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gonesurfin

J/24 Keel Cracks

14 posts in this topic

I left about a gallon of water in the bilge of my J/24 before storing it last winter. I now have some keel cracks and water seeping from one of the cracks. Has anyone seen this before? Both cracks are above where the keel attaches to the hull and the bolts look fine. Is this simply an issue with the fairing material? Is this a DIY repair or does it require a professional?

 

 

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There are two possibilities, both which include extensive use of an angle or die grinder.

 

1) your keel sump is weeping through the keel bolt holes and out the back end of the keel/hull wrap of fiberglass

 

2) you have water trapped in the keel/hull wrap of fiberglass, and the water in your sump is unrelated

 

Either way, you should consult a professional if this isn't work that you're familiar with or have the time and talent to address yourself. If water doesn't accumulate in the sump when the boat is launched, then I'd say you're looking at largely cosmetic weeping, exacerbated by the water you allowed to freeze and thaw repeatedly in your bilge over the winter.

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Ned,

 

There isn't any vermiculite as it's a 1984 boat.

 

 

Dogfish,

 

It seems as thought the water is weeping through the keel bolt holes. It's the busy season for all boat yards and it'll be 6-7 weeks before I'm able to have a professional work the keel. I'd like to mitigate the situation and sail during this time. What's the best way to seal water in the sump from weeping through to the keel and vice versa? Is it possible to remove one bolt at a time without disturbing the keel and apply a sealant under the bolts? If so, what type of sealant? Also, is West Systems a good choice to fill in the keel after I've ground out the cracks?

 

Thanks,

Jon

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My boat is a 1987 and it does a little bit of the same thing. Doesn't make one RCH of difference, as far as I can tell. Not so sure I'd spend the big bucks. For sure you can remove one keel nut at a time (with the boat on the trailer), goop it up, and thread the nut back on. That should solve 95% of the problem, for about .002% of the cost of having a pro fix it.

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My boat is a 1987 and it does a little bit of the same thing. Doesn't make one RCH of difference, as far as I can tell. Not so sure I'd spend the big bucks. For sure you can remove one keel nut at a time (with the boat on the trailer), goop it up, and thread the nut back on. That should solve 95% of the problem, for about .002% of the cost of having a pro fix it.

Not trying to hijack but was curious what hull number. I own 4332 (87 also)

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Is West Systems 407 or 410 good for filling in the rackk in the keel after I've ground it out?

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That is one of the more solid areas of the boat SO I have to think there is in fact a CRACK if it is leaking out the area that is well above the joint

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The crack is very thin and shallow, less than 1mm deep.

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if there isnt any structural problem , 407 would do the trick easily.

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The crack is very thin and shallow, less than 1mm deep.

The joint between the keel and hull is about 6" ? below your leak in the keel sump

 

While it looks like nothing the fact that you say it is leaking water out of the crack makes it more than a surface deep issue as a leak between the keel and hull would be lower

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The crack that has my attention is at the joint of the hull bottom and the top of the sump in the left picture. I would send a more focused picture of the full extent of cracking in this area to WaterLine get their input.

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The crack that has my attention is at the joint of the hull bottom and the top of the sump in the left picture. I would send a more focused picture of the full extent of cracking in this area to WaterLine get their input.

That was my thought too.

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