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      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

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mustang__1

replacing chainplates - tension on tie-down?

11 posts in this topic

Just had new chainplates made for our hobie33. Not entirely sure how much tension to put on the deck tie-down from the bottom of the chainplate to the bulkhead? blanking on the proper name, sorry.

 

thanks

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Dealing with a similar refit issue. Its the length more than tension and not simple answer.

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I would think that hand tight on the Hobie is enough

 

The tension will come from rig loads. The tie down is to transfer the loads to structure, not to create a pre-load. Snug 'em up, lock the turnbuckles; job done.

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thanks ropetrick.

 

 

hhn92, i think we met when i as still in middle school.... just graduated college this spring.

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We just put new SS billet machined transition blocks under the deck of our Hobie 33. The aluminum ones were badly corroded around the head of the stud and it was only a matter of time...

A few tricks. The old ones did pop off with some determined leverage from a chisel. Deck lamination survived. to remove the tie rod (without hacking up the interior furniture, we drilled a 3/4" hole in the deck above it and withdrew it from above (it doesn't come out from below without dramatic mods to the "hanging locker" woodwork - which is structural as the tie rod chainplates are bolted to it)

After assembly the hole was filled with filled epoxy. The top plate covers the hole.

To tension the bottom tie rods we "pre loaded" the deck down with my weight plus a friend while the nut was snugged. Did the same on both sides.

Once we figured out the technique, other side took less than an hour.

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thanks ropetrick.

 

 

hhn92, i think we met when i as still in middle school.... just graduated college this spring.

 

 

Shouldn't you be back in school? :o

The confusion is understandable. Based on his munchkin-like attributes it would appear that he should be just running off to high school... amirite!?

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attachicon.gifubolt.jpgWe just put new SS billet machined transition blocks under the deck of our Hobie 33. The aluminum ones were badly corroded around the head of the stud and it was only a matter of time...

A few tricks. The old ones did pop off with some determined leverage from a chisel. Deck lamination survived. to remove the tie rod (without hacking up the interior furniture, we drilled a 3/4" hole in the deck above it and withdrew it from above (it doesn't come out from below without dramatic mods to the "hanging locker" woodwork - which is structural as the tie rod chainplates are bolted to it)

After assembly the hole was filled with filled epoxy. The top plate covers the hole.

To tension the bottom tie rods we "pre loaded" the deck down with my weight plus a friend while the nut was snugged. Did the same on both sides.

Once we figured out the technique, other side took less than an hour.

one more thing. To help "ease" the U bolts out without banging on them too much, as the mast was up (supported by a Halyard) We took another halyard to each U bolt and taking it to the winch, gave her a lot of tension. A few taps and out she came.

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yup we've had the old ones out for a while while we had new ones made (slightly different design than original. should be just as strong if not stronger, but definitely a couple ounces heavier). patience and very directed here did the trick for us (5200 breaks down immediately with heat). given that you preloaded and that doesnt seem to have hurt anything, i will follow suit. thanks.

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thanks ropetrick.

 

 

hhn92, i think we met when i as still in middle school.... just graduated college this spring.

 

I must be getting old..........time flies when your having fun.

 

 

Congratulations.

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