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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

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stealingisacrime

Bottom Paint Opinions - Did you try anything new this season that work

75 posts in this topic

I know bottom paint has been discussed 1000 times, so I just want to know if anyone tried anything new this season... 2013.

I figure by now you would know.

 

I am a VC Offshore user who is just wondering if their is anything better.

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Im quite interested in this . Im prepping my new J/88 this winter and wish to use interprotect/vc-17 in freshwater. Is there anything better ? most of my club are using the combination im refering to.

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if you are in freshwater no there is nothing better then VC-17 period.

 

as for VC offshore I am still using it on my sailboat because I cant find anything better, however my local awl grip rep gave me some new Interlux bottom paint Micron CF, I am very pleased with how it has held up this season. Sadly the boat sat for over a month and when I took her out of the slip finally for a day run 99% of the growth had sloughed off, what didn't came off was easily removed with a soft bristle brush and I did not notice a huge blue plume around me in the water

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Tried Interlux ACT this year, very pleased with its performance. For the prop Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Spray keeps the prop spotless throughout the season.

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I can not agree more with Charlie I will never ever use the copper stuff again, I have even been sent messages from the makers asking me why, and how it is never there fault.

 

I have used the silicon based paints in the past. If you are doing a first time bottom job and you leave your boat in the water 8-10 months a year or year round this is the way you should be looking to go! I have used the Sherman Williams and the intersleek. I prefer the intersleek for ease of application, I have had it on the bottom of one of my boats right now for over 5 years and it still holding up great and working fine with out re-coating it.

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Charlie,

What was the issue? Difficult to work with? Doesn't work?

We used that copper stuff on a boat and will never touch it again, EVER!!!!

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I also would be interested in what the issue with the Copper stuff is.

 

 

As to bottom paint, nope, nothing new this year. We will haul the boat out for the winter, pressure wash the bottom and put it back in the water in the spring. Unless it comes out scummier that the other boats, the current paint will do.

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We put on eight freaking coats of the stuff EIGHT! Just to get coverage and it has to cure 72 hrs with no moisture as well as 24 hours between coats. Does it work? Don't know yet since the boat is on the hard and tied up in litigation. I do know that it's looking shabby in places already and has given up and flaked off of the strut in places.

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We are using e paint on both powerboats and the sailboat in the Great Lakes and is truly amazing lasts 2 seasons in chicago and holds it color .bit more exepensive than most others but lasts 2 seasons so well worth the initial cost

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coppercoat is holding up nicely on a holder 20' near me( southern ca). not a bit of crap on the bottom. they had a strict application routine. "To ensure a satisfactory chemical bond between coats, all the required coats should be applied consecutively in a single day." rolled straight onto the gelcoat hull after roughing up and wiping with acetone.

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quezal1, are you talking about copper coat or VC 17? because if its copper coat you should be seeing a hell of a lot longer then two years out of it according to the manufacturer

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For fresh water why VC-17? You realize Pettits SR-21 has more copper, goes on easier, you actually get a full can, and it's a better price? It will roll on right over VC-17.

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Sorry I should have said any of VC 17 derivatives be it sr 21 or the old west marine house brand. That style of paint in fresh water is hands down the best way to go

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West marines house brand bottom paints are all made by Pettit.

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Tried Interlux ACT this year, very pleased with its performance. For the prop Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Spray keeps the prop spotless throughout the season.

+1000 for Sailman's Rustoleum recommendation. I've tried everything under the sun for prop & shaft. This is the first stuff I have found that actually works, is readily available and dirt cheap. I have zero growth of anything on the prop or shaft here in Narraganset Bay this year since painting them in the spring with Rustoleum.

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quezal1, are you talking about copper coat or VC 17? because if its copper coat you should be seeing a hell of a lot longer then two years out of it according to the manufacturer

Trend setter

 

I am talking about a product called http://www.epaint.com absolutley amazing stuff comes Ina range of colors and for all types of use

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You must work for epaint? Because I have never seen/heard good things.

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E-paint definitely has its fans. I ain't one of 'em, however.

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I've used Sea Hawk Smart Solutions copper free. It is wothless. By the third week you could not see the paint for the growth. The factory rep's response when I could get one has been basically yeah we know. I was told it needs scrubbing every couple of weeks. I was also told if seeing the growth bothered me use black instead of white.

 

There other paints may be ok but this is not ready for prime time.

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FWIW, the EPaint ZO racing finish works well for me, in Maine with a four month season and a boat I can clean easily, and repaint lightly each year. Stays nice and clean and white.

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Hydrocoat SR this year (Upper Narragansett Bay - Rhode Island) and more barnicles than an abandoned pier. I have NEVER had barnicles before with any other paint. Tried this due to Practical Sailor reports, but at least here it is just awful.

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Thanks for the report. I tried Interlux ACT this year after not being able to get my normal Bluewater Marine 45. It performed very well, my boat is in Brewer's Sakonnet. I had considered the Hydrocoat, glad I did not experiment with it.

Hydrocoat SR this year (Upper Narragansett Bay - Rhode Island) and more barnicles than an abandoned pier. I have NEVER had barnicles before with any other paint. Tried this due to Practical Sailor reports, but at least here it is just awful.

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used micron csc after sanding/re-fairing whole bottom and barrier coating the keel and rudder. Had it dove on every 2-3 weeks this summer. Gets slimey if you go more, but sailing it every week takes it right off. No barnacles at all. Put the petit zinc zince barnacle barrier coat on shaft and props and no issues or barnacles whatsoever or eelage of paint. Applied correctly with 2 coats hot worked great and it is still there. Very happy. 2 coats on hull just coming off a slight bit on bow at waterline from scrubbing every 2 weeks good stuff!!

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Tried Interlux ACT this year, very pleased with its performance. For the prop Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Spray keeps the prop spotless throughout the season.

+1000 for Sailman's Rustoleum recommendation. I've tried everything under the sun for prop & shaft. This is the first stuff I have found that actually works, is readily available and dirt cheap. I have zero growth of anything on the prop or shaft here in Narraganset Bay this year since painting them in the spring with Rustoleum.

 

Tell me more about the Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing paint, please. I've tried everything on my boat as well and NOTHING seems to work for long on the shaft and prop. I am sick and tired of diving on it all summer.

 

Can it be sprayed on a bronze prop as well as the stainless shaft? There is no electrolosis issues or anything? It works in Narraganset Bay well? I'm in Buzzards Bay and I really would like to get something that works more than the first 3 weeks of the season I normally get.

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The only thing that works for the prop and shaft is prop speed. It's pricey but done right should last two seasons

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Spray it on bronze or stainless, works like a charm.

 

Corros1.gif

 

 

Tried Interlux ACT this year, very pleased with its performance. For the prop Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Spray keeps the prop spotless throughout the season.

+1000 for Sailman's Rustoleum recommendation. I've tried everything under the sun for prop & shaft. This is the first stuff I have found that actually works, is readily available and dirt cheap. I have zero growth of anything on the prop or shaft here in Narraganset Bay this year since painting them in the spring with Rustoleum.

 

Tell me more about the Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing paint, please. I've tried everything on my boat as well and NOTHING seems to work for long on the shaft and prop. I am sick and tired of diving on it all summer.

 

Can it be sprayed on a bronze prop as well as the stainless shaft? There is no electrolosis issues or anything? It works in Narraganset Bay well? I'm in Buzzards Bay and I really would like to get something that works more than the first 3 weeks of the season I normally get.

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I am talking about a product called http://www.epaint.com absolutley amazing stuff comes Ina range of colors and for all types of use

 

 

E-paint definitely has its fans. I ain't one of 'em, however.

 

Anyone have any more experience with Epaint. Years ago I used some on a powerboat and it worked great, it was hard and burnished smooth.

 

They don't make that paint anymore ... I'm leery of trusting paint manufactures on what their paint can do. Any recommendations?

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E-Paint is definitely still in business. Are you talking about a particular E-Paint product that is no longer available?

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E-Paint is definitely still in business. Are you talking about a particular E-Paint product that is no longer available?

it was probably the original ePaint formulation, I don't recall what it was called

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In South Florida I have had the best luck with Vivid Bottom Paint (on our sail or power catamarans).

The last big boat we built, an OFFSHORE 48, that summers in New England and here in Palm Beach in the winter has Coppercoat.

After one year the Coppercoat had zero growth...zero.

We followed the directions on the package.

The only downside in my opinion is the color which starts off new penny and turns old green penny.

I talked to their rep about adding a black color tint and his short answer was NO.

 

Michael Bell

 

www.offshorecats.com

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Here is a "before" shot of a CopperCoated Hallberg Rassy 42 we cleaned in Berkeley last month. You tell me how good it works.

 

coppercoatbottom.jpg

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Did you apply the CopperCoat that failed?

 

Prep and application is very important for all coatings.

 

The only boat we used Coppercoat on is performing 100% as advertised.

 

Again we followed the package directions to the letter and also watched their how to video.

 

I have been in the Epoxy business for 35 years and when one guy has a failure out of a thousand...?

 

MB

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Did you apply the CopperCoat that failed?

 

Prep and application is very important for all coatings.

 

The only boat we used Coppercoat on is performing 100% as advertised.

 

I have been in the Epoxy business for 35 years and when one guy has a failure out of a thousand...?

 

MB

I did not apply the product but have come across it and other copper-loaded epoxy anti fouling coatings like it many times. I wouldn't recommend any of them to my worst enemy. Terrible results 100% of the time.

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Further, I find it dificult to believe that any anti fouling coating available in this country can be left untouched for a year in a saltwater environment and exhibit "zero gowth", as you claim. Especially in a high-fouling region like Florida. Maybe you're a shill for CopperCoat?

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Since you make your living "fixing" bottoms if you do find a system that works you should buy it and hide it.

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I don't "fix" bottoms, I clean 'em. Have for a long time. And I know anti fouling bullshit when I hear it.

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Here is a "before" shot of a CopperCoated Hallberg Rassy 42 we cleaned in Berkeley last month. You tell me how good it works. coppercoatbottom.jpg

Matt, how long was that between cleanings?

 

I had my boat painted before the '12 Pac Cup. It was SUPPOSED to have been painted with Trinidad SR. I started seeing grassy growth in November, about 6 weeks after returning to SFO. In March we started seeing kind of hard growth. In May, I hauled and pressure washed it, and the paint more or less ran off in a blue river...like you'd expect from an ablative paint, not an epoxy paint like SR. Now when I wipe it, I get massive clouds of toxic blue, and within a week, the slime is back. Normally my SR paint jobs go at least dos anos. Would a round trip to HI degrade a paint like SR this much?

 

Just for grins, I jumped in the water and completely scraped the fingers of my dock clean. Sides and bottom. I was trying to dissuade the mussel embryos from getting sucked into my refrigeration system and clogging it. A great workout, and totally pointless. Within a month it looked like a specimen tank at the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

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Nick, to the best of my knowledge, that pic represents about a year's worth of growth.

 

Regarding your Trinidad bottom- what you describe is indicative of "solvent entrapment". This occurs when the yard rushes the second coat on and the solvents in the first coat don't get to flash off properly. The result is soft, unstable paint layers, making a hard paint appear ablative. I have been seeing more and more of this issue over the last year or two.

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Nick, to the best of my knowledge, that pic represents about a year's worth of growth.

Regarding your Trinidad bottom- what you describe is indicative of "solvent entrapment". This occurs when the yard rushes the second coat on and the solvents in the first coat don't get to flash off properly. The result is soft, unstable paint layers, making a hard paint appear ablative. I have been seeing more and more of this issue over the last year or two.

Wow, I thought that copper stuff was supposed to kill damn near everything, for ages.

 

I may need to buy you lunch to talk about bottom prep and paint application. I'm getting a bit of the run around.

 

Oh, quick one...could you get a similar effect from painting over a bottom that was insufficiently "roughed up"? They essentially wet sanded the bottom by hand before painting. It was nothing like the machine sanding done at the yard next door.

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Nick, to the best of my knowledge, that pic represents about a year's worth of growth.

 

Regarding your Trinidad bottom- what you describe is indicative of "solvent entrapment". This occurs when the yard rushes the second coat on and the solvents in the first coat don't get to flash off properly. The result is soft, unstable paint layers, making a hard paint appear ablative. I have been seeing more and more of this issue over the last year or two.

How much time should pass before the 2nd coat ? (bay area weather)

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How much time should pass before the 2nd coat ? (bay area weather)

Completely dependent on the product in question. Read the label on the can.

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Nick, to the best of my knowledge, that pic represents about a year's worth of growth.

Regarding your Trinidad bottom- what you describe is indicative of "solvent entrapment". This occurs when the yard rushes the second coat on and the solvents in the first coat don't get to flash off properly. The result is soft, unstable paint layers, making a hard paint appear ablative. I have been seeing more and more of this issue over the last year or two.

Wow, I thought that copper stuff was supposed to kill damn near everything, for ages.

It has very little in the way of anti fouling properties. That's why we don't see it much around here.

 

could you get a similar effect from painting over a bottom that was insufficiently "roughed up"? They essentially wet sanded the bottom by hand before painting. It was nothing like the machine sanding done at the yard next door.

I doubt it. In that case, my guess is you'd have adhesion issues resulting in paint flaking off the hull, not soft, sloughing paint.

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Nick, to the best of my knowledge, that pic represents about a year's worth of growth.

Regarding your Trinidad bottom- what you describe is indicative of "solvent entrapment". This occurs when the yard rushes the second coat on and the solvents in the first coat don't get to flash off properly. The result is soft, unstable paint layers, making a hard paint appear ablative. I have been seeing more and more of this issue over the last year or two.

Wow, I thought that copper stuff was supposed to kill damn near everything, for ages.

It has very little in the way of anti fouling properties. That's why we don't see it much around here.

could you get a similar effect from painting over a bottom that was insufficiently "roughed up"? They essentially wet sanded the bottom by hand before painting. It was nothing like the machine sanding done at the yard next door.

I doubt it. In that case, my guess is you'd have adhesion issues resulting in paint flaking off the hull, not soft, sloughing paint.

Thanks Matt. Bob H. Asked "why did you paint it with an ablative?" Kim says "our records show that we used Trinidad Pro (over two yr old SR)." All I know is that the only art of the bottom paint that is working is the SpeedProp, and I did that.

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The boat is still in the water but from diving the bottom I think the Vivid held up better this year than in years past. I machine sanded the entire bottom to what I think was the barrier coat, scrubbed it down with Simple green, rinsed several times then following the mfg's recommendation, wiped down the hull with denatured alcohol.

The difference this year is that I sanded all of the old shit off and that we used mohair rollers, roll and tip style. The weather last spring was fickle so we had several days between coats, usually we only wait the minimum time. (24 hrs?)

The shaft and prop, different story, I was scraping shit out of the folding prop gears every week. Going to use that stuff Sailman said was the answer next season. And the fn speedo impeller... What the hell do you do with that?

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Yeah, I said that was what I'm going to do but... ya know...

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Petit Vivid (in Western LIS). The guy who scrubs my bottom said it was the best one in the entire harbor ...

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Petit Vivid (in Western LIS). The guy who scrubs my bottom said it was the best one in the entire harbor ...

I'll bet he says that to everyone who lets him scrub their bottom..... :blink:

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After 11 years my boat will no longer have a white bum. I've tried Trilux, Trilux 33 and Micron CSC (and I've heard nothing good about Vivid) so I'm switching to a co-polymer - Micron 66.

 

The topsides are flag blue (very dark) and the boot is white. I need to decide between red, blue or green. I wanted a lighter green for that East Coast look, but Micron 66's colors are dark. I guess I'll have a dark blue bottom on a darker blue boat, but I'm not thrilled about it.

 

I'm pretty certain about the Micron 66 and the yard says the color can't be lightened.

 

Suggestions welcome.

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Umm... Bob, you've been using co-polymer ablatives- Trilux 33 and Micron CSC. :P

 

That being said, Micron 66 is one of the two anti fouling paint products I ever recommend. The other being Trinidad. All other paints are inferior by comparison, IMHO.

 

Not that you asked or anything. :D

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Yep, just quoting the yard manager. I'm told it's a much harder ablative - we'll see.

 

So what's your pleasure with flag blue topsides - blue or green?

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Yep, just quoting the yard manager. I'm told it's a much harder ablative - we'll see.

 

So what's your pleasure with flag blue topsides - blue or green?

 

 

It's actually a "hybrid" ablative, sharing some properties of both hard paints and ablatives.

 

I say go with green. Need some contrast.

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Yep, just quoting the yard manager. I'm told it's a much harder ablative - we'll see.

 

So what's your pleasure with flag blue topsides - blue or green?

Look at the green on my boat. C-31

(Micron 66)

Matt gently rubs my bottom once a month......

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Matt gently rubs my bottom once a month......

 

And the boat gets cleaned now and then too...

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Here's a photo from 2007 --- same paint used now. Green Micron 66

 

 

 

 

 

 

post-18853-0-36757500-1384043223_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I've used Micron CSC for the past 20 years or so, ever since the TBT paints went off the market. I plan to put it on again next year. It does not give the kind of mirror smooth finish you can get with VC and some of the others, but it is super easy to clean and I easily get two years out of it. All I get is slime which is easily removed. In the second year I need to have a diver on it before regattas to make sure there isn't any remaining slime in areas where I can't see very well.

 

It does need to be completely cleaned off and refreshed every 2nd or 3rd haulout, otherwise the bottom layers tend to flake. It is easily removed with a scraper or chemicals.

 

The shark white is pretty close to white (it is actually light grey) in the water, which helps to slow down growth for some marine organisms. In our area you do NOT want a dark bottom, lest the herring decide to use your boat as a place to put their spawn.

 

Looking for something new to try, but haven't seen anything that really grabs me with a ton of people supporting it. For every positive report on new technology there seems to be an equal number of complaints. Hence the decision to put it back on again.

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Dash, the boat has CSC in shark white on it now. It hasn't held up any better than Trilux did, plus Trilux didn't turn green around the waterline (since it's not a copper paint). Our water is probably a bit warmer than yours, and I have a slip that exposes the rudder to lots of sun. It turns brown in a week.

 

Family, I was there today but hadn't seen your post. If I'm back tomorrow I'll take a look. That green is lighter than the color sample on-line and would work fine.

 

@FB - There's been some talk up in the club about you guys and your rubbing . . .

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@FB - There's been some talk up in the club about you guys and your rubbing . . .

 

Not that there's anything wrong with that.

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There is already an entire thread a few posts down about that system. Sounds like snake oil to me. Part of the instructions tell you to make sure you have bottom paint on the boat... Wtf?!?!

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There is already an entire thread a few posts down about that system. Sounds like snake oil to me. Part of the instructions tell you to make sure you have bottom paint on the boat... Wtf?!?!

 

How's it supposed to work without a proven anti fouling system already in place? :P

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There is already an entire thread a few posts down about that system. Sounds like snake oil to me. Part of the instructions tell you to make sure you have bottom paint on the boat... Wtf?!?!

 

How's it supposed to work without a proven anti fouling system already in place? :P

Actually they are just recommending a barrier coat, not an AF, although they say some owners opt for both.

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Actually they are just recommending a barrier coat, not an AF, although they say some owners opt for both.

 

No, they recommend anti fouling paint as protection against blistering, which of course is complete bullshit. From the Sonihull FAQ page:

 

Will i still need to paint my boat with antifouling paint?
Painting the hull is not only for purpose of antifouling. it is also an important waterproofing barrier, protecting the gel coat from the effects (and immense cost) of osmosis. Therefore we would still recommend that the boat is protected under the water line.
And the retardation doesn't stop there:

...some yacht owners who have installed the sonihull system have opted to use a harder grade of antifouling paint, as apposed to the soft self polishing versions which have a higher drag factor through the water.

The high school dropout spelling and grammar errors in the quoted passages are just the icing on the cake.

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Actually they are just recommending a barrier coat, not an AF, although they say some owners opt for both.

 

No, they recommend anti fouling paint as protection against blistering, which of course is complete bullshit. From the Sonihull FAQ page:

 

Will i still need to paint my boat with antifouling paint?
Painting the hull is not only for purpose of antifouling. it is also an important waterproofing barrier, protecting the gel coat from the effects (and immense cost) of osmosis. Therefore we would still recommend that the boat is protected under the water line.
And the retardation doesn't stop there:

...some yacht owners who have installed the sonihull system have opted to use a harder grade of antifouling paint, as apposed to the soft self polishing versions which have a higher drag factor through the water.

The high school dropout spelling and grammar errors in the quoted passages are just the icing on the cake.

To start off with I'm totally not sold on this item. I read the same thing so we can agree to disagree on what this means FB. It is certainly poorly worded but my read is you still need to paint your hull to prevent osmosis on fiberglass hulls and as an Anti-Corrosive on steel or aluminum hulls. That would indicate some epoxy barrier layers not AF cuz we all know that wouldn't work don't we?. Now if you want to waste your money and buy the sonic hoopla while you already have a good anti-fouling go right ahead.

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Actually they are just recommending a barrier coat, not an AF, although they say some owners opt for both.

 

No, they recommend anti fouling paint as protection against blistering, which of course is complete bullshit. From the Sonihull FAQ page:

 

Will i still need to paint my boat with antifouling paint?
Painting the hull is not only for purpose of antifouling. it is also an important waterproofing barrier, protecting the gel coat from the effects (and immense cost) of osmosis. Therefore we would still recommend that the boat is protected under the water line.
And the retardation doesn't stop there:

...some yacht owners who have installed the sonihull system have opted to use a harder grade of antifouling paint, as apposed to the soft self polishing versions which have a higher drag factor through the water.

The high school dropout spelling and grammar errors in the quoted passages are just the icing on the cake.

To start off with I'm totally not sold on this item. I read the same thing so we can agree to disagree on what this means FB. It is certainly poorly worded but my read is you still need to paint your hull to prevent osmosis on fiberglass hulls and as an Anti-Corrosive on steel or aluminum hulls. That would indicate some epoxy barrier layers not AF cuz we all know that wouldn't work don't we?. Now if you want to waste your money and buy the sonic hoopla while you already have a good anti-fouling go right ahead.

 

I don't know where you get anything about a barrier coat from the Sonihull FAQ. It is never mentioned. Further, the FAQs specifically say that anti fouling paint provides protection from blisters. I don't understand how that escapes anybody reading them.

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Actually they are just recommending a barrier coat, not an AF, although they say some owners opt for both.

 

No, they recommend anti fouling paint as protection against blistering, which of course is complete bullshit. From the Sonihull FAQ page:

 

Will i still need to paint my boat with antifouling paint?
Painting the hull is not only for purpose of antifouling. it is also an important waterproofing barrier, protecting the gel coat from the effects (and immense cost) of osmosis. Therefore we would still recommend that the boat is protected under the water line.
And the retardation doesn't stop there:

...some yacht owners who have installed the sonihull system have opted to use a harder grade of antifouling paint, as apposed to the soft self polishing versions which have a higher drag factor through the water.

The high school dropout spelling and grammar errors in the quoted passages are just the icing on the cake.

To start off with I'm totally not sold on this item. I read the same thing so we can agree to disagree on what this means FB. It is certainly poorly worded but my read is you still need to paint your hull to prevent osmosis on fiberglass hulls and as an Anti-Corrosive on steel or aluminum hulls. That would indicate some epoxy barrier layers not AF cuz we all know that wouldn't work don't we?. Now if you want to waste your money and buy the sonic hoopla while you already have a good anti-fouling go right ahead.

 

My Bad FB. However poorly written that FAQ was this is straight out of the brochure "Sonihull and Oceanic are ...Antifoul products that work alongside conventional antifoul paints with additional benefits." My apologies.

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No need to apologize. Let's just agree that the makers of Sonihull have either a very flawed perception of how anti fouling paint works or they are intentionally attempting to cover their asses while peddling an ineffective product.

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Micron 66 nothing better

in water 12months, no cleanings just a very thin "slime" outstanding!

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Dash34 - I am just down the way from you and in my entire life being around sailboats I have never heard your 'dark bottoms bad' theory. Interesting. Of course our old theory was 'Yacht Club near CanOxy chemical plant = no growth' so I guess times change!

 

I used to do CSC Shark white on my last boat but this boat I have gone with Petit Horizons, in black, and I get much less growth than I did with CSC. I still rub it every week anyways, and they both last about two years like that. I would probably go white if they had it, but the Horizons is winning over the CSC for me.

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I have never found any particular color of a given product to have any advantage over another. They all foul the same and I have certainly never found herring to favor one over another. Not saying that isn't possible, but I've never found it to be the case.

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Dash34 - I am just down the way from you and in my entire life being around sailboats I have never heard your 'dark bottoms bad' theory. Interesting. Of course our old theory was 'Yacht Club near CanOxy chemical plant = no growth' so I guess times change!

 

I used to do CSC Shark white on my last boat but this boat I have gone with Petit Horizons, in black, and I get much less growth than I did with CSC. I still rub it every week anyways, and they both last about two years like that. I would probably go white if they had it, but the Horizons is winning over the CSC for me.

There were usually a few boats in False Creek that got it every year. Unless all the herring have died off.... I know a couple race boats that had it happen but I haven't lived over there since '94. The theory was that herring choose dark coloured objects to attach their spawn to so they remain hidden from predators.

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When the herring come in and slime a marina around here, they seem to be pretty indiscriminate about their targets.

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Micron 66 nothing better

in water 12months, no cleanings just a very thin "slime" outstanding!

 

It should be for the price.

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