Alcatraz5768

Alcatraz

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12 hours ago, IStream said:

"Luck favors the well-prepared"

Well.......the rudder fell off the stand while I was sanding it and landed across my toes on both feet, the chuck Taylor's didn't put up much of a fight. Tore the nail off one toe, and chipped a bone in my big right toe. Fuckety fuck. 

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On 7/11/2019 at 7:07 AM, hard aground said:

See...... lucky it didn't land on your cock eh?

You ain't never lie 

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11 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Lying where it fell. Fucking rudder. 

JFC, you're going to let a couple of dinged up foot phalanges slow you down? F'ing pussy, go pick that rutter up and get back to work! 

(Hope you're healing up and back to normal soon.)

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6 hours ago, casc27 said:

JFC, you're going to let a couple of dinged up foot phalanges slow you down? F'ing pussy, go pick that rutter up and get back to work! 

(Hope you're healing up and back to normal soon.)

fair nuf

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i pulled all the lines out of the mast and took the backstays off (don’t ask why it took me this long) and am running them through the wash. the dynex backstays we’re still green inside the weave so i’ve got them soaking in a bucket of wet and forget and i’ll wash them again next week. 

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Do you use the wet & forget straight or dilute it?  Does it provide any long term protection from mold?

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I've never used it on lines but it does an amazing job on cedar shakes and it lasts - I'm into my third years and there isn't any sign of green yet.

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Dilute it. On the house and driveway it is a yearly task. I use the one that clips onto the hose and it takes about half an hour to last everything. Works a treat on roller furled headsails as well. 

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6 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

fair nuf

The Gods of Making will have their tribute. It's not a proper shop day if I'm not bleeding somewhere.

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We call that idiot rash, and I'm not immune at all, but seeing the back edge of my toenail sticking up made me want to yak. I have gross pics if you want?

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2 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

We call that idiot rash, and I'm not immune at all, but seeing the back edge of my toenail sticking up made me want to yak. I have gross pics if you want?

Were you wearing safety jandals?

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6 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

We call that idiot rash, and I'm not immune at all, but seeing the back edge of my toenail sticking up made me want to yak. I have gross pics if you want?

pics or it didnt happen...

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2 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

One stars, like normal

One stars? 

Is that a variation of jandals? 

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Converse chuck Taylor one stars. A classic design but lacking in toe protection. 

 

Pics to follow. Warning, it's gross.  

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carbon bits came back from the painters. clear coat done in the booth. The stairs are staying inside till wifey kicks them out. they make me happy. 

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I think I'd put those stairs next to my fav chair for watching TV/movies and use it to hold my beer. (Are they stable enough for that?) And a "+1" for IStream's comment.

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chainplate covers. port one houses the vhf, switches, engine panel, etc. i made them the same size in case i wanted to put speakers in them.  

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Carbon over plywood? I'm a bit disappointed. Looks great, though. A lot of space in that stbd side unless you do add speakers.

And if you tell me that's just carbon print vinyl wrap over the ply I will come down to NZ and drop that rutter on your other foot!

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What's wrong with carbon over thin ply? For this kind of interior application I think it's great. Also great for thin shelving that won't sag.

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It's real carbon twill, with surfboard epoxy for uv protection then urethane clear over the top. It's only for looks to break up the white, so over ply made it easy and fast. Btw the whole boat is made of ply, so it would have made less sense to use anything else. (The cockpit sole is glass foam glass but everything else is ply including the hull)

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4 hours ago, hoppy said:

Does the carbon allow you to use a thinner ply?

Do you vacuum bag it?

Not really, it doesn't add much to the strength unless I put a skin on the inside.  didn't bag this as it's not structural. 

Its really only there because it's pretty. 

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4 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Not really, it doesn't add much to the strength unless I put a skin on the inside.  didn't bag this as it's not structural. 

Its really only there because it's pretty. 

So I guess if you were making these just from CF you would not need to bag them.

Been thinking I will be fun to try making some CF stuff. It's easy enough to find videos on how to do it, but it's not so clear as to what's the barest minimum to start with. I guess I'm best off practising with fibreglass twirl over ply and making moulds...

Normally when I start something I do it the expensive way and would probably waste money on the bagging gear.

At least I'd already figured out that I don't need an autoclave for CF  ;)

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23 hours ago, IStream said:

What's wrong with carbon over thin ply? For this kind of interior application I think it's great. Also great for thin shelving that won't sag.

Absolutely nothing. In fact I really like that it provided an opportunity to tease Alcatraz. The guy does nice work. Although he is a bit hard on his toes.

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8 hours ago, hoppy said:

So I guess if you were making these just from CF you would not need to bag them.

Been thinking I will be fun to try making some CF stuff. It's easy enough to find videos on how to do it, but it's not so clear as to what's the barest minimum to start with. I guess I'm best off practising with fibreglass twirl over ply and making moulds...

Normally when I start something I do it the expensive way and would probably waste money on the bagging gear.

At least I'd already figured out that I don't need an autoclave for CF  ;)

To make this kind of stuff from solid cf would need to be approx 2-3mm thick to get any stiffness, then it gets heavy and expensive and it would need a mould. If you made a mould you could bag the face layer, then a core and a glass inner layer at once, then trim it to shape, then finish the core edge, then finish the carbon with a clear.  

Or use ply. 

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49 minutes ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

To make this kind of stuff from solid cf would need to be approx 2-3mm thick to get any stiffness, then it gets heavy and expensive and it would need a mould. If you made a mould you could bag the face layer, then a core and a glass inner layer at once, then trim it to shape, then finish the core edge, then finish the carbon with a clear.  

Or use ply. 

Are you just getting lazy during your convalescence? How are the toes? 

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I'm getting sick of it on the lawn so I'm cutting corners, like making trim out of ply etc. toes are better, the mounted toenail one doesn't hurt but looks revolting, the broken one hurts by the end of the day. 

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6 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

I'm getting sick of it on the lawn so I'm cutting corners, like making trim out of ply etc. 

If the trim is not needed to sail, put it on the backburner and get the boat wet. Add the missing trim later...

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Hard when one of the trim pieces holds all of the electrical bits. I appreciate the sentiment though, and I'm well on board. 

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So...... when i built the cockpit sole, i made some flush hatches with built in gutters, which never worked properly, as i fucked up the hatch hinge geometry, seals, etc and they have leaked ever since. Todayi cut it all out and glued some of the clopped up hatches back in so i can fit some standard commercial hatches. it wont be as cool, or look as good but it wont leak and wont make my boat rot. Pics to follow.

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10 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

see if you can guess the colour of the tarp by looking at the pics. 

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Blue. What do I win? Glad to hear the lower digits are on the mend. You did not lie; those toe pics are truly revolting. (If I wanted to see things like that I would have gone to medical school!) 

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Totally should get T-mobile to sponsor that pink boat!  Love it keep on keeping on! 

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I remember learning a lesson from an interview i saw with Jesse James of all people, it doesn't matter how long or how much money you spend on something, if its fucked, throw it in the bin and start over. I have fucked around with those hatches for hour after hour after hour, but that doesn't matter if they don't seal, so out they go.

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On 7/23/2019 at 12:26 PM, Alcatraz5768 said:

Your prize is me not posting any more of those hideous toe pics. Yay you. 

Totally worth it!

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spent a couple of hours today hanging off a 9” grinder chamfering the steel for the welds on the keel fin. hopefully we can get the fin welded this week. the top and bottom fillet welds are farmed out to a guru. 

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welded up the centre box of the keel fin, we tacked one side to a big I beam to stop it warping then welded it in sections of about 5" at a time in different places. The welder i was using had a 20%duty cycle so i could only weld for about 2 mins every 10 mins, so this also reduced warpage. Tacked the top and bottom plates on, then its gone out for the first fancy welds. We will then fit the front and back sections and send it out again for more welding on the top and bottom plates. 

Fired up the engine, not without dramas. Was very hard to start, then the chinese starter broke (very common with gm Yanmar Chinese starters), got a fence reduction starter and had another go, but was still hard to get going, finally fired up but very rough then i noticed a tiny bit of black smoke at the back of the engine. Found the 3rd injector wasn't cinched down ,did that and bam, fired up, smooth idle, sweet. The engine controller seems to work but needs some settings changed to be really sweet. 

Repainted the cockpit floor and fitted the new hatches, ordered a Garmin gnd10 box for the instruments, ordered some Nautos cam cleats, they seem like Harken knockoffs but half the price, i will report back.

rudder bearings done, but a smidge tight, so i got some new Acetal rod .2 mm smaller diameter (went to plastic place with my vernier and went through their stock to find the right size) for the needle rollers which should fix the problem.

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Sounds like good progress. It's always nice when you find the simple problem/oversight that fixes an engine problem (I have some stories I will never tell until the dementia kicks in). Curios how you are making your own rudder bearing. We need pics. And not of your toes (which hopefully are well on the mend these days). I won "no more toe pics" in a contest!

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sealed the other three hatches down, put in the engine control and cockpit switches. buttons are Nexus steer pilot at top then mob then the engine start/stop on the starboard side.

rudder bearings were turned up by a local plastic place LEP and the rollers are made from a stick of acetal chopped up with a small chamfer put on them. 

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Mint as bearings mate , Nautos cleats should be ok . A mate has used wongstan and harkong cleats on his boat at 10 bucks each and still going strong a year out 

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On 7/23/2019 at 6:11 PM, casc27 said:

Blue. What do I win? Glad to hear the lower digits are on the mend. You did not lie; those toe pics are truly revolting. (If I wanted to see things like that I would have gone to medical school!) 

Color is more "Late Sunset" to me.

Wife always asks why I take pictures of personal damage.   "So I can show it to you in all of its splendid glory!" (and get a rise out of you!)

- Stumbling

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respliced all be dyneema backstays as i had to wash them and the washer loosened the splices. also spliced up the lifelines 4mm dxnex core with dyneema 24 carrier cover coated black. i got my boy Evan at Fineline Marine to custom make them for me. 

i did all my splices then hooked everything together and payed it down the driveway and hung wifeys car off it overnight to set everything. 

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finished fabbing the keel fin today. it goes out tomorrow to get the top and bottom plate welding finished, then sandblast, fair, glass, fair and paint. the top and bottom welds are the important ones so they get done at another shop. the middle section is a fabricated box out of 12mm and the front and back plating is 6mm.  70 mm at its widest.  scares the shit out of me. 

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How do you plan to connect the bulb to the fin?

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14 hours ago, Murphness said:

How do you plan to connect the bulb to the fin?

The bottom plate is drilled and tapped for 4 bolts through the bulb with recessed washers and nuts. 

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Did some sewing tonight, making life line padding covers. I want them as one long sausage from the chainplates to the pulpit on the lower life lines, so it's going to be tricky to fit. I will need some draw strings and such but I believe it will look nicer than covers stopping either side of the stanchions. 

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sooo. made my lifeline padding sausage that spans 3 stanchins, fucked around making it, putting it all together threading it all on, then i put some weight on it, the dyneema lifeline gave a little and the holes ripped. that’s the reason they stop and start at each post. 

Gotta be willing to fail, right?

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"...Try again. Fail again. Fail better." S.Beckett

So, can we expect bigger rips and shredding for the next go-round (failing better)? Or just beat on the first version and see how far it tears, then make your openings larger than that. Or just do what everyone else does: terminate at the stanchions. But that last is so boring. We expect innovation and creativity from you. And pictures, where the F are the pictures?

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I want to just chop it up to go between the uprights but the stop start look just grates. I've only done one side so far so I'll do the other side with more length between so it can stretch out and I might strengthen the stanchin areas with pvc. Pics to follow. 

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pics of lifeline padding fail. 

also hooked my instruments up and confirmed they worked. i haven’t quite figured out the programming but they all work which is all that matters at this point. 

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12 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

I want to just chop it up to go between the uprights but the stop start look just grates. I've only done one side so far so I'll do the other side with more length between so it can stretch out and I might strengthen the stanchin areas with pvc. Pics to follow. 

Black elastic or neoprene spanning the spreaders.

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It seems like as soon as that keel is installed, it's time to put her in the water. 

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Still stuff to do: paint the rig, wiring, fair the keel up, undercoat the bottom, few more deck fittings, but it's getting closer alright. 

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Lucys favourite part is unmasking. like christmas apparently. 

on another note, i was told of a technique for bogging curved parts and i got to try it out on my tiller today. the guy who told me was referring to keel bulbs but it seems like it will work for any curved doohickey. What you do is brush on a relatively thick coat of filler (microbaloons and coloidial silica in this case) and get a piece of plastic packaging tape, doubled over onto itself, and drag it over the object from one end to the other. works amazingly well. 

 

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While I am late to this party and have pages to catch up, bravo for the effort!

And +1 for child labor.  I always put mine to work whenever possible.  Goal is to move the project forward with the helper, so me having to re-do something is ideally avoided.  Not always though, and that is ok.

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18 hours ago, Windward said:

While I am late to this party and have pages to catch up, bravo for the effort!

And +1 for child labor.  I always put mine to work whenever possible.  Goal is to move the project forward with the helper, so me having to re-do something is ideally avoided.  Not always though, and that is ok.

Out of 4 kids she is the one who wants to be in the garage helping. Apparently it's like arts and crafts but with dad. 

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I had my 10 year old out building a wheelchair ramp today. She learned about plywood and handled the drill just fine but was a little scared of the impact driver until I showed her that it was variable speed and she could control it easily. As soon as we were done, she was back in front of a screen but I'm going to chalk it up as a win. 

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On 9/13/2019 at 6:55 PM, Alcatraz5768 said:

these posts highlight just what a shambles my garage is and also how shit i am at taking photos. 

Actually doing something in your garage is more than most people do these days. Taking photos and sharing what you are doing is good. You have been doing some cool stuff.

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hacked a hole in the mast for the other masthead halyard, which will have a choker to the hounds for fractional chutes. professionally mounted the vhf even without a fancy flush mount kit. 

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10 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

professionally mounted the vhf even without a fancy flush mount kit. 

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I love this.

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On 9/13/2019 at 9:55 PM, Alcatraz5768 said:

these posts highlight just what a shambles my garage is

Besides the good work I love seeing all the bulb crates.

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42 minutes ago, cyclone said:

Besides the good work I love seeing all the bulb crates.

is that what those black crates are? i bought 50 of them ages ago for work. 

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bottom section of mast, vang,tiller and spreaders all black. poor grass. i’m not very fond of the tiller but i have a plan for another one in the works so this version is only temporary. it is made from the old tiller grafted on to a carbon base that goes over the rudder stock. 

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3 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

bottom section of mast, vang,tiller and spreaders all black. poor grass. i’m not very fond of the tiller but i have a plan for another one in the works so this version is only temporary. it is made from the old tiller grafted on to a carbon base that goes over the rudder stock. 

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Meanwhile, overheard across the backyard fence...

”Al! Get your mast and spreaders off the bloody washing line. And there better not be black paint on the towels later on!”

:)

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1 hour ago, HFC Hunter said:

Meanwhile, overheard across the backyard fence...

”Al! Get your mast and spreaders off the bloody washing line. And there better not be black paint on the towels later on!”

:)

All of those things. It's the glass dust in the garage that touches a nerve. 

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5 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

All of those things. It's the glass dust in the garage that touches a nerve. 

Literally.

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keel fin back from sandblaster. cnc  cut  profile patterns to get the shape. i’ll tape them up then poo in between to give me the correct profile then screed between with a straightedge. 

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Will you glue a solid glass batten to trailing edge before fairing?

Also are you using the welded top and bottom plates to establish the centre line for your profiles?

Looks good; let the sanding begin!

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I set the socket up in the boat along the centreline so I will line up the fin with the top plate. I made the top plate parallel with the bottom plate and lined the holes for the bulb as Close as possible. It's like gluing a balloon onto a soccer ball but making sure it's perfectly in line. 

When I do the profiles I will lay a glass fin up the trailing edge, however the whole thing gets a 600gsm db over it so the trailing edge should be solid enough. 2 layers around the leading edge to ward off the fishing lines. 

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more progress, didn’t bother with glass at this stage up the back edge, i’ll just be careful with the bog and rely on the outer skins of glass for strength. 

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one side bogged. Dragging the batten across is by no means a one-n-done deal. drag it, scoop up the excess bog and put it in the low spot and drag again. continue until it’s good. Before you start bitching about using 411 i checked with Adhesive Technology and they were happy as it gets glassed over therefore doesn’t see water. 

 

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I watched Gary P fair Fineline's keel in '14

10 cross sections, lots of filler and lots of time with a hand plane 

 

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I’ve never done this kind of keel shaping. Are you using a batten to slather the bog on, then going to sand it down to the correct shape? Could you get a template made that is 1-3mm too big and use that to spread the filler so that you have less final sanding to do?

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Nope. 3 cross sections which are the brown microbaloon filler. Pile on the cream filler then use a stiff piece of timber with a sharp edge to scrape excess filler off whilst following the shape of the profiles. The stick is only held in 3 places, over the profiles. 

No planing, and very little sanding, just a once over with 40 before glassing. 

Ill try to video the other side if you want. 

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21 hours ago, Alcatraz5768 said:

Ill try to video the other side if you want. 

please.

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23 hours ago, ryley said:

please.

+1 on the video. Keel is coming along nicely. (Just keep your f'ing toes out of the video!)

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