

 

Anyone know the part number for the old headboard car assembly, Series A? Or even better, where one might be for sale? I posted this in Gear too. TIA http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=141643

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