Recommended Posts

All good things take time. noone really asks how long it took to make the pyramids, or the Acropolis, they are simply amazed at the end results. Keep at it, you two!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, to be honest I'm really afraid of posting because the current boat condition is kind of shocking and I want to avoid getting comments of quitting her... It's more of a personal bet with great sentimental value.

 

Anyways, I would better start a new topic where you're all welcomed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have found everyone very positive, saving what are going to be rare boats in future decades is always worthwhile, there is nothing that cannot be fixed or remade on a flying dutchman. I am not aiming to have a down to weight competitive boat so that has given me a lot of freedom in my choices and methods.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have found everyone very positive, saving what are going to be rare boats in future decades is always worthwhile, there is nothing that cannot be fixed or remade on a flying dutchman. I am not aiming to have a down to weight competitive boat so that has given me a lot of freedom in my choices and methods.

 

I cannot agree more. It just takes patience and positive drive.

 

You can now find my post here

 

Thank you in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Randy,

 

Have you thought about closing down the transom some - reducing the width and height (from the top down) of the transom holes to provide more stiffness for the rudder?

 

Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Randy,

 

Have you thought about closing down the transom some - reducing the width and height (from the top down) of the transom holes to provide more stiffness for the rudder?

 

Tom

Hi Tom, you are spot on, that is exactly what I am doing and the mader type rear deck will give further support.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

more bits made and loosely fitted up, should be glassed in tomorrow hopefully but weather a bit cold so resin is slow at the moment. There are more panels to be made and added so that water does not collect in corners when boat heeled.

post-125537-0-37228400-1493701652_thumb.jpg

post-125537-0-88989800-1493701658_thumb.jpg

post-125537-0-67531100-1493701666_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

going to be away working for about a month again so a bit of a hiatus

few more pics of the last bits I got done yesterday

just have to make provision for spinnaker sheets and put in diagonal panels and hatches then can deck over.

DSC00441.jpg

DSC00440.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm getting ready to get into a restoration of an all glass black hulled FD from New Jersey. Clients parents raced it in late 60's through the 80's. It lay upside down on their property until the home was sold upon their passing. It's at my shop ready for the new life the son wants for it with his family. Any useful thread info would be appreciated. 

Enjoying the rebuild Randy! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good mate!  I've always wanted to do a FD rebuild, and plan on doing so at some point (probably when the little ones are older).  I follow a lot of the rebuild threads.  Digging what you are doing with the stern for buoyancy purposes, looks like it will also beef up the rudder gudgeons area as well.  Was that also a factor in designing the stern buoyancy area?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/9/2017 at 8:01 AM, Randy Hormaster said:

bit more done today and mocked up rear deck curve

DSC00569.jpg

I got a question for you. Is it solid or ply the one you're using for the curve?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thank you guys but the link from the yachtingnz site to facebook page appears to be dead

I did briefly meet probably the top FD sailor in NZ Andrew McKee just after I bought the boat and he gave me a few good tips which have been helpful in the rebuild.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, Randy Hormaster said:

thanks wcb but that link is dead, I think the class is dying in NZ despite the worlds in 19, it will probably be the last gasp.

The link works just fine for me.  It may not be getting updated much but it's active.  You may need to create a Facebook account so that you can see it, that may be your issue.  

Edit: It's got to be that you need to sign up.  Its active.  Somebody posted a boat for sale twelve hours ago and the previous post was October 29th.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/5/2017 at 1:21 PM, Randy Hormaster said:

thanks wcb but that link is dead, I think the class is dying in NZ despite the worlds in 19, it will probably be the last gasp.

The class isn’t dead yet, there are boats changing hands and a new one in build. The attrition is not as bad as it seems 

On 11/5/2017 at 1:21 PM, Randy Hormaster said:

thanks wcb but that link is dead, I think the class is dying in NZ despite the worlds in 19, it will probably be the last gasp.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

not yet, getting closer, has been slow few months with bad weather and then had to work away from home a lot, I am doing all the boring fiddly glassing bits at the moment, takes a lot of time but not much to show for the effort picture wise. Should have the back tanks all done in next few days and will put some pics up then.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Am on mine, but will be a bit also, have manged to get all halyards redone, with new upper halyard lock like my AC has, so cool

fdhl.jpg

fdhl2.jpg

fdhl3.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't quite get it. What halyard is it and what section of the mast are you showing in the pictures above?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is the proctor gold alu spar, I made and installed the wire to line splice and halyard lock, so no more compression. When you raise main it cleats in and locks, to lower, pull down a bit untill swaged ball lifts bail and allows halyard to return to deck. When it works is amazing, have had trouble with bolt ropes and stuff on my AC, so hopefully this is better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I still don'T get it. Is this at the bottom of the mast? Can't be because otherwise you'd have compression again.

So why does the halyard go back into the mast? Is it just under the mast top`?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

YES, AND YES, WILL TAKE MORE AND SHARE. It allows the halyard to only be 6" long in actual use.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And it goes back in so halyard can be internal.

On my AC, mast is all hollow, on FD mast is alu and two walled.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Seeing this, I will tell you to simply make a flap across the stern.  Hundreds of kilograms of water will travel out the hole in the back... No need for it to be so big. 

Spend WAY, WAY WAY too much time aligning the rudder, gudgeons and pintles.  I read that in an old Bulletin, which are available online if you know where to look. 

Are you planning on a windsurfer rig?  That will not work. :)

 

  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also the flap will keep water from coming IN, which happens on big water in a slow tack, like ocean racing when waiting for the next race.  Huge pain...in the rear. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hope this helps... What specifically are you looking for ?

1_CB.jpg

2_CB.jpg

3_CB.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

NEED RIGGING HELP, WHAT LINES ETC USED TO PULL BOARD UP AND DOWN, HAVE THE TRACK AND FOIL ALL RIGGED.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A schematic might help as well... The amount of blocks on the CB is your choice... However more than two is a little redundant.

post-11767-1213136844.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure if my boat's setup will help; it's a mid-60s fg version.

On the starboard side, the centerboard control line is knotted through a hole in the lip of the cb trunk, then goes through a block on the board and is run aft to a cam cleat; that's "CB Down." Then there's some slack and it runs back up the port side into a series of blocks at the base of the mast that constitutes "CB Up." There's a second cam cleat aft on the port side to hold the board up. It's all one line; the other end terminates on a becket on the block at the top of the board.

If this is helpful and if you'd like more detailed photos of any part of it, let me know. Forgive the scuzziness; the boat was a Craigslist find and I haven't finished cleaning it up yet.

Starboard:

2018-02-28_17.14.54.jpg

Port:

2018-02-28_17.14.33.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DAT'S ZACTLY WHAT I NEEDED, THX SO MUCH! NOW SHOW ME PIX OF ROLLER FURLER AND RIGGING FOR IT, THX!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A photo for the ages. Nothing like a clean, simple layout!:D Hoping to begin work on an FD soon.

cb3.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, ortegakid said:

DAT'S ZACTLY WHAT I NEEDED, THX SO MUCH! NOW SHOW ME PIX OF ROLLER FURLER AND RIGGING FOR IT, THX!

Furler:

2018-03-01_17.24.40.jpg

Tack (yeah it's rough):

2018-03-01_17.25.17.jpg

Halyard swivel (missing the pin):

2018-03-01_17.25.43.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

THX ALSO! Mine has a seasure ratcheting furler that i'm gunna try and use, may have to convert to normal like yers.thx again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now