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Call Me Boomvang

Deck restoration advise

19 posts in this topic

I have a vinylester and pebble grain gelcoat nonskid. It has been pained before by prior owner with unknown paint but my guess would be interlux one part epoxy. After 25 years of hardware moves and a cople core issues, it looks like a garbage scow. I am refinishing the whole deck and pulling down a sand nonskid. I have sanded about half way down the pebble grain and I am cutting into the uncolored vinyl ester in spots and thinking it might be smart to stop now and fair up. I would like to spray with a two part epoxy but the suspected one part paint has me worried about lifting. I have a media blaster borrowed that I can use.

 

I would just like advise on what people think about the best route for a successful job. Keep sanding or fair up? Products? One part or two part? Interlux or awlgrip? Kiwigrip is out by the way. This might mean one part epoxy for low risk success if everyone chimes in that I will never get the paint off properly. Thanks.

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Id keep sanding and or hit it with the borrowed media blaster to get the old paint off. U can use tape to limit the sanded section when putting down the binder coat for the new sand.

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Thanks Vegas. The real issue is the paint already on the deck. I had a long talk with a tech at Jamestown distributors today and decided I will definitely need to blast off old paint, fairing will work to fill the valleys and I will roll and tip the two part after discussion the toxic and lethal lung hardening effects of airborne two part paints. Not interested in buying a pressurized suit

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Refinished deck on a Niagara 26 in 2003. Had some mystery paint on it. We sanded off all the loose paint and applied teh two part primer designed for use with Interlux Interthane Plus (at the time - now perfection). The support people at Interlux told me the primer would protect the underlaying mystery paint from the harshness of the two part paint. The next 4 seasons we had the boat there were no problems.

 

I would suggest contacting Interlux tech support. The number is sopmewhere on the www.yachtpaint.com site. They have been fabulous in the past. I would further suggest you tell them you are applying Interlux Perfection to get the best support

 

Mike

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Thanks Vegas. The real issue is the paint already on the deck. I had a long talk with a tech at Jamestown distributors today and decided I will definitely need to blast off old paint, fairing will work to fill the valleys and I will roll and tip the two part after discussion the toxic and lethal lung hardening effects of airborne two part paints. Not interested in buying a pressurized suit

 

Check out the non-skid paint system employed in Article II - I can tell first hand that the even if that boat is upside down, you would still stick to the deck - its is aggressive !

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Just professional curiosity, but why have you eliminated KiwiGrip from consideration? No need to remove any old coatings that are well attached to the underlying substrate. Water-based acrylics are notorious for sticking to just about everything! From your description you've already overprepped for KiwiGrip. Cheers, Willy.

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Just professional curiosity, but why have you eliminated KiwiGrip from consideration? No need to remove any old coatings that are well attached to the underlying substrate. Water-based acrylics are notorious for sticking to just about everything! From your description you've already overprepped for KiwiGrip. Cheers, Willy.

 

Make that two of us that are curious on your decision

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Just professional curiosity, but why have you eliminated KiwiGrip from consideration? No need to remove any old coatings that are well attached to the underlying substrate. Water-based acrylics are notorious for sticking to just about everything! From your description you've already overprepped for KiwiGrip. Cheers, Willy.

 

I am dubious that I can achieve a decent uniform texture and thickness and I would need to paint the other areas with something. KG just did not seem to have a system.

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Hi Boomerang - You're right that we don't have a "system" of products to address both your glossy surfaces and your non-skid. KiwiGrip is suitable only for your non-skid while you'd be very happy with a number of linear polyurethane top-coats for your glossies. The contrast between the high gloss top-coat an KiwiGrip is stunning. I'm confident that you could achieve a very uniform texture as long as you practice a bit ahead of project day and avoid conditions where the KiwiGrip dries too quickly. Stay under 70F with humidity between 50% and 90% and you'll be proud of your result. Cheers, /willy

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Willie the name is boomvang not boomerang. I will think about it again. Unknowns about the product and lack of a support network make me worried about a "as seen on tv" product.

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Willie the name is boomvang not boomerang. I will think about it again. Unknowns about the product and lack of a support network make me worried about a "as seen on tv" product.

 

Hi Boomerang,

 

I think if you search these forums, you'll find that KiwiGrip is highly recommended by a lot of DIY'ers.

 

EDIT: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=kiwigrip+site%3Aforums.sailinganarchy.com

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Willie the name is boomvang not boomerang. I will think about it again. Unknowns about the product and lack of a support network make me worried about a "as seen on tv" product.

 

Hi Boomerang, Kicking strap :D

 

I think if you search these forums, you'll find that KiwiGrip is highly recommended by a lot of DIY'ers.

 

EDIT: http://lmgtfy.com/?q...linganarchy.com

Fixed it for ya

 

Boomvang, there's a lot of discussion in Gear Anarchy, Cruising Anarchy and Fixit on KiwiGrip projects, It's easy to apply. It's worth checking out before you decide.

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My apologies, Boomvang. My lis-dexia got the better of me.... again. Have a safe and happy Thanksgiving and holiday season! Willy

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Different problem, but definately Deck restoration advice. iIhave friends about to sell their Swedish built by Najah sloop. The teak laid deck always caused them a lot of work and the thoughts of that seem to scare off the vast majority of people who look at it. Does anyone have solutions to how best to cover it with something leak proof and low maintenance.

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snip>>> . After 25 years of hardware moves and a couple core issues, it looks like a garbage scow. I am refinishing the whole deck and ,snip>>

I would just like advise on what people think about the best route for a successful job. <snip> Thanks.

 

step one:

 

Very carefully remove the bow pulpit

 

Step two:

 

Pull the boat out from under that bow pulpit.

 

Step three

 

carefuly inspect the bow pulpit and if it is not in great shape buy a new one

 

step four

 

Pull a new boat under the bow pulpit and, after camphering the drilled holes and liberally applying caulk, fasten it in place.

 

VOILA!!!

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Just to update on progress. Have gotten three techs from interlux and all agree if it is one part paint it will lift and likely cause weak spots in the bond. Some disagreement from them on the filling properties of primer filler but the guy I trusted said the unthickened primer will dry about half as thick as the wet coat. Basically look at the solids percent on the can. If fifty percent solid, half as thick when dry. Duh! So based on this, I have nearly finished sanding away all the old paint and pebble away. This took about 60 manhours with mostly 40 grit on orbitals. The extra tool that kept that time from being much larger was a Milwaukee angle grinder with a 6" orbital attachment that was by far the most effective tool. Sadly, Milwaukee no longer makes this attachment and neither does anyone else that I can find. I felt using the orbital was the safest method to avoid damage by the rookie sanders. I would probably try for air tools if I had to do this again to get the rpms. Now finishing paint removal with chem stripper in the nooks and crannies and detail sanding with a triangle pad multitool. Hoping to get it all off. At this point I will make the decision whether a two part paint can be applied. Hoping the fairing will go pretty fast but still expect it to be a twice around job...fair, sand, fair, sand.

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