Doug Lord

Steve and Dave Clarks Unidentified Foiling Object

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On 12/24/2018 at 4:56 PM, upnatum said:

Instead of adding the eye ring to the threaded rod I just added a loop to the existing eye.

IMG_7490.jpg

 

On 12/24/2018 at 9:47 PM, koolkat505 said:

upnatum-- NO!!!  I am pretty sure you run the risk of pulling the fitting out of the top of the rudder--  See back some earlier posts--- the fitting is only screwed into a plastic piece, fine for holding down, NG for lifting up!!   #58

 

On 12/25/2018 at 3:09 AM, Claire1000 said:

No! You’ll pull it off unless it’s being made differently now. And once you pull it off it’s a pain. Switch to the brilliant eye nut. Happy sailing!

Thank you all.  I had rigged with the same "solution."  Is there a good source for the dos and do nots of rigging?  I have a little bit of a challenge of a long gradual sloping beach to launch from and generally either on or offshore breeze so gonna have to be careful with foils (raising lowering and sailing in and out). 

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UFO sailors we have our first confirmed regatta of the winter circuit. We've been invited to sail with the Moths in their Winter Series at the Upper Keys Sailing Club in Key Largo, FL. The first event is January 25-27 and here's the event website for registration (http://www.regattanetwork.com/event/18055) and the NOR (http://www.regattanetwork.com/clubmgmt/regatta_uploads/18055/FoilingMidwinters2019.pdf). The second event is March 1-3 and we're still waiting for an NOR on that one, but I've been told it will be published very soon. Additionally, there's a house next door where boats can be stored in the yard for a fee between the two events. PM me for contact info and details on how to reserve that or any other questions that you have about the event. Finally, the Fulcrum trailer will have at least one extra spot on it heading down to the events and back to RI in the spring, so if you're interested in that let me know.

Hope to see many of you in Key Largo for some foiling.

-Nick

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4 UFOs registered already! Beating every other fleet by 4.

Also the first batch of 6 square meter heavy wind (or lightweight) sails arrived! Check out that Safety Orange! Also I can't resist sharing this picture of the new deck pad color options. Old favorites and new head-turners. 

Also a note to Stanno on review of the above images: More positive angle on the rudder. Three more turns over the top of the wheel to starboard will do it.

DRC

production 6 sail.jpg

Rainbow.jpg

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Now there are five--#58

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On 12/27/2018 at 11:14 AM, Wess said:

 

 

Thank you all.  I had rigged with the same "solution."  Is there a good source for the dos and do nots of rigging?  I have a little bit of a challenge of a long gradual sloping beach to launch from and generally either on or offshore breeze so gonna have to be careful with foils (raising lowering and sailing in and out). 

I ordered an M5 stainless lifting ring  on line and installed it. Works fine. Thanks.

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We were blessed to be able to take our boat yesterday on on a warm Texas January day. Even though we haven't sailed in almost 2 years (had a baby), aren't amazing sailors to begin with, and we were both able to get up and foil and somehow I pulled off my best day yet. We've been a bit out of the loop for a while and probably still will be but it was great to go play. I think you may be able to see a video here.

"https://www.facebook.com/plugins/video.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FClaire1000%2Fvideos%2F10104815232367623%2F&show_text=0&width=560" width="560" height="315" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allowFullScreen="true"></iframe>

Things we maybe did better-

  1. Tensioned the rig tight. Not insane and didn't measure but it plucked like a guitar string. 
  2. Didn't screw with pin placement or rear foil trim really at all. Put it in the middle and focused on butt placement and keeping the sail eased. 
  3. Kept the wand at a more appropriate level. 
  4. Got more physical overall with the boat with hiking and pumping. I'm tired.

I am constantly fighting with our foils falling off the struts when I'm trying to attach the upper nuts. Our hold up spinny things don't hold up the foils. Anyone have any ideas? I'd like to just leave the foils on the struts so can we make a washer and nut that goes through the hull or something? 

What's the new methods for holding the front strut and rudder  up while going in? 

That little trick of just sticking a piece of rope under the rudder hold on washer and using it to pull up is a great one.

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Claire, great to see you're getting back out on the boat. Overall your self-coaching tips were very astute. Boat looked good in the video, but link seemed a little messed up. I have no idea how to share a facebook video outside facebook (I think that's part of their business model), but the video has been shared through the Fulcrum Speedworks facebook account for anyone who wants to see it.

Here's some quick answers to your questions. 

You don't want a washer and nut that goes through the hull or rudderhead. If there's no washer on the top of the rudder, it can fall through the rudderhead and sink all the way to the bottom (if the rudder downhaul isn't 8-knotted, so it can't pull through the jam cleat on the tiller). Rudders have been lost this way, so you want to have a nice big washer there. On the mainfoil you need the washer to distribute the load, so you don't damage the sprit when cranking on the foils nice and tight. Instead, put the foils together with the struts horizontal to the ground (say sitting on a picnic table), but don't put the nuts on them. Then load them into a hull that has been capsized on the dolly, using the mast as a kickstand. This way the horizontals are held into the struts by gravity while you're getting the nuts tightened up. Additionally, if you have a big enough car (really a van or truck), you can just pull the pintle pin for the rudder and remove the whole rudder assembly (foil, strut and rudderhead/tiller) from the boat fully assembled. Doesn't fit in my Mustang in this configuration, but works just fine the company van.

For keeping up the rudder on the way in, we now have thumb screws on newer boats (since hull #115-ish) that act as a friction brake to hold the rudder up. On your rudderhead, you'll notice there's a small hole in the side plate on either side. You dead end the rudder downhaul with an 8-knot in the hole on the port side, and on the starboard side you can tap the hole with a 1/4"-20 thread. We can send you a thumb screw that will screw into that and act as a friction brake. You can also find 1/4"-20 nylon thumb screws in most good hardware stores.

-Nick

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On 8/27/2018 at 7:57 AM, Jedel said:

I seem to have lost the (nylon?) thin ring that is fitted as a wear ring below the mast step.

Does anyone know what material this this? and if this a custom part? 

PTEX. It's the material that forms the bottoms of skis between the steel edges. We've been using it on and off for a decade for wear applications since it's proven to be very tough. By the numbers high density polyethelene will also work. It's cut with a set of intersecting hole-saws, like a very angry russian nesting doll.

DRC

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On 1/8/2019 at 7:11 AM, Dave Clark said:

PTEX. It's the material that forms the bottoms of skis between the steel edges. We've been using it on and off for a decade for wear applications since it's proven to be very tough. By the numbers high density polyethelene will also work. It's cut with a set of intersecting hole-saws, like a very angry russian nesting doll.

DRC

Dave:  At the clinic you were advocating lubricating the PTEX ring with lard.  I know some sailors use silicone, others vasoline.   We all agree that some sort of periodic lubrication is necessary. 

Consider buying a bottle of the DPS Phantom lifetime ski treatment.  It is designed to impregrate PTEX bases and provide a lifetime of lubrication.   I've spoken to a few skiers that have used it for two seasons, and so far are impressed.  I don't know if it only excels at the PTEX to snow interface, or if it would provide 'lifetime' slipperiness for the PTEX to fiberglass interface on the UFO.  By my calcuations, a kit that has treats a pair of skis should cover 100 of the rings, so for $99 it would cost a buck a boat.  Seems like a pretty easy, cheap R&D project!

https://www.dpsskis.com/phantom-glide

Doug

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What am I supposed to do with my bucket of lard then?  JK. 

And seriously though, I know the rudder and foil need the big washer but still wish there was a way to hold the foil on the strut for install. Oh well. 

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Claire: I screw the threaded rod to the foil horizontal first. With lubricant but I make it tight.

Then I slide the foil vertical. Takes a few tries for the rod to find the top hole but it isn't too hard.

In fact with this procedure I don't capsize the boat for the main foil. I put the main foil horizontal under the foil trunk... Add the rod, then the foil vertical...

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Should also say -- I'm very happy with the Velcro hooks tape on the main foil. Slop is gone, and it's trivial to do.

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12 hours ago, martin.langhoff said:

In fact with this procedure I don't capsize the boat for the main foil. I put the main foil horizontal under the foil trunk... Add the rod, then the foil vertical...

I use the same procedure for the main foil and for the rudder without capsizing the boa.

I protect the horizontal foils from the ground by using carpets.

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22 hours ago, Claire1000 said:

What am I supposed to do with my bucket of lard then?  JK. 

And seriously though, I know the rudder and foil need the big washer but still wish there was a way to hold the foil on the strut for install. Oh well. 

Claire, there is one thing I forgot to mention. If you shim the stocks of your foils, so the fit between the vertical and the horizontal is very tight, friction alone will hold the horizontals into the verticals.

I did this on my boat with a couple wraps of packing tape, which will wear out with use and need to be replaced occasionally. You can also thicken your stocks with something more permanent like epoxy, but if you overdo this you have a lot of sanding to do in order to get your foils into your verticals. If you put too much packing tape on, it only takes seconds to peel it off. So I suggest starting with tape.

Once you've shimmed the stocks you'll need a rubber mallet to assemble and disassemble your foils. I like to wrap a soft towel around the foil to protect it from scratches and then hammer it into the vertical. **Please note**, when hammering in your foils don't hit the tips or trailing edge with the rubber mallet. Hitting the tips or trailing edge of your foil with anything is a good way to break something. When hammering in you should smack the foil directly underneath the stock and you should avoid hitting the flap on the mainfoil. When hammering your foils back out, you can hit the foil directly adjacent to the vertical and switch sides occasionally as you go, so the stock stays aligned in the vertical and comes out smoothly. Additionally, you should do this with the tie-rod already threaded into the stock. Otherwise you'll be fishing around in the vertical with the tie-rod to try to get the threads started.

With your foil connection so tight the horizontal must be hammered into the vertical, gravity certainly isn't going to cause them to come apart.

-Nick

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21 minutes ago, burritoughs said:

gravity certainly isn't going to cause them to come apart.

There's a number of things that pull down. I've had foils tangled in boats' mooring lines. And in crab / lobster trap recovery lines. It's hard to untangle, the sail is loaded, the foil is deep... Not yet on the UFO, but definitely on the Whisper.

I'll keep the threaded rod :-)

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22 minutes ago, martin.langhoff said:

There's a number of things that pull down. I've had foils tangled in boats' mooring lines. And in crab / lobster trap recovery lines. It's hard to untangle, the sail is loaded, the foil is deep... Not yet on the UFO, but definitely on the Whisper.

I'll keep the threaded rod :-)

Whoa there. Guess I have a clarification to make. Going to edit the original post as well as this is very important.

***You still must use the "threaded rod" or tie-rod, to hold the foil assembly together.***

My suggestion only intended to solve the problem of the horizontal and vertical falling apart on the yacht club lawn while you're trying to put the boat together. When you're underway, you 100% NEED the tie-rod to keep the foil assembly together.

-Nick

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So I can't edit the original post anymore (quoted below), but I'm going to repeat myself to be absolutely clear. 

***The tie-rod is a REQUIRED part of the foil assembly.*** It must be done up tight to hold the foils together. If you don't use the tie-rod to hold the foil assembly together, you will have an expensive and unhappy day losing important parts of your boat (like the hydrofoils).

My post merely addressed the problem of carrying the foils across the parking lot to put them in your boat when you're assembling it. Under those circumstances the friction from wrapping the stock in tape will mean the horizontal doesn't drop out of the vertical as you're trying to put it into the hull. Under any other circumstances the tie-rod is REQUIRED to hold the foil assembly together.

Additionally, the tape will wear out over time, and the horizontal will loosen up and again be able to fall out due to gravity. When you notice it getting loose, you can either be careful to hold both the horizontal and the vertical when carrying the foils, or redo the tape so friction keeps the pieces together during the assembly process.

-Nick

 

49 minutes ago, burritoughs said:

Claire, there is one thing I forgot to mention. If you shim the stocks of your foils, so the fit between the vertical and the horizontal is very tight, friction alone will hold the horizontals into the verticals.

I did this on my boat with a couple wraps of packing tape, which will wear out with use and need to be replaced occasionally. You can also thicken your stocks with something more permanent like epoxy, but if you overdo this you have a lot of sanding to do in order to get your foils into your verticals. If you put too much packing tape on, it only takes seconds to peel it off. So I suggest starting with tape.

Once you've shimmed the stocks you'll need a rubber mallet to assemble and disassemble your foils. I like to wrap a soft towel around the foil to protect it from scratches and then hammer it into the vertical. **Please note**, when hammering in your foils don't hit the tips or trailing edge with the rubber mallet. Hitting the tips or trailing edge of your foil with anything is a good way to break something. When hammering in you should smack the foil directly underneath the stock and you should avoid hitting the flap on the mainfoil. When hammering your foils back out, you can hit the foil directly adjacent to the vertical and switch sides occasionally as you go, so the stock stays aligned in the vertical and comes out smoothly. Additionally, you should do this with the tie-rod already threaded into the stock. Otherwise you'll be fishing around in the vertical with the tie-rod to try to get the threads started.

With your foil connection so tight the horizontal must be hammered into the vertical, gravity certainly isn't going to cause them to come apart.

-Nick

 

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Now that’s the idea I’m looking for. 

And I sure don’t thing/I hope nobody thought you meant holding on thousands of dollars of foils with package tape friction...

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So we've been working on this for awhile, but a southern racing circuit for the UFO has finally come together. Right now we have two events confirmed at UKSC in Key Largo--big thanks to the US Moth Class and UKSC for the invite--and a still tentative third event in Charleston, SC. The Charleston event is Foilmania & Fort 2 Battery, which will be the Fort 2 Battery race on Saturday sandwiched by 2 days of short-course racing. The details of the Charleston event are still being finalized, but the NOR should be out soon.

 

UFO Southern Circuit

East Coast Foiling Midwinters: Moths, Waszps and UFOs                                         January 25-27, 2019      Upper Keys Sailing Club     Key Largo, FL

Moth US Nationals/Ladd Lewis Memorial Regatta: Moths, Waszps and UFOs      March 1-3, 2019              Upper Keys Sailing Club     Key Largo, FL

TENTATIVE: Foilmania & Fort 2 Battery                                                                         April 26-28, 2019            James Island Yacht Club   Charleston, SC

 

-Nick

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Technique question 1 -- I am having trouble staying aloft after takeoff in light-ish air.

When I work my way into taking off in soft-to-marginal conditions, I am having a hard time finding the groove. I get to ~7kt, bear away, and as it pops up I sheet in and head up working to ensure windward heel. At that point, I either...

  • sheet in too much, which stalls the sail, slow down, soft landing to windward
  • don't sheet in enough, and roll windward, which I compensate with a mix of sheeting in and bearing away, in small-but-quick steps, no matter how clever or subtle, I extend the flight a bit but inevitably end up stalling

I am sorting out a couple details on my boat, so it's performance is not 100% "clean". However, I had this problem even when it was "clean".

Technique question 2 -- I roll to windward on broad reaches

When there's a bit more wind, I find heading downwind to be... unstable! I get going on a reach/broad reach hiking out, but as I bear away, I find that I need to get my rear back on deck, and that the boat wants to roll to windward. If I steer for balance (sheet in, head up slightly) then I can control it, but it is tricky to get that right, if I head up too much I need my weight back on the straps. And I'm diverting from my VMG course, so meh.

Is there a better position, or a different approach to the balance?

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1. Is it possible to do a foiling gybe (tack) with the UFO?

2. Will the UFO be exhibited at the Boot in Düsseldorf?

 

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2 hours ago, thegood said:

1. Is it possible to do a foiling gybe (tack) with the UFO?

There's a video on YouTube of David Clark doing foiling gybes and explaining the technique.

Foiling tacks are usually much harder. I cannot recall videos.

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On 1/16/2019 at 6:54 AM, martin.langhoff said:

Foiling tacks are usually much harder. I cannot recall videos.

I believe Nick, who works for Fulcrum Speedworks, has successfully foiled through a tack, or come very close to it.  However, I have not seen video evidence.   UFOs have eluded close video scrutiny for decades, why should this generation be different :-)    In any case, Martin is correct, a foiling tack is going to be very difficult to pull off.  Foiling gybes, for that matter, are difficult as well for most mortals.  I have seen a video of Dave completing one, and I watched Nick complete one in person.  However, I have yet to see a graceful, banked, foiling gybe on a UFO, something that the top Moth sailors are now able to do consistently.   Hopefully with more sailors and more practice, the gybes and tacks will get smoother, faster, and higher.  I worked on foiling gybes for much of last summer.  My UFO was able to foil through several times, unfortunately on those gybes it had already thrown me off and I watched it foiling on while I was swimming!  

 

On 1/15/2019 at 7:49 PM, martin.langhoff said:

Technique question 2 -- I roll to windward on broad reaches

When there's a bit more wind, I find heading downwind to be... unstable!

Martin  - I have found the same challenge.  In winds over 14-15 knots, I find making downwind progress on the foils very tricky.   The speeds are good, but managing the heel angle is quite challenging.  This is when the big crashes seem to happen.  I recall that this was also a challenge in the Moth, so I think it is part of the nature of learning to sail a centerline foiling dinghy.  I suspect this is one area where practice, practice, practice will help!  

My normal sailing venue now has 3" of ice covering it.  It is great to think about foiling, and I wish all of you that are headed to the midwinters this weekend the best.  Please share your experiences here.  I am going to try to make the March and/or April events if I can line up a boat!

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Just been out in 12 gusting 19. Epic.

Took a few tries to find the right setting for the sail. Too full, too flat, just right. Same with foil and rudder rake. 

Still, epic crashes mostly. I did find the groove at one point but my rudder has a buster lower rudder gudgeon. I had a temporary fix which blew away under pressure so I was slaloming in the breeze with the sloppiest rudder in town. Wasn't going to work.

Having tried other small foilers I'm impressed that most of the crashes didn't lead to a capsize, and just holding on to the mainsheet and rudder the boat - plus it's beaten up sailor - came through. 

Screenshot_20190120-192108.png

(I was out 15:30 to 6pm, didn't catch the 30kt gusts we had in the morn)

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Hi All,

I've suffered my first breakage that wasn't my fault (thanks to Windrush and north sails Perth for the mast track and sail repair!) 

The wand push rod failed at the thread just after foiling past the waszp games start boat. 64 waszps on one start line looks amazing by the way! 

Does any UFO sailer in Oz / the Oz distributor have a spare they would sell me?  

Photos below. It looks like the other end was close to failure too. 

IMG_20190125_144750.jpg

IMG_20190125_144758.jpg

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4 hours ago, Julianv said:

The wand push rod failed at the thread

I had the same breakage on my wand push rod, and I repaired it with a carbon sleeve (recovered on an old fishing rod)  glued with a 2 components epoxy , and it seems to work very well !

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On 1/25/2019 at 11:18 PM, Gilles29 said:

I had the same breakage on my wand push rod, and I repaired it with a carbon sleeve (recovered on an old fishing rod)  glued with a 2 components epoxy , and it seems to work very well !

Thanks, will give this a shot!

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2 hours ago, Merde2 said:

How was the Key Largo regatta?

I did badly on the score, but had an amazing time. Races were short and sweet, with reaching starts and finishes so cool videos to come. Lots of tips and tricks traded before and after each race. Abundant rum and beer consumed.

Good times!

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On 1/25/2019 at 7:18 AM, Gilles29 said:

I had the same breakage on my wand push rod, and I repaired it with a carbon sleeve (recovered on an old fishing rod)  glued with a 2 components epoxy , and it seems to work very well !

 

You can also repair the carbon pullrod with a piece of carbon tow wrapped around the tip. Just pull a couple tows out of a piece of cloth and soak them in resin. A bunch of hoop fiber there will hold it together and stop it from splitting. 

-Nick

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On 1/30/2019 at 8:03 PM, Merde2 said:

How was the Key Largo regatta?

AMAZING! I'm working on the highlight reel now and I'm amped all over again just from watching it. It's developing into a real dogfight for first and it's got my overwhelmed with excitement for the future of the class. One design classes have never been my thing, but they are now. The racing is just that much better with fast entirely uniform equipment. At times, "tight" doesn't really do it justice. See attached gif.


https://gph.is/2WyV8od

That's two boats, nearly touching, full send.



At the base end of the fleet, what I'm seeing i that we're all finishing races close enough that nobody's slowing anybody down. The stability of the boat pays well in that those who aren't trying to fly too much sail consistent stable races and the event moves smoothly. In a three class regatta, we were without question the least burdensome on the crash boats presenting a three day total of 0 assistance requested or consumed. I think the RC likes us for that.

Also, big racecourse takeaways from this regatta:

1.rig tension. Just nail it. I'm not saying overcamber your sail. That can badly hurt you in anything above 9 knots. However, you can get that camber out of places that will hurt you and down to the base of the rig where it helps entirely with cunningham and outhaul. You want to start every race day "building the mast" by tensioning the bujeezus out of your jumpers before you do anything else. I hopped into Otto's boat after day 2 which had been tweener weather requiring stiffness and camber. His rig was about 10% looser in the shrouds and 15% less cambered. Big impediment to takeoffs, which he'd mainly been overcoming by being an incredible athlete.

2. Definitely heel hard and crab upwind.

3. Definitely heel to weather to build speed downwind and carve towards the mark, but view heel as a consumable, not a prerequisite. Expect to slowly swing to upright and then heeled to leeward and hiking hard before you arc back up to build speed again. It's a smooth transition from the moth-thing to the wild-thing and it's presently the way to get downwind fast. 

I CANNOT WAIT for more of these events.

DRC

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9 hours ago, Dave Clark said:


3. Definitely heel to weather to build speed downwind and carve towards the mark, but view heel as a consumable, not a prerequisite. Expect to slowly swing to upright and then heeled to leeward and hiking hard before you arc back up to build speed again. It's a smooth transition from the moth-thing to the wild-thing and it's presently the way to get downwind fast
DRC

Dave: 

Please elaborate a bit here.  This is the area that several of us are currently working on.   Heal to weather to build speed downwind...OK, I get that.  Carve towards the mark, is that head up to the mark from a deep broad reach, or bear away from a beam reach toward it?   You state that you 'arc back up' which to me suggests heading up, but if you are already healing to leaward, won't heading up simply overpower you?   I'm sightly confused....

Hoping to make it down to event #2 in Key Largo.   Getting stuff at home squared away to get permission from flight control....

Doug

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9 hours ago, Dave Clark said:

 At times, "tight" doesn't really do it justice. See attached gif.

https://gph.is/2WyV8od

That's two boats, nearly touching, full send.

I have to admit, when I first watched the video I didn't get it, it just looked like a UFO foiling.  I had to go back, and then realized what I thought was a focusing error was in fact a second sail wobbling just behind the first.   Tight indeed!  Great shot.

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12 hours ago, Dave Clark said:

.rig tension. Just nail it.

Indeed. 40kg on the shrouds, hoist to top, downhaul to 5 inches from mast base. Outhaul to Max. The performance difference was very clear with any boat that didn't have this setup.

Then one day I rigged my boat wrong, and I could tell it was off.

It was a hell of a good time. Everyone learned a bunch of things. And I even finished ahead of Dave in one race :-)

We need more folks in March. I'll provide dark'n'stormy supplies...

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16 hours ago, Champlain Sailor said:

Dave: 

Please elaborate a bit here.  This is the area that several of us are currently working on.   Heal to weather to build speed downwind...OK, I get that.  Carve towards the mark, is that head up to the mark from a deep broad reach, or bear away from a beam reach toward it?   You state that you 'arc back up' which to me suggests heading up, but if you are already healing to leaward, won't heading up simply overpower you?   I'm sightly confused....

Hoping to make it down to event #2 in Key Largo.   Getting stuff at home squared away to get permission from flight control....

Doug

A bit like this

DRC

Carving downwind fig.1.png

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The regatta looks like a lot of fun! 

Seems like a few people are using a rig sense system to direct my measure shroud tension. What model are people using? Is there any special setup required? 

We had two UFOs on the water in Perth Australia for the first time. It was a good time ! 

Two UFOs fit in one tornado storage bay too. 

IMG_20190203_165038.jpg

IMG_20190203_172154.jpg

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That regatta was too fun. Editing this video taxed my salivary glands.

DRC

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Looks like the Key Largo event was a blast!  Thanks for putting together the video Dave.

 I'm trying to figure out how to get out there from the West Coast to join you guys at one of the next events! 

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10 hours ago, Julianv said:

Seems like a few people are using a rig sense system to direct my measure shroud tension. What model are people using? Is there any special setup required? 

What we have here at Fulcrum is the Spinlock Rig-Sense for 2-5mm wire or fibre (RGS/0205). Works great on the 3mm UFO shrouds. 

image.thumb.png.294184f19c047c0c7783e478a48911ca.png

The one trick to it is that you must have loose shrouds in order to raise the sail as the mast won't bend to the luff curve of the sail otherwise. That means you take shroud tension readings with the sail up and they will differ from side to side due to which way the battens are popped as well as any breeze you have in your rigging area. That's fine. The rig tension guidelines we've given are very approximate compared to what you might be used to when tuning a small keelboat. Just average the readings you get on each shroud and try to get close to the recommended levels. And to reiterate Dave's point always err on the side of too much rig tension. 

The reason you want too much tension is its easier to take rig tension off on the water than put it back on. Additionally, you can flatten out the sail a lot with the cunningham and outhaul to depower without reducing rig tension. When racing you're going hang on to depowering in this manner for as long as possible in order to have power in the lulls or if the breeze starts dropping unexpectedly. Not being able to foil in the lulls due to rig tune is disastrous on the race course. When absolutely necessary you'll depower further by reducing rig tension, allowing the rig to bend more and provide gust response.

This same attitude applies to the battens. I always set my battens at max batten tension for marginal breeze regardless of the forecast. You can decamber them on the water with outhaul and cunningham.

Finally, if you're not following, check back in the thread for discussions on rig tuning for marginal breeze. The setup for both rig and batten tension has been laid out in detail previously.

-Nick

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Brief report from the KL race, from my vantage point. Races were start line on a reach to top mark, downwind to bottom mark, upwind, reach to finish. We were mixed on the course with Moths, which started separately (usually earlier) and ran the top/bottom marks twice.
 
Lots of short races, which was a ton of fun. Worked well with learning fleet which IMO is what we had. In any case, I'll take this format over longer races, anytime.
 
We had essentially 3 groups.
  • Mostly foilers -- Dave and Nick
  • Mostly floaters -- Barry and James
  • Wannabe foilers - Otto and me, with Otto being clearly better than me. 
If you get the right rig setup, and find the right body-weight position, you can sail the UFO pretty effectively as you'd sail a Laser, down to the rocking motion upwind. In light conditions -- and that's what we had -- you'll be close in VMG to a foiler who doesn't make a mistake. Foiling in light conditions only pays off if you're careful on working VMG and don't mess up. It's hard to pull off!
 
In short -- anyone could get ahead of Dave and Nick sailing carefully upwind, and counting on them to capsize once ;-) I sailed a couple races "mostly floating" and did pretty well, finishing 3rd right after Dave and Nick.
 
In the start and end reaches we all foiled to some extent.
 
The difference between having the rig just right, and having it a bit off is huge. At least a couple knots, and ~15 degrees heading upwind. We compared this on the course with James and Barry on a couple rounds, as we involuntarily took turns in having our rig not-quite-right. We'd get to the bottom mark together, harden up to the upwind, and one boat would do 10~15 degrees better.
Overall, my score is awful. Had a couple bad starts -- distracted! -- and one day my rig was off (sail wasn't up to top of mast). In later races I took more foiling risks, which meant I learned more, had a ton of fun... and finished badly. 
 
Everyone progressed heaps. We all converged on the rig tuning. 
 
Here's a video of my best shots, including some non-racing shots with my son on board. 
 
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Cool stuff. Hearing you guys talk about tension, we have loose gauges. Will they work or do I need to spend the $ on a spinlock?

Also anyone storing their boat mast and boom up or everyone taking it apart? 

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1 hour ago, Claire1000 said:

Cool stuff. Hearing you guys talk about tension, we have loose gauges. Will they work or do I need to spend the $ on a spinlock?

Also anyone storing their boat mast and boom up or everyone taking it apart? 

I have both Loos and spinlock. I'll try and get a match of 40Kg and 80Kg to Loos gauge numbers.  

UFO #4 is always assembled with mast, boom, foils. All I do is

  • take cover off
  • hoist sail
  • insert bottom batten
  • set rig tension

 

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im posting my ufo for sail ...its boat#006, sailed 3 times...the only reason Im selling is due to my job taking me overseas...Im asking 6500, but will entertain any offer,  the boat is located in Gulfport Ms and has only been sailed 3 times... stored inside all its life.   Call me

Terry   2283139179

20170613_073547.jpg

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On 2/8/2019 at 11:14 AM, Claire1000 said:

loose gauges. Will they work or do I need to spend the $ on a spinlock?

40Kg -- 5 Loos gauge

80-90Kg -- 16 loos

 

 

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22 hours ago, martin.langhoff said:

40Kg -- 5 Loos gauge

80-90Kg -- 16 loos

 

 

Thanks Martin, what type of Loos Gauge are you referring to? There are A, B and Type II

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1 hour ago, barsuk1 said:

Thanks Martin, what type of Loos Gauge are you referring to? There are A, B and Type II

PT-1 / PT-1M

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On Sunday I woke up at the crack of dawn to sail a bit. It was blowing 15-20kt (yipee!). It had also steep, short chop, which I wasn't prepared for. To be clear, these conditions were far out of my league on the UFO.

In a chop, it's hard to pick up the speed to get foiling without digging the bows into a wave, and it's hard to stay foiling, as your foil wants to skip out of the water in the troughs. 

So here's a brief summary of 4 hours of carnage. At times, it was exhilarating fun. Other times, I did wish I had taken up golf instead...

Part 1 - the flying-briefly bits - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArrA_NBd_d4

Part 2 - the crashing bits - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ctgZVVW_ZA
 
Learned lots of things. I was working the downhaul on my main to find the right amount of power, but I forgot to put some twist in, which would have helped modulate the power between takeoff and flight. Thanks Nick for the hint!
 
In these conditions the return downwind in a narrow channel was tricky. Below is a post from Nick explaining how to do it. I only got half of that right so I capsized a dozen times.

 

 

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On 2/8/2019 at 11:14 AM, Claire1000 said:

Also anyone storing their boat mast and boom up or everyone taking it apart? 

My boat spent all summer (May 1 to late October) with the mast & boom up and both foils in place on the shore in front of our house.   If you have the ability to store the boat this way, it makes getting on the water very, very fast.  When he is not on the road, Dave Clark keeps his boat rigged this way.  Last year he posted a video of himself rigging up in about 5 minutes.   I can't quite match that speed, but I can do it in less than 10.  In my experience, the quicker you can be on the water, the more often you will go sailing.  The only downside to this is that the boat has significant windage and not much weight... so make sure it is tied down.    

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A few things......

1. Its was AMAZING to see that you don't truly have to have full foiling ability to race the regattas. Thats inspirational.

2. I ENVY those who have a place to keep the boat stored rigged and ready to go at any moment. It takes me an hour to get in the water trailering 1 mile to the beach every time on long island. Though, still working with the town to get spots on the beach we can leave boats. (Does anyone trailer with foils rigged ready to go??)

3. Dave, are there any events scheduled up here yet on LI sound?? Let me know. If I haven't sold the boat by then I may enter hip pain and all (arthritis in both hips and left coming close to replacement) my hiking days and yoga moves on a small craft are coming to an end.

4. Terry (tewtops1), shouldn't you have BOUGHT and ad on this site in classifieds like I did to sell your boat and support the site?? 

KEEP ON FOILING!!

Best to all,

Todd Patane

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Dave,

Could you post a simple diagram of a typical course you sail in these regattas so I can practice. THANKS!!

 

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3 hours ago, Todd P said:

2. I ENVY those who have a place to keep the boat stored rigged and ready to go at any moment. It takes me an hour to get in the water trailering 1 mile to the beach every time on long island. Though, still working with the town to get spots on the beach we can leave boats. (Does anyone trailer with foils rigged ready to go??)

Trailering or cartopping with the foils in the boat is not recommended. And if you're trying to cartop be careful of the overhead clearance. The retracted foils make your car very tall. It has been tried for local trips in Bristol and leaves a lot to be desired. It makes a huge racket as the foils bounce around a lot on the road and causes all those parts bouncing around to wear. There is also a risk of the foil bouncing off the clip, dropping down and being damaged. Dave does not recommend it after his one attempt.

3 hours ago, Todd P said:

3. Dave, are there any events scheduled up here yet on LI sound?? Let me know. If I haven't sold the boat by then I may enter hip pain and all (arthritis in both hips and left coming close to replacement) my hiking days and yoga moves on a small craft are coming to an end.

We have a lot of regattas coming up, including one still in the planning stages on LI Sound for the first weekend of October. I'll put together a more detailed post on this soon, but rundown of confirmed UFO events coming up in 2019 is: Ladd Lewis Memorial Regatta Mar 1-3, Foilmania and Fort 2 Battery Apr 26-28, Wickford Regatta June 8-9, Newport Regatta July 6-7. We're working on putting together another event later in the summer and then we cap off the New England events on LIS in early October. 

4 hours ago, Todd P said:

Dave,

Could you post a simple diagram of a typical course you sail in these regattas so I can practice. THANKS!!

 

Can't promise you that we'll be sailing the same course in every regatta. At events where we're sailing with non-foiling boats we'll probably end up doing the standard W/L with a gate that you do at sail inshore regattas. There are a couple different variations of it, but you know the drill. When we have our own UFO events or we're sailing with only foilers like we were in Key Largo, we'll probably be able to get more creative. For Foiling Midwinters we did the course the Moths and Waszps ran last year. It was a reaching start, downwind to a gate, upwind to the reach mark and then a reach back to the finish line.

image.thumb.png.df371babae9437566f8318c3e0da45fc.png

 With only two starts and small number of boats it worked well despite the fact you do round one mark of the course in two different directions. With more starts and boats it would become more difficult to avoid the head-to-head encounters at the reach mark. 

We've also tried out a box course or some variation of it in clinics and may test it out in a regatta soon. In any case, you definitely want to practice your downwind and upwind VMG. It doesn't hurt to spend some time practicing reaching, but we all tend to do that automatically because its so much fun. 

-Nick

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On 2/14/2019 at 7:05 AM, sail(plane) said:

I'd stay there doing penalty turns

I cut it too tight and foil got tangled with the mark. DSQ!

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Over the weekend, @burritoughs ran demos here in Miami. He was kind enough to coach me some. 

I am at a point where I take off without too much trouble, but I find it hard to get into the groove and stay there. The big lesson for me was that there's many situations where you need to ease:

  • Right after takeoff, the first acceleration needs first an ease, and second, a trim -- apparently the effect of the acceleration is more heeling moment and AW shifting forward, but they aren't simultaneous; the heeling moment hits you first. Once I got that "takeoff, ease, trim as it rolls to weather to get into the groove" life was better. Timing and amount of ease/trim between those steps is something to figure out trying, it changes with conditions and rig setup. 
  • If you're going to head upwind, "takeoff, ease, trim into the groove, steer upwind, trim". I was trimming simultaneously with heading upwind and that didn't work
  • More generally, when the boat speeds up -- first ease to prevent heeling, then trim.
  • When the boat slows down (ie: weather hull touches water), AW will move aft, so first ease as you'll be over-trimmed. Then trim. 
  • Whatever the question, first ease, then trim ;-)

"You always have to ease more than you think" Nick dixit. I'll say it applies to more times and more sheet length

 

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Hey guys, I finally got my wife out to watch me sail and take some video.  I think you can pretty clearly see the bear off and ease during takeoff that Martin mentions.  Enjoy...

 

 

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On 2/4/2019 at 10:15 AM, Dave Clark said:



That regatta was too fun. Editing this video taxed my salivary glands.

DRC

This is fabulous! Thanks!

 

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I have a question on baton settings.  When I have the battens cranked and creating a nice, round sail, I see that the bottom of the sail (especially near the luff) actually contacts the boom.  This contact deforms the sail around the location of contact with the boom and probably isn't good for sail performance.  Am I over tightening the batons or should I not worry too much about the sail contacting the boom?  More outhaul alievates the situation but not completely.

Thoughts?

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With the light wind settings my sail touches the boom as well. I don't think it's an issue. I've seen Dave's boat set up similarly I think.

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We call the marginal foiling breeze setup, the “ugly truck”, for a reason. The sail looks pretty ugly when you’ve maximized its depth and power. If you’ve made the sail as full as you possibly can with shroud tension, you’ll get a triangle shaped crease that points aft from the mast. You’ll also have the sail contacting the boom, putting on outhaul to remove this flattens it out too much. Basically, you’re making the sail fuller than it was ever designed to be, but that’s what you need to do to fly in the light stuff.

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Thanks @martin.langhoff and @burritoughs.  I guess flying ugly is the name of the game in light air.  I am still getting the hang of optimizing rig tuning.

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Here’s what my sail looked like before I headed out in marginal conditions this morning. I ended up adding more rig tension on the water in order to get foiling, so this still isn’t full ‘ugly truck’. 

995871AF-849A-4FA3-AB61-82964E90E097.thumb.jpeg.86f742cf431a0b44c94943143a2900bc.jpeg

You’ll note the triangular wrinkle around the second batten from the bottom I described in my prior post.  

Additionally, here’s another pic showing the leach. You can see some of the lower battens s-curving. Not ideal, but it’s what you need to do to fly in the light stuff. The s-curves blow out of the battens and the leach develops a healthy amount of twist once you’re actually out there sailing. 

D32777AC-0FE1-4529-92B6-A172DF0BFAFA.thumb.jpeg.fe5e0b1cd47524bdacbd91708e8e12cf.jpeg

 

-Nick

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Thanks @burritoughs for that pic. I had made my peace with the ugly, including the creases, but the s-shaped battens had me worried. In particular the lower batten. Good to now it's not me.

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Wow, someone has spent so much time on their UFO they've literally worn the pads out.  I'm jealous.  I'll have to come out from the West Coast to catch you all at one of the upcoming events!

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UFO owners of the world we have regattas. Check out the Events page on the updated class website, www.ufoclass.com. I'll keep adding events here as they are confirmed. If you're organizing a UFO event and want it posted on the page, let me know. 

More importantly next major event on the schedule is Foilmania and Fort 2 Battery, April 26-28. It will include buoy racing on Friday and Sunday with the famous Fort 2 Battery race on Saturday. Everyone should come down (or up as the case may be) for the event in Charleston, SC. Let's bring the invasion to Charleston this spring.image.thumb.png.529ff631b3dae825a5c702e9011fe841.png 

-Nick

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@Julianv - looks fantastic! Wind strength? Any notes on rig setup?

We just had our second winter event in Key Largo (together with moth nationals). It was a bit frustrating at times, as the winds were marginal, but Sunday we had a good time. 

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Thanks @martin.langhoff. The wind started at around 10 and got to ~18. I started at the second least main foil lift and then moved to the lowest lift. Rudder pin was around half way down the slot. Temp was nearly 40C so was very happy to be in the water! 

I can see from the video that the leach was loose when I did mean for it to be... Still way more to learn !!

It's great to see the regattas ! There are now 2 UFOs at our club, one more and we'll get our own race start! 

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Random shots from the last race, and some practice in puffs during the Ladd Lewis Regatta in KL last weekend. I wasn't very disciplined about running the camera, so I got what I got. Still, some cool shots I think...

 

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@Julianv, thanks for sharing the video.  Looks like great fun out there, you're making us Northern Hemisphere folks pine for summer!

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4 minutes ago, martin.langhoff said:

Random shots from the last race, and some practice in puffs during the Ladd Lewis Regatta in KL last weekend. I wasn't very disciplined about running the camera, so I got what I got. Still, some cool shots I think...

 

Hey Martin, on your second run (around 1:56 in the video) it looks like you fell off the foils to windward (sail on top of you).  I have that issue often too and I find that I instinctively do exactly what you did -- sheet in and try to get the sail to pull me back up.  I think it was you or Nick that recommended actually easing as the windward hull hits the water.  Reason being that as the boat slows down, the apparent wind shifts aft.  Thus sheeting in actually stalls the sail.  I will be out on the water this Friday and seeing if this easing as the windward hull hits the water works well.  

Thanks for the great footage and I'm hoping to come out to Charleston in April to foil with you guys!

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3 hours ago, martin.langhoff said:

Random shots from the last race, and some practice in puffs during the Ladd Lewis Regatta in KL last weekend. I wasn't very disciplined about running the camera, so I got what I got. Still, some cool shots I think...

 

Nice shots! And a Miami winter looks like a dream! 

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