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Ajax

Catalina 30 window seal kit

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My Catalina guru is on sabbatical right now, so I figured I'd ask this question in the general forum-

 

The Pearson 30 can use the Catalina 30 window seal kit because they share the same aluminum frame. See graphic:

 

http://www.catalina30.com/techlib/leakingwindows/leakingwindows.htm

 

From this diagram, I'm not quite sure where I'm supposed to be injecting the sealing goo.

Do I inject it in the aluminum channel that the new seal and glass ride in?
Do I inject it in the seal channel that the glass rides in?

 

Ignore the text in the graphic. It describes a half-assed approach to re-sealing the windows that involves cutting out the dry, leaking section and injecting enough goo to stop a leak.

I'm doing a total replacement of the seal with a new one and re-sealing the aluminum frame to the cabin top. I already have the materials and I'd like to try it this way first, so let's hold off on the discussion of cutting new polycarbonate windows and using VHB tape.

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I did this job awhile back on my Catalina. Ended up leaking worse than before. Some say it may take 3-4 re-dos before it takes. It took a buddy and I an entire day and we got them all done. I actually ended up doing what they are calling for in this sketch without seeing it and eventually cut out the gasket between the frame and glass on the exterior and filled with silicone. Still didn't stop the leaks. In the spring im going to pull them all out again but not rebuild them, just re-seal the silicone portion and rebed them to the boat using butyl tape. Hopefully does the trick.

 

But yea, the "trick" they are calling for in the diagram is what I described as cutting the gasket, then applying silicone or your favorite sticky stuff. Hope this helps.

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I only need to do two windows, thank goodness. The rest are sound.

I tried doing one and *almost* got it. There is a bunch-up in one corner and the water gets in there. I think I have the plan now, and I'll re-do it.

Butyl on the metal frame worked well.

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Hey i am still here! KWRW is still a few days away! :DB)

 

I know we've talked offline, but what I really think STOPPED the leaking was removing the 1977 glass and replacing with the same 3/16" thickness plexi..it conforms to the cabin house compound curves much more better.

 

Details in an e-mail I've already sent..just happened upon this thread while packing for Key West!

 

No bunch ups..that is why you have the huge roll of channel if needed.

 

I also really like butyl for the alum. to deck seal. You can see it just oozing out here.

 

post-4755-0-67412000-1452658706_thumb.jpg

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That's a pretty good idea.

 

Im not exactly a fan of the lexan retrofit kits that just go over the opening. Always looked funky. What you've done still retains the stock look. That being said, Im also not exactly a fan of a damp interior and all of my cushions are out being reupholstered right now.

 

Did you bring your glass to someone to use for templates, or did you cut them yourself?

 

Also, I know between the different materials (lexan, acrylic, plexi, etc.) some of them have much better UV resistance. Is what you used one of the more resistant ones?

 

Sorry, not trying to steal the thread here but I think it's relevant. If you could follow up on your work with some details and maybe pictures, It would really help Ajax. You doing this soon?

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HB used the original glass as a template. He had the plexi cut a little larger and used a router to trim to fit them himself.

I saw his pictures awhile back. If I can dig them up, I'll post them.

 

I got a router for Xmas but I barely understand how to use it and I don't have a router table yet...or even bits!

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Don't replace the glass with regular ol' plexiglass unless you really, really can't find any "cell-cast acrylic." Regular acrylic ("plexiglass") is doped with stuff to make the acrylic flow better when molding, extruding, or rolling. These dopants, combined with the mechanical effects of fabrication, result in short-chain, low-molecular weight plastic that is not UV-resistant. Cell-cast acrylic, on the other hand, is undoped and cast. It takes longer to fabricate this way, so the material is more expensive, but it's dopant-free and the polymer chains are longer so the plastic is much more UV-resistant. In fact, UV (down to about 300 nm) passes through cell-cast acrylic and will UV-damage your interior fabrics much faster. But at least the plastic won't get brittle, hazed, or cracked.

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HB used the original glass as a template. He had the plexi cut a little larger and used a router to trim to fit them himself.

I saw his pictures awhile back. If I can dig them up, I'll post them.

 

I got a router for Xmas but I barely understand how to use it and I don't have a router table yet...or even bits!

 

My wife got this portable work bench for me a few months ago from Home Depot. It's quite stable and appears to be rather sturdy. It has a router opening at its center so you can use it as a router table, too. The legs come off and store underneath the top.

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-8-ft-x-3-ft-Portable-Jobsite-Workbench-225047/205887786

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We did use the Catalina-direct kit on our 1983 Catalina 30 4 years ago and it is still ok. We kept the original glass and frame but we really cleaned the old silicone, its a bicth, which took about 4 days. We filled the frame and gasket with the Dow silicone supplied in the kit and used butyl to seal the frame to the cabin top. The gasket in the bottom corner of the largest port always kind of flares out becaus of the sharp radius but there enough silicone the fill the gap.

 

After 4 years the butyl is still oozing and attracks dirt but we did not find any infiltration yet.

 

I hope this helps,

 

Ti-Mousse

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We do not use the "u" shaped rubber gasket

We fill the groove with PLRoof and Flashing sealant and let it cute for a day or two then cut away tgec cameos that oozes out ever anywhere

Then we install the window frame with enough 5200 to ooze out in every direction

 

If the caulk doesn't ooze out, you can guarantee you missed that are.

 

Never have sealed any window a second time

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^^ I would humbly recommend against 5200. About 19 years ago I re-bedded two leaky portlights with 5200. The portlights started leaking again last year. I dread the removal job. I bought some methylene chloride (aka dichloromethane, main component of Debond) but fear it will dissolve the rubber frames. I'll probably use it conservatively along with one of them newfangled vibrators.

 

A year or two after re-bedding those two portlights I re-bedded the others with some kind of silicone, I don't remember what. They look terrible where I wiped off the excess silicone that squeezed out and onto the gelcoat, but none of them are leaking. Next time it's going to be silicone one well-masked surfaces.

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Islander Jack - newfangled vibrators?

I know re-bedding windows is an unsatisfying task, but I've never felt the need to resort to a vibrator, much less a newfangled one. What's up with that?

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Dumb joke on my part too. I know what you meant.

 

Gets snippy around my office when I haven't been sailing for three months...

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I too used the Catalina kit. I just couldn't bring myself to follow their instructions on filling the frame and the gasket with silicone sealant (Dow 795, included in the kit). What a mess that would be. Instead, I used a thin layer of silicone grease (Dow High Vacuum Grease) which I have on hand in the shop. My reasoning being that if I was wrong and it leaks, it would be relatively easy to clean up and re-do it their way. But if my way works: bonus.

 

I also used a heat gun to gently coax the gasket into conforming to the acute angles on the Ericson portlites.

 

The Catalina kit includes 3M 4000 for the aluminum to house seal. However, at the last minute, I decided to replace all of my lites, and by the time the new glass arrived, it was too cold and wet to properly clean up the openings. So I just "temporarily" put them in with some strips of RV butyl tape. So far, actually, so good.

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So did the silicone grease work? No leaks?

I'm a firm believer in high quality butyl for the frame-to-house mating surface.

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