• Announcements

    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Recidivist

Stabilised binoculars - any experience?

23 posts in this topic

I'm thinking of getting a pair of stabilised binos. Not for normal use, but as a race officer sighting down the start-line - I can see that some-one is over, but if the line is >250 metres, I have difficulty making out the sail number. I figured stabilised binos will extend my useful service life by a couple of years. Does anyone have experience with them? Recommendations? Budget is about $1200.

 

TIA

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm thinking of getting a pair of stabilised binos. Not for normal use, but as a race officer sighting down the start-line - I can see that some-one is over, but if the line is >250 metres, I have difficulty making out the sail number. I figured stabilised binos will extend my useful service life by a couple of years. Does anyone have experience with them? Recommendations? Budget is about $1200.

 

TIA

I've got a older pair (nikon). I love em. And I bet new technology is even better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Expensive but they really do work. You can use greater magnification on a boat that is moving around and still zero in on distant objects.

 

But your use does not seem like you are really looking at distant objects. Of course the stabilization would help in any use but cost benefit might not be there for sighting down starting line. (I guess it depends on how long the line is.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Expensive but they really do work. You can use greater magnification on a boat that is moving around and still zero in on distant objects.

 

But your use does not seem like you are really looking at distant objects. Of course the stabilization would help in any use but cost benefit might not be there for sighting down starting line. (I guess it depends on how long the line is.)

+1. They are definitely an improvement over non-stabilized, they have limits but they improve viewing in all circumstances. I would have the same comment regarding looking down a starting line from an RC boat, too short to help a lot?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a pair of Canons that have worked well for years. Try and use them in ways that match how you expect before purchasing- getting the right magnification is key to having them do the job you hope.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Canon 10x42 with L glass sell for about your budget. They work quite well. The IS really clears up the image.

 

The practical max for unstabilized boat binocs is 7X.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My crew had a pair of stabilized Canon's last week for the AC, and they were *really* nice for that. I think he paid around $350, but they weren't waterproof.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm thinking of getting a pair of stabilised binos. Not for normal use, but as a race officer sighting down the start-line - I can see that some-one is over, but if the line is >250 metres, I have difficulty making out the sail number. I figured stabilised binos will extend my useful service life by a couple of years. Does anyone have experience with them? Recommendations? Budget is about $1200.

 

TIA

 

Is your wife/ gf up for it. Of she's okay w it I recommend you go ahead. Might wanna up the budget some however.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm making the same decision.

 

 

Cannon 10x42 L IS WP "waterproof" look pretty sweet, though you seem to pay a lot more for "waterproof" versus "all weather/water resistant".

 

It would be nice to be able to try them out first to see about eye relief and so forth. Maybe buy a $400 pair, see if you really like them, then step up to the nicer ones??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone have any experience with Fraser optics image stabilized monocular? Its pricey (1900), but waterproof and floating.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the Cannon. I've had them for 4 years now. At the time the Nikon was not available because the US Government had bought them all. The Cannon works very well. I managed to break an eyepiece and I sent them back and they repaired for free. Waterproof is a must.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The exit pupil on some of these, like the Fraser mono, is really tiny, like 3 mm. Might drive you nuts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had a pair of the fujinon 14x40 for 3 or 4 years. Amazing how far you can make things out with 14x. It is like having a telescope. One thing I don't particular like is the stand by feature. Seems like just off and on would be easier.

 

Not sure what they cost but I know a lot, so much that I always have another pair on board to use and to give to the less careful crew, ie kids and for just anybody to use that is playing around. These things are not toys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We cruised with a pair of Canons for 3 years - they lived in the cockpit and didn't lead an "Easy" life. 4 years after returning to shore, they are still going strong.

 

Go stabilized! You will NOT regret the decision!

 

The only negative (of sorts) is that they went throught AAs pretty quickly. Swapping to disposable Lithium AAs seemed to calm the battery eating to an acceptable level.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wouldn't you need a single lens style telescope instead to line up the pin with the flag pole directly in front of you?

Nope. One lens on either side of the flag pole and line up the vertical reticule with the mark/flag pole at the other end. Works great for big fleets and a long line.

 

You do need a second pair of eyes to keep an eye on the near side of the line, since you're focused on the far end.

 

I haven't dropped the coin on IS . . . yet. I imagine when my Fujinon's shit the bed, I'll buck up. I mistreat my equipment, though. Trashing a $1200 pair of binos would suck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all for the comments. I ran a nationals for a class where I declined to be paid for the event, but the sneaky bastards inveigled my bank account details out of my wife and dropped some cash in. I figured the only decent thing to do was buy some IS binos so I can call OCS on more of them next time around.

 

I have a lifelong rule to never own anything with the Canon brand on it (long story) so I've been considering the Fujinon 14x40. While 12x magnification should be plenty, I suspect the 30mm lenses of the 12x30 might be a bit limiting.

 

Good to see SA is still good for advice from peeps who know what they are talking about - thanks again.

 

R

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all for the comments. I ran a nationals for a class where I declined to be paid for the event, but the sneaky bastards inveigled my bank account details out of my wife and dropped some cash in. I figured the only decent thing to do was buy some IS binos so I can call OCS on more of them next time around.

 

I have a lifelong rule to never own anything with the Canon brand on it (long story) so I've been considering the Fujinon 14x40. While 12x magnification should be plenty, I suspect the 30mm lenses of the 12x30 might be a bit limiting.

 

Good to see SA is still good for advice from peeps who know what they are talking about - thanks again.

 

R

 

I had a similar bias against Nikon, used Canon gear for photography for years. I got over it; I think it's more of a religious issue and both companies make top quality gear.

 

Before heading off shore we bought a refurbished pair of Nikon StabilEyes 14x40 (4° field of view). Not really a sensible way down under for you to buy them, but we bought ours at the Defender tent sale where they had a limited number of refurbished units for sale. If memory serves it came in under $700 vs. buying a brand new pair for around $1200.

 

Absolutely love them. Seeing numbers on cans, reading names off of ships and boats - all those things work as advertised. You can read things you can't even see with the naked eye while under sail and moving. One of the better uses we've found is offshore at night for discerning ships lights. You can resolve that patch of light on the horizon to see exactly what the light configuration of the ship is.

 

We could even make out that Saturn had rings, though you couldn't discern them or tell colors or anything.

 

From the people we talked to when we bought them, in most cases "Refurbished" meant "Returned", as people bought them and decided they didn't want them so returned them with very light, if any use. Very few of the Refurbs are actual repaired units, most just can't be sold for new any more.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Thanks all for the comments. I ran a nationals for a class where I declined to be paid for the event, but the sneaky bastards inveigled my bank account details out of my wife and dropped some cash in. I figured the only decent thing to do was buy some IS binos so I can call OCS on more of them next time around.

 

I have a lifelong rule to never own anything with the Canon brand on it (long story) so I've been considering the Fujinon 14x40. While 12x magnification should be plenty, I suspect the 30mm lenses of the 12x30 might be a bit limiting.

 

Good to see SA is still good for advice from peeps who know what they are talking about - thanks again.

 

R

 

I had a similar bias against Nikon, used Canon gear for photography for years. I got over it; I think it's more of a religious issue and both companies make top quality gear.

 

Before heading off shore we bought a refurbished pair of Nikon StabilEyes 14x40 (4° field of view). Not really a sensible way down under for you to buy them, but we bought ours at the Defender tent sale where they had a limited number of refurbished units for sale. If memory serves it came in under $700 vs. buying a brand new pair for around $1200.

 

Absolutely love them. Seeing numbers on cans, reading names off of ships and boats - all those things work as advertised. You can read things you can't even see with the naked eye while under sail and moving. One of the better uses we've found is offshore at night for discerning ships lights. You can resolve that patch of light on the horizon to see exactly what the light configuration of the ship is.

 

We could even make out that Saturn had rings, though you couldn't discern them or tell colors or anything.

 

From the people we talked to when we bought them, in most cases "Refurbished" meant "Returned", as people bought them and decided they didn't want them so returned them with very light, if any use. Very few of the Refurbs are actual repaired units, most just can't be sold for new any more.

 

Thanks BJ, good info. The Nikon 14x40's are exactly the same unit as the Fujinon 14x40's apparently. That tent sale sounds great, too bad I'm a long way away. I priced a set of Fuji's from Defender but they are over the limit for Customs dispensation in Aus, - I need to find a way to avoid the duty (legally of course).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

Thanks all for the comments. I ran a nationals for a class where I declined to be paid for the event, but the sneaky bastards inveigled my bank account details out of my wife and dropped some cash in. I figured the only decent thing to do was buy some IS binos so I can call OCS on more of them next time around.

 

I have a lifelong rule to never own anything with the Canon brand on it (long story) so I've been considering the Fujinon 14x40. While 12x magnification should be plenty, I suspect the 30mm lenses of the 12x30 might be a bit limiting.

 

Good to see SA is still good for advice from peeps who know what they are talking about - thanks again.

 

R

 

I had a similar bias against Nikon, used Canon gear for photography for years. I got over it; I think it's more of a religious issue and both companies make top quality gear.

 

Before heading off shore we bought a refurbished pair of Nikon StabilEyes 14x40 (4° field of view). Not really a sensible way down under for you to buy them, but we bought ours at the Defender tent sale where they had a limited number of refurbished units for sale. If memory serves it came in under $700 vs. buying a brand new pair for around $1200.

 

Absolutely love them. Seeing numbers on cans, reading names off of ships and boats - all those things work as advertised. You can read things you can't even see with the naked eye while under sail and moving. One of the better uses we've found is offshore at night for discerning ships lights. You can resolve that patch of light on the horizon to see exactly what the light configuration of the ship is.

 

We could even make out that Saturn had rings, though you couldn't discern them or tell colors or anything.

 

From the people we talked to when we bought them, in most cases "Refurbished" meant "Returned", as people bought them and decided they didn't want them so returned them with very light, if any use. Very few of the Refurbs are actual repaired units, most just can't be sold for new any more.

 

Thanks BJ, good info. The Nikon 14x40's are exactly the same unit as the Fujinon 14x40's apparently. That tent sale sounds great, too bad I'm a long way away. I priced a set of Fuji's from Defender but they are over the limit for Customs dispensation in Aus, - I need to find a way to avoid the duty (legally of course).

 

Didn't figure my purchase info would do you much good...

 

Great glasses though, we really love them.

 

I do not think the Fujinon and Nikon are identical. Similar yes, but the Nikon has a "Land" and "On Board" mode with apparently dampens different sorts of motions more optimally. Not surprisingly, "On Board" works better on the boat...

 

Nikons are also Porro prism, Fujunons are Roof prism.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Didn't figure my purchase info would do you much good...

 

Great glasses though, we really love them.

 

I do not think the Fujinon and Nikon are identical. Similar yes, but the Nikon has a "Land" and "On Board" mode with apparently dampens different sorts of motions more optimally. Not surprisingly, "On Board" works better on the boat...

 

Nikons are also Porro prism, Fujunons are Roof prism.

 

Hmm - the "identical" info came from another site with a lot of good info about IS - shame I can't remember it now!

 

So - I'll now go and read up about "roof prisms" and "porro prisms" - thanks for that! :wacko:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

Didn't figure my purchase info would do you much good...

 

Great glasses though, we really love them.

 

I do not think the Fujinon and Nikon are identical. Similar yes, but the Nikon has a "Land" and "On Board" mode with apparently dampens different sorts of motions more optimally. Not surprisingly, "On Board" works better on the boat...

 

Nikons are also Porro prism, Fujunons are Roof prism.

 

Hmm - the "identical" info came from another site with a lot of good info about IS - shame I can't remember it now!

 

So - I'll now go and read up about "roof prisms" and "porro prisms" - thanks for that! :wacko:

 

They LOOK practically identical, and I also heard they were made in the same factory with different labels slapped on them. Which may be a version of the truth...but if you do a Product Compare on a website like bhphoto.com you can see a few differences.

 

Good luck...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites