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glowmaster

whipping cover at clutch.

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Hi Gang,

 

Was "whipping" along on my tri in 15-20 and the cover over the dynex dux main halyard ripped and I lost tension. I am going to fix it later this week, and obviously will hand sew at the clutch area. Should I even cover it in the clutch? I know it can take the abuse, but is slippery.

 

BTW, my 6 month old North Squaretop looked amazing, with finally enough luff tension, before the blow out!

 

Any clues on how to do this. I am a good whipper with palm, needles and good thread.

 

thanks for the help. I should have known better.

 

ed

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We added a section of cover over the existing cover, J/105 spin halyard. It can get hung up. Next full replacement we will add a "thickener" under the cover.

 

Give it a shot

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Best way ive found is to "taper weave" the cover into core, might be less than desirable with Dux, but itll give the smooth transfer youre looking for, and also do a whiplock at each end of the cover (youtube)

 

HW

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"Best way ive found is to "taper weave" the cover into core, might be less than desirable with Dux, but itll give the smooth transfer youre looking for, and also do a whiplock at each end of the cover (youtube)"

 

 

Haligonian: what is a taper weave? And by whiplock, do you mean a simple whipping?

 

Glow: I added a section of cover on top of the existing cover, whipped at the ends, and soaked that section with the Spinlock rope treatment goop, RP25. Also changed out clutchi to Spinlock xx. That combination has worked well.

 

Very interested in the textile clutches though.

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Cover is a 12 or 24 strand weave. Open it up and pull/divide it into 4 relatively even and evenly spaced strands. Tape each . Slide it on your core. With a fid , a ball point pen end or some such, run one strand thru the weave and into the center of your core. You can get fancy and taper each strand. Simpson and other rope makers have pdf. S on this. Run each strand into the core working evenly around the core. It is actually pretty easy after looking at the pdf.s and getting a few fidss. Whip and saw as needed.

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thanks all.. Textile clutch is on my next year's toy list. Next time out, I am going to use the horn cleat under the clutch I put there and then didnt think I need. I guess I do.

 

Ed

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No doubt, but I have yet to see a cost effective retrofit way to do this on a main.

 

Part way there might be a 2/1 halyard, with a clutch side mounted on the mast. At least you avoid the load and chafe at the mast foot.

 

 

I would think a halyard lock at the top would be the shit.

 

you could get heaps of luff tension w/ the cunny and not blow up halyards/clutches.

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My ex-F27GS had a halyard lock at the masthead, and not a single clutch on the boat.

 

Note at right the two eyes in the halyard (jib in this pic), and the way the downhaul hooks into the "working" end once hauled up. Screacher done the same way. For the chute, there were two camcleats mounted one above the other, just below the chute halyard exit on the mast.

 

2984222094_c58bf2fa83_o.jpg

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No, this is the F27GS that was optimized by Tommy and Dub Granger (the "G") and the rig designed by Smyth (the "S") and was for sale in Mississippi. That said, the Grangers are PRETTY FAST MARINE of League City TX.

 

The Granger family are the ones who optimized Smyth's F25C.

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No, this is the F27GS that was optimized by Tommy and Dub Granger (the "G") and the rig designed by Smyth (the "S") and was for sale in Mississippi. That said, the Grangers are PRETTY FAST MARINE of League City TX.

 

The Granger family are the ones who optimized Smyth's F25C.

Always loved this boat!!!

 

Based on your comment, I am assuming that she is sold. :-(

 

Soooo......where did she end up?

 

-MH

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