Bull City

H-Boat Renovation Project

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I think you'll be pleased. Send us some pics. How are the hatch covers coming along?

1 minute ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

I picked up the Watco Teak Oil over the weekend, I will grab some of the Wipe-on Poly as well.

 

 

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Doug,

BTW, I could't quite tell from some of your pics, but does your boat have a hull or head liner?

B.C.

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3 minutes ago, Bull City said:

Doug,

BTW, I could't quite tell from some of your pics, but does your boat have a hull or head liner?

B.C.

Yeah a thin application glued to the hull/cabin.  You can see it here.  For this season I was planning on scrubbing it and leaving it.  Perhaps next year I will rip it out and paint with epoxy.

IMG_0597 Small.jpg

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1 hour ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

Yeah a thin application glued to the hull/cabin.  You can see it here.  For this season I was planning on scrubbing it and leaving it.  Perhaps next year I will rip it out and paint with epoxy.

IMG_0597 Small.jpg

One of the first things I did to my boat was to remove the liners. They were very loose in some areas, so it was a priority. Nasty job, especially the adhesive residue. I used a 3M solvent and a mask. I primed with Zinzer, a shellac based primer, and followed with a latex paint. It's all held up well.

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1 minute ago, Bull City said:

One of the first things I did to my boat was to remove the liners. They were very loose in some areas, so it was a priority. Nasty job, especially the adhesive residue. I used a 3M solvent and a mask. I primed with Zinzer, a shellac based primer, and followed with a latex paint. It's all held up well.

Again, awesome real-life experience and resolution to an issue.  These blogs are great because (obviously) they get right to the heart of the matter....getting things fixed without all the experimentation.....good for saving time.  And with Spring around the corner, we could all cut corners to get our stuff done effectively.  Thanks

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6 hours ago, Bull City said:

One of the first things I did to my boat was to remove the liners. They were very loose in some areas, so it was a priority. Nasty job, especially the adhesive residue. I used a 3M solvent and a mask. I primed with Zinzer, a shellac based primer, and followed with a latex paint. It's all held up well.

I notice that your boat seems to have the same rubbery liner for the head liner and the hull liner. I had that on the overhead, but the hull liner was a dark brown non-woven mat-like material. Another H-Boat I looked at had the same stuff, only rust colored. Such fun.

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16 hours ago, Bull City said:

I notice that your boat seems to have the same rubbery liner for the head liner and the hull liner. I had that on the overhead, but the hull liner was a dark brown non-woven mat-like material. Another H-Boat I looked at had the same stuff, only rust colored. Such fun.

Yes your observation is correct, the liner is the same on the roof of the cabin as the hull.  I will not muck around with the liner(s) this season, they are in place and not peeling off.  This year I will scrub them down and make the most of it.  I still need to buy all new running rigging (halyards, sheets...).  That will be another long discussion on this blog.

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On ‎2‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 8:40 AM, Bull City said:

Looks great.Now I know who to call if my foreward hatch fails.

The original companionway board on my boat is plywood, with a vent opening. I turned the vent opening into a lexan window.

On the cockpit hatch covers, Ish thinks Starboard would be a mistake. What did you cut your new ones out of? Are you going to put non-skid on them?

Ok, here's my (upside down photo) hatch, dry fit onto the boat.  It's nothing fancy but I think for all intent and purpose it is fixed, and that's what matters.  I will keep the aluminum unfinished for ease of maintenance, and compound and polish the Lexan to get it as smooth and blemish free as possible.  It's through bolted with a piece of aluminum on the interior and on a bed of epoxy.  It should hold up.  More stuff to come.  Doug

IMG_7018.JPG

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39 minutes ago, Bull City said:

Very nice looking!

It'll get the job done......God I cannot wait to splash this boat.

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On ‎2‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 11:29 AM, Jdmilnes2 said:

It'll get the job done......God I cannot wait to splash this boat.

Running into some issues with the interior wood work.  The drawer under the step at the hatchway has a piece of laminated plywood.  I think the wood is teak (?).  Anyway, the top layer of veneer is so thin, that when I tried to clean it up with some light sandpaper, I went right now to the next layer of wood, which was a light color (birch?).  Basically makes the entire piece of plywood unusable because you cannot match the color(s) of the different species.  For this piece I will replace with a piece of birch and paint it white, keep it simple.

The wood at the mid section of the cabin has already worn down to the under-layer of wood (lighter color) , so not sure how to handle that.  The knucklehead who owned the boat before me did zero maintenance.

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5 hours ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

Running into some issues with the interior wood work.  The drawer under the step at the hatchway has a piece of laminated plywood.  I think the wood is teak (?).  Anyway, the top layer of veneer is so thin, that when I tried to clean it up with some light sandpaper, I went right now to the next layer of wood, which was a light color (birch?).  Basically makes the entire piece of plywood unusable because you cannot match the color(s) of the different species.  For this piece I will replace with a piece of birch and paint it white, keep it simple.

The wood at the mid section of the cabin has already worn down to the under-layer of wood (lighter color) , so not sure how to handle that.  The knucklehead who owned the boat before me did zero maintenance.

If you're talking about the wood that makes up the little drawers, table, sink etc, they are not structural, so do whatever makes you happy.  If you're keen on "the look" you might see if you can get some veneers, and then very carefully cut and glue them on. If I were doing this, I'd probably pull those things completely out of the boat and give all the wood a wash with a dilute solution of bleach. Then let dry in the sunlight for a couple of days.  Then plaint with KILLZor other mildew-stopping paint, or if you're using veneers, Tightbond wood glue will probably be just fine.

However, the bulkheads that go up and support the mast support beam ARE structural and if they've been sanded down through more than one layer of plywood, I'd take a very hard look at that.

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I just head a good read through this thread, she has turned out really beautiful. Reminds me very much of my own project, except for the full respray.

 

Are there anybody that can clarify what the 2.7 rule is, as mentioned in the beginning of the thread? I'm only familiar with the "pi"-rule :-)

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It's the ten foot rule:

Divide the length of the boat (in feet) by ten.  That's the minimum number of projects that need to be done to the boat

 

Oh, and there's another ten foot rule, particularly when it comes to painting: If you can't see it at ten feet then it doesn't need fixing.

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8 minutes ago, sam_crocker said:

It's the ten foot rule:

Divide the length of the boat (in feet) by ten.  That's the minimum number of projects that need to be done to the boat

 

Oh, and there's another ten foot rule, particularly when it comes to painting: If you can't see it at ten feet then it doesn't need fixing.

Twenty feet if you're facing the boat.

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4 hours ago, sam_crocker said:

It's the ten foot rule:

Divide the length of the boat (in feet) by ten.  That's the minimum number of projects that need to be done to the boat

 

Oh, and there's another ten foot rule, particularly when it comes to painting: If you can't see it at ten feet then it doesn't need fixing.

2.4 projects certainly isn't going to cut it, reading through this thread - rather multiply the length in feet by ten.

The "pi"-rule, almost always fits, for me that is.Take the expected amount of money and time and multiply it by "pi", and that's how much time and money you'll up spending.

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On ‎3‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 2:34 AM, MikkelPetersen said:

2.4 projects certainly isn't going to cut it, reading through this thread - rather multiply the length in feet by ten.

The "pi"-rule, almost always fits, for me that is.Take the expected amount of money and time and multiply it by "pi", and that's how much time and money you'll up spending.

Ahhh Boat Projects.....I think my we all have a sickness with feeling the need to save beautiful/forgotten sailboats from the trip to the dumpster....but someone has to do it.

I am in a few H-Boat groups on Facebook, and it's a great resource.  I had posted a question about running-rigging; dimensions, lengths of halyards and sheets.  I had an immediate  response.  It was great because I have to get all new (running) rigging.  Equally awesome is that I pulled the mast into the sunlight from the spar shed (for the first time in about 10 years), and was astonished at the beautiful piece of formed aluminum it is.  Really stoked.  Here's my face book response: (see attached)  Any thoughts?  feedback?

H-Boat Rigging.docx

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2 hours ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

Ahhh Boat Projects.....I think my we all have a sickness with feeling the need to save beautiful/forgotten sailboats from the trip to the dumpster....but someone has to do it.

I am in a few H-Boat groups on Facebook, and it's a great resource.  I had posted a question about running-rigging; dimensions, lengths of halyards and sheets.  I had an immediate  response.  It was great because I have to get all new (running) rigging.  Equally awesome is that I pulled the mast into the sunlight from the spar shed (for the first time in about 10 years), and was astonished at the beautiful piece of formed aluminum it is.  Really stoked.  Here's my face book response: (see attached)  Any thoughts?  feedback?

H-Boat Rigging.docx

I suffer the same affliction. A couple of years ago I bought a '76 International 806, the swedish alternative to the finnish designed H-Boat, differing by being a bit newer '75 Pelle Petterson design but of similar dimensions. The boat had been neglected and on the hard for a couple of years, but I've been slowly restoring it back to former glamour.

Regarding your sheets, the guys in my local marina with H-boats, have Dyneema spinnaker sheets without covers for really light wind racing.
One thing I'm wondering though, why go with the wire if you're replacing your halyard? It's ancient technology and there's a lot less stretch in Dyneema :-)

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43 minutes ago, MikkelPetersen said:

I suffer the same affliction. A couple of years ago I bought a '76 International 806, the swedish alternative to the finnish designed H-Boat, differing by being a bit newer '75 Pelle Petterson design but of similar dimensions. The boat had been neglected and on the hard for a couple of years, but I've been slowly restoring it back to former glamour.

Regarding your sheets, the guys in my local marina with H-boats, have Dyneema spinnaker sheets without covers for really light wind racing.
One thing I'm wondering though, why go with the wire if you're replacing your halyard? It's ancient technology and there's a lot less stretch in Dyneema :-)

I could agree with the wire question.  The Dyneema and newer products are so strong its incredible now, why use wire?

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1 hour ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

I could agree with the wire question.  The Dyneema and newer products are so strong its incredible now, why use wire?

There's no reason to stick with it, unless you have a fetish for barbed wire and/or getting wire strands into your hands and fingers ;-)

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4 minutes ago, MikkelPetersen said:

There's no reason to stick with it, unless you have a fetish barbed wire and/or getting wire strands into your hands and fingers ;-)

Yeah.... I'll pass.

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4 minutes ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

Yeah.... I'll pass.

By the way, with John Mast being a local firm to me, I wasn't aware that they're making halyard locks - have you been able to veriify that?

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8 minutes ago, MikkelPetersen said:

By the way, with John Mast being a local firm to me, I wasn't aware that they're making halyard locks - have you been able to veriify that?

I created a log-in to the John Mast website.  They have various classes of boats listed, but I do not see the H-Boat.  I sent an inquiry about halyards to them, so I will let you know their response.  Mikkel, I appreciate your information, it's good to have sources.  Here in the states there are a small number of H-Boat owners scattered around the country. 

Another question while I have you....are there documents for rigging?  My previous class boat had websites that people submitted drawings and photo's of how their boats were rigged.  I've been sailing/racing my entire life, and I would figure it out anyway....  Just my curiosity to see what people do with their boats.

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3 minutes ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

I created a log-in to the John Mast website.  They have various classes of boats listed, but I do not see the H-Boat.  I sent an inquiry about halyards to them, so I will let you know their response.  Mikkel, I appreciate your information, it's good to have sources.  Here in the states there are a small number of H-Boat owners scattered around the country. 

Another question while I have you....are there documents for rigging?  My previous class boat had websites that people submitted drawings and photo's of how their boats were rigged.  I've been sailing/racing my entire life, and I would figure it out anyway....  Just my curiosity to see what people do with their boats.

They're usually quite good at getting back to you, I've been in contact with them a couple of times.

Regarding the class rules, I got forwarded to this page from the danish H-boat class organisation for the class rules in english, it might be of help to you: https://h-boat.org/en/documents-rules/class-rules

You can try to run the danish class organisation through Google Translate: http://www.h-boat.dk/

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11 minutes ago, MikkelPetersen said:

They're usually quite good at getting back to you, I've been in contact with them a couple of times.

Regarding the class rules, I got forwarded to this page from the danish H-boat class organisation for the class rules in english, it might be of help to you: https://h-boat.org/en/documents-rules/class-rules

You can try to run the danish class organisation through Google Translate: http://www.h-boat.dk/

Perfect, thank you.

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There's one ofr sale via CL in Southern California right now for an unrealistic price. Looks like it was donated and the Center for Meditation wants to get rid of it, but they can't sell it for less than the donation value for two years.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/boa/d/baltic-design-27-ft/6526921479.html

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14 hours ago, Alan H said:

There's one ofr sale via CL in Southern California right now for an unrealistic price. Looks like it was donated and the Center for Meditation wants to get rid of it, but they can't sell it for less than the donation value for two years.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/boa/d/baltic-design-27-ft/6526921479.html

Do you think $15K is pricey for an H-Boat if it's cherry and with a trailer?  I dunno, just asking.  It could be a little steep considering there are not too many frills to the H- boat...but it's a nice package.  Sad/good thing is that there are many boats in the 25-30ft range you can pick up very cheap.

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Yes, I think it's too much.   Cherry H-boat, new sails, new electronics and nice trailer? m... $8500?  Maaaayyyyyybe $10K. No more than that, at least not here in the SF Bay Area..

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3 hours ago, Alan H said:

Yes, I think it's too much.   Cherry H-boat, new sails, new electronics and nice trailer? m... $8500?  Maaaayyyyyybe $10K. No more than that, at least not here in the SF Bay Area..

I think Alan has it about right. 

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IN northern europe, where there are huge 1-D fleets, a top-three national champ boat might go for the equivalent of $15K.  Here in the USA where you're racing PHRF and nobody but nobody knows what an H Boat is?  No way.   Just for relative information, I bought mine 13 years ago for $2K.  It was sail-able but not cherry by any means.

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I think Alan has it about right. 

Good info....I get it.  All the better for a poor slob like myself.  I can get myself into a 27 footer for cheap.  And the crowd applauded....

On other news..... Here in the NYC metro area the 4th nor'easter dumped a foot + of snow.  God I am so over this weather.  I want to be in the boat yard on a sunny/warm day.  Soon enough I suppose.

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There's one ofr sale via CL in Southern California right now for an unrealistic price. Looks like it was donated and the Center for Meditation wants to get rid of it, but they can't sell it for less than the donation value for two years.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/boa/d/baltic-design-27-ft/6526921479.html

You can enter into a nominal lease/purchase agreement that takes it through the 2 years. The lease counts as the charity putting it to useful service. At the two year point, you can pay agreed price less lease payments. If they have a decent lawyer, the agreement should be easy. 

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On 3/23/2018 at 7:28 AM, Innocent Bystander said:

You can enter into a nominal lease/purchase agreement that takes it through the 2 years. The lease counts as the charity putting it to useful service. At the two year point, you can pay agreed price less lease payments. If they have a decent lawyer, the agreement should be easy. 

Interesting. I bought my H-Boat from a non-profit based in New England.

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Does anyone have a good plexi-glass supply place to order replacement windows?  I am getting numbers between $200.00-$250.00 (and up) to order the plexi, with the intent of cutting and installing myself.  About 2-bills for the material, then shopping costs.  I will put the dark stuff in to match the existing.  Can anyone confirm 1/4" thick?  That's what I measured.    Thanks guys.

Doug

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On ‎3‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 11:26 AM, Jdmilnes2 said:

Does anyone have a good plexi-glass supply place to order replacement windows?  I am getting numbers between $200.00-$250.00 (and up) to order the plexi, with the intent of cutting and installing myself.  About 2-bills for the material, then shopping costs.  I will put the dark stuff in to match the existing.  Can anyone confirm 1/4" thick?  That's what I measured.    Thanks guys.

Doug

Good weekend of work on the boat....More to do.

IMG_7212.JPG

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5 hours ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

Good weekend of work on the boat....More to do.

 

She is looking very nice. What kind of handrails have you got?

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On ‎4‎/‎23‎/‎2018 at 1:25 PM, Bull City said:

She is looking very nice. What kind of handrails have you got?

They are aluminum, I assume the originals

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Has anybody chemically stripped the bottom paint off an H-Boat?  How much of a hassle is it? How long did it take?  Product used?  Doug

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30 minutes ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

Has anybody chemically stripped the bottom paint off an H-Boat?  How much of a hassle is it? How long did it take?  Product used?  Doug

Make sure you follow the stripping with a barrier coat.

I did not strip and barrier coat during my renovation, and regretted it. I got blisters and ended up having the boat stripped with a "media" blast.

Have you got any rust on the keel?

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On ‎4‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 12:41 PM, Bull City said:

Make sure you follow the stripping with a barrier coat.

I did not strip and barrier coat during my renovation, and regretted it. I got blisters and ended up having the boat stripped with a "media" blast.

Have you got any rust on the keel?

I will strip the barrier coat.  There are a few (2?) spots on the keel that have rust.  I plan on wire-brushing these areas and coating with a primer sealer.  After that I will apply a filler that is used for water applications.  Typical automobile "Bondo" has talcum in it, which are metal flakes, so when they get exposed to water, well you know the rest.  I got a product that has fiberglass filler in it.  There is a ton of stuff on Youtube that covers these issues.

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Typical automobile "Bondo" has talcum in it, which are metal flakes,

Huh? Talc is powdered clay - where did you get metal flake? That's for drum sets and Bass boats. ;)

Bondo is polyester filled with talc so it isn't a good combo for underwater areas (or anywhere else on a boat for that matter)

Making your own with epoxy and talc makes a great filler - the epoxy makes it waterproof and it sands beautifully. I learned about it from an old German boatyard owner who started life as an apprentice plasterer in Germany - doing horsehair plaster walls and those big plaster medallions on the ceilings of old mansions and so forth.

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7 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:

Typical automobile "Bondo" has talcum in it, which are metal flakes,

Huh? Talc is powdered clay - where did you get metal flake? That's for drum sets and Bass boats. ;)

Bondo is polyester filled with talc so it isn't a good combo for underwater areas (or anywhere else on a boat for that matter)

Making your own with epoxy and talc makes a great filler - the epoxy makes it waterproof and it sands beautifully. I learned about it from an old German boatyard owner who started life as an apprentice plasterer in Germany - doing horsehair plaster walls and those big plaster medallions on the ceilings of old mansions and so forth.

Ok, lesson learned.  I swear I saw a guy on YouTube saying typical auto repair Bondo has talc in it.  hydrated magnesium silicate ?

Thanks for the clarification!  I will also plan on a plaster medallion in the cabin.....go big or go home.

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4 hours ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

will also plan on a plaster medallion in the cabin.....go big or go home.

With an LED dome light in the middle - perfect!

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17 hours ago, Bull City said:
21 hours ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

will also plan on a plaster medallion in the cabin.....go big or go home.

With an LED dome light in the middle - perfect!

Really should have a chandelier.

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As long as there are granite counter tops.

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So the party continues.....(ugh).  Took out the existing (original) plexi and working on cleaning the recessed section of the cabin top for the windows.  The guy before me LOVED silicone.....holy mackerel did he goop it on.

Other than that some work getting done on the hull.  The boat had been pushed up against a container for storage on the hard for about 10 years, so when we moved it out I discovered a section on the starboard side with spider cracks in the gel coat.  A guy is coming in this we to begin the process to rework it/grind out the bad part and re-work the glass.  I don't have the time to do it myself.

Doug

IMG_7246.JPG

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Interesting that your ports/windows are in recesses. Do they have any mechanical fastening? Mine don't have a cabin recess; they lap over the edge and are screwed through into interior wood trim pieces.

If the handrails are aluminum and have corrosion, they'll clean up nicely with very fine wet/dry sand paper. I used it on the aluminum dock line cleats and was amazed.

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7 minutes ago, Bull City said:

Interesting that your ports/windows are in recesses. Do they have any mechanical fastening? Mine don't have a cabin recess; they lap over the edge and are screwed through into interior wood trim pieces.

If the handrails are aluminum and have corrosion, they'll clean up nicely with very fine wet/dry sand paper. I used it on the aluminum dock line cleats and was amazed.

As far as I can understand, the windows are set with silicone, there are no mechanical fasteners.  I will wet sand the handrails per your suggestion.  Thanks!

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5 hours ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

 I will wet sand the handrails per your suggestion.  Thanks!

Just be sure they are aluminum and that you use a very fine paper, like 1000 maybe? Good work!

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23 hours ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

As far as I can understand, the windows are set with silicone, there are no mechanical fasteners.  I will wet sand the handrails per your suggestion.  Thanks!

Does anyone have an opinion on what type of adhesive to set the windows?  Would it be silicone?

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Dow 795 - it is a type of sophisticated silicone - not bathtub caulk - made specifically for bonded glazing.

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2 hours ago, SloopJonB said:

Dow 795 - it is a type of sophisticated silicone - not bathtub caulk - made specifically for bonded glazing.

Thank you so much.

 

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And.....stripping bottom paint:  We have a great boat supply place here in Jersey, and I had inquired about bottom paint stripper.  The guy says "Kwik" paint removed is probably the best option.  Other strippers don't work as well.  Thoughts?

 

Kwik.jpg

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1 hour ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

And.....stripping bottom paint:  We have a great boat supply place here in Jersey, and I had inquired about bottom paint stripper.  The guy says "Kwik" paint removed is probably the best option.  Other strippers don't work as well.  Thoughts?

 

Kwik.jpg

It contains mostly methylene chloride, like most fast removers, which generally means it isn't safe for use on fiberglass. I wouldn't use it on a glass boat. 

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1 hour ago, Ishmael said:

It contains mostly methylene chloride, like most fast removers, which generally means it isn't safe for use on fiberglass. I wouldn't use it on a glass boat. 

oh wow, thank you

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On 5/1/2018 at 9:28 AM, Jdmilnes2 said:

Does anyone have an opinion on what type of adhesive to set the windows?  Would it be silicone?

According to the C&C list guys, the state of the art is 3m VHB tape 1/2" and Dow 795 structural adhesive.

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H-Boat Head Stay:  Hey, I need a new head stay.  Does anyone have a stateside link to obtain a head stay for the H-Boat, or a English speaking connection in Europe?  And I would like to acquire a new/used jib.  Any resources (again) stateside?

Doug

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3 hours ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

H-Boat Head Stay:  Hey, I need a new head stay.  Does anyone have a stateside link to obtain a head stay for the H-Boat, or a English speaking connection in Europe?  And I would like to acquire a new/used jib.  Any resources (again) stateside?

Doug

Doug, do you have the old headstay (actually it's a forestay)? If so, you could remove it and take it to a rigger.

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7 minutes ago, Bull City said:

Doug, do you have the old headstay (actually it's a forestay)? If so, you could remove it and take it to a rigger.

I do, but the guy who had the boat before me wasn't an accomplished sailor, nor did he take care of the boat.  The current setup is with a roller-furler, and I don't trust any of it.  I have reached out to sources in various European H-Boat websites, and I hope to hear back.  My thoughts are I'm going to return the boat to a hanked-on jib with a standard head stay.  If I can a resource to get one, I will post it.  Thanks in the meantime.  Doug

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On 5/4/2018 at 11:27 AM, Ishmael said:

It contains mostly methylene chloride, like most fast removers, which generally means it isn't safe for use on fiberglass. I wouldn't use it on a glass boat. 

It's not safe for people either, and is banned in the EU.  NPR keeps harping on it.

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On ‎5‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 1:12 PM, Bull City said:

Doug, do you have the old headstay (actually it's a forestay)? If so, you could remove it and take it to a rigger.

To my piece of shit roller furler that was insanely difficult to get off the forestay:  YOU LOOSE.

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3 hours ago, Monkey Butler said:

Bull,

I wasn't aware of your project until you mentioned it on the Endeavor 35 thread. I just binge read the 8 pages and have to say nice work.

 

Thanks. Lot's more boat bucks than I thought, but I really enjoyed the project, and I have really enjoyed the boat. I've been enjoying your Perry 35 thread.

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On ‎5‎/‎29‎/‎2018 at 3:26 PM, Bull City said:

Are you replacing your running rigging? Check the class web site for sizes and lengths. Some of the lengths are a bit too long.

Thanks!

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On ‎5‎/‎31‎/‎2018 at 11:01 AM, Jdmilnes2 said:

Thanks!

Bottom stripped, going to put on Barrier Coat then bottom paint

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13 hours ago, Alan H said:

That's one clean H Boat.

Thanks Alan!

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14 hours ago, RedRyder said:

Looking good!

Thanks!

 

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On ‎6‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 3:10 PM, MScottLedoux said:

40D61562-9FE8-4D6B-A913-FD2DD8435348 2.jpg

Looking Amazing!  Your work  is top shelf!

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Bottom finally done. Very happy to have this behind me.  I splash on Friday.

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2 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:

That oughta' slip right along.

Nice work.

Thank you!

 

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On 5/10/2018 at 1:24 PM, Jdmilnes2 said:

I do, but the guy who had the boat before me wasn't an accomplished sailor, nor did he take care of the boat.  The current setup is with a roller-furler, and I don't trust any of it.  I have reached out to sources in various European H-Boat websites, and I hope to hear back.  My thoughts are I'm going to return the boat to a hanked-on jib with a standard head stay.  If I can a resource to get one, I will post it.  Thanks in the meantime.  Doug

 

On 6/12/2018 at 3:49 PM, Jdmilnes2 said:

Bottom stripped, going to put on Barrier Coat then bottom paint

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So in  post #753 you were asking about Qwik chemical paint stripper and in post #767 we see bare fiberglass. What did you end up using? Is the extension cord and dusty PFD a clue?

And by post #776 a perfectly finished bottom job ready to splash. I could take a year to get from point A to point B. You do it in one page!

Great work BTW.

 

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On ‎6‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 5:24 PM, Monkey Butler said:

 

So in  post #753 you were asking about Qwik chemical paint stripper and in post #767 we see bare fiberglass. What did you end up using? Is the extension cord and dusty PFD a clue?

And by post #776 a perfectly finished bottom job ready to splash. I could take a year to get from point A to point B. You do it in one page!

Great work BTW.

 

Thanks!  At the end of the day, I was told by many people that strippers really do not work so well.  On of them suggested, which is a not marine application , would have eaten the fiberglass (!) so.....scrape scrape scrape. 

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On ‎5‎/‎31‎/‎2018 at 11:01 AM, Jdmilnes2 said:

Thanks!

I ordered my main, jib & spin halyard yesterday through West Marine Rigging (888-447-7444).  Ask for "Donnie" in rigging and this guy is awesome.

Long story short, I am basically replacing what the boat (should have) came with.  The guy who owned the boat before me butchered the running rigging.  I am replacing jib and main halyards with 3/8" New England Ropes Sta-Set, and the wire is 1/8" 716 SS 716 strand wire.  The issue that held me up was the determination of the lengths.  Not so easy if you are trying to replicate what was originally installed in 1984.  The thing with West Marine, is that they will match any price, and it will save you a ton of money.  I will post pictures when they arrive.  Spin sheet is 5/16" Sta-Set.  OI order extra length to measure it as best I can.  More to come.   Doug

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17 minutes ago, Jdmilnes2 said:

I am replacing jib and main halyards with 3/8" New England Ropes Sta-Set, and the wire is 1/8" 716 SS 716 strand wire.

Are you getting new wire halyards????

Why not switch to dyneema?

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2 hours ago, TwoLegged said:

Are you getting new wire halyards????

Why not switch to dyneema?

The mast head sheave (the original) is sized for wire.  There is a block system (some people refer to it as a gear-box) that is located atop the cabin hatch.  It has a slide on a track you hook a ball (crimped onto the wire portion of the jib) onto to make tensioning adjustments to the head stay.  For now I'm keeping the boat close to original.  Perhaps in a few years I'll switch it up.

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@Jdmilnes2  that sounds like the horrible halyard system on my old 420, back in the stone age.  I hope you don't have to wait too long to replace it with something nicer

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