Alcatraz5768

Alcatraz

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On 4/6/2014 at 5:08 PM, Alcatraz5768 said:

I found some pics of us removing the wings. Nothing attracts a crowd in a boatyard like starting a chainsaw.

 

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My 1st boss had this saying:

"We have 2 rules with power tools. No drinking & no holding hands".

I figure I've saved a few people's limbs over the years repeating it to people doing stupid shite with tools. The point is if you can do something by yourself. Do it by yourself. The chance you will hurt the other person or yourself goes up exponentially when using tools in close proximity. Watching one person holding onto a board with another guy pushing a circular saw towards them makes me feel ill and angry at the same time.

You've got one of the dumbest photos of all time. 

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1 hour ago, monsters inc said:

It's a small chainsaw, lighten up . 

 

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I've used a lot of power tools over the last 25 years, and the advice that was given to me was that power tools smell fear, that stuck with me. My mate in the photo and I have known each other since we were 11yo, and done more dumb shit than most, and we still have all our limbs, so I suppose we are just lucky?

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On 2018-02-03 at 5:05 PM, CaptainAhab said:

You've got one of the dumbest photos of all time. 

Post pictures of your work. It's clear that Alcatraz knows what he's doing. 

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48 minutes ago, Will1073 said:

Post pictures of your work. It's clear that Alcatraz knows what he's doing. 

Wow. That is some brilliant logic. He could be hacking up Wild Oates for the 5th time and I would still make the same comment.

Yes, you have been lucky. Or I guess everyone else who gets hurt is unlucky. 

Forget I posted. Until you have seen, been hurt, or have hurt someone. Then you can learn the lesson and teach it to every other person you work with in the future.

Two of my friends are missing fingers. One is missing half his forearm and hand. These guys are all craftsman. I guess they were unlucky. 

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14 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Sorry for offending you, I suppose. 

That apology won't do. The only right thing to do is to put the wings back on and remove them properly.

preferably by yourself.

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Im back bitches. Bach is done (or as good as), truck has its new stereo and 4 link rear suspension, business is running ok, touch wood, so time for more boat work.

The engine has been painted, overhauled the raw water pump, got the head done, made a simple vee belt tensioner with more wrap on the alternator, ready for new front mounts. we are using a volvo bed with a Yanmar 3gm30, so new front mount leg thingys to be made to suit. I have a generator control unit to operate the engine which is small (3"x3") and controls and monitors everything, including a provision for a start/stop button in the cockpit.

Ive also ordered a bunch of conduit and waterproof plugs from ebay (china) for the boats loom. The idea is to measure out the needed wiring and lay it all out on the floor, then loom it all up with nice plugs on everything, then just drop it into the boat, plug it all in, and its all done. Crosses fingers.

More filling and sanding to be done inside before i can hopefully paint it over Easter.

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Painted cockpit floor hatches, glased the bottom of the anchor well lid, slowly gaining momentum. Yay me. 

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Good to see you moving forward again! Can't wait to see how it turns out and sails.

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glued in engine box. used triangular doublers for the corners but i'll have to glass around the top onto the cockpit sole and the sides. 

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gonna have plastic hatches on the back and sides and a removable panel on the front. cetus 25l fuel tank will live in there as well

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I've never seen a serpentine V-belt before.

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Look at the deck of any ride on mower. These engines suffer from not enough wrap on the alternater pulley resulting in slippage and black shit everywhere. I'm hoping that by getting nearly double the wrap I can eliminate the problem. If not I'll try something else. 

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The combination of the increased wrap, the spring loaded idler and the cogged belt means you won't ever see slippage unless something seizes solid.

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Fitted the new bunk backrests. Filleted all around the interior to get ready for paint, and discovered a better technique. In the past I have mixed the filler, spooned it into position, then dragged a shaped knife along it, then removed the excess. 

Todayi mixed the poo, scraped it into a plastic bag, cable tied the bag closed and cut the corner off and piped the bog into the corners. Then I used a gadget from the hardware store that is normally used for silicone fillets to do my coves. It has a rubber end (mine came with 5 sized fillets) that extends out a little way. I simply dragged it along and the rubber sides cleaned up each side of the fillet. 

Best discovery ever. Saved hours and gave me a much better finish. 

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painted the inside. hard to draw a line and pull the trigger when i know i could keep prepping it for another year. Wifey pointed out it is a 35yo race boat worth maybe 50k when it is done. I vacuumed it out and hosed on some paint. painted the bunk boards, hatch covers etc. sick to death of painting shit atm. 

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Whats the easiest way to reduce the file size of an image on an iPhone? If you say get a samsung i will put you on ignore.

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You cant natively do it in ios, get a 3rd part app like image size. 

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I believe you can email yourself the photos (through the mail app) and by doing so you can compress them. 

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For phone instructions? :D

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like a clothes line but for painting boat parts. 3 finishes, one session. 

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sent some bits off to get re anodised black so everything matches. bolted 12 new clutches on. 

this is hopefully the start of the end, feels like i'm on the downhill now. thank fuck for that. 

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On 5/22/2018 at 3:29 PM, Alcatraz5768 said:

like a clothes line but for painting boat parts. 3 finishes, one session. 

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Have the sheep gone on strike?

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8 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

sent some bits off to get re anodised black so everything matches. bolted 12 new clutches on. 

this is hopefully the start of the end, feels like i'm on the downhill now. thank fuck for that. 

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That's one serious clutch bank. You got one winch for the whole boat?

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On 3/7/2018 at 9:40 AM, Alcatraz5768 said:

Look at the deck of any ride on mower. These engines suffer from not enough wrap on the alternater pulley resulting in slippage and black shit everywhere. I'm hoping that by getting nearly double the wrap I can eliminate the problem. If not I'll try something else. 

Where did you get that idler/belt kit?  It looks like a nice setup and an easy upgrade.

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Hi Alex, I made that up myself, bought a tensioner, idler pulls from scrap yard and profile cut bracket. I'll let you know how good it is after I motor for a while with soft battery's. 

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5 hours ago, IStream said:

That's one serious clutch bank. You got one winch for the whole boat?

2 reefs, 2 jib hals, 2 kite hals, main hal, topping lift for pole,  inhauler and downhauler for floating leads, and 2 tack lines. Cunno, outhaul, downhaul will go to cam cleats and vang will be split to both sides. 

Seems a lot but I can't really get rid of anything. 

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16 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

The sheep are teenage boys so yeah it's a bit hit and miss. 

They miss the day you told them to mow, so you get to hit them upside the head to remind them ;)

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Oh you don't come from round here do you, if I cuff them, which they obviously need, I go to jail. 

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While I meant that tongue-in-cheek, it’s no different here. B)

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I was at a bottle store the other day and heard a guy say to his kid (who was running around a bit and being generally annoying, as they are) If you dont stop, you'll get a smack on the ass, when we get home. Funny

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Got stuck in today and jacked the boat up and slid an old shipping cradle under her. I will jack that up onto 44 gal drums so i can get to the keel stub area, which is the last big job, Yay me. Picked up the cradle from westhaven for free as they have to pay to get rid of them, not perfect but free!!

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just jacked the old gurl up and put it on drums. now i can get the bottom prepped for the new keel. i chainsawed the stub off but didn't take pics in case someone thought i was a cunt again. 

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Good story. Remember A when she was red and a really advanced racer( for the day.) What happened to designer Grant Firth ?

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When do we see the inside paint job?

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42 minutes ago, armchairadmiral said:

Good story. Remember A when she was red and a really advanced racer( for the day.) What happened to designer Grant Firth ?

Ive got pics of a double skin headsail that they tried on the boat, was designed and built by a sailboard guy i believe. She was pretty radical for her day especially considering most were still building IOR shitters. Hopefully she can be great again.

Grant Firth spends half his time here tutoring at Unitech with Richard Wilson (who built the boat) and half his time in the UK. Other notable designs are Kea, the devonport ferry and Silver Bullet, but everyone wants to forget that boat. Everyone.

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Alcatraz

Love this thread - thanks for sharing your boat and your story. I was sufficiently moved  to dust off my SA password to record my rather pointless thanks. It only happens once every 5 years. Signing in I mean,  not saying thanks...

Great job, I used to admire the old Alcatraz sailing past me. I look forward to seeing  her do so again, in her altogether more svelte reincarnation.

Unlikely you are a cunt. 

 

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Oh I'm a cunt alright. One of my theory's is that we are all cunts, good cunt, old cunt, cheeky cunt etc. 

we will be having a massive relaunch party to which all SA observers will be invited. I hope to see you there. 

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2 minutes ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Oh I'm a cunt alright. One of my theory's is that we are all cunts, good cunt, old cunt, cheeky cunt etc. 

we will be having a massive relaunch party to which all SA observers will be invited. I hope to see you there. 

Relaunch?

I was thinking that you were making a garden ornament after discovering the cost of a berth at Westhaven

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West haven cost is a shit ton however it's only expensive because there's nowhere else. Where else would I keep it?  Just have to suck it up. 

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Sooooo.i built a bowsprit. it was fixed at 1.4m and had a stick inside it that slid out another 1m. All good except i hated the look of it, its been sitting in the shed unloved for ages and every time i look at it i hate it a little more. Just called my favorite carbon tube supplier and bought a 3.2m stick of 100mm tube and a bigger one to glue into the hull, gonna chop a hole in the front and make a retractable sprit. The only problem is the tube for the sprit has a 6mm wall which is about twice as heavy as it needs to be, but it is cheap as it has a few blemishes on it. To get a 3mm wall section would save about 4.5kg but cost about $1500 more, which will go a long way towards a new A2. This is what this shit is all about, compromises, and I've removed the anchor winch, so all good i suppose. 

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glassed up a plate 4mm thick and a bit larger than the keel top plate and glued it into a rebate i made in the bottom. i will soon fair the rebate out to the sides and laminate 1x triax and 2x unis across the bottom and over the glass plate. then i will glue in my socket (bagging in photo) and fill in each side with foam and timber, then another 2 triax over and onto the flanges on the socket. then fair it all out and bore the holes. one time mould is covered in masking tape then the peel ply was glued on with a bit of spray glue. 

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What gear did you end up using for painting inside

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bought a couple of fans and fired one out the sailsrive hole and one out the cockpit hatch. made baffles in the engine box hatch and rear opening out of spray booth filter. made an intake filter out of cheesecloth over the fwd door opening and shot it using a standard suction gun. 

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overhead glassing was way easier than i thought. i set up 2 ropes around the boat, one each end of the area, tensioned with bungys, then rolled the glass around a cardboard tube. i then rolled resin over the bottom of the boat and hooked the rolled up glass under (over?) the ropes and started rolling it onto the resin with a glass roller. worked from one side to the other and rolled it out as i went. 4 times. one db and 3 unis. then peelply. 

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this is the keel socket glued into place. i'll glue foam around it and glass over it and onto the visible flange. 

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got all the glass on the bottom, not as hard as i thought. first layer of bog on. this layer is just a scrape over the whole thing, next process is to run the big disc sander over it and use a long batten fore and aft to scrape another layer of filler on. then a quick sand again, with the planetary sander, then another scrape over with a shorter softer batten athwartships. then a quick once over the whole bottom with the planetary sander and 80# then roll or spray an undercoat on. then another sand with 180# ready for antifoul. 

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Why go to 180 before AF?

I've never found finer than 80 to be worthwhile - the paint is so thick it fills 80 scratches.

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because if i hit it with 80# i'll smash through the undercoat to fast. i'll try 80# first by all means. 

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Pass the Tylenol, my f**king shoulders ache and I get a crick in my neck just looking at those pics!

(nice job though...keep it going!)

;)

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This bit sucks alright. Nice and motivated at the moment though so I can push through. Funny but when the mood strikes, I can happily crouch under there with my headphones in and grind, and cut and glass for hours, when I'm not in the mood though and have to get under there and get it done it's just drudgery. 

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Have you ever tried the square disc sander for fairing, I never have but they reckon it works really well

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Used to use a hydraulic fairing paddle machine thingy. Had a hydraulic power pack, with 30' hoses to a motor with 4 floating paddles with a diameter of about 600-700 mm. Was terrifying but pretty effective on big surfaces. Never tried a square pad, but I've spent a lot of hours hanging onto grinders. 

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I've always been too much of a wimp to try a square pad - those things look like they could break your arm in a heartbeat.

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On 7/2/2018 at 11:22 PM, Alcatraz5768 said:

overhead glassing was way easier than i thought. i set up 2 ropes around the boat, one each end of the area, tensioned with bungys, then rolled the glass around a cardboard tube. i then rolled resin over the bottom of the boat and hooked the rolled up glass under (over?) the ropes and started rolling it onto the resin with a glass roller. worked from one side to the other and rolled it out as i went. 4 times. one db and 3 unis. then peelply. 

ingenious. 

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boat bottom close enough, ran the planetary sander over the whole thing with 80 grit. check out the sketchiness i used to get under the front of the cradle, even i was a bit nervous. another sand today then lowered it back down onto the ground. 

feels like progress. 

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I have glued the studs into the Volvo  saildrive bed to match the Yanmar ring bolt pattern, ill paint the engine compartment tomorrow. I have a few things to do then a crew are turning up to help manhandle the engine in next Monday. Yay. 

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Fitting a Yanmar saildrive to a vulva bed. Pans out Yanmar legs are fatter than vulva ones. Every fucking thing. 

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4 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Fitting a Yanmar saildrive to a vulva bed. Pans out Yanmar legs are fatter than vulva ones. Every fucking thing. 

I thought vulvas liked fucking fatter things...Hope you get her sorted.

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5 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Fitting a Yanmar saildrive to a vulva bed. Pans out Yanmar legs are fatter than vulva ones. Every fucking thing. 

Yes, every fucking thing, but engines of different makes not dropping in place is as predictable as the sunrise. What gets me are the things that should work, are advertised to work, that others have gotten to work, but don't actually work on my boat for some stupid my-boat reason.

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Not really a drama, just adds a day. Grind the hole bigger, glass it then drop the leg in. I drilled the bed to the right pattern then glued studs in for the clamp ring. 

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Frame that picture, it'll never look better!

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I thought Yannies were silver...has this one gone to the “Dark Side?”

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I told my paint guy Yanmar grey and he gave me a darker charcoal colour. I'm not fussed. 

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This thread is fucking amazing.

Endurance, resourcefulness on exhibit here.

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Agreed. 

Apropos of nothing, whatever happened to Roger Ball and the world's nicest bilge keeler?

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On 8/16/2018 at 3:38 AM, Ajax said:

This thread is fucking amazing.

Endurance, resourcefulness on exhibit here.

Resourcefulness is the word. To get the engine in, we lifted it off the engine stand and onto the bed of my truck with an overhead hoist at my workshop. Then drove home and manhandled it onto a trolley and wheeled it down the lawn. We then stacked some timber blocks on the companionway and balanced the boom between the blocking and the garage roof (with about 2" at each end). We then used a wire winch thingy to lift the engine and trolley onto the step platform, then again into the cockpit. The engine was still on the trolley so we just rolled it up the cockpit, then lifted it with the winch again. It wasn't high enough to get over the sill so we slid a long plank under it and lifted it a few inches, then slid it and the winch system along the plank until it was over the sill and we could raise the aft end of the plank so the weight was again on the boom. Then it was just lower it down and slide it back. Took 3 of us about 45mins. Then we had a beer, well I had a RC cola. 

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47 minutes ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Resourcefulness is the word. To get the engine in, we lifted it off the engine stand and onto the bed of my truck with an overhead hoist at my workshop. Then drove home and manhandled it onto a trolley and wheeled it down the lawn. We then stacked some timber blocks on the companionway and balanced the boom between the blocking and the garage roof (with about 2" at each end). We then used a wire winch thingy to lift the engine and trolley onto the step platform, then again into the cockpit. The engine was still on the trolley so we just rolled it up the cockpit, then lifted it with the winch again. It wasn't high enough to get over the sill so we slid a long plank under it and lifted it a few inches, then slid it and the winch system along the plank until it was over the sill and we could raise the aft end of the plank so the weight was again on the boom. Then it was just lower it down and slide it back. Took 3 of us about 45mins. Then we had a beer, well I had a RC cola. 

This is one reason why a re-power intimidates me. Getting the old engine out and the new engine in. I see video of people using the boom all the time but it still freaks me out.

I hope a re-power is a long way off in my future.

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Ajax, how much force on the boom do you think your vang puts on it when sheeted hard?  Or the mainsheet for that matter?  You can always take the main halyard and tie it off somewhere along the boom to transfer load up the mast and to the forestay...same with the topping lift...

Or, if your goose neck allows the boom to pivot/angle up high enough, you can rig a block off the end of the boom, and rig as a "boom" crane, where main halyard is lifting engine, and topping lift is controlling boom angle, and thus distance of halyard from the mast (high angle for at the companion way, lower angle for setting down in cockpit, or swinging out and dropping over the side...

Think like and old time Boatswain's Mate :)

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On ‎8‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 11:37 PM, Ajax said:

This is one reason why a re-power intimidates me. Getting the old engine out and the new engine in. I see video of people using the boom all the time but it still freaks me out.

I hope a re-power is a long way off in my future.

if the rig is still in the boat then it's a doddle, lift is done with main halyard which controls up and down, fore and aft is controlled by running halyard through a block attached to a reef line and side to side is via mainsheet, pays to put a lazy preventer via spinnaker halyard to slow things down in case there's trouble (ie a quick exit through the bottom of the boat). did this removing a bukh20 from a stewart34 which had a starboard side companionway and dock was portside didn't tough a thing on the way through and went easily through in front of the traveller, biggest thrill was the floppy stewart rig as it went kerthunk and dragged the masthead over but even that was controllable and a happy landing right into the dockcart, have to say the older style Auckland dock carts were bloody strong as we wheeled it up the marina and up a ramp into the van and dropped the cart back later..... it does of course pay to do a bloody thorough check on the main halyard prior and the block on the reefline does need a loose lashing to keep it close to the boom

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Haul the boat and have the yard use their forklift.

I swapped a one-lung Yanmar at the dock and I wouldn't consider anything bigger.

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167149. We have done this many many times and still do it this way.  Now we just hook it up to the halyard and winch it up while one guy guides it as 95% of the load is vertical.  As you say, straight into the dock cart. 

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On 8/17/2018 at 4:37 AM, Ajax said:

This is one reason why a re-power intimidates me. Getting the old engine out and the new engine in. I see video of people using the boom all the time but it still freaks me out.

I hope a re-power is a long way off in my future.

I replaced my 40hp diesel in the lagoon, at anchor, in Koror, Palau. Dead diesel out with the boom and converted to a mooring anchor. New diesel off the ship, into a pickup truck, bamboo poles and 4 guys to the dinghy at the shore, out to the yacht (looked like a hotrod dinghy), into the boat with the boom. Easy.

Snatch block on boom with halyard led thru. No vertical weight on boom. Outhaul and opposing line to control position. Easy.

Shimmying out the boom to cut away the old engine was a bit dubious.

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tube glued in and the outside blocked and boxed in. i will glass it on the inside and in the anchor locker and against the hull. i will then lay up a seperate piece out of carbon unis that wrap around the stem and do a full wrap around the tube. i will probably do this piece as a seperate part then finish it and glue it on, if i do it on the boat it will look like a big horrible lump. 

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Do you have a target date for launching ? And do you mind me asking where you got the blank for your prod ?

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No real target date, depends on time, energy and weather at the moment. Carbon tubes came from Kilwell Fibertubes. Jason is amazingly helpful. 

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Well that's good to know cause someone told me kilwell had closed shop . Have you sorted how you will keep water from coming in the prod tube ? . I've heard of a clever setup on here that used a turbo induction pipe silicone reducer . Theres an outfit in silver dale that has every size combo imaginable , I reckon you would need to Mclube prod every now and again as you do 

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I have a bearing at the end of the prod and a bearing just in front of the anchor well bulkhead, so my plan was to drill a couple of holes in the bottom of the tube that will drain into the anchor well. I'm hoping that any water that can get past the first bearing will fall to the bottom of the tube before it gets to the next bearing and drain out. Time will tell, if that doesn't work your idea is genius. 

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Looking good. Obvious question: why'd you paint it before you added the tube?

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