Flying Tiger

[Christian 60]

10 hours ago, Mike Hunt said:

How functional is the interior of the FT10m?

(asking for my wife)

 

It's cramping - as i cramped camping - but palatial compared to the Viper

[Fishwater 0]

On 6/15/2018 at 6:23 PM, SURGE said:

I’d love it if we had another boat here, sucks the FT10 Class seems to have lost steam these past few years. I’m stuck in PHRF here for now.

I have one for sale in Atlanta.  Hull #35.  It's not officially listed anywhere but is for sale if anyone is interested.  PM me for details or text/call seven seven zero - five nine seven - eight nine eight nine.  

[mcg00 0]

Does anyone have the part number for the engine compartment fan on the FT10M? I have #81 and when the fan starts up, it makes a screeching sound which goes away after 30 seconds or so, it's just a matter of time before it stops.

[SURGE 0]

I’ll be down to my boat tonight and take a pic of the one on mine.

[Brent Cummings 1]

I may took a look at one not too far from me. Can you all list the usual suspect areas on this boat for me to look at?  Or the questions to ask as to upgrades. 

[SURGE 0]

Mcg00 what’s your email I have a good pic of mine but it’s too many kB to post apparently.

[SURGE 0]

My blower is a TMC 12v, 4.5 amp, 122cfm

[ctdriver 9]

I bought an exact replacement on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014VIKQVO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Dubois 0]

Yup, that's the one. We're on our third I believe. Surprisingly easy to get water in the line from the engine compartment; lay the boat over and the fan can get an unwanted wash.

 https://www.whitworths.com.au/blower-in-line  

[RumTumTigga 0]

In my FT10 the fan is there, it runs but is close to useless in the effect it has. Have checked to see if it is sucking from the engine box or blowing into it. It is sucking.

I put a new fan in several years ago but the result was the same, no noticeable effect.

If we motor for any distance we leave the engine box lid open. This lets plenty of air get to the engine carburettor but it is very noisy.

My boat has the Tohatsu 9.8 2 stroke engine. It runs reliably and trouble free.

Be interested to learn how other FT10 owners use their fan & engine.

RTT

[SURGE 0]

I have the four stroke 9.8, the only problem I seem to have with the blower is if we run the motor at idle or low speed the motor will choke out with the blower not running. The four stoke is quiet but once you are at high idle the vibration and noise is a bit much. Has anyone been able to dampen the noise in the motor well?

[Bill R 6]

On 8/7/2018 at 11:40 AM, RumTumTigga said:

In my FT10 the fan is there, it runs but is close to useless in the effect it has. Have checked to see if it is sucking from the engine box or blowing into it. It is sucking.

I put a new fan in several years ago but the result was the same, no noticeable effect.

If we motor for any distance we leave the engine box lid open. This lets plenty of air get to the engine carburettor but it is very noisy.

My boat has the Tohatsu 9.8 2 stroke engine. It runs reliably and trouble free.

Be interested to learn how other FT10 owners use their fan & engine.

RTT

I had engine problems and solved it by disconnecting the hose the fan blows the air through at the motor well end. A huge amount of water came out. I then made sure no other water was stuck in the hose, and found there was a plastic bag stuck in there as well. Once hooked up the engine ran well again and the amount of air coming out the vent near the stern was huge.  Worth checking that hose to make sure nothing is in there.

[RumTumTigga 0]

Good thought Bill. Will do the hose check this weekend.

RTT

[dolphinmaster 6]

So, the top four boats in the pursuit race in SD Scooter won were all FT10's , hmmm :-)

 

[kelly 3]

On 8/7/2018 at 9:40 AM, RumTumTigga said:

In my FT10 the fan is there, it runs but is close to useless in the effect it has. Have checked to see if it is sucking from the engine box or blowing into it. It is sucking.

I put a new fan in several years ago but the result was the same, no noticeable effect.

If we motor for any distance we leave the engine box lid open. This lets plenty of air get to the engine carburettor but it is very noisy.

My boat has the Tohatsu 9.8 2 stroke engine. It runs reliably and trouble free.

Be interested to learn how other FT10 owners use their fan & engine.

RTT

We  find that if there is any water in the line normally between fan and engine box the performance drops significantly. It's difficult to stop wet sections forming given the way the line runs over bulkheads.

[Ricky Bobby06870 0]

Just bought a FT10 and was thinking about adding a code 0 for distance racing. Has anyone put a bobstay on the pole to get adequate halyard tension? And if so, how do you recommend attaching it to the bow?

[SURGE 0]

We have a code 0 with a torsion rope and use a continuous line furler on the bow sprit. It’s a nice set up for distance racing and it’s great to have the capability to roll the sail up quickly if the wind were to come up rapidly.

[Cazzate 13]

5 hours ago, Ricky Bobby06870 said:

Just bought a FT10 and was thinking about adding a code 0 for distance racing. Has anyone put a bobstay on the pole to get adequate halyard tension? And if so, how do you recommend attaching it to the bow?

Does your FT have a trailer ? If so you could attach bob stay to bow eyebolt used for winch rope/trailer safety chain 

[Ricky Bobby06870 0]

That is what I may end up doing by default, but it is only about 2 or 3 inches below the bowsprit, so does not give a strong downward vector when the pole is extended.

[boyscout 0]

On 9/3/2018 at 1:55 PM, Ricky Bobby06870 said:

That is what I may end up doing by default, but it is only about 2 or 3 inches below the bowsprit, so does not give a strong downward vector when the pole is extended.

Getting the bobstay lower is better...but you will need some help with boat building

[RumTumTigga 0]

We got a code zero for our FT10 in NZ 3 seasons ago. We installed  a Bobstay so that the luff of the zero could be kept tight and the roller fuller would work. We have not had any problems with this set up. Here are a few shots to show you what we did.

1) This shot is of the prod extended and the bobstay set up. Gives you an overall view of our set up.

 

2) The second shot is the detail of how we fastened the bobstay on the bow.Just above the waterline and approx 2inches in from the bow we drilled a 10mm diameter hole through. Into this we inserted a piece of thick walled 10mm OD carbon tube. Them spliced the spectra loop through this.

 

 

This set up has been working well for 3 seasons now.

RTT

[Ricky Bobby06870 0]

Awesome! Thanks.

[ctdriver 9]

If you try to attach a strop to the trailer/bow eye you deserve what you get - that's a stupid idea.

Put a proper strop on down near the waterline as illustrated above.  All the research I did for #71 said that the strop wasn't critical, but to improve luff tension and overall sail shape the strop is a huge winner - for a very cheap investment.  

The other part is that with a strop and higher luff tensions you'll have higher loads on your tack line.  We moved our pole-out line to a 3:1 to handle the higher loads and keep a stock setup.

 

[Dubois 0]

On 9/6/2018 at 9:41 AM, RumTumTigga said:

We got a code zero for our FT10 in NZ 3 seasons ago. We installed  a Bobstay so that the luff of the zero could be kept tight and the roller fuller would work. We have not had any problems with this set up. Here are a few shots to show you what we did.

1) This shot is of the prod extended and the bobstay set up. Gives you an overall view of our set up.

 

2) The second shot is the detail of how we fastened the bobstay on the bow.Just above the waterline and approx 2inches in from the bow we drilled a 10mm diameter hole through. Into this we inserted a piece of thick walled 10mm OD carbon tube. Them spliced the spectra loop through this.

 

 

This set up has been working well for 3 seasons now.

RTT

I'm curious... given how tender the Tiger can be and how powerful a zero is, what wind range would you use it in? 

[RumTumTigga 0]

On 10/5/2018 at 5:38 PM, Dubois said:

I'm curious... given how tender the Tiger can be and how powerful a zero is, what wind range would you use it in? 

on the wind up to 5 - 7 Kts true wind speed. With sheets just cracked up to about 12Kts TWS.

The onboard discussion often goes like this......"What does it look like at the next mark?" "Eased sheets, might be a bit tight for the Gennaker tho" "Should we stay with the J2 then or peel to the Fractional Zero?" "Wind is light enough, lets go to the Zero, there is enough space in the course to lay off a bit if we need to."

So i guess the more complete answer is there is no hard and fast rule it is a judgement call when we are out there.The Fr0 has been a race winner for us in some situations.

Also when we were thinking about a zero we discussed in detail between ourselves and our local Norths guru whether we should go to a masthead zero or a Fractional zero. Taking into account that the Tiger is fairly tender and easily driven we decided on a Fractional Zero. This also meant we had the masthead halyard available for a peel to the MH Gennaker if the wind angle changed.

RTT

[redboat 1]

I'm certain this has been previously discussed but..............

Has an FT10 ever done the Transpac? Singlehanded, Doublehanded or fully crewed?

Downwind flyer and success in coastal races but do structural or design limitations make it unwise to consider the boat for the event?

In addition to emergency rudder, solar panels and electrical system redo,  what rig or structural modifications would be prudent?

.....or just buy a tried and true Olson 30 and work with that?

[tweaker 7]

I always thought the FT 10 would be a great boat for the T pac . Carefully prepped. I did it on a Col 32 and did many costal runs(SF to SB) on a Hendo 30 . Flexible solar panels, lithium batteries, Maybe a 2.0 -4.0 Torqeedo and  2kw Honda for continuous running, and spare rudders. 4 crew max.Not sure where they might need to be reinforced. 

[SCANAS 291]

Modified Melges 32 went in 2016

[solosailor 38]

....  and in '18 with a class win.

[Bulga Naba 0]

As a just recently former Owner who has thrashed offshore many times with our MHK, I would not hesitate on a "structural basis"  (unless you consider my advancing age part of the structure) , given final satisfaction with the Betts V4 rudder, and a custom spare rudder/cassette for serious offshore work.  Beyond what owners will naturally do - new bolts and reinforcement at stern for rudder attachment, stronger stanchions, secure keel and fill keel/hull gap, better gasket at the sprit, maybe remove the kelp cutter to solve one potential fire hose effect.  Check spreader saddles. (caveat - more work required on maybe the first 20 hulls that were still working out some kinks)  Crew of 4 would do nicely, but double handed PacCup could work too.  Only concern would be weighing her down with all the required equipment and H20 could adversely affect performance; but others have solved that a la the Melges and Columbia 32s.  Not saying I would be up for it (Maybe Cabo would be my personal limit on a Tiger) but a group of young chargers could make it work and have a ball doing it.  (Note:  Years back a Tiger Owner in Portland area was giving it serious thought for a while, but then backed off)

 

[longy 108]

The designer advised against extended offshore races.

[solosailor 38]

Quote

Not saying I would be up for it (Maybe Cabo would be my personal limit on a Tiger) but a group of young chargers could make it work and have a ball doing it.

You'll never find out now as the minimum length has been upped to 38ft.

[jackolantern 170]

Wait, for what?

[solosailor 38]

Cabo.

[SURGE 0]

Has anyone modified the exit sheave boxes in the mast to allow for additional halyards? I have sent emails to CST composites to see if they would give any insight but have yet to get any response. I would like to avoid using exterior halyards with a modified mast head carrier if possible. I really would like to have a spare jib and spin halyard. Have any of you done this modification?

[DSE 0]

I don't think there is a good way to put a second sheave (2 side by side) in the mast head without doing major modifications to the masthead. There's not much room in the carbon fiber either. You could put one below the existing, but it wouldn't be as strong as the original as you wouldn't be able to tie in to the masthead structure. You also lose a few inches of height. The masthead carrier is way simpler. A second jib halyard would be nice. It would be nice for sail changes. Again though, it seems a side by side sheave would need a significant hole cutout in the mast and would really weaken it. 

The harken 51mm 310 are the sheaves currently used https://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=310 

 

 

 

[boyscout 0]

On 11/23/2018 at 6:29 AM, SURGE said:

Has anyone modified the exit sheave boxes in the mast to allow for additional halyards? I have sent emails to CST composites to see if they would give any insight but have yet to get any response. I would like to avoid using exterior halyards with a modified mast head carrier if possible. I really would like to have a spare jib and spin halyard. Have any of you done this modification?

Yes we have on the A4. Works great. 

[DSE 0]

15 hours ago, boyscout said:

Yes we have on the A4. Works great. 

How did you guys do it?

[EVRaines 0]

On 11/27/2018 at 3:40 PM, boyscout said:

Yes we have on the A4. Works great. 

so can you still sail One Design with that configuration?

 

[Mike Hunt 10]

One design?  The FT10's are just PHRF boats at this point.

[boyscout 0]

On 11/28/2018 at 10:32 PM, EVRaines said:

so can you still sail One Design with that configuration?

 

Sure you can We mouse out the second halyard. We had put a second halyard on USA 11 10 years ago and that's when there was a real OD fleet in San Diego with 11 boats racing. 

[boyscout 0]

On 11/28/2018 at 7:08 AM, DSE said:

How did you guys do it?

Had a rigger cut in a new shive at the top of the rig, cut a new exit down low. Add turning block at the base of the mast and a clutch in the pit. 

[Svanen 147]

On 11/30/2018 at 11:19 AM, Mike Hunt said:

One design?  The FT10's are just PHRF boats at this point.

Seems like (?) a dead class. What is the current status? Specifically:

(1) is OD racing available anywhere in the world?

(2) when was the FT10 last manufactured?

[SURGE 0]

I believe they still race OD in Cali, and the last hull #118 was delivered in August of 2015 as far as I know.

[Svanen 147]

Thanks Surge.

So: not quite dead, but comatose and without benefit of an ICU.  Too bad.

[SURGE 0]

I wish it would have taken off it’s a great boat! I did ask Tom at Flying Tiger Boats about what a new build costs these days (about 90k to get it to the US) if I remember right. I was just wondering when I was looking into buying one. I have hull #26 currently.

[RumTumTigga 0]

LIFTING THE KEEL ON A FT10

i have the FT10 in Auckland NZ. She lives in a Marian berth and I don't think the keel has been lifted since she was launched in 2010.

I have what looks like a Tripod arrangement that has never been used.

Does anyone in FT10 world have any photos or diagrams of how the Tripod arrangement is fitted and set up on the boat?

Thanks

RTT

[Team Subterfuge 5]

On 1/8/2019 at 1:09 AM, RumTumTigga said:

LIFTING THE KEEL ON A FT10

i have the FT10 in Auckland NZ. She lives in a Marian berth and I don't think the keel has been lifted since she was launched in 2010.

I have what looks like a Tripod arrangement that has never been used.

Does anyone in FT10 world have any photos or diagrams of how the Tripod arrangement is fitted and set up on the boat?

Thanks

RTT

Since no one else has chimed in with a response and photo, I'll give it a try.  Sorry, I do not have any photos.

1.  Remove both vang blocks near the mast on the cabin top.

2.  There are two rods - approximately 3/4" in diameter - with the tri-pod/Bi-pod.  Attach the rods with pins at the locations where the vang blocks  were previously removed .

3.  The Bi-pod has slots cut in each foot.  Slide the slot in the Bi-pod feet on the port and starboard chain plates.  As I recall there is only one way the bi-pod fits and the Bi-pod should be angle toward the stern.

4.  Attach the other end of the rods, described above, to the B-i-pod.  The Bi-pod should now be rigid and stable.

5.  Attach chain hoist to shackle on Bi-pod.

6.  The rest should be obvious.

Note:  Do not raise the keel more than necessary.  It is possible to have the keel bulb against the hull and still have room between the top of the keel and Bi-pod.  (Which makes it mechanically possible to try and pull the keel bulb up through the bottom of the boat.)  Once raised, the keel can move about in the trunk - fore, aft, and side to side. I would recommend having some foam or other packing to wedge the keel in place.  Otherwise, the keel is like a clapper in a bell and can swing about.

[DSE 0]

[RumTumTigga 0]

Thanks Subterfuge for the write-up and DSE for the pics.

All is clear now.

I got the Bi-Pod thing and the rods when I took over the boat but did get a chain block. So  next weeks job when everyone is back at work is to go and buy a chain block.

RTT

 

[DSE 0]

This is what I'm using. I think it's 2 ton. I think the previous owner replaced the chain loop used for hoisting with SS and shortened to 2-3 feet (0.7-1.0 m) so that it doesn't snag on the cabin top. It's kind of awkward to use when hoisting and not very efficient, but does work. I thought about going to a ratcheting type, but wouldn't know which one to go with or if it would work any better.

 

[Cazzate 13]

Hey rum tum are you planning on dry sailing tigga ?

[RumTumTigga 0]

9 hours ago, Cazzate said:

Hey rum tum are you planning on dry sailing tigga ?

No.

As far as I know the keel has not been lifted since she was launched in 2010. So I am planning on lifting the keel to check things out, see if the process works, and make sure everything is OK.

RTT