Flying Tiger

[Marcus B 0]

Anyone know of any others that might become available sometime soon nearer the east coast than west.

 

have you sold your j-35 ?

 

Is your purchase of the ft10 dependent on first selling your j-35 ?

[Brent Cummings 0]

Not sold yet. It's a J105. A prospective buyer had it surveyed this weekend. So might lead to something. But yes can't buy anything until current boat is gone.

[Marcus B 0]

Not sold yet. It's a J105. A prospective buyer had it surveyed this weekend. So might lead to something. But yes can't buy anything until current boat is gone.

 

Let us know when your J/105 sale closes; I may have a lead for a good deal on a freshwater FT10.

[RumTumTigga 0]

Here is an action shot of Tigga, the Auckland NZ FT10 going down Auckland Harbour under reefed main, No4 jib and fractional Gennaker. Breeze was a 30Kt+ SouWesterly off the southern Ocean.Bloody cold. We were clocking over 20Kt at times.

 

[StayinStrewn 0]

Go Tigga!

[DSE 0]

Some FT10 fun in the PNW, Round the County 2016:

[Varan 350]

Is Tigger doing WIRW?

[DSE 0]

We want to, but getting full week away from work will be difficult. We are thinking about doing delta ditch.

[DSE 0]

Day 2 Round the County 2016:

[ctdriver 3]

Ok I'll say it - get rid of those old sails. Moving to a current generation set will make the boat faster and easier to sail. Call it a move from Gen 1 (the jib that blew and the dacron main) to gen 3 or 4 from any sailmaker who knows your local conditions.

[DSE 0]

Yep, already been down that road with the previous boat. It helped a little, but I've found that there are so many more priorities in making the boat fast than jumping into new sails. A big one is developing an experienced consistent crew. We've actually won quite a few club races with the current set. The main reason the jib blew up was because we should have been flying the heavy air jib.

[ctdriver 3]

Yep, already been down that road with the previous boat. It helped a little, but I've found that there are so many more priorities in making the boat fast than jumping into new sails. A big one is developing an experienced consistent crew. We've actually won quite a few club races with the current set. The main reason the jib blew up was because we should have been flying the heavy air jib.

Nice - great to hear you are on the right track. PM me if you Want to bounce ideas at all. We've had 8 great seasons with #71 - buoys and distance racing. It's been a great boat.

[DSE 0]

 

Yep, already been down that road with the previous boat. It helped a little, but I've found that there are so many more priorities in making the boat fast than jumping into new sails. A big one is developing an experienced consistent crew. We've actually won quite a few club races with the current set. The main reason the jib blew up was because we should have been flying the heavy air jib.

Nice - great to hear you are on the right track. PM me if you Want to bounce ideas at all. We've had 8 great seasons with #71 - buoys and distance racing. It's been a great boat.

 

 

Definitely a fun boat for us too, especially when we get other FT10s out. We've had some fun with Anarchy in the last couple races.

[Bob Perry 112]

Glad you guys are enjoying the boat.

[Team Subterfuge 4]

Glad you guys are enjoying the boat.

Bob-

After a boat is built, do you ever give any thought about what you might have done differently?

 

Looking back now, is there anything you would have done differently with the FT10?

 

If you think a response might cause a commotion, you can just say "wish it had been offered in more colors."

[Bob Perry 112]

Ship:

Yes, it's kind of an automatic response for me, i.e. what I should have done differently. When a boat is first launched it can be 99% perfect but all I will see for the first few months is the 1% I got wrong. It takes a while for me to warm up to my boats and let that troublesome 1%, maybe it's 5%, NOT define the boat. Over time the things I did right will overcome the faults. I think the quest for illusive "perfection" is what drives most designers.

 

If I had the FT 10m to do again I would:

Ignore the cries for headroom and drop the height of the cabin trunk.

Go with twin rudders.

 

I also would have camped at the boatyard while they refaired the entry to the plumb stem.

[Varan 350]

Ship:

Yes, it's kind of an automatic response for me, i.e. what I should have done differently. When a boat is first launched it can be 99% perfect but all I will see for the first few months is the 1% I got wrong. It takes a while for me to warm up to my boats and let that troublesome 1%, maybe it's 5%, NOT define the boat. Over time the things I did right will overcome the faults. I think the quest for illusive "perfection" is what drives most designers.

 

If I had the FT 10m to do again I would:

Ignore the cries for headroom and drop the height of the cabin trunk.

Go with twin rudders.

 

I also would have camped at the boatyard while they refaired the entry to the plumb stem.

+1 on the cabin, but it's a bit on the skinny side for dual rudders isn't it? Or are implying you would widen the ass end too?

 

Edit: Might also reconsider footrest positions, at least for the driver. I'm 6'2" and never could find that compfy spot. We really needed to flatten the boat, but when heeled, it was just not as compfy as other 10m sporties. No big deal. Still a fantastic boat to sail. Thank you.

[Bob Perry 112]

Varan:

Yes, I would probably carry B max all the way aft.

Not sure about the foot Bensons. I'm 6'3" but I suspect they were a group decision at the yard. The guy running the program at deck plug stage was about 5'6".

[DSE 0]

I'm 6'2" and the bensons are tough on the knees when heeled. Maybe I'll add a beer-holder/middle benson thing I thought I remember seeing somebody do here or have Dan K. do something with raptor deck.

[ZeeZee 2]

Varan:

Yes, I would probably carry B max all the way aft.

Not sure about the foot Bensons. I'm 6'3" but I suspect they were a group decision at the yard. The guy running the program at deck plug stage was about 5'6".

 

What are the typical trade-offs you need to make in wetter or not to make the transom wider? Wetted surface/light wind performance vs. early planing vs. upwind performance vs ????

[Tarnish 0]

I owned one for four years and there is not much I would change. I always thought the boat was beautiful - even the high cabin trunk. It sailed really well, too.

 

I wonder if the benefits of two rudders would be worth the added complexity?

 

I am not very tall so the footrest positions for the driver were perfect for me. Taller drivers, especially in breeze, would end up sitting with their upper body outside of the top lifeline (the video above shows an example of this). Besides being against the rules (as I understand them) it also usually meant that we were sailing the boat at too high of a heel angle. I wonder if the "European" lifeline set up on the Melges 32 applied to the Tiger would make the driving position more comfortable for taller people? This set up has largely been abandoned by the 32 fleet since it limits how hard the crew can hike off the back of the boat which is not as critical of a necessity on a Tiger.

[Bob Perry 112]

Thanks for that feed back Tarnish. Glad you enjoyed the boat.

[port tack 1]

I would have like a better Keel lifting system. Similar to the melges systems. A frame and chain come along just doesn't go with sport boat. I did enjoy the boat when I had it Bob.

[Varan 350]

BTW, nice job on all the mathematical CE mumbo jumbo... The boat is a pleasure to drive.

[Dubois 0]

+1 on the cabin... +1 on the B Max extending... but a removable underhull rudder would be my pick. Perhaps like the MD35 (tapered box with regular rudder stock/bearings) rather than the more complex (expensive) Melges 32 arrangement. But we're not complaining! We've had 9 years of fast fun... amazing bang for buck. Silencing most if not all of the critics.

[Bob Perry 112]

Bryce:

An under hull, removable rudder was considered and I was in favor of it but I was outvoted.

[DSE 0]

I haven't used the original designed rudder, but the Betts rudder has been working great for us. It has a real articulate, responsive feel to it.

 

I've ramp launched from the trailer many times now and have never had a problem with the keel hoist.

 

The engine hatch is the only other minor issue I've had. It got jammed up a couple races ago. What have other owners done to fix this?

[ctdriver 3]

I put water proof grease in the door track, and only move the door at very slow speeds, like under 2 knots. I also put lock-tite on the hardware as I had a few of the bits get loose in our 1st season. No trouble after that.

[Dubois 0]

I haven't used the original designed rudder, but the Betts rudder has been working great for us. It has a real articulate, responsive feel to it.

 

I've ramp launched from the trailer many times now and have never had a problem with the keel hoist.

 

The engine hatch is the only other minor issue I've had. It got jammed up a couple races ago. What have other owners done to fix this?

 

We had a F/G box made with a slit at the top that slides over the engine cav plate. Original door bolted to the bottom. The fin at the bottom of the engine leg is bolted to a couple of angles inside the box. It raises and lowers with the engine. Faultless.

 

[mcsailor0303 1]

Here's a project one for $15k

 

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/boa/5992443709.html

 

 

 

THIS RACING SAILBOAT IS LOCATED IN MARINA DEL REY IN A SLIP. IT IS MISSING THE BOOM, RUDDER, SOME RIGGING AND SAILS. IT HAS A NISSAN ENGINE (RETRACTABLE) AND VHF RADIO ETC... GREAT PROJECT BOAT. NO TIME WASTERS OR DREAMERS PLEASE

[Flyfishsail 0]

Anybody have an OEM cassette lying around they'd be willing to part with? I recently picked up a FT10m and there is some cracking on the bottom of the cassette. Looking to put money into sails before pulling the trigger on the Betts rudder.. Cheers.

[Dubois 0]

Anybody have an OEM cassette lying around they'd be willing to part with? I recently picked up a FT10m and there is some cracking on the bottom of the cassette. Looking to put money into sails before pulling the trigger on the Betts rudder.. Cheers.

Post a pic of it. It is probably cosmetic (bog cracks). I got fed up repairing ours and just cut a slice off!

[Flyfishsail 0]

 

Anybody have an OEM cassette lying around they'd be willing to part with? I recently picked up a FT10m and there is some cracking on the bottom of the cassette. Looking to put money into sails before pulling the trigger on the Betts rudder.. Cheers.

 

Post a pic of it. It is probably cosmetic (bog cracks). I got fed up repairing ours and just cut a slice off!

[port tack 1]

Grind it out and fix it.

[Dubois 0]

 

 

Anybody have an OEM cassette lying around they'd be willing to part with? I recently picked up a FT10m and there is some cracking on the bottom of the cassette. Looking to put money into sails before pulling the trigger on the Betts rudder.. Cheers.

Post a pic of it. It is probably cosmetic (bog cracks). I got fed up repairing ours and just cut a slice off!

 

Yep, it looks like just bog cracking. It's really quite minor. Ours was delaminating as well. All the strength is in the steel internals so it should not be an issue to just grind and fill. Whilst you're at it, we'd recommend replacing the OEM bolts that hold the bracket on the stern. The OEM ones are fully threaded which can eat into the fibreglass and allow movement. Replace with shanked bolts. Oh and then there's the bottom pintle the cassette pin goes through... it sees most of the load and the hole elongates. Check for movement there. We've bushed ours and that gets replaced periodically. I hate the barn door...

[Flyfishsail 0]

Great, that's good to hear. Ill grind it out and fix it. I think the lower bolts have already been changed to shanked ones. Ill check the uppers...

[Flyfishsail 0]

 

 

 

Anybody have an OEM cassette lying around they'd be willing to part with? I recently picked up a FT10m and there is some cracking on the bottom of the cassette. Looking to put money into sails before pulling the trigger on the Betts rudder.. Cheers.

Post a pic of it. It is probably cosmetic (bog cracks). I got fed up repairing ours and just cut a slice off!

Yep, it looks like just bog cracking. It's really quite minor. Ours was delaminating as well. All the strength is in the steel internals so it should not be an issue to just grind and fill. Whilst you're at it, we'd recommend replacing the OEM bolts that hold the bracket on the stern. The OEM ones are fully threaded which can eat into the fibreglass and allow movement. Replace with shanked bolts. Oh and then there's the bottom pintle the cassette pin goes through... it sees most of the load and the hole elongates. Check for movement there. We've bushed ours and that gets replaced periodically. I hate the barn door...

That's a great idea about the bushings, I'll look into that. Hopefully the barn door won't haunt us too long...

[DSE 0]

I know a lot FT10s have a fractional spinnaker halyard setup using a choker/inhauler. I've got a masthead crane and pulley figured out, but was wondering about how the choker/inhauler is rigged. Are people cutting a knockout for a sheave above the forestay fitting?

[boyscout 0]

On 8/31/2017 at 6:41 AM, DSE said:

I know a lot FT10s have a fractional spinnaker halyard setup using a choker/inhauler. I've got a masthead crane and pulley figured out, but was wondering about how the choker/inhauler is rigged. Are people cutting a knockout for a sheave above the forestay fitting?

I think if people have added a Frac they did it as an external Halyard. The West Coast USA boats only used it for Distance Races. 

[DSE 0]

1 hour ago, boyscout said:

I think if people have added a Frac they did it as an external Halyard. The West Coast USA boats only used it for Distance Races. 

That's what I have except I'm unsure on how to best rig the choker/inhauler part.

[CazzaRanda 0]

The tang to which the forestay is attached to, has a second hole right above the one used by the forestay (see picture). 

I always thought that if you have a second external spinnaker halyard you could attach a block there, and pass the halyard through that block on his way down.  

WARNING: I never actually did try this solution, as I wasn't sure that tang would be appropriate to take the load of the frack spi. Do your own assessment and tests if you want to give it a try...  While you are inspecting the mast take a look at the rivets that keep the tang attached to the mast. The forestay pulls quite hard there, and you may want to replace all of them, or those that might be pulling out as in the picture

 

 

 

[CazzaRanda 0]

Rather than using a fractional what we actually did was to build a small mast top kite, about 90 sqm I believe, much smaller and flatter than the class kite. It was still very fast, but much more manageable than class kite in strong winds or when shorthanded.   

[DSE 0]

Cazza, Thanks for the ideas. You are guys are looking good there. Lashing a friction ring to that hole in the forestay fitting crossed my mind as an option as well. I did find out that North Sails has a fractional 'kit', but they weren't clear on how they rig it.

[ctdriver 3]

The masts were all built with reinforcement where the headstay attaches to the mast - enough reinforced / sleeved area to cut and put in a new halyard exit block.  If I can find the PDF with the mast schematic I'll post it.  But bottom line - you can cut a hole for a fractional halyard no problem.

[DSE 0]

On 9/9/2017 at 11:15 AM, ctdriver said:

The masts were all built with reinforcement where the headstay attaches to the mast - enough reinforced / sleeved area to cut and put in a new halyard exit block.  If I can find the PDF with the mast schematic I'll post it.  But bottom line - you can cut a hole for a fractional halyard no problem.

Thanks for the info. I think the drawing would be helpful. I have been able to locate where the sleeve ends above the forestay. I'm assuming the block used is the same as the harken spinnaker halyard block.

[ctdriver 3]

Bingo - that's the block.  Will look for the drawings this weekend, but if you can "feel" the sleeve, you have a pretty good idea of where to cut.

[ctdriver 3]

Found it - here's the schematic from Mr. Perry's office.  Way back when, I asked the CST guys (who built the masts) if they built it to this design, and for liability reasons they wouldn't make a commitment one way or the other.  We checked my mast (hull 71) and the reinforcement is exactly where it was drawn.  It sounds like you found the sleeve in the same spot too - so you should be good to go.

FT10 fraction spin halyard.pdf

[mcsailor0303 1]

One from the double damn this year: http://www.iwasphotographed.com/Water/Sailboats/Vento-to-Hood-River-Sailing-Saturday-8517-44-images/i-fQPRbXm/A

[Car Ramrod 7]

Holy fuck

[SCANAS 186]

Great pic. 

[Varan 350]

Please move to the back of the bus.

[Monkey 115]

On 9/18/2017 at 5:07 PM, mcsailor0303 said:

One from the double damn this year: http://www.iwasphotographed.com/Water/Sailboats/Vento-to-Hood-River-Sailing-Saturday-8517-44-images/i-fQPRbXm/A

Those damned Perry boats just don’t seem to sit on their lines.

[Great Red Shark 48]

Man !    I haven't seen a boat do a stoppie like that since the Olsen 29 left our fleet.

 

[ryley 61]

holy cow. that sequence is insane. 

[dolphinmaster 3]

Looks like a big rock got in the way

[DSE 0]

Sandbar, not a rock.

[dolphinmaster 3]

9 hours ago, DSE said:

Sandbar, not a rock.

Excellent! much better!

[Hobbes802 0]

Wow, talk about testing out the parking brake!

[shaggy 42]

Good to see Snaps stuck to the backstay like glue..  Pro move there...  

[RumTumTigga 0]

FLYING TIGER MAST SET UP QUESTION

We have the mast out of Tigga ( the NZ FT10 racing in Auckland) to recoat the UV protection lacquer.

All is now ready to put the mast back in and I wonder if any one out there in FT land could help with answers to this question:

At what stage in the rig set up process do you pour in the the Sailtite mast chock material? Before you do the final tensioning on the rig or after the rig is finally tensioned?

This is the epoxy material that goes around the mast where it passes through the housing in the cabin top.

RTT

[Bulga Naba 0]

RT2

Before serious tension is applied, but after you have assured that the rig is centered at the partners (side to side and fore/aft).  We previously used a simple mast tensioning system to move the butt fore and aft, which was quite effective in changing gears, but abandoned it as giving us too much to think about.  Great product and easy to install, lasts indefinitely.  Good luck.  BN

[kelly 1]

We do not use sailtite or any other sealant in the partners. We made up some T shaped slides to take up the side to side movement, allows fore and aft movement.  Made from Nylon bread board.  Correct rig tension holds the rig where it should be.  We put a $10 rubber plumbing seal over the tees , clamped top and bottom with Stainless banding.  Works like a charm. You would have seen this set up on Balmain Tiger when you visited Sydney before purchasing your NZ Tiger. We get some lateral movement under Kite as we hear it squeak. Would rather that then have the rig bending from the partners. 

[DSE 0]

13 hours ago, kelly said:

We do not use sailtite or any other sealant in the partners. We made up some T shaped slides to take up the side to side movement, allows fore and aft movement.  Made from Nylon bread board.  Correct rig tension holds the rig where it should be.  We put a $10 rubber plumbing seal over the tees , clamped top and bottom with Stainless banding.  Works like a charm. You would have seen this set up on Balmain Tiger when you visited Sydney before purchasing your NZ Tiger. We get some lateral movement under Kite as we hear it squeak. Would rather that then have the rig bending from the partners. 

In the heavy upwind chop it seems like you'd still risk the mast hitting the forward area of the partners. Maybe putting more tension on the lower diagonals would keep this from happening? I've seen where a line is tied to the mast, back through an unused halyard clutch and then tightened to keep the mast from pumping forward. I suspect this may be the system MHK  had used as it also gives you the ability to slightly adjust the mast rake and lower fore/aft mast bend.

[Svanen 94]

On 2015-09-18 at 3:49 PM, Flying Spud said:

What about the 7.5 . How is that boat working out?

I have a 10m and would like to downsize, any comments?

No major problems with it. A few minor gripes:

• the position of the footrests is a very common complaint;
• the cuddy is extremely cramped, even for accessing bags etc. during daysailing. I can't believe they advertised this space as suitable for sleeping four people;
• the tiller/extension feel very loose/cheap/flimsy. In fairness, I have not experienced any actual failures;
• the locker in the cockpit floor leaks and is difficult to access underway.

[Stinger1 0]

• Don't know of anyone here in San Diego (4 boats) that has an issue with the foot blocks.  
• Concur that sleeping below would be difficult but acces to gear is relatively easy.  A cooler works well for step down.
• Tiller is not loose on any of the boats here.  It might not be overly attractive, but works just fine
• Locker does leak some but we haven't found it hard to access underway.

[TerrarToo 0]

Hi all, 

i am sailing on a flying tiger at LMYC (likeatiger) , over the past couple of weeks we have broken a couple of halyards out of the mast.

just wondering if anyone has the halyard lengths recorded somewhere , i have checked the flying tiger web site but doesn't have that info.

this would be appreciated .

nipper.

[Bill R 2]

On 10/30/2017 at 3:06 PM, TerrarToo said:

Hi all, 

i am sailing on a flying tiger at LMYC (likeatiger) , over the past couple of weeks we have broken a couple of halyards out of the mast.

just wondering if anyone has the halyard lengths recorded somewhere , i have checked the flying tiger web site but doesn't have that info.

this would be appreciated .

nipper.

have a had a look at the information I have, which is off a drawing by Perry showing the deck layout. It says all the halyards are 30.5m long which equals 100ft. Hpe that helps. May pay to  add a couple of meters more to be on the safe side. My spin halyard is a bit short side with the kite in the hatch 

Hope that helps, 

[neuronz 0]

On 30/10/2017 at 3:06 AM, TerrarToo said:

Hi all, 

i am sailing on a flying tiger at LMYC (likeatiger) , over the past couple of weeks we have broken a couple of halyards out of the mast.

just wondering if anyone has the halyard lengths recorded somewhere , i have checked the flying tiger web site but doesn't have that info.

this would be appreciated .

nipper.

If you have a measurement certificate with a sail plan and dimensions you can use those numbers and modify them according to your clutch layout.

Remember it is always easier to cut excess off.

[Team Subterfuge 4]

On 10/29/2017 at 7:06 PM, TerrarToo said:

Hi all, 

i am sailing on a flying tiger at LMYC (likeatiger) , over the past couple of weeks we have broken a couple of halyards out of the mast.

just wondering if anyone has the halyard lengths recorded somewhere , i have checked the flying tiger web site but doesn't have that info.

this would be appreciated .

nipper.

I am not sure how accurate these numbers from the factory, but ft10class.info is a good resource that I have used in the past.  Go to:  http://www.ft10class.info/resources and click on running rigging and go to third page.

[Bill R 2]

Help or advice please.

Flying Tiger down here in NZ goes very well in the light air races and the boat has just won the Nelson Regatta, the majority of races were in light winds. When the wind picks up to about 15 knots we start struggling on handicap as the others in the fleet are coming into their own. 

So any one got any good tips on making the boat go better in the windier stuff?  or can I just assume the handicap doesn't suit it on the windier days?  The sails are good apart from the running kite which has had lots of surgery.

Cheers

[Cutter 0]

On 11/2/2017 at 1:27 AM, Team Subterfuge said:

I am not sure how accurate these numbers from the factory, but ft10class.info is a good resource that I have used in the past.  Go to:  http://www.ft10class.info/resources and click on running rigging and go to third page.

The Halyards in that boat were built from a special order with International rope braid to suit the sheeves and Jammers. with a denser outer cover. Give them a call you'll find the diameter is a weird size..

 

[RumTumTigga 0]

On 1/26/2018 at 9:18 AM, Bill R said:

 

So any one got any good tips on making the boat go better in the windier stuff? 

Hi Bill, Congratulations on the Nelson Regatta win. 

We have the same question here in Auckland about fresh breeze performance in Tigga, Over about 15kts wind the S34's, 1020's/MRX's, E1050's etc start picking us off. Unless there is plenty of downwind work. Will also be interested in what others have worked out in other parts of the world.

RTT

 

[Dubois 0]

Sorry to say, there is no magic fix here… we’ve been racing the Tiger for 10 years (Sydney) and we’ve learned to accept that a single handicap will favour us on light days and punish us in pressure.  There’s the usual trim changes that will help (and a good J2 - J3) and an adjustable forestay makes stiffening up rig easy and worthwhile. But you can’t defeat physics… longer, heavier boats will close the gap in pressure.  At least until the Tiger starts to plane downhill.

Oh and one addition we’ve added that helps keep us in the game, is our new, larger spinnaker.  It’s around 122 sqm (say + 12 sqm over Class) and allows us to sail v. low (rotates really well), reducing the advantage sym bags will have. Gets to be a bit of a handful if pressure builds however... and it doesn’t like to be asked to go in a direction it prefers not to.  

[EVRaines 0]

sounds like that with a code zero would make a great all around boat.

[Bulga Naba 0]

Yes, putting a Code Zero on the Tiger is a game changer.  With ours, it proved itself time and again on offshore races getting thru the sticky patches and often leaving whole fleets behind.  Would recommend as a "must have" for any Tiger not wedded solely to W/L racing.  Of course, there is a hit in HandiCap racing and for that reason we carried two rating certificates and carefully considered expected conditions as we entered with the lower rating (6 secs).  Never regretted it as oftne the rating hit could be overcome with just a few minutes of Code sailing.,

[mcg00 0]

On 1/30/2018 at 6:32 PM, Dubois said:

Sorry to say, there is no magic fix here… we’ve been racing the Tiger for 10 years (Sydney) and we’ve learned to accept that a single handicap will favour us on light days and punish us in pressure.  There’s the usual trim changes that will help (and a good J2 - J3) and an adjustable forestay makes stiffening up rig easy and worthwhile. But you can’t defeat physics… longer, heavier boats will close the gap in pressure.  At least until the Tiger starts to plane downhill.

Oh and one addition we’ve added that helps keep us in the game, is our new, larger spinnaker.  It’s around 122 sqm (say + 12 sqm over Class) and allows us to sail v. low (rotates really well), reducing the advantage sym bags will have. Gets to be a bit of a handful if pressure builds however... and it doesn’t like to be asked to go in a direction it prefers not to.  

Which sail maker did you use for the new spin?

[Horse Hockey 0]

Front Page

[RumTumTigga 0]

On 4/30/2018 at 2:11 AM, Bulga Naba said:

Yes, putting a Code Zero on the Tiger is a game changer.  

Is your zero a masthead one?

I put a fractional Zero on Tigga and it certainly helps in slightly eased sheets angles in light to moderate breezes.

Am thinking about a Masthead Zero.  With only one masthead halyard am concerned we will run into problems if angles change and we want to go to the Gennaker.

RTT

[Meat Wad 31]

FT 10M on trailer for sale here in Channel Islands Harbor.
I think he is asking way too much so I imagine the price is negotiable.
The owner could never sail it to it's potential and was routinely beat by everyone.

http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/2006-flying-tiger-33-6664987/?refSource=standard listing#.WvcuT2gvw54

[ride2live 6]

18 hours ago, RumTumTigga said:

Is your zero a masthead one?

I put a fractional Zero on Tigga and it certainly helps in slightly eased sheets angles in light to moderate breezes.

Am thinking about a Masthead Zero.  With only one masthead halyard am concerned we will run into problems if angles change and we want to go to the Gennaker.

RTT

I have an old Farr 1020 with oversize sym chute and one halyard. On the rare occasions we had to change just drop one to deck slam on halyard and send new one up. We usually wasted more time worrying about it than actually doing it.

[ctdriver 3]

3 hours ago, ride2live said:

I have an old Farr 1020 with oversize sym chute and one halyard. On the rare occasions we had to change just drop one to deck slam on halyard and send new one up. We usually wasted more time worrying about it than actually doing it.

amen. We built a masthead zero with a short foot so we could haul ass in light jib reaching conditions.  When we have to shift to another kite, a fast drop and new hook up is really easy.

[Dubois 0]

On 5/1/2018 at 1:16 AM, mcg00 said:

Which sail maker did you use for the new spin?

It's a local loft... Sydney Sailmakers. Maybe not 'local' to you... Although at current exchange rates, you may be surprised at the bang for buck?    

[Bulga Naba 0]

On 5/12/2018 at 12:13 PM, Meat Wad said:

FT 10M on trailer for sale here in Channel Islands Harbor.
I think he is asking way too much so I imagine the price is negotiable.
The owner could never sail it to it's potential and was routinely beat by everyone.

http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/2006-flying-tiger-33-6664987/?refSource=standard listing#.WvcuT2gvw54

You can pick up Mile High Klub for much less and have a boat that can and has won inshore and offshore in light, medium, heavy  and very heavy.  Contact Chris Winnard for details.

 

 

[Bulga Naba 0]

On 5/11/2018 at 7:11 PM, RumTumTigga said:

Is your zero a masthead one?

I put a fractional Zero on Tigga and it certainly helps in slightly eased sheets angles in light to moderate breezes.

Am thinking about a Masthead Zero.  With only one masthead halyard am concerned we will run into problems if angles change and we want to go to the Gennaker.

RTT

Our Zero was Masthead, by Ullman

Fractional Kite by North

[Meat Wad 31]

On 5/16/2018 at 3:56 PM, Bulga Naba said:

You can pick up Mile High Klub for much less and have a boat that can and has won inshore and offshore in light, medium, heavy  and very heavy.  Contact Chris Winnard for details.

 

 

Not interested, I just thought  I would let others know as it is just sitting.

[dolphinmaster 3]

Scott,  How is # 13 going?  Any results? What made you go back to a tiger? Inquiring minds and all, Rick

[dolphinmaster 3]

On 5/20/2018 at 8:09 AM, dolphinmaster said:

Scott,  How is # 13 going?  Any results? What made you go back to a tiger? Inquiring minds and all, Rick

Rick, see link   http://sailinganarchy.com/?_ga=2.250995983.826379523.1527073542-211833943.1520600188

[SURGE 0]

Im new to the FT10M, bought one last fall, I just got a rating of 45..... After all I have read it doesn't seem like a fair rating. Where I race in particular I will have to give time to two 8 meters with 4x the sail area. Has anyone successfully appealed their rating and had it adjusted? 

[saboteer 1]

45 sounds reasonable. Judging by local results I think it’s a gift, should be closer to the mid to upper 30’s.  

[mcg00 0]

On 5/14/2018 at 11:51 PM, Dubois said:

It's a local loft... Sydney Sailmakers. Maybe not 'local' to you... Although at current exchange rates, you may be surprised at the bang for buck?    

I would love to fly over to Sydney and pick up a new sail ... but I'm over in Connecticut, USA. I've got a few Neil Pryde spinnakers and an Ullman. I'm in the market for an upgrade and am also looking to setup a Code 0. Thanks