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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.
Alcatraz5768

Alcatraz

290 posts in this topic

Hi team. We bought Alcatraz just before Easter last year. It is a race boat from 1982 and was built with full length wings for hiking assistance. When we bought the boat we were aware of some keel dramas (it had an alloy stub with lead semi bulb) and planned to design and fit a new keel this winter. Since sailing the boat a bit we decided to remove the wings as they didn't suit the racing we were doing, sailing with 5-6 peeps instead of the required 10 for human ballast. My wife also decided the boats cockpit was too deep as she is a short arse, so a new cockpit is in order. So we lifted the boat on Friday and spent 4 hours on Saturday dropping the keel, lifting the rig out and chainsawing the wings off. I am hoping to keep you all updated with our progress, or lack thereof. We have decided to do a nice job without turning it into a piece of furniture (cough cough FOP) so we can take the kids cruising this summer. To this end, i am after any tips or tricks to speed things up, as i know there is a wealth of info on this board.

 

Davepost-97971-0-09420600-1394436522_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-59533000-1394436582_thumb.jpg

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I just remembered a repair i did just prior to christmas which will hopefully illustrate the time constraints i am under. We have 4 kids and i am in the process of expanding my business so i am limited to one day every weekend and some evenings. Having said that i have been rushing everything in my life for the last 10 years so i am used to getting a lot done in a short amount of time.

 

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That's a very interesting boat!

I wish you'd left the wings, those are kind of unique (or maybe not, since I'm newish to sailing and racing and don't know shit).

 

I hear you about the rushing thing. Be careful though, as that path leads to mistakes and repeat-work.

 

Good luck, and I look forward to more progress photos.

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Quite a few people have said I should leave them, however when I said that I could remove them in one piece so they could fit them to their own boat they declined rapidly. The problem is the boat could only heel to about 15 degs and then the wing dug in and slowed the boat a great deal. At the end of the day, if they are so awesome , why was I the only boat in the marina with them?

 

I worked out a long time ago that the last 3% takes about 150% more time and I'm the only one who notices it. Therefore 97% is fine for me

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By the way, my boat was built by the same yard as Flirt of Paget, I think just after it.

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Quite a few people have said I should leave them, however when I said that I could remove them in one piece so they could fit them to their own boat they declined rapidly. The problem is the boat could only heel to about 15 degs and then the wing dug in and slowed the boat a great deal. At the end of the day, if they are so awesome , why was I the only boat in the marina with them?

 

I worked out a long time ago that the last 3% takes about 150% more time and I'm the only one who notices it. Therefore 97% is fine for me

 

There is wisdom in what you say. I didn't know that the wings dug into the water, that would definitely be slow.

 

Good luck! :)

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A new cockpit is in order as the old one is out of date and too deep for my wife. I will be building in glass/foam/glass sole with glass/ply/glass sides and seats etc. She is tiller steered and we will be putting 2 hatches in the floor and 2 each side for storage when cruising.

 

I have had a look at the cockpit of a j111 and it looks like a good compromise between racing and cruising but have never sailed on one. Obviosly the tiller vs wheel will change the dynamics a little and i would like any input from sailers of the 111. I had thought of just a wide, shallow race style cockpit. but it will not help the resale value.

 

The rudder stock is about 350mm from the transom and the traveller goes across the floor in front of the tiller. The clutches are on the hatch cover in the centre of the companion way and the vang and downhaul will be each side in cam cleats. We have runners and a topmast backstay.

 

Any input from you guys who have sailed on a particularly well set up boat this size will help.

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I got the keel home yesterday, via the weigh station (1360kg) which gives us about a 31% ballast ratio if the boat is in cruise mode, both anchors, full tanks etc. I cleaned up one side which showed the new sheer line to be nice and fair. There is a stringer under the deck which makes me believe that there was a plan at one stage to do this. We will add to this to form a 40x70 gunwale then plank up the sides.

 

I noticed that the stern has a little "hook" in the bottom (about 8mm 400 from the transom) and was wondering wether to fair it out or leave it. My first thought was to get rid of it, however it does motor extremely well without squatting, in fact if I'm by myself the wake cleans up as if planing. Maybe it doesn't hurt.

 

post-97971-0-08226500-1395554547_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-78882500-1395554681_thumb.jpg

 

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More progress. I have cleaned up the port side and glued in the new gunwale. I have even got the scarf ready on the hull ply. Im sure that that is a record for me, from boat arriving home to gluing in new timber in only a few weeks.

 

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I found some pics of us removing the wings. Nothing attracts a crowd in a boatyard like starting a chainsaw.

 

post-97971-0-67680700-1396769840_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-96709400-1396769851_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-05102500-1396769861_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-48768600-1396769873_thumb.jpg

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The port side has had the new topside planking ( in ply in fairness) all scarfed and glued in. Pics to follow.

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Do you use the yellow inflatable to row out to her in the yard each day?!



Work looks good btw! Interested to see how things progress

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Yellow inflatable is called 'pelly' the kids had it out to play pirates.

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The answer to why other boats don't have them is that other boats are not designed to need them. The wings on this boat were a part of the overall design concept, which was to create a narrow and light boat (which has low drag, but little stability) and endow it with stability from the leverage of rail meat on the wings. There have been other boats designed around this concept such as the Moore 30 and Kiwi 35.

 

By removing the wings, I think you will find the boat very tender, even with bodies stacked on the rail, due to the narrow beam. You may end up wanting to shorten the mast and sail area. But who knows, give it a whirl.

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Alcatraz ya got gonads...time and so on...have at it, keep us posted? We who have already been there and keep going back love the company. And, bet the neighbors are buying tripods...gotta love it.

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The boat isn't particularly narrow ( just over 10 feet) and we are going to increase the draft to about 9 feet with a new T keel to help compensate. The boat appears to have been built with this mod in mind as there is a stringer under the deck in exact ally the right place for the gunwale. I will keep you posted.

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What an interesting boat. I can't wait to see the finished product.

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I remember this boat when it was new - quite an interesting concept with the wings but it did seem to have its drawbacks. I think the idea of the 'hook' in the stern was, according to an article/interview with the designer, was that it would push the bow down when reaching/running, which was then designed to have sufficient volume to 'lift' out, thus the boat planing earlier. So the theory goes. Sounds like it helps it motor well at least. Should be a good performer without the wings and a new keel.

 

Here's some shots of her during original construction circa 1984.

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I am very likely clouded, but seems to me last year or year before, in a Chi/Mackinaw or CA race, a boat with "wings" capsized and a crewman perished, so the design was banned...not being catty here, it stuck in my mind that the group which banned that design more or less had their collective head in a very dark place.

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Thanks for those pics Richard. The boat was originally red which I have found under many coats of paint. That yard would have been in Wairau road from memory, and then they moved to constellation drive? Then to Gulf Harbour. Quite a few people thought the wings were an add-on but this proves otherwise.

 

This is why I love Sailing Anarchy.

 

Bb, the original design of my boat called for a very light keel as the righting moment was supplied from crew weight. I have heard stories of the boat lying on its side and not coming back up until sails were released, after which she gained a heavier keel. I think the Kiwi 35s are probably under ballasted for this reason which is why they aren't great at self righting. One of the reasons we are removing the wings is because of that possibility, as it's mainly a cruiser with young kids on board.

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Dig that. Looks better too. Love the idea and your temerity. Rock on.

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Haha good to see the chainsaw in action! Looks like an awesome job so far, I'll have to come and check it out.

Cheers Andy

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You're more than welcome any time Mr H. Just let me know so i can chill a few beers down.

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Cool I might head over this weekend, I'll let ya know. I better get over there soon, the rate your going it'll be back in the water before I know it

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I'm building a shelter for the old girl at the moment so we can get stuck in. Dark now but ill get some photos up in the next few days.

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post-97971-0-74434100-1400394940_thumb.jpgjust finished the shed. Its reinforcing mesh, bent over and covered with an old billboard skin.

 

Cheers dave

 

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Starboard side all planked up finally. Hoping to get hull deck join glassed this weekend so we can start on the hull fairing. The cockpit should also be started in the next fortnight. It's good to get back into it after a few weeks of bone idleness.

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Big job...rocks...please keep posting, as time permits. I have smaller project but me jealous.

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i figured that i would make a glass cutting table. i don't have much room in the garage so i made a fold up one, hopefully it works as it should.

post-97971-0-14761700-1402814492_thumb.jpg

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post-97971-0-18258500-1403412788_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-86119200-1403412817_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-16527600-1403412830_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-27202800-1403412839_thumb.jpgGlass table works mint. We glassed the new hull planking and the hull deck join today at last. 10oz boat cloth over the ply and 600gsm double bias over the corner, topped off with peel ply. Went remarkably well with little sticky mess, good to have good help, and fun talking shit at the same time. Taken photo of rough plan of proposed cockpit, hatches in the floor for storage, 2 options for topmast backstay routing. the mainsheet and fine-tune will be going to swivel cleats on the floor, dedicated runner winches. the blue lines with ends between winches etc are roughly the width of a person, so the runner trimmer and driver will go behind the coaming, with genoa trimmer and main trimmer in front but behind winch with grinder in front of genoa winch. Open to suggestions

 

 

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Flip the shed roof over, white down, so we can see better.

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You are not messing around...big job. Epoxy or poly? Just curious, might have missed if above.

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Hey Dex, we put it that way up out of consideration for the neighbours so it wasn't too ugly. I've got to set the lights up in there this week so I'll take more pics. All epoxy BB as polyester doesn't have the same adherence to timber.

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Kewl...I was wondering...also best on poly...very good.

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making up the disposable moulds tonight for the cockpit floor hatches. always grates a little to spend a heap of time on something knowing it'l be in the bin in a week.

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hatch gutter moulds glued up. I cut the corners with 2 hole saws then cut them through on the table saw. i will clean these up, then cover with self adhesive release membrane (packaging tape) then lay up the gutters with 4 layers of 600gsm biaxial and double bias glass with an external flange. i will bag it at the same time as the hatch lids if i can find a melamine cover sheet to use as a table.

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Hey mate, looks like this thing had its wings cut off too....

Looks to be a trend??

I'll have to get over to yours for a ganda. How did the tent stand up to that big blow we had?

post-105643-0-22344000-1404120700_thumb.jpg

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The frame was fine but the cover ended up in the neighbours yard. All the hatches are out too which sucked.

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post-97971-0-10743500-1404450506_thumb.jpgFoam and hatch gutters all layer out for glass tomorrow. The gutters are 4 layers of 400gsm double bias with a flange around the top (on the bottom here). They will be coved and glassed into the bottom layers of glass tomorrow then flipped and the top glassed on Sunday with any luck. The flange will tie into the top layer of glass. I will put only one layer of glass on the top at this stage then go over the whole lot when the cockpit sides etc are in there. Keeps fairing to a minimum i hope.

 

 

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post-97971-0-27408300-1405139874_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-51017000-1405139883_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-76864700-1405139922_thumb.jpgOnly a week late to get to this point. will be trimmed up tomorrow, yay.

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What provision have you got for draining your hatch channels?

Im doing exactly the same job now and was just pondering that very point..

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If you have a look in the middle photo, I have glassed in some 28mm carbon tubes as I had some in the garage. The big hatch drains to the front of the smaller ones ant they are joined together by a drain and also drain out either side. I'll take some better pics tomorrow when I flip it. There will also be a rubber bulb seal around the top of the gutter moulding to form a positive seal against the bottom of the hatch. Again detail pics tomorrow.

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post-97971-0-32109400-1405220935_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-40980600-1405220942_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-65587700-1405220948_thumb.jpgMounted cockpit sides to floor today and marked out cut out on boat. Sanded one side of the hull when i got sick of getting sticky.

 

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Amazing...good efforts under skies to match.

 

Midwest rain (USA) has been crimping my crafting.

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Yeah the weather sucks here at the moment as well, windy and rainy.

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Ok... I know It was late April when I said I was coming over to have a look, but between racing and fixing my own boat it hasn't happened.

Are you around this Saturday? Early afternoon??

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post-97971-0-34152900-1406440642_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-76615000-1406440650_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-61319400-1406440656_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-14720400-1406440663_thumb.jpgI got busy again today with the skil saw. We're pretty comitted now with the cockpit job as theres a 4m x 1.8m hole in the boat. We should get the seats fitted into the new one this week, if the foam turns up.

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Progress report. Since last Sunday i have chopped more out then added the seating panels for the cockpit sole to glue down onto, to save me from lying under the cockpit tabbing above my head with glass. i also got the hull and deck extensions scarfed in and tonight i cut out the new transom. My goal this week is to get the transom glassed in and add the carbon unis for the topmast and running backstay blocks. I think the new transom looks cool as shit. I have added some photo showing the tip I'm wring in at the moment, can't have progress without some sacrifices.

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post-97971-0-28993700-1407562321_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-36694100-1407562338_thumb.jpgBeen a slow week due to a throat infection, still managed to slide the new cockpit in to get the seat backs etc done. getting pretty excited now, its so much better than the old one. Yay.

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Looks cool, nice work. Wish I had skills like that. Hopefully see you out on the Gulf this summer.

 

Phill

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Thanks Filthy, your kind words drive me on. My wife's mean words also spur me when needed. If all goes to plan, the paint prep will be completed by the end of September and the paint done by mid October. Then it's just a million other things to do.

 

Cheers Dave.

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post-97971-0-44824200-1409465455_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-56857500-1409465459_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-76723100-1409465464_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-08132000-1409465471_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-94984300-1409465476_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-78798700-1409465482_thumb.jpgAnother slow week, however i did manage to get hold of some foam for the cockpit seats which i layed up mid last week. They were fitted and glassed in yesterday, but all i got done today was the carbon stem head fitting. It consists of 16 layers of uni carbon (1/2 of which are splayed out at approx 6 degrees) with unit andnd 54 layers of double bias glass wrapped around the front. The units extend 800mm down the stem. I can't see it going anywhere.

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Been a bit slow here, middle of winter and all. The designer came and had a look over the boat regarding the new keel and said that in order to have a rebate in the bottom and allow support for the deeper and heavier fin and bulb, we need to block in between the stringers and floors out to the bunk fronts. We cleaned 20 years of oily scum from beneath the alloy support plate, which has been removed, then prepped the timber. We then slid in 52 little blocks on a glue slurry, which had holes drilled through them and forced more glue in with syringes. Then we glued in another 70 blocks in between the laminated floors. Next step is to glue in some long lengths of timber up to the new floor level then a piece of ply over the top. We will then glass it to the bunk fronts leaving a solid chunk of wood 900mm x 2000mm x about 150mm thick. A lot of little blocks.

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Done heaps. New concrete driveway, new front fence, new landscaping, new automated gates, remodeled master bedroom, kitted out another work van, new bifold doors in the lounge. Oh you ment the boat, nothing of note except recasting the keel into a bulb that's up from 1215 to 1377 kgs. Wife's turn for some projects.

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post-97971-0-26567700-1415513640_thumb.jpgpost-97971-0-29651300-1415513642_thumb.jpgNew bulb. Hopefully its going to be slipprier than a silicon coated eel in a bucket of snot.

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Thanks Roger. Progress will be pretty slow now till Christmas due to work pressures. You'll be the first to know if any more happens.

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Look forward to future posts; when you have a chainsaw in your hand - thats proper modding!

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Look forward to future posts; when you have a chainsaw in your hand - thats proper modding!

Kiwis certainly know how to do modifications with a chainsaw!

 

There is another refit of a Ross 930 currently happening, where the chainsaw has been used along the centre line of the hull.

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Chainsaws are way underrated. How do you think I separated the lead from the alloy fin? Like a hot knife through butter.

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The 930 project sounds interesting, which one is it Rush.

FNG has it on the operation table.

 

Dark blue hull, ended up on the rocks, was on trade me for a long time.

 

FNG has been dismantling it for awhile, aiming for the SSANZ series next year was the last I heard.

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"Recreation" is the 930 under the knife/chainsaw

That is it.

 

Thanks ON TILT

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I remember seeing it at pier 21 just after it happened. Very sad end to a boat that was raced a lot and did very well. We used to race against it all the time when Ken owned it, but I didn't realise that Dusty Millar I think owned it when it went on the bricks. I used to race with him on Eliphunk and Summer Magic a lot.

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I have been back out to the shed in the last week finally. After getting a bunch of stuff done on the house, I was given permission to crack on with the boat. Last weekend we lifted the cockpit out and removed the engine for a tickle up.

 

The bottom of the cockpit was glassed and filled so we can paint it to undercoat stage before it gets glued in.

 

Tonight I mounted the tubes for the composite chainplates for the runners and topmast backstay, then wrapped carbon unis over them and tied them into the transom and wrapped around onto the hull bottom. In retrospect I could have done without the wrapping onto the hull but it's done now.

 

It's good to be getting back into it.

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Hah, i thought i had been given a reprieve from house stuff, i should have known better. Latest progress has been to fill the hull, ready for sanding later this week, sanded all the nonskid off, primed bottom of cockpit, removed saildrive and engine, fitted new front hatch etc. I am just doing 2 or 3 small things every weeknight, and i usually get a full day in the weekend so getting through it.

 

I tell you it feels good to be back out in the shed.

 

Dave

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Are you going to re-install the saildrive, or employ a different sort of auxiliary, or simply forgo propulsion altogether?

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Funny question Ajax, my last boat had such an unreliable engine we just to sail it in and out of the marina as a matter of course. Once after sailing out, doing a race and sailing back in, a new crew member popped down stairs and fired up the engine. He said he looked out into the cockpit, where the rest of us were, to see us all staring at each other in amazement. Hadn't even tried it in weeks.

 

In answer to your question, the old engine was a marinised Daihatsu charade diesel engine mated to a volvo leg. We are reconditioning a Yanmar 3gm30fsd to go in there. In reality the Daihatsu engine is a great little unit, powerful and light, however if I ever want to sell the boat it makes it harder, and the Yanmar was a good deal.

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You're going to cut in a shaft log and install a conventional diesel and shaft configuration, or you're going to put the Yanmar on a saildrive leg?

Sorry, maybe that's an ignorant question.

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No such thing as a stupid question. We are going to fit the yanmar with saildrive into the volvo saildrive bed. The bed is already installed and they both mount in very similar ways. Much easier than converting to shaft drive.

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Sanding today. Shithouse.

If theres one thing i wont miss, its sanding. Nothing like getting out the shower and still itching like fuck!

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I do admire your ability to make such rapid progress. I wish I had your time/skills/confidence level.

...and Roger's too! Have you seen his Centaur joinery work? Top-shelf.

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Rogers joinery work is amazing. I t is not an admirable trait that I have to rush everything. At this point in my life, I'm building my new business up (100% growth 3 years in a row), still remodeling the house, 4kids, and the boat, so everything I do is in a hurry, so I suppose I've gotten good at it. I wish I had the time and temperament to be able to potter but not at this point. Quite tired of being tired.

 

Btw more sanding on the topsides.

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Good productive long weekend. More fairing on the topsides, glassed in inside of transom, pushpit spigots, rear stanchion spigots, glude remaining lands and doublers for the cockpit, glued in locker and cleat drains and exhaust pipe. Bored out hole in the bottom for the new rudder stock, sanded the undercoat on the bottom of the cockpit to a finish ready for topcoat.

Finally today we glued in the cockpit which feels like a massive step. In preparation for this we glued and screwed in doublers where the ply sides meet the bulkheads and ply lands where the composite sole meets the bulkheads. This process takes longer to prep than coving and tabbing the joints and is a little heavier, however the last step only took 3 hours to fit the whole thing, and no glassing in awkward lockers and above my head. Of course the outside will all be glassed with a combination of boatcloth for durability and DB for strength.

Now there's just lots of sanding and filling, but it feels like we made a leap this weekend.

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Looking great so far. When I was looking at the thumbnail photos, I thought "Why is he photoshopping lightning bolts into the photos?" Now I see that they are strings of lights!

Funny.

 

Regarding the business, home and family- It sounds like you have the proverbial 20lbs. of shit in a 10lb. sack, but you seem to handle it well. It's hard to complain about having too much work in this global economy.

 

I'm looking forward to seeing the new keel, when you get that far.

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Those light ropes give a good amount of light along the gunwale where ive been working even if they look stupid. Thanks for the kind works Ajax

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Not much to report, last weekend was a wash as wifey was out of town so i was looking after the kiddies. Yesterday i spent an hour radiusing corners etc in the cockpit, and an hour today glassing the cockpit sole to the transom and the last of the carbon on for the backstays.

 

 

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Glassed the rest of the cockpit yesterday afternoon, put the heater on, then went out again at about 10 and rolled a filler coat over it all to give me some more sanding over the weekend. Yay.

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Too cold for sanding (bog wasn't hard enough) so i whacked the rudder tube in, and doweled the old keelbolt holes, and machined the top of the floor reinforcement timber flat. There is always a bit of a problem trying to glue in things like the dowels into the old holes as when you push the rod in it pushes out the glue and leaves a dry joint. To solve that i made the dowels octagonal, and before i put them in, i pushed up a blob of glue into the holes and screwed a piece of scrap onto the bottom of the stub. I then pushed the dowel into the holes then trickled neat resin around the rods, ensuring they were glued all the way down. Same with the rudder tube, machined out the foam around the hole in the cockpit sole, filled it with glue, put the tube in, then coved and glassed the tube to the bottom of the cockpit sole. Then trickled neat resin around the small gap (1-2mm) between the glue and the tube. No voids.

 

I also screed-ed the transom and the cockpit seats with filler. The technique i'm using on the flat surfaces (transom, cockpit floor, cockpit seats etc) that have been glassed with laps and other irregularity's, is to trowel on the filler and scrape a straightedge over the top, wiping the excess off. Next day (or 2or 3 days with the weather like it is) i run the planetary sander over it with 40 grit to take the top off, then run a trowel of filler back over it. Another sand with 80 grit, and job done. The first screed gives it the right shape, and the second fills in the pull marks etc, and means you can get a nice flat surface with little or no longboard sanding.

The other thing that works for me is to do all the flat surfaces and convex curves to 80grit finish before coving the concave corners, this makes the corners much easier to get fair.

 

Dave

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How are you going to paint it when it's all done? Any favorite products?

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I'm going to use a basf 2k commercial paint as a bit of an experiment for a friend of mine. Similar to what they use for trucks and buses. I am going to spray it using a new lvlp gun so I can use a standard compressor.

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Wow, I'm interested in seeing how that turns out!

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I'm going to use a basf 2k commercial paint as a bit of an experiment for a friend of mine. Similar to what they use for trucks and buses. I am going to spray it using a new lvlp gun so I can use a standard compressor.

care to share the model of your lvlp and your compressor? I've been looking for something for a while now.

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Yer boats looking pretty killer 'traz, if its any consolation i've been filling and fairing this recently:

 

WP_004606.jpg

 

All 43ft of her, from top to bottom!

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I'm going to use a basf 2k commercial paint as a bit of an experiment for a friend of mine. Similar to what they use for trucks and buses. I am going to spray it using a new lvlp gun so I can use a standard compressor.

 

care to share the model of your lvlp and your compressor? I've been looking for something for a while now.

 

I'm going to use a basf 2k commercial paint as a bit of an experiment for a friend of mine. Similar to what they use for trucks and buses. I am going to spray it using a new lvlp gun so I can use a standard compressor.

 

care to share the model of your lvlp and your compressor? I've been looking for something for a while now.

Gun is a Sprayit sp33000 gun from amazon of all places. I also got a couple of different tip sizes. Compressor choice is between my unknown one or my dad has a bigger unit I can bludgeon if needed. I'll let you know.

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Yer boats looking pretty killer 'traz, if its any consolation i've been filling and fairing this recently:

 

WP_004606.jpg

 

All 43ft of her, from top to bottom!

Have a look here. http://www.bpspecialprojects.com/PDF%20FILES/FAIRING.PDF

 

 

Cheers traz thats a great article, people after my own heart where application and process are concerned, i work with blokes at the moment who are of the school of chucking on buckets (and i mean buckets) of fairing compound, its funny i got told my work was poor as lumps and bumps showed up when one boat was awlgripped, however when i pointed out that they were priming and topcoating what was my first 'hit' of fairing compound it all got quiet. I guess different people do things different ways eh?

 

look forward to seeing yer boat painted, like the clean detail of the cockpit too.

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Did the first screed on the cockpit sole, and second scrape over the transom. The photo doesn't show very well but the transom is within about 0.5mm of flat. Also started the foot chocks, tomorrow i'll turn them over and shape them and glass the top of them.

 

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More bogging, more sanding. Woo fucking Hoo. The best advice i can give to anyone doing this is buy some good quality noise cancelling headphones, and put on your favorite music.

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Added the toerails, spigots for the pullpit, foot chocks in the cockpit. Still to glass them all, then filler coat, then im lucky enough to get to do more sanding.

The other day i sanded a foot of antifoul off around the bottom of the topsides, and under the waterline, used a 9" polisher with 40# discs, still took over 2 hours and left me with rubber band arms.

 

I had to move the pulpit forward from where i wanted it to meet cat 3 requirements.

 

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