• Announcements

    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

glowmaster

whipping cover at clutch.

13 posts in this topic

Hi Gang,

 

Was "whipping" along on my tri in 15-20 and the cover over the dynex dux main halyard ripped and I lost tension. I am going to fix it later this week, and obviously will hand sew at the clutch area. Should I even cover it in the clutch? I know it can take the abuse, but is slippery.

 

BTW, my 6 month old North Squaretop looked amazing, with finally enough luff tension, before the blow out!

 

Any clues on how to do this. I am a good whipper with palm, needles and good thread.

 

thanks for the help. I should have known better.

 

ed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We added a section of cover over the existing cover, J/105 spin halyard. It can get hung up. Next full replacement we will add a "thickener" under the cover.

 

Give it a shot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Best way ive found is to "taper weave" the cover into core, might be less than desirable with Dux, but itll give the smooth transfer youre looking for, and also do a whiplock at each end of the cover (youtube)

 

HW

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"Best way ive found is to "taper weave" the cover into core, might be less than desirable with Dux, but itll give the smooth transfer youre looking for, and also do a whiplock at each end of the cover (youtube)"

 

 

Haligonian: what is a taper weave? And by whiplock, do you mean a simple whipping?

 

Glow: I added a section of cover on top of the existing cover, whipped at the ends, and soaked that section with the Spinlock rope treatment goop, RP25. Also changed out clutchi to Spinlock xx. That combination has worked well.

 

Very interested in the textile clutches though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cover is a 12 or 24 strand weave. Open it up and pull/divide it into 4 relatively even and evenly spaced strands. Tape each . Slide it on your core. With a fid , a ball point pen end or some such, run one strand thru the weave and into the center of your core. You can get fancy and taper each strand. Simpson and other rope makers have pdf. S on this. Run each strand into the core working evenly around the core. It is actually pretty easy after looking at the pdf.s and getting a few fidss. Whip and saw as needed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks all.. Textile clutch is on my next year's toy list. Next time out, I am going to use the horn cleat under the clutch I put there and then didnt think I need. I guess I do.

 

Ed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would think a halyard lock at the top would be the shit.

 

you could get heaps of luff tension w/ the cunny and not blow up halyards/clutches.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No doubt, but I have yet to see a cost effective retrofit way to do this on a main.

 

Part way there might be a 2/1 halyard, with a clutch side mounted on the mast. At least you avoid the load and chafe at the mast foot.

 

 

I would think a halyard lock at the top would be the shit.

 

you could get heaps of luff tension w/ the cunny and not blow up halyards/clutches.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

My ex-F27GS had a halyard lock at the masthead, and not a single clutch on the boat.

 

Note at right the two eyes in the halyard (jib in this pic), and the way the downhaul hooks into the "working" end once hauled up. Screacher done the same way. For the chute, there were two camcleats mounted one above the other, just below the chute halyard exit on the mast.

 

2984222094_c58bf2fa83_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is this the F27 that was totally optimized by randy Smyth, that was for sale down in Texas earlier this year? Sounded like an incredibly cool and well though out boat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, this is the F27GS that was optimized by Tommy and Dub Granger (the "G") and the rig designed by Smyth (the "S") and was for sale in Mississippi. That said, the Grangers are PRETTY FAST MARINE of League City TX.

 

The Granger family are the ones who optimized Smyth's F25C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, this is the F27GS that was optimized by Tommy and Dub Granger (the "G") and the rig designed by Smyth (the "S") and was for sale in Mississippi. That said, the Grangers are PRETTY FAST MARINE of League City TX.

 

The Granger family are the ones who optimized Smyth's F25C.

Always loved this boat!!!

 

Based on your comment, I am assuming that she is sold. :-(

 

Soooo......where did she end up?

 

-MH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites