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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

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bringuet

Who is planning on buying Pana Toughpad FZ-G1?

23 posts in this topic

Have been asked if I want to buy one for $2049.

Would you buy one for that price?

Why/why not?

 

Cheers

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That was about dealer cost on the Toughbook CF07's when they were new so that looks like a bargain! It looks like Expedition would play nicely on it, and you could set up a Digital Yacht WiFi adaptor to broadcast your instrument data.

 

Looks really sweet actually!

 

Cheers,

Rob

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Rob, yes it's as attractive as the cf-u1I bought and realized it wasn't up to the job.

What I was really looking for was some opinion on the above-deck standalone nav comp vs a below-deck server and above-deck tablet setup.

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That kind of depends on the boat and the budget. In a perfect world with this tablet in my quill I'd put my instrument data on WiFi so I could have it anywhere on the boat. Once the data is airborn you could have a PC at the nav station and a tablet on deck.

 

If you want some redundancy in the system you could easily have a cheap little laptop at the Nav station feeeding from the same WiFi connection as the tablet on deck. The old CF07's were basicly a remote desktop connection through an adhoc network. They work just fine, but they fed themselves from the PC, not from the network.

 

If you want that tablet (I do), pick through this page and check out your options for putting an onboard WiFi network together.

 

Cheers,

Rob

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BTW....Anyone want to buy an HP laptop, CF07 in a bag, a three bay battery charger and four good CF07 batteries? The laptop is loaded.

 

Cheers,

Rob

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If you want that tablet (I do), pick through this page and check out your options for putting an onboard WiFi network together.

 

Cheers,

Rob

 

 

But, you are not going to get your B&G numbers into expedition over NMEA to WIFI.

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>> But, you are not going to get your B&G numbers into expedition over NMEA to WIFI.

 

I'm NKE & Deckman at the moment but don't understand why you say that

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...should have described it with a bit of detail:

 

all this is coming out of my nke via the nke serial (hardwired) out port -

boatspeed/windspeed both apparent & true

depth

temp

heel angle

gps

 

and connected to the nke serial out is a MOXA Nport W2150

which unfortunately can't function as an access point point

so I run a PicoStation2 AP

and data gets where it's supposed to go.

 

There are so many ways to skin this cat that I'm wondering if someone has a better take on it.

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Big fan of AIS for the Offshore races, we went with one of these and works greag: http://www.wmjmarine.com/zdigiais.html?gclid=CPCY2bfHtrYCFQxxQgod0z8APw Only problem we have is Nexus Classic server doesn't deliver checksums, and it expects it. So get AIS out wirelessly, but have to use the USB port to the PC for instrument data/Expedition. Going to upgrade the Nexus server, or get a multi-plexer that adds checksums, but haven't decided yet.

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>> But, you are not going to get your B&G numbers into expedition over NMEA to WIFI.

 

I'm NKE & Deckman at the moment but don't understand why you say that

 

because there are no NMEA sentences for many of the B&G numbers.

 

if you are using B&G to calculate Polar %, for example, you will not be able to get that # to expedition over a NMEA WIFI network, as there is no NMEA sentence for Polar%.

 

same for things like distance to layline, opposite tack heading, next leg AWD etc.

 

However..., with just the NMEA numbers into expedition, you could get expedition to calculate many (perhaps all?) of the non-NMEA numbers locally, on the tablet.

 

But, with a NMEA connection, there will be no way to get those locally calculated numbers to your B&G displays on the mast.

 

So, you might end up with slightly different numbers for, say, Time to Layline, on the mast vs on the tablet.

 

I believe there is a Serial to WIFI device that solves this problem - I think it will essentially allow you to set up a wireless H-Link network, so that you have the same functionality as with a normal hard-wired B&G to laptop H-link connection. So, nothing is NMEA. In another thread, someone suggested that what you really want, is a Serial to Bluetooth device, because for some reason serial data works better over BT.

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If you nicely ask the folks at Digital Yacht to set you up with WiFi adaptor set to the baud rate of your instrument system, they'll do it. Shame they don't have a GUI so you can do it yourself but I'm betting that has to be in the works. They call it a NMEA adaptor, but it's really just RS232 data to WiFi, and B&G spits that out no problem.

 

Link

 

Cheers,

Rob

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If you nicely ask the folks at Digital Yacht to set you up with WiFi adaptor set to the baud rate of your instrument system, they'll do it. Shame they don't have a GUI so you can do it yourself but I'm betting that has to be in the works. They call it a NMEA adaptor, but it's really just RS232 data to WiFi, and B&G spits that out no problem.

 

Link

 

Cheers,

Rob

 

Thanks, it's Interesting, however the article only mentions B&G 3000 Hydra, but most race boats are using Hercules, with performance processor, and H-link.

 

Will it replicate a hard-wired H-link connection?

 

I think that's what most people would want.

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If you nicely ask the folks at Digital Yacht to set you up with WiFi adaptor set to the baud rate of your instrument system, they'll do it. Shame they don't have a GUI so you can do it yourself but I'm betting that has to be in the works. They call it a NMEA adaptor, but it's really just RS232 data to WiFi, and B&G spits that out no problem.

 

Link

 

Cheers,

Rob

 

Thanks, it's Interesting, however the article only mentions B&G 3000 Hydra, but most race boats are using Hercules, with performance processor, and H-link.

 

Will it replicate a hard-wired H-link connection?

 

I think that's what most people would want.

Hydra is the base system and includes RS232 output. Herc, Herc Performance and Herc Motion all build off of the Hydra base. When you buy a Hydra processor you actually have everything you need to upgrade as far as you want to go by purchasing unlock codes. The Performance Processor is an obsolete H2 piece of gear, but if you have one you have RS232 out.

 

Cheers,

Rob

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the systems are brand new - i think i am just using old terminology.

 

they are 3000 hercules performance.

 

anyway, it sounds like this will do everything the H-link to expedition does - is that right?

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I just picked up a FZ-G1 today, I'm going to work on getting it talking to my primary nav computer first and then investigate Expedition on it natively. When I have some results to report I'll let you all know!

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Although in many ways I am really liking my FZ-A1, the screen is just usable for bright sunlight outdoors. I would really like a brighter screen, and since these things are ALL SCREEN, that is something that needs to be addressed. How bright is the G1 comparatively?

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I had my G1 out in direct sunlight on the water today and it auto-brightened to a very usable level. I wouldn't hesitate to keep it on deck during the day to run Expedition. I haven't seen an A1 in person so I can't make comparisons but it was vastly brighter than an iPad, probably brighter than an iPhone screen in direct sunlight.

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Quick update. I've got ours operational on Velocity and so far it works well. We're using it as a repeater for the nav station laptop for starters, I haven't had time to get a wifi -> NMEA bridge working yet so having Expedition running natively on the device isn't in the cards yet.

 

Pros:

- Nice to be able to use Expedition on deck and keep navigator weight on the rail

- Nice to change config on our mast jumbos without having to go downstairs as well

- Screen works well in all lighting conditions, may be too bright for night work but I'm testing that tomorrow night

 

Cons

- Accessories for the device are hard to find so far, this needs to have a shoulder strap carrying case and spare battery pack

- Needs a 12V charger as well

- Typing on the on-screen keyboard is slow and painful

 

I'm going to test an iPad as a secondary remote screen this weekend as well, it's possible that'll integrate as a remote deck screen more effectively.

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I'm playing with an FZ-G1 at present and it's running V8.8.2 of Expedition fine

 

I've also opened up a 24 hour race data log file in stripchart zoomed and panned etc - all OK (file is 5894kb in size)

 

Finding the screen resolution at 1920x120 is too fine to make it easy to use on land - Select drop boxes menus etc in Exped so this would be even harder once on the water.


I'd also suggest that the screen is a little small for everyday nav us in my option.

I use a H1 series normally and even that runs out of screen real estate.

 

Battery life on the FZ-G1 is good and I've easily seen 5 hours with it sitting on the desk with screen at max brightness & wi-fi on with expedition and a GPS app open and I haven't even started to tweak the power management - Which is good from a battery perspective - 10 hours stated on the brochure with LCD brightness: 60 nit, Wi-Fi on while running a YouTube video

 

FZ-G1 has 800 NIT value for brightness

 

The FZ-A1 (android unit) has a 500 NIT screen

 

So in direct sunlight the windows version on paper is going to be brighter

 

I'll trial the FZ-A1 and the FZ-G1 beside each other next week, so will so will take some pics of the screens to show what they look like in direct sunlight with expedition screens on them.

 

Firestarter - a 12 v dc adaptor should not be hard to find - grab a 12vdc to 16v dc (4amps) power adaptor should do the trick

 

LIND will have them or any "good" laptop adaptor that has the right voltage and current capacity

 

Grab an X-Strap as your carry option - ToughMate A1 “X” Strap and Shoulder Strap TBCA1XSTP-P

 

Ultrabook

An alternative is the new panasonic ultrabook the AX2 which is really neat unit - not waterproof or rugged - but is built to be durable (should be good enough for a boat) is light and the fold over screen makes it into a touch screen tablet in the one device.

Which gets over the onscreen keyboard issues when you need to :)

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The link below is to 27 screen pics of A1, G1 and F5V with outdoor viewable screen shots at various angles in full sun and some indoor pics as well.

 

http://im9.eu/album/ocean-view

 

A few low res images shown below as a guide to what's there.

 

A1 and G1 side by side using splashtop with the screen resolution downgraded to suit the A1

 

full-sun-a1-g1-charts.jpg

 

G1 with sun directly reflecting off the screen

spot-glare-g1-charts.jpg

 

A1 with sun directly reflecting off the screen

spot-glare-a1-charts.jpg

 

A1 with GPS test app in full sun

full-sun-a1-gps-app-3-with-shadow.jpg

 

 

The A1 is pretty good in direct sunlight - But it's not as good as the G1


the resolution of the A1 is a bit ordinary with some apps


Especially when compared to the G1's screen

 

But the price difference is also significant

Note: The A1 and G1 use different power connectors !!!!

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This is great info, thanks to contributors.

For the android tablets, what software are you running to control the laptop down below?

Or, what software for remotely controlling one Windows computer by another?

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