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QLite

Spreader Tips - Should the shrouds be locked in place or relatively lo

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Hi all,

I have a very simple rig. One set of well swept back spreaders. One set of uppers & one set of lowers shrouds. I just replaced my shrouds and found that the end of my spreaders has a piece that bolts down to the spreader it self and has the ability to lock down the upper shroud in the spreader.

 

So, how tight should the spreader end cap be? I can readily lock the shroud pending the torque applied to the bolts. BTW, 5/16" or 8mm 1x19 wire.

Thanks in advance for any advice...

 

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Pics would help. Who manufactured your mast? What manufacturer and year of boat? My wires are held to the spreader tips with wire and taped over. I remove tape annually and clean. Hit up the local rigger.

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It totally depends on the way the rig works. Some wires need to slide to keep the tensions properly spread, some need to stay exactly in place to hold the tips at the correct height to hold the mast in column.

 

Some rigs have some of each.

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Yes, spreader tips need to be locked to the shroud. Spreader must bi-sect the shroud angle so there is no up/down load on the spreader. Also ensure that the spreader root fixture has the same angle built into it. A spreader that is not seized to the shroud can move either up or down, and when that happens you get a vector from the shroud angle that continues the spreader movement. If the spreader gets far enuff out of alignment it will colapse.

The Farr single spreader rigs will have slack leeward shrouds when the backstay is cranked on-this gives the spreader oppurtunity to wander.

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Thank you for the replies. As my mast is tapered I'm able to put quite a bit of bend in the mast with my backstay which dramatically reduces upper shroud tension. Would it make sense that the shroud then would need to slide through my spreader vs the shroud trying to adjust the spreader angle / bend. Longy, your notes suggest a working knowledge of the Farr38 simple rig and kind of supports my gut instinct. When I initially installed the new shrouds I moderately snugged the cap bolts and now I'm having second thoughts...

 

 

Yes, spreader tips need to be locked to the shroud. Spreader must bi-sect the shroud angle so there is no up/down load on the spreader. Also ensure that the spreader root fixture has the same angle built into it. A spreader that is not seized to the shroud can move either up or down, and when that happens you get a vector from the shroud angle that continues the spreader movement. If the spreader gets far enuff out of alignment it will colapse.

The Farr single spreader rigs will have slack leeward shrouds when the backstay is cranked on-this gives the spreader oppurtunity to wander.

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hey whats a F11.6 ??

Farr 11.6

When Bruce first drew up the Farr38 (around 1977) he called it a Farr 11.6, not to be confused with the new Farr116.

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hey whats a F11.6 ??

Farr 11.6

When Bruce first drew up the Farr38 (around 1977) he called it a Farr 11.6, not to be confused with the new Farr116.

I meant not to be confused with the 2006 design Farr 11S

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Lock the spreaders in at the right angle. Check spreader angles when rigging is tuned tight then lock tips into place. Any 'sliding' when only one shroud goes over a tip will lead to problems. On older continuous/ multiple spreader rigs where two or more shrouds pass over the tip, all must be secured to the tip to prevent them from being dislodged from the spreader tip. If final adjustment of angle & seizing of tip (whether mechanically or with seizing wire) is done at final tension, there is no 'sliding' of shrouds.

There were two F 38's & 2 F 36's with rigs like yours in HI during my time out there. Plus a lot of other single spreader boats without as much sweep angle.

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