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Corsair Pulse 600

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On 3/13/2018 at 10:52 AM, pater001 said:

I am considering buying a slightly used pulse 600 from South Florida. I am looking for a co-owner or a group to make this a boat club for occasional use on the coast of North Carolina. any interests let me know. Have owned 2 corsair F24s in past and loved them--just too much boat than needed.

As a former F24 owner, I had the same needs but decided to downsize to a SeaRail19 instead of another Corsair.  I liked the looks and price.  I've been sailing it since September and other than taking a little longer to setup than the F242, the performance is better and a dream to single hand (self tacking jib).  I'm sure the Pulse is a great boat too and a used one might be more reasonably priced...but thought I'd let you know that there is another alternative.

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On 6/1/2018 at 2:35 AM, Chidz said:

Hey Mad Horsey man, my Sprint is still waiting for a kindly new owner ...

Just put my 08 Sprint 750 in the ads here (paid ads, of course!)...I love it to death, but have too many houses and other possessions and responsibilities so  have to downsize....heaven forbid, I may even have to get a little monohull....

Not trying to steal your Aussie sales, of course - being as we'd have to drill a hole straight thru the earth from New England (RI) to get there quickly...

Maybe a Pulse or Searail is in my future - at least I will be able to tow it when hurricane season hits, etc (this boat is too heavy for my cars)...

 

IMG_0283.jpg

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Hi All

I recently purchased a pulse 600 and have a few queries on rigging which don't appear to be in the manual. any help greatly appreciated

 

how tight should you do up the beam bolts, is there a torque setting?

 

between the compression pads and the hull meeting point should there be any gap assuming not?

 

how much shroud tension should be on when unfolded? when we rigged the boat last night and put the tension on the shrouds so the mast didn't flop around, we were unable to fold up the outriggers. we loosed the shrouds a certain amount, however the ream folding mechanism on the beams would not fold up and the outriggers were being pulled forward by the shrouds. we had to loosen the shrouds a lot before the outriggers could fold in. Will we have to leave the shrouds loose and then tighten up when unfolded for sailing?

 

we are planning to leave the boat on a dry dock in a marina. given the above we are a bit worried the mast will flop around even with the additional support wires rigged. when its windy the outriggers will also end up being pulled or forwards and backward putting pressure on the folding mechanism, is there any other attachment we can secure either the main halyard or kite halyard to on the boat to stop the rig flopping one side to the other?

 

can a code zero sail be used and if so which attachment on the bow prodder do we use for it as there are two. have you got the dimensions for such a sail and do we need to fit a bobstay from the bow eye to the bottom of the prodder to avoid it bending/snapping?

 

thanks all

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I have recently bought ba con rong and have found some of these answers watching utube videos

My thought to fold outriggers mast up would be push the boom out to 1 side on the curved track use the topping rope and main sheet to release some tension to 1 shroud and fold

repeat other side, might work...dont pull the track of the deck I did the beam bolts up quite firm and could feel when they were i dont think you need to do them up as tight as a car

wheel nut...my compression pads did have some gaps but were still as close as possible and pressed firm to other areas i dont think you can squeeze them flat all over... remember

being a folding tri there will always be some movement no matter how tight you tension...the diagonal distance from the port stern out rigger to the starboard bow outrigger is over

7.5 metres!!!!  Keep that quiet otherwise if you store unfolded at your club i can guarantee at least 2 comittee members will want more of your money even if you give relentlessly to

the club... 

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Sealion and Monomuncher, 

Please put some video of the boat powered up. I would like to see some more. 

This boat is still in the running as my "retired" boat.  You know, when I have time to use it. 

Cheers,

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On 7/13/2018 at 1:43 AM, sealion said:

Hi All

I recently purchased a pulse 600 and have a few queries on rigging which don't appear to be in the manual. any help greatly appreciated

 

how tight should you do up the beam bolts, is there a torque setting?

 

between the compression pads and the hull meeting point should there be any gap assuming not?

 

how much shroud tension should be on when unfolded? when we rigged the boat last night and put the tension on the shrouds so the mast didn't flop around, we were unable to fold up the outriggers. we loosed the shrouds a certain amount, however the ream folding mechanism on the beams would not fold up and the outriggers were being pulled forward by the shrouds. we had to loosen the shrouds a lot before the outriggers could fold in. Will we have to leave the shrouds loose and then tighten up when unfolded for sailing?

 

we are planning to leave the boat on a dry dock in a marina. given the above we are a bit worried the mast will flop around even with the additional support wires rigged. when its windy the outriggers will also end up being pulled or forwards and backward putting pressure on the folding mechanism, is there any other attachment we can secure either the main halyard or kite halyard to on the boat to stop the rig flopping one side to the other?

 

can a code zero sail be used and if so which attachment on the bow prodder do we use for it as there are two. have you got the dimensions for such a sail and do we need to fit a bobstay from the bow eye to the bottom of the prodder to avoid it bending/snapping?

 

thanks all

To be clear, I do not own nor have I done anything with a Pulse.  BUT, I owned an F242 for a dozen years and had similar questions and now own a SeaRail that has similar shroud system.

No torque setting on F242...probably not on a Pulse, either.  Tighten to snug, no need to grunge it in.  If going offshore single handed

The shrouds should be loosened enough for folding AND THEN retightened and secured again after folding.  There is probably a dihedral in play (like my SeaRail) so the ama actually goes "down and out" to unfold, then again, "down and in" to refold. 

If nothing else, you can secure the main and spin halyards to the folding mechanism to assist the support (mast raising) shrouds when leaving it folded.  If your boat came with hard points for lifting with a hoist, those would be ideal.  Probably should also use the mainsheet with a loop around the shrouds to keep the forestay taut when leaving folded with mast up.  If you have a roller furled jib, be best to fit a snorkel over it because I shudder to think of it becoming partially unfurled while you are away. 

You could use a code zero from either attachment, talk to your sailmaker.   If you already have a spin and a screacher, though, I'd hold off until you have more experience and know exactly what you want it for. 

 

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Hi all

Just to give an update on the Pulse for anyone interested. first race this weekend, 17-22 knots of wind, 3 up. great boat! down wind we hit 18.6kts, stuffed the bows a few times but that was expected in 1-1.5m swell, seemed to be very forgiving, much more so then my hobie tiger, sat around 16-17 knots most of the time. we only have the standard 25sqm kite which seems a little small we flew it with about 15 cm's foot line off and around 30-40cms off the halyard to get it to set correctly.

 

Upwind, hiking helps massively. we needed to drive off the leeward float a fair bit for the middle hull to start lifting a little, then it pointed much higher. Very similar to a hobie 16. speeds upwind around 10-11 kts. a couple of pics attached in the light wind bits. will try and get some more photos soon.

if anyone has put a bigger kite on them, would love to hear from you

 

09de0005-52d8-483a-85df-717b616565e2.JPG

ca3b81d7-ef4f-4c03-af37-d7eeef7243b3.JPG

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Thanks for the update sealion, you need some graphics on the side.

I will post some of mine as soon as they are done, sign writer got them  back to front.

I have 2 kites, i will check sizes next time i am aboard. one is quite deep but still furls okish  havent used the other one yet

18.6 now thats going to be hard to beat but i will give it a try..

fitting new garmin plotter soon as i have the time also i use pro start.

i have put the transceiver on a short u `upside down` alum pipe and slide it into the mast support bracket on the transom,

run the wire to the cabin, mount the garmin 10 inch on the cabin door so can navigate safely in shallow water and also find fish.

just lift it out and store in cabin when im ready to race, i use a 5hp tohatsu 2 stroke but also have a 2.4hp honda 4 stroke air cooled

so will give the smaller motor a try as it will store better in the cabin when racing

12 volt lithium battery light as.. pro start has its own batteries

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thanks Monomuncher, the kite sizes will help. I'm sure we could get away with another 5-10sqm for a proper downwind VMG kite. We are not using the furling system for the current kite as prefer to keep it in the "cabin/hatch" when not in use rather then have the end shackled to the prodder. On that note, you will see from the pictures we have put a bobstay on the prodder from the bow towing eye.  Another pulse over here snapped their prodder. looked like the carbon layup was still dry and had not been made correctly so watch out for that.

All our electrics are portable. We are building a new washboard to mount a velocitek prostart on which will be on the bottom with the top open for the kite. We have a hand held GPS mounted on one of our arms for nav which works well as its always with us on the rail. The engine is a 3.3 mercury stroke, its very light and we leave it on the back when racing as it clears the water when tilted up.

how have you found racing it with 2 or 3 crew? we are going 3 up at the moment. we think its needed in heavy winds and makes sail handling that much easier. 4 people will be far to many when racing but if out for a day sail should be ample room. 2 up is also workable but only in the lighter winds.

will post some more pictures as we get them

 

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looks great. we are having a think of what to put on ours.

having sailed a few times now, we'd be interested in your views on light wind performance. We found it very slow in under 10knts of breeze. we had all weight forward and to leeward but it just couldn't seem to find a groove. We are investigating a code zero for light wind work upwind/reaching to see if that would help. Does anyone have one and what size have you gone for?

thanks

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2 hours ago, sealion said:

looks great. we are having a think of what to put on ours.

having sailed a few times now, we'd be interested in your views on light wind performance. We found it very slow in under 10knts of breeze. we had all weight forward and to leeward but it just couldn't seem to find a groove. We are investigating a code zero for light wind work upwind/reaching to see if that would help. Does anyone have one and what size have you gone for?

thanks

how many people were on board? 

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4 minutes ago, sail(plane) said:

how many people were on board? 

just 2, we sail 2 up in under 15knts, 3 in over seems to work well (at least for the 15knts +)

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4 hours ago, sealion said:

having sailed a few times now, we'd be interested in your views on light wind performance. We found it very slow in under 10knts of breeze. we had all weight forward and to leeward but it just couldn't seem to find a groove. We are investigating a code zero for light wind work upwind/reaching to see if that would help. Does anyone have one and what size have you gone for?

thanks

I had the same problem with my F242...the boat is just underpowered in under 10 (actually, it just weighed too much--which might be the case with the Pulses as well).  What I found that worked better than a code zero or screacher for going to weather in really light stuff (under 5 or 6) was a windseeker-which is just a small flat (very flat 12% camber) high clewed nylon sail.  Not useful above 6 kts breeze, though.  The windseeker was also very useful in winds above 30 on a broad reach and useful on a close reach with the jib inside cutter style.  

  

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17 hours ago, MultiThom said:

I had the same problem with my F242...the boat is just underpowered in under 10 (actually, it just weighed too much--which might be the case with the Pulses as well).  What I found that worked better than a code zero or screacher for going to weather in really light stuff (under 5 or 6) was a windseeker-which is just a small flat (very flat 12% camber) high clewed nylon sail.  Not useful above 6 kts breeze, though.  The windseeker was also very useful in winds above 30 on a broad reach and useful on a close reach with the jib inside cutter style.  

  

thanks for the info. I think we are going to go for a zero which can be a big light wind jib and then reacher as the wind pick up. under 5 knts, we will be in the YC bar instead I think!

 

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4 hours ago, sealion said:

thanks for the info. I think we are going to go for a zero which can be a big light wind jib and then reacher as the wind pick up. under 5 knts, we will be in the YC bar instead I think!

 

That is my current preference, but when racing you don't get to pick the conditions on the course.  You might want to ensure the prodder has a bobstay for going to weather with any upwind sail flown off it...there are significant forces on it. Broke the bow off my F24 on multiple occasions (prodder also broke, but the bow breaking is more dramatic!).   A couple times it was waves being prodded that caused the damage, but a couple other times it was a very close reach with screacher.  I ended up reinforcing with 1/4" stainless plate but even that bent.

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On 9/4/2018 at 10:37 PM, sealion said:

looks great. we are having a think of what to put on ours.

having sailed a few times now, we'd be interested in your views on light wind performance. We found it very slow in under 10knts of breeze. we had all weight forward and to leeward but it just couldn't seem to find a groove. We are investigating a code zero for light wind work upwind/reaching to see if that would help. Does anyone have one and what size have you gone for?

thanks

decal of dragon is 2.5mts long    x  .500mm high

I have 2 furlable spinnakers. only tried 1 so far as have only been out 2 times will try other 1 soon hope it is flat as...

In light winds sail it like it is a WETA!!!... use the spin as a big jib, set it in the correct position close hauled top to bottom dont backwind the main, furl the jib,  and sheet it on really hard,

even pull creases through it, you will not get a groove in light stuff!

so loosen the sheets, head down, build up speed, and sheet on, outhaul on, rotate mast back in, as you slow down repeat. this will only work in light wind as your speed increases the fuller spinnaker will start to luff so then its quicker without it as you increase your height vmg.

 

 

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I am using a huge jib on my Pulse and it does miracles in light winds. I can always get to at least wind speed, maybe even 10-20% over.

We have many days with maybe 7-10 kts winds here and it is used a lot. On the other hand it gets quite ugly sometimes, as we tend to get huge gusts with more than double wind speed every 10 to 15 minutes... But Pulse can be de-powered quite nicely, so no worries.

On the other hand I thought I could use it as an off wind sail too, but the Pulse just won't generate enough app wind sailing anything deeper than maybe 135° true...

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On 9/6/2018 at 7:01 AM, monomuncher said:

so loosen the sheets, head down, build up speed, and sheet on, outhaul on, rotate mast back in

Umm in most beach cats you let off the mast rotation when flying the spinny  as the mast is stronger in the narrow axis than the wider front to rear axis, which is counter to what you would think. Also don't release the main sheet, that's your back stay and controls the top of the mast by the tension on the sail.

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7 hours ago, silvestert said:

I am using a huge jib on my Pulse and it does miracles in light winds. I can always get to at least wind speed, maybe even 10-20% over.

We have many days with maybe 7-10 kts winds here and it is used a lot. On the other hand it gets quite ugly sometimes, as we tend to get huge gusts with more than double wind speed every 10 to 15 minutes... But Pulse can be de-powered quite nicely, so no worries.

On the other hand I thought I could use it as an off wind sail too, but the Pulse just won't generate enough app wind sailing anything deeper than maybe 135° true...

Have you got any pictures of it?

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Hi all

 

we had a little beam trouble this weekend. We saw the beam rising a little when sailing so we did the bolt up some more. This was the forward starboard side. Next thing we knew the whole beam popped up. The bolt holding the beam into the metal plate had been touching the deck underneath and just lifted the screwed down metal plate. 

After we had a slightly worrying sail back with one of us sitting on the beam the whole way we pulled it out of the water to investigate. All four bolts had made marks into the gel coat under the metal plates so the bolts will pull all the plates off as they are too long. So as a fix we are getting thicker washers for the top to put between the bolts and beam. What’s slightly more worrying is the metal plates were just screwed into the fibreglass with no bolts on the back and a little sealant. We can reach the front beams screws from the under deck water proof compartment but not the backs. Not great build quality. . Have a check on yours if you haven’t already. 

 

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2 hours ago, sealion said:

Hi all

 

we had a little beam trouble this weekend. We saw the beam rising a little when sailing so we did the bolt up some more. This was the forward starboard side. Next thing we knew the whole beam popped up. The bolt holding the beam into the metal plate had been touching the deck underneath and just lifted the screwed down metal plate. 

After we had a slightly worrying sail back with one of us sitting on the beam the whole way we pulled it out of the water to investigate. All four bolts had made marks into the gel coat under the metal plates so the bolts will pull all the plates off as they are too long. So as a fix we are getting thicker washers for the top to put between the bolts and beam. What’s slightly more worrying is the metal plates were just screwed into the fibreglass with no bolts on the back and a little sealant. We can reach the front beams screws from the under deck water proof compartment but not the backs. Not great build quality. . Have a check on yours if you haven’t already. 

 

Might help to tighten the lashings on the shrouds some more.  Once unfolded, the shrouds should keep the beams down.  

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13 hours ago, sealion said:

Should be attached 

B784965E-7B5F-409A-B24A-52BC6E2653B7.jpeg

Thats poor engineering straight from a Corsair 24, I wonder if Corsair invented that or Farrier way back when?

If the beam can move it creates a huge force, need to shim it.

I wonder how a F22 looks like in that place?
 

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5 hours ago, Sailabout said:

Thats poor engineering straight from a Corsair 24, I wonder if Corsair invented that or Farrier way back when?

If the beam can move it creates a huge force, need to shim it.

I wonder how a F22 looks like in that place?
 

My 1998 F242 (Corsair 24) did not look like that at the beam ends  Perhaps they changed it in later years.  The pivot arm was mounted under the attachment.  But the distance between the beam end and the main hull was shimmed and was critical as that was supposed to take the ama forces and transmit to the main hull.  It wasn't always successful as the pivot mechanism eventually begins leaking into the cabin after a decade or so.  Of course, though, there was little or no dihedral in the F242 design.  I see your point, though, the leeward ama has loose shrouds no matter how tight you try to get them, so the beam ends are free to move a little so the forces are transmitted to the hold down and pivot arms unless the beam end meets the hull with just a tiny clearance.  

 

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13 hours ago, Sailabout said:

Thats poor engineering straight from a Corsair 24, I wonder if Corsair invented that or Farrier way back when?

If the beam can move it creates a huge force, need to shim it.

I wonder how a F22 looks like in that place?
 

Sailabout, you are really setting yourself up here as a moron flicking mud and references to designers and brands with absolutely no idea of what you are talking about. All the websites and forums and even google have the answers you want, but here they are again for you:

 

The recess pictured looks like a F/C24 but underneath is clearly nothing like the mechanism and engineering and scantlings designed by Ian Farrier.

The F22 is nothing like that and is totally nextgen with shorter and very different beams.

 

images.jpeg

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Thanks for the photo with Ians later clever design to maximise interior space.

Do you have a photo of what that beam bolt goes into?

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On 9/9/2018 at 12:14 PM, sealion said:

We also found some cracks in the port forward beam. Don’t think it’s structural maybe just cosmetic?

BA81DD50-FD3D-4BDC-A982-B472FABB3CD7.jpeg

Looks like you hit something and sprung the beam.  Doesn't look cosmetic to me, but should be repairable.  

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Well, the man (Farrier)  has left us here on the planet alone  - but I must say, this stuff doesn't look anything like my 2008 Sprint. I have never seen a small boat so well built...I was talking to a prospective buyer the other day and stating how not a single part of the boat oil-pans or anything of the sort. It's amazing strong. The beams and all involved are way over-engineered and I can't imagine what could harm them.....small cracks on the outside of them (side flanges) must just be in the gelcoat (in my case), because it is near impossible for those arms to fail (or so it seems to this wanna-be engineer). The way this thing is built, I have no doubt it will look very much the same (crazing and gelcoat small cracks aside) in another decade. 

Maybe I have too much confidence - or maybe they perfected a lot by 2008. Either way this is a little troubling and maybe they have to make some changes. The only weak (possible) point I see in my boat is perhaps where the side stays connect to the floats - obviously the glass around there is subject to stresses and some sort of large washers or plates have to be used inside and perhaps checked (something I will do next season)....`

I'm keeping up with this thread because a Pulse is a real possibility for my Sprint replacement (it's for sale....I need to downsize). Heck, I may even go for a small Frenchie thingy without the folding amas (Astus)...if there is not a bulletproof folding system. 

I hope the Pulse in question can be repaired better than new....

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Hey Craigiri,

I do not know if you want to downsize that much, however forget the Frenchie Thingy (see Astus 16.5 thread) and consider the NewZealandie Thingy. The Weta is a great boat. Simple, fast and fun!!!!!!!!!  Did I say simple? No folding or any mechanism needed.

Every time I consider selling mine (too many toys), it takes about 30 seconds to say; Never!!!!  :)

Cheers,

 

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New Pulse 600 in Texas #55 Coyote III on Lake Travis (Austin)

We owned a Melges24 for 20 years (family/PHRF racing) and were looking for an easier boat to race at 2 (empty nester).

We love it!!!!! A bit difficult under 7 knots of wind but a blast above 15 kn. Last sunday we raced with gust > 30kn and never felt overwhelmed (did not even have time to reef through the gust)

 

Pulse 2.jpg

Pulse 1.jpg

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On 9/25/2018 at 7:20 PM, vaplaya said:

Hey Craigiri,

I do not know if you want to downsize that much, however forget the Frenchie Thingy (see Astus 16.5 thread) and consider the NewZealandie Thingy. The Weta is a great boat. Simple, fast and fun!!!!!!!!!  Did I say simple? No folding or any mechanism needed.

Every time I consider selling mine (too many toys), it takes about 30 seconds to say; Never!!!!  :)

Cheers,

 

A lot depends on the water temperature.  Yes, there are a lot of weta's in SF Bay, but I never even considered a Weta as a replacement for my F242.  BECAUSE, fortunately, a friend had one and I crewed for him several times.  Had to buy a dry suit so I didn't get hypothermia from the firehose of cold water pounding into me.  Exhilarating, yes...even fun with giggles; but not to own for me. YMMV.  I'm sure the Pulse is a smaller replacement for the Sprint, but it is much the same ride as the sprint, takes as long to set up and take down...why not keep the sprint?  I'm not sorry to have sold the F242 since I then followed with a Triak and Hobie Getaway and now a SeaRail.  Every boat has nice things about them; I chose not to get another corsair simply because I wanted a different experience, not the same thing again.

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I did not buy the Corsair Pulse 600 chute kit, I bought the Quantum chute and Harken hardware (57mm ratchamatic). I also changed the jib halyard block for Karver KB02. I removed the Ronstan cam on the mast and replaced with Harken cam cleat.

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On 10/10/2018 at 10:37 AM, Ric_Roc said:

New Pulse 600 in Texas #55 Coyote III on Lake Travis (Austin)

We owned a Melges24 for 20 years (family/PHRF racing) and were looking for an easier boat to race at 2 (empty nester).

We love it!!!!! A bit difficult under 7 knots of wind but a blast above 15 kn. Last sunday we raced with gust > 30kn and never felt overwhelmed (did not even have time to reef through the gust)

 

Pulse 2.jpg

Pulse 1.jpg

 

High wind videos, pleaaaaaase!!!!!!!!!   :-)

Cheers

 

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