• Announcements

    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.
Tempest

Went to look at a Catalina 22....

565 posts in this topic

1 minute ago, 12 metre said:

But like I said, with a longboard you not only get a smooth and fair surface, I think you will find it a lot quicker than an RO sander - at least an electric one.  I've never used an air one so I can't say about those. 

I imagine that'll work fine if the inconsistencies are within' a 32nd to a 16th of an inch but anything over that and you're filling holes or sanding through the gel coat.  This is, of course, just an assumption based on my limited knowledge.  Sounds like I'm making work for myself one way or another.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Tempest said:

I imagine that'll work fine if the inconsistencies are within' a 32nd to a 16th of an inch but anything over that and you're filling holes or sanding through the gel coat.  This is, of course, just an assumption based on my limited knowledge.  Sounds like I'm making work for myself one way or another.

You're right.  I was wondering how this thread drifted off into the realm of longboarding - which seemed like a stretch given the type of boat and the reason you bought it.  But since it had been brought up...

I wouldn't use one on bare fiberglass or gel coat - but they work great on fairing compounds.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Buy all the wire and fittings from the local guy. Don't beat a up a niche market small local operator over $100. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Tempest said:

I imagine that'll work fine if the inconsistencies are within' a 32nd to a 16th of an inch but anything over that and you're filling holes or sanding through the gel coat.  This is, of course, just an assumption based on my limited knowledge.  Sounds like I'm making work for myself one way or another.

This is one reason why I said, don't worry about smoothing the bottom... for now. It will make a much smaller difference in how well the boat sails than many other improvements you can make, with far less time invested. Get the rigging all sorted out, good sails, get familiar with the boat's characteristics.

The difference between a rough paint job and perfectly smooth & faired bottom is less than the difference you'd make with better sails , which is less than the difference you'd make with proper tuning (which requires proper standing rigging), which is less than the difference you'd make getting the running rigging sorted out.

Get the boat sailing first, then grab the low-hanging fruit. It's certainly a much better boat than the Catalina 22 you first set your sights on, and worth putting in a good bit of upgrading and sweat equity. I'm just suggesting that you spend more time sailing, this first season, and less time working/spending on things that won't make that big a difference.

FB- Doug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Dex Sawash said:

Buy all the wire and fittings from the local guy. Don't beat a up a niche market small local operator over $100. 

Be glad there is a guy nearby.   The last sailboat shop in the entire state of Indiana (as far as I know) just failed.    There is one by Cincinnati and a couple on Ohio's north coast.   A powerboat guy told me it wasn't safe to hoist a sailboat to do bottom work, the hull would fold up.    Obviously he managed to break a sailboat in half with a sling, and limits himself to powerboats now.    The result of losing the shops is either you do it yourself or spend your vacation road trip fixing instead of sailing.    Shop local if they offer services you may ever use.   Shop local if you may ever want parts without waiting 5 days for delivery.   Shop local if pictures online aren't enough for you to figure out what you needed.    How many of us have a few spare parts bought because the picture looked like it could work and return postage was as expensive as the part?

Same thing for bike parts.   The shop in my town failed from online sales, so I now have to drive an hour four times to get a bike tuned, or get better at indexing gears myself.   There was even a long distance bike trail just a mile from the shop!   

 

In addition to SteamFlyers logic, you've dinghy launched so you know how hard it is to get even a light boat on a trailer in a crosswind all by yourself without scratching something.    If you launch several times a season and pull out tired when it's windy your work will need constant tending.    Concentrate on the topside, after you get it sailing and determine if any hardware should be moved for better single handing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tempest, your rigger's prices seem super competitive (good) to me, and it makes me happy to see you addressing this now. The advantage to this route is that it gets done and gets you on the water sooner.  The advantage to synthetic route is elitism and a stiffer boat for roughly the same cost. :)  If you decide to convert in a couple years all those SS turnbuckles are still a good, reusable. investment.  

After you get the rigging and the spreaders done, I'd splash it. New sails will improve the boat 100%, but without a baseline to compare them with it won't be obvious on your first boat, never mind a new-to-you boat.  run whatcha got, chill some cold ones and get 'er splashed!  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Skol said:

Tempest, your rigger's prices seem super competitive (good) to me, and it makes me happy to see you addressing this now. The advantage to this route is that it gets done and gets you on the water sooner.  The advantage to synthetic route is elitism and a stiffer boat for roughly the same cost. :)  If you decide to convert in a couple years all those SS turnbuckles are still a good, reusable. investment.  

After you get the rigging and the spreaders done, I'd splash it. New sails will improve the boat 100%, but without a baseline to compare them with it won't be obvious on your first boat, never mind a new-to-you boat.  run whatcha got, chill some cold ones and get 'er splashed!  

Skol.   How does synthetic compare for mast stepping alone?   Which is easier to raise without snagging or kinking?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, Lark said:

Skol.   How does synthetic compare for mast stepping alone?   Which is easier to raise without snagging or kinking?


Lark, my boat experience is all in-water, so I don't have direct experience for you.   What I know is that the stuff that's marketed as "dux" is a lot more stiff than regular amsteel. it's not as stiff as wire but it shouldn't snag because of kinking while laying untensioned.  A bonus for regular Amsteel I think would be keeping it neatly coiled on deck while the stick is down.  I'm a little OCD so maybe that's just me. 

the WLL for amsteel, dux, and dyneema branded ropes are all so high that I wouldn't give a second thought to UV exposure and the 5 yrs of hard use.  My first handling of amsteel was with jeeps and land rovers. winching 5k of truck through hub-deep mud filled with roots and rocks is a lot scarier to me than popping a shroud.  broken winch cables have been known to slice through people.  when synthetic pops it just falls to the ground. the couple times I've seen it fail there was damage to rig or tree from stored energy in kinetic straps, not the rope itself.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Skol said:


Lark, my boat experience is all in-water, so I don't have direct experience for you.   What I know is that the stuff that's marketed as "dux" is a lot more stiff than regular amsteel. it's not as stiff as wire but it shouldn't snag because of kinking while laying untensioned.  A bonus for regular Amsteel I think would be keeping it neatly coiled on deck while the stick is down.  I'm a little OCD so maybe that's just me. 

the WLL for amsteel, dux, and dyneema branded ropes are all so high that I wouldn't give a second thought to UV exposure and the 5 yrs of hard use.  My first handling of amsteel was with jeeps and land rovers. winching 5k of truck through hub-deep mud filled with roots and rocks is a lot scarier to me than popping a shroud.  broken winch cables have been known to slice through people.  when synthetic pops it just falls to the ground. the couple times I've seen it fail there was damage to rig or tree from stored energy in kinetic straps, not the rope itself.  

Thanks.    Understand on the recoil thing.    Nothing to hide behind as you describe.   The problem of living in powerboat country, is I seldom get to see the new things.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/26/2017 at 1:09 AM, 12 metre said:

You're right.  I was wondering how this thread drifted off into the realm of longboarding - which seemed like a stretch given the type of boat and the reason you bought it.  But since it had been brought up...

I wouldn't use one on bare fiberglass or gel coat - but they work great on fairing compounds.

Yeah, that's what I figured.  I'll avoid the longboard for now.

On 5/26/2017 at 4:12 AM, Dex Sawash said:

Buy all the wire and fittings from the local guy. Don't beat a up a niche market small local operator over $100. 

I agree.  I actually got a quote from Binnacle and he's cheaper by quite a bit so I'm definitely shopping local on this one.  It was just the jump in price on the turnbuckles that got me but after more looking I see that he's right on the money.

On 5/26/2017 at 5:46 AM, Steam Flyer said:

This is one reason why I said, don't worry about smoothing the bottom... for now. It will make a much smaller difference in how well the boat sails than many other improvements you can make, with far less time invested. Get the rigging all sorted out, good sails, get familiar with the boat's characteristics.

The difference between a rough paint job and perfectly smooth & faired bottom is less than the difference you'd make with better sails , which is less than the difference you'd make with proper tuning (which requires proper standing rigging), which is less than the difference you'd make getting the running rigging sorted out.

Get the boat sailing first, then grab the low-hanging fruit. It's certainly a much better boat than the Catalina 22 you first set your sights on, and worth putting in a good bit of upgrading and sweat equity. I'm just suggesting that you spend more time sailing, this first season, and less time working/spending on things that won't make that big a difference.

FB- Doug

Yeah, I'm going to avoid paint for this season but I'll be hitting it in the fall or spring.  The reason I wanted to paint wasn't to smooth out the bottom, it was to seal it and prevent blistering.  Sounds like that won't be a problem for now but I will be coating it in the future.

In any case, it's good advice and I'll take it ;)

On 5/26/2017 at 6:53 AM, Lark said:

Be glad there is a guy nearby.   The last sailboat shop in the entire state of Indiana (as far as I know) just failed.    There is one by Cincinnati and a couple on Ohio's north coast.   A powerboat guy told me it wasn't safe to hoist a sailboat to do bottom work, the hull would fold up.    Obviously he managed to break a sailboat in half with a sling, and limits himself to powerboats now.    The result of losing the shops is either you do it yourself or spend your vacation road trip fixing instead of sailing.    Shop local if they offer services you may ever use.   Shop local if you may ever want parts without waiting 5 days for delivery.   Shop local if pictures online aren't enough for you to figure out what you needed.    How many of us have a few spare parts bought because the picture looked like it could work and return postage was as expensive as the part?

Same thing for bike parts.   The shop in my town failed from online sales, so I now have to drive an hour four times to get a bike tuned, or get better at indexing gears myself.   There was even a long distance bike trail just a mile from the shop!   

 

In addition to SteamFlyers logic, you've dinghy launched so you know how hard it is to get even a light boat on a trailer in a crosswind all by yourself without scratching something.    If you launch several times a season and pull out tired when it's windy your work will need constant tending.    Concentrate on the topside, after you get it sailing and determine if any hardware should be moved for better single handing.

Yeah, that's what I'm going to do.  The trailer is nice in that it has the guide for the keel which should be very helpful for loading.  I'll get the bunks replaced with some nice fresh carpet which should help with how she sits on the trailer and help with sliding on and off.

On 5/26/2017 at 6:58 AM, Skol said:

Tempest, your rigger's prices seem super competitive (good) to me, and it makes me happy to see you addressing this now. The advantage to this route is that it gets done and gets you on the water sooner.  The advantage to synthetic route is elitism and a stiffer boat for roughly the same cost. :)  If you decide to convert in a couple years all those SS turnbuckles are still a good, reusable. investment.  

After you get the rigging and the spreaders done, I'd splash it. New sails will improve the boat 100%, but without a baseline to compare them with it won't be obvious on your first boat, never mind a new-to-you boat.  run whatcha got, chill some cold ones and get 'er splashed!  

Yep, just going to order that spreader kit tomorrow from Dwyer and we're going to do the rigging as soon as I get them on.  I'm going to stick with steel cables for now since it'll basically be a one time investment on this boat.  Guessing someone else will be sailing her in 10-15 years.  I'm not super concerned about the extra weight aloft and it's something I just won't have to worry about (unlike chaffing with synthetic).

I'm fixing the upper rudder gudgeon right now and I will be checking all of the deck hardware for fastener tightness and strength before raising the mast for the first time.  Should have time to get all of that done before the spreaders get here.  Might even have time to fix some of those deck cracks too if I get some white marine tex locally and I'll try to get a cut an polish done too.  I want her to look good!

P_20170529_200609.jpg

P_20170529_200558.jpg

P_20170529_200620.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/22/2017 at 1:14 PM, Tempest said:

 

P_20170522_120537.jpg

Get a gallon of Git-Rot mixed up and pump it into them holes 'till she don't take no more!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:wacko: It never ends.  Apparently I'm missing the gooseneck slide as well and the gooseneck is all bent up.  Looks like this  Rig-Rite K-1685A will do the trick but I'm guessing they'll want an arm and a leg for it.  Any better places than Rig-Rite to source these parts?

P_20170530_004203.jpg

D_Gooseneck_Std.html_txt_K-1685a.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Given the age of the boat, just be thankful that someone still makes them :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Crash said:

Given the age of the boat, just be thankful that someone still makes them :rolleyes:

That remains to be seen.  They said they were low on stock and couldn't give me a price so we'll see if I hear back from them.  May just have to get something fabricated here in town.  :/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have to do that, why not convert to a fixed goose neck (like most boats today) with a cunningham cringle installed in the main.  Its a much faster and simpler way to achieve luff tension on the main....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, what Crash said. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's an interesting idea.  I actually heard back from Rig-Rite and was shocked to find that they only want $50 for the slider so I figured I'd just go ahead and buy it.  I'm guessing a fixed neck and cringle setup would end up being a lot more expensive.  Think I'm going to stick with the slider for now since it seems like the quickest way to get me out on the water.

I ordered my spreaders today and I spoke with someone at Garhauer about a block and tackle setup.  He said something with a SWL of 1000lbs would be sufficient.  I ran some calculations through the Harken mainsheet calculator and it was giving me higher numbers but I was running the calculations with a wind speed of 40knts.  Obviously 40-50knts are worst case scenario and on the edge of survival conditions.  Also, at some point the boat is going to heel and depower the main so I had no idea what wind speed to use.

In any case, the Garhauer stuff looks very nice and the prices are very reasonable so I'll be placing an order with them this week (unless the PO gets back to me and says she found the tackle in the garage or something).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 ry=400

First of all, congratulations on the boat and thanks for the thread updates.  I had a C22 and your interior pics make it clear that there's just more of a finished, full-size sailboat with the Ericson.  

You might as well go with upgraded gudgeons and pintles, I think Catalina Direct has been brought up but the pic above is their gudgeons for a Capri 25.  I did the 22 ones and they were pretty and of course functional.  They will have goosenecks too but your boom profile would likely be different.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Owen said:

 ry=400

First of all, congratulations on the boat and thanks for the thread updates.  I had a C22 and your interior pics make it clear that there's just more of a finished, full-size sailboat with the Ericson.  

You might as well go with upgraded gudgeons and pintles, I think Catalina Direct has been brought up but the pic above is their gudgeons for a Capri 25.  I did the 22 ones and they were pretty and of course functional.  They will have goosenecks too but your boom profile would likely be different.  

Thanks! :D and no problem!  I appreciate everyone here being so tolerant of my noob questions.  Yeah, I'm VERY happy with my decision and can't wait to get her out on the water.

I probably should but I don't want to bite off more than I can chew at this point.  I've taken the hammer to the gudgeon and got it much straighter than it was. so I think it'll be OK to go back on.  Besides, if I upgrade the lower gudgeon it means more holes to fill and re-drill.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
41 minutes ago, Tempest said:

Thanks! :D and no problem!  I appreciate everyone here being so tolerant of my noob questions.  Yeah, I'm VERY happy with my decision and can't wait to get her out on the water.

I probably should but I don't want to bite off more than I can chew at this point.  I've taken the hammer to the gudgeon and got it much straighter than it was. so I think it'll be OK to go back on.  Besides, if I upgrade the lower gudgeon it means more holes to fill and re-drill.

What was there for a backing plate for your gudgeon when you removed it ?

Consider a mast head LED light for anchoring. Not too pricey and some have sensors for dusk.

Come down here in the fall and you can race her, I'll get some crew for you and see how she does in our club race.

I have a gennaker that might fit, you can try out, too.

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Norse Horse said:

What was there for a backing plate for your gudgeon when you removed it ?

Consider a mast head LED light for anchoring. Not too pricey and some have sensors for dusk.

Come down here in the fall and you can race her, I'll get some crew for you and see how she does in our club race.

I have a gennaker that might fit, you can try out, too.

Cheers

Nothing :blink:  I'm assuming you mean between the gudgeon and the transom but there was nothing on the opposite side of the transom either.  I have some 3/32" stainless in the garage so I was going to make a backing plate for the inside of the cockpit but was just going to leave the gudgeon flush with the transom on the outside after fixing the glass with some Marine-Tex (and calking with sealant).

Yessir!  There's a mast light on the front of the mast about half way up.  You mean I should put a light right at the top?  I'm definitely going to replace all of the lights with LEDs.  probably just order a bunch off eBay but I haven't pulled any covers off yet to see what kind of bulbs are in there.

Thanks for the invite!  I'll see what kind of shape I have everything in by fall but that wouldn't be a bad idea.

Awesome!!  I believe that would save me from buying a chute which would be tre-cool!  Thanks Norse!  I have a bunch of sails that I need to get onto the boat just to figure out what I have.  I'll be posting pics once I get to that point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, Tempest said:

Nothing :blink:  I'm assuming you mean between the gudgeon and the transom but there was nothing on the opposite side of the transom either.  I have some 3/32" stainless in the garage so I was going to make a backing plate for the inside of the cockpit but was just going to leave the gudgeon flush with the transom on the outside after fixing the glass with some Marine-Tex (and calking with sealant).

Yessir!  There's a mast light on the front of the mast about half way up.  You mean I should put a light right at the top?  I'm definitely going to replace all of the lights with LEDs.  probably just order a bunch off eBay but I haven't pulled any covers off yet to see what kind of bulbs are in there.

Thanks for the invite!  I'll see what kind of shape I have everything in by fall but that wouldn't be a bad idea.

Awesome!!  I believe that would save me from buying a chute which would be tre-cool!  Thanks Norse!  I have a bunch of sails that I need to get onto the boat just to figure out what I have.  I'll be posting pics once I get to that point.

The light on the front of the mast will be a steaming light. I have a masthead light that I use about once a year, the rest of the time I hang a Davis Mega-light with LED off the topping lift, over the back end of the boom. I feel much safer from boating drunks with a light at a height that they may see. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Ishmael said:

The light on the front of the mast will be a steaming light. I have a masthead light that I use about once a year, the rest of the time I hang a Davis Mega-light with LED off the topping lift, over the back end of the boom. I feel much safer from boating drunks with a light at a height that they may see. 

I was looking into the regulations last night and I agree about the lights being at eye level.  Looks like you're supposed to have a 360° white light at the top of the mast for anchor but who's going to see that?  I'd almost rather just leave all of the running lights on while at anchor.  Doesn't look like I have a white stern light though.  Going to have to do something about that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Light at top of mast to satisfy the law, cheap solar powered garden lights fore and aft to cast light on the deck and topsides.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Tempest said:

I was looking into the regulations last night and I agree about the lights being at eye level.  Looks like you're supposed to have a 360° white light at the top of the mast for anchor but who's going to see that?  I'd almost rather just leave all of the running lights on while at anchor.  Doesn't look like I have a white stern light though.  Going to have to do something about that.

So just to talk some numbers here...rule of thumb as a RIO in F-14 Tomcats was 1 degree of look angle equals 1000 ft of altitude at 10 miles.  So at 1 mile, 1 degree of lookup is 100 ft.  At half a mile 1 degree of lookup is 50 feet.  An Ericson 23's masthead is about 30 feet off the water.  So at 1/4 mile, its only 1 degree up from the horizontal.  At an 1/8 of a mile its 2 degrees up.  At a 1/16th of a mile its 4 degrees up.  1/16 of a nautical mile is 900 feet.  I think your masthead light will be seen by any boater who is sober and competent.  You can help not sober and incompetent, no matter what you do....short of shining a high powered spot light directly into their eyes!  

Monocular vision is about 30 degrees in all directions (so 30 degrees up) and peripheral vision is about 60 degrees up.  So a masthead light, or a light at eye level are equally "seeable" by a human...

Yes, if you get close enough...the masthead light will drop out of "view"....but that range is around 113 ft for monocular vison, and 50 feet for peripheral vison...for an Ericson 23.... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The gently swaying mast head light is also more visible against the shore lights when another boat comes in to anchor.

Forgot to ask you if you renamed her or not.

 

I learned today that Gillette shave gel [for sensitive skin] works better than my orange hand cleaner on polyester resin, when you run out of acetone. It even cleans epoxy goo, but not near as good, it is missing an ingredient. Seriously!:D

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, Norse Horse said:

The gently swaying mast head light is also more visible against the shore lights when another boat comes in to anchor.

Forgot to ask you if you renamed her or not.

 

I learned today that Gillette shave gel [for sensitive skin] works better than my orange hand cleaner on polyester resin, when you run out of acetone. It even cleans epoxy goo, but not near as good, it is missing an ingredient. Seriously!:D

 

Do you have to shave your hands often? How did you discover this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Norse Horse said:

The gently swaying mast head light is also more visible against the shore lights when another boat comes in to anchor.

Forgot to ask you if you renamed her or not.

 

I learned today that Gillette shave gel [for sensitive skin] works better than my orange hand cleaner on polyester resin, when you run out of acetone. It even cleans epoxy goo, but not near as good, it is missing an ingredient. Seriously!:D

 

For epoxy goo, simple white vinegar beats acetone - hands down.  Seriously!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/26/2017 at 8:53 PM, Lark said:

 ...The last sailboat shop in the entire state of Indiana (as far as I know) just failed.
...

This doesn't help the OP, but FYI Lark, Sailrite is in Columbia City, Indiana.  While they don't sell sailboats themselves, they certainly sell just about everything you'd need to repair rigging and sails on one! :)

Don't think they get many in-person customer visits, but I've been to both their old and new warehouses, and the new one is definitely one of the nicest, most well-organized warehouses I've ever been inside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, nlmasopust said:

This doesn't help the OP, but FYI Lark, Sailrite is in Columbia City, Indiana.  While they don't sell sailboats themselves, they certainly sell just about everything you'd need to repair rigging and sails on one! :)

Don't think they get many in-person customer visits, but I've been to both their old and new warehouses, and the new one is definitely one of the nicest, most well-organized warehouses I've ever been inside.

Cool.   I wish I'd known they existed when I was in the area.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Norse Horse said:

The gently swaying mast head light is also more visible against the shore lights when another boat comes in to anchor.

Forgot to ask you if you renamed her or not.

 

I learned today that Gillette shave gel [for sensitive skin] works better than my orange hand cleaner on polyester resin, when you run out of acetone. It even cleans epoxy goo, but not near as good, it is missing an ingredient. Seriously!:D

 

Dear Lord please don't use acetone or any solvent to clean your skin!

Save your liver for drinking!

Vinegar cleans up epoxy quite nicely but be careful to not contaminate your mix with it... break up the curing, will leave you epoxy work truly fucked. But your hands will smell like a delicious salad.

FB- Doug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Ishmael said:

Do you have to shave your hands often? How did you discover this?

Haha, shave my knuckles? The epoxy and acetone takes care of those hairs...

it was staring me in the face on the laundry room sink mirror-shelf at 930 at night . Deviant behavior took control. The "Cambodian Tire" gloves I foolishly bought broke like a cheap condom...:wacko:

32 minutes ago, Steam Flyer said:

Dear Lord please don't use acetone or any solvent to clean your skin!

Save your liver for drinking!

Vinegar cleans up epoxy quite nicely but be careful to not contaminate your mix with it... break up the curing, will leave you epoxy work truly fucked. But your hands will smell like a delicious salad.

I thought I have made all the epoxy fuckups one can make, until you told me this one to try now...:D

Thanks 12 and Lark for the tip on vinegar.

Another thing I learned, don't mix pear dish soap and water for wet sanding, almost made me gag...

 

Tempest must have lakefront property by now...https://www.instagram.com/p/BUxhaY5AYWT/

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/kelowna-takes-stock-of-water-levels-after-thunderstorm-hits-1.4141217

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
51 minutes ago, Steam Flyer said:

Dear Lord please don't use acetone or any solvent to clean your skin!

Save your liver for drinking!

Vinegar cleans up epoxy quite nicely but be careful to not contaminate your mix with it... break up the curing, will leave you epoxy work truly fucked. But your hands will smell like a delicious salad.

FB- Doug

As you point out, the main difference between white vinegar and acetone is that vinegar breaks down epoxy while acetone just thins it.  In fact small amounts of acetone are sometimes used to help in wetting out the glass - although lacquer thinner does the job much better with less loss in strength and no discolouration.  

Another difference is cost - you can get a gallon of white vinegar for well under $5

The toxicity of acetone is minimal at most - unless one chooses to drink or inhale it in large quantities:  https://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/chem_profiles/acetone.html .  Nevertheless, I would still prefer not to get it on bare skin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, 12 metre said:

...   ....

The toxicity of acetone is minimal at most - unless one chooses to drink or inhale it in large quantities:  https://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/chem_profiles/acetone.html .  Nevertheless, I would still prefer not to get it on bare skin.

Yea, but you notice that they don't say that it's good for you. Only that they have not been able to prove how bad it might be for you (via skin absorbtion). It's been in common use for a long time and people have been dying of various internal cancers etc etc a lot longer. The question is, do you want to be part of the experiement?

;)

FB- Doug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
38 minutes ago, Steam Flyer said:

Yea, but you notice that they don't say that it's good for you. Only that they have not been able to prove how bad it might be for you (via skin absorbtion). It's been in common use for a long time and people have been dying of various internal cancers etc etc a lot longer. The question is, do you want to be part of the experiement?

;)

FB- Doug

 

Agree for the most part - I guess what I was getting at was that people shouldn't freak out that they're going to die just because they got some acetone on them.  I prefer, or rather take steps to avoid contact with it these days, although in the past I've used it to clean my hands.  However, I was not what you'd call a heavy user.  Now I seldom touch the stuff unless on the rare occasion I'm using polyester resin.  With epoxy, I use vinegar exclusively - although mainly because it just plain works better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Steam Flyer said:

Yea, but you notice that they don't say that it's good for you. Only that they have not been able to prove how bad it might be for you (via skin absorbtion). It's been in common use for a long time and people have been dying of various internal cancers etc etc a lot longer. The question is, do you want to be part of the experiement?

;)

FB- Doug

Your body actually creates small amounts of acetone.

Just because it's volatile doesn't automatically make it toxic

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, 12 metre said:

 

Agree for the most part - I guess what I was getting at was that people shouldn't freak out that they're going to die just because they got some acetone on them.  I prefer, or rather take steps to avoid contact with it these days, although in the past I've used it to clean my hands.  However, I was not what you'd call a heavy user.  Now I seldom touch the stuff unless on the rare occasion I'm using polyester resin.  With epoxy, I use vinegar exclusively - although mainly because it just plain works better.

Agree 100%

For a short while, when I was first doing a lot of mechanical work, I used brake cleaner on my hands. Perhaps I've over reacted, but for a quie a hile now I've been a major pussy when it comes to potentially harmful chemicals.

 

12 hours ago, SloopJonB said:

Your body actually creates small amounts of acetone.

Just because it's volatile doesn't automatically make it toxic

Sure. Doesn't make it good for you eaither. Poison Ivy is 100% natural. Your body creates small amounts of hydrochloric acid too.

Would you want it if it was in a Jello-shot? If no, then I don't want it on my skin either (disclaimer- this rule does not apply to sunscreen).

:)

FB- Doug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/31/2017 at 5:29 PM, CruiserJim said:

Light at top of mast to satisfy the law, cheap solar powered garden lights fore and aft to cast light on the deck and topsides.  

This is what I shall do.

On 5/31/2017 at 8:37 PM, Crash said:

So just to talk some numbers here...rule of thumb as a RIO in F-14 Tomcats was 1 degree of look angle equals 1000 ft of altitude at 10 miles.  So at 1 mile, 1 degree of lookup is 100 ft.  At half a mile 1 degree of lookup is 50 feet.  An Ericson 23's masthead is about 30 feet off the water.  So at 1/4 mile, its only 1 degree up from the horizontal.  At an 1/8 of a mile its 2 degrees up.  At a 1/16th of a mile its 4 degrees up.  1/16 of a nautical mile is 900 feet.  I think your masthead light will be seen by any boater who is sober and competent.  You can help not sober and incompetent, no matter what you do....short of shining a high powered spot light directly into their eyes!  

Monocular vision is about 30 degrees in all directions (so 30 degrees up) and peripheral vision is about 60 degrees up.  So a masthead light, or a light at eye level are equally "seeable" by a human...

Yes, if you get close enough...the masthead light will drop out of "view"....but that range is around 113 ft for monocular vison, and 50 feet for peripheral vison...for an Ericson 23.... 

That's a good reality check and I think a masthead light with a little bit of "mood lighting" around the cockpit will ward off any dummies and compliment my social life ;)  Just need to figure out how to get the boat to list on command so I can tell the girls they have to come and sit on the same side as me to "level her off" :P

On 5/31/2017 at 10:06 PM, Norse Horse said:

The gently swaying mast head light is also more visible against the shore lights when another boat comes in to anchor.

Forgot to ask you if you renamed her or not.

 

I learned today that Gillette shave gel [for sensitive skin] works better than my orange hand cleaner on polyester resin, when you run out of acetone. It even cleans epoxy goo, but not near as good, it is missing an ingredient. Seriously!:D

 

Ha!  I am going to rename her.  You're going to have to wait for the pictures of the new decals :D

On 6/1/2017 at 0:48 AM, 12 metre said:

For epoxy goo, simple white vinegar beats acetone - hands down.  Seriously!

That is an awesome tip and I will be using it.  I always wondered how to get that shmoo off your skin.

On 6/1/2017 at 11:04 AM, Steam Flyer said:

Dear Lord please don't use acetone or any solvent to clean your skin!

Save your liver for drinking!

Vinegar cleans up epoxy quite nicely but be careful to not contaminate your mix with it... break up the curing, will leave you epoxy work truly fucked. But your hands will smell like a delicious salad.

FB- Doug

I fucking hate getting that stuff on my skin.  It's hard finding gloves that will keep it out too!  Vinyl gloves melt and I was told you need latex.  I bought some latex gloves and was a little irritated when, after wiping down the glass, I found little puddles of acetone in the fingertips of the gloves.  *GET IT OFF, GET IT OFF!!!*

On 6/1/2017 at 11:45 AM, Norse Horse said:

Haha, shave my knuckles? The epoxy and acetone takes care of those hairs...

it was staring me in the face on the laundry room sink mirror-shelf at 930 at night . Deviant behavior took control. The "Cambodian Tire" gloves I foolishly bought broke like a cheap condom...:wacko:

I thought I have made all the epoxy fuckups one can make, until you told me this one to try now...:D

Thanks 12 and Lark for the tip on vinegar.

Another thing I learned, don't mix pear dish soap and water for wet sanding, almost made me gag...

 

Tempest must have lakefront property by now...https://www.instagram.com/p/BUxhaY5AYWT/

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/kelowna-takes-stock-of-water-levels-after-thunderstorm-hits-1.4141217

You?  Deviant behaviour?  We're going to have to do some drinking next time I'm in Squampton :D

Yeah!  Things are going nuts here.  I took some photos for you guys yesterday of the staging area and boat launch at the Kelowna Yacht Club.  May not mean much to you if you've never seen the lake level here in the summer time so I'll have to follow up with some photos in the summer.  Lake is probably up a solid 6 feet.  Funny, the people living around the lake are losing their shit but you'd think they woulda learnt their lesson back in 1948.... we haven't even broken the record yet.  Maybe don't build shit on a flood plain...

On 6/1/2017 at 3:23 PM, SloopJonB said:

Your body actually creates small amounts of acetone.

Just because it's volatile doesn't automatically make it toxic

Like Paracelsus said, the dose makes the poison.... but I still hate getting chemicals on my skin.

P_20170601_165009.jpg

P_20170601_165037.jpg

P_20170601_164956.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I talked to a guy at Garhauer and he said the block systems rated for SWL of 1000lbs should be fine for my boat as a main sheet system.  Thinking a 4:1 should be fine.  Any opinions?  Thinking I'll order this guy:

https://www.garhauerstore.com/mast-boom/rope-boom-vangs/4-to-1-rope-vangs-25-us-4-1.html

For en extra $25 I could move up to one that looks like the only difference is 2000lbs SWL, bigger sheves and the possibility of 1/2" max line instead of 3/8" max line.  No idea if I need that or not but for $25 I don't mind buying it if it'll be better.

https://www.garhauerstore.com/mast-boom/rope-boom-vangs/4-to-1-rope-vangs-30-us-4-1.html

I'm also open to different systems from other manufacturers...... what do ya figure?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't imagine you'd need 1/2 inch line...but no one's mainsheet blocks ever blew up unexpectedly because they 2x as strong as needed!  Only issue I see with the Garhauers as pictured is that the cam cleat coming off the fiddle block isn't adjustable.  You really want to be able to adjust the angle so that you can get easy clean mainsheet releases when wanted/needed, while still have it easy to cleat  the main after sheeting in.  As every boats angles and helming positions differ, being able to adjust the angle of the cam cleat can make a big difference....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No way you need a system with a 1/2" mainsheet, the smaller one should be fine.  You may need more than 30' of line depending on how far back the sheet mounts to the boom.  At 4:1 that's about 7' extended by the time you wrap around the sheaves and leave something for a stopper knot.  Might not get the boom all the way out.   Also, since I'm spending your money, I sure liked the Harken system on my S-20, the angle of the cam cleat bracket was adjustable.  Not a big deal, and the fixed angle on the Garhauer is probably fine.  Just thought I'd mention it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Tempest said:

This is what I shall do.

That's a good reality check and I think a masthead light with a little bit of "mood lighting" around the cockpit will ward off any dummies and compliment my social life ;)  Just need to figure out how to get the boat to list on command so I can tell the girls they have to come and sit on the same side as me to "level her off" :P

Ha!  I am going to rename her.  You're going to have to wait for the pictures of the new decals :D

That is an awesome tip and I will be using it.  I always wondered how to get that shmoo off your skin.

I fucking hate getting that stuff on my skin.  It's hard finding gloves that will keep it out too!  Vinyl gloves melt and I was told you need latex.  I bought some latex gloves and was a little irritated when, after wiping down the glass, I found little puddles of acetone in the fingertips of the gloves.  *GET IT OFF, GET IT OFF!!!*

You?  Deviant behaviour?  We're going to have to do some drinking next time I'm in Squampton :D

Yeah!  Things are going nuts here.  I took some photos for you guys yesterday of the staging area and boat launch at the Kelowna Yacht Club.  May not mean much to you if you've never seen the lake level here in the summer time so I'll have to follow up with some photos in the summer.  Lake is probably up a solid 6 feet.  Funny, the people living around the lake are losing their shit but you'd think they woulda learnt their lesson back in 1948.... we haven't even broken the record yet.  Maybe don't build shit on a flood plain...

Like Paracelsus said, the dose makes the poison.... but I still hate getting chemicals on my skin.

P_20170601_165009.jpg

P_20170601_165037.jpg

P_20170601_164956.jpg

Nitrile gloves are the ones you want.  You can get nitrile exam gloves at most pharmacies a box of 100 should be about $10 or less.  These ones are on the thin side and tend to tear easily.  Home Depot has some decent looking nitrile gloves for $15/100 https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.100ct-disp-nitrile.1000710491.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1/2" running rigging on a 23' would be ridiculously oversized. Even ordinary 3/8" Dacron double braid is way stronger than needed but is about as small as you want to go for "hand".

Most blocks will handle 3 sizes of line so when I'm choosing them I try to get them sized so the line size I'm using falls in the middle of their range.

There's an old sailors curse - "Large lines and small blocks to you" - self explanatory and a situation to be avoided.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
51 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:

1/2" running rigging on a 23' would be ridiculously oversized. Even ordinary 3/8" Dacron double braid is way stronger than needed but is about as small as you want to go for "hand".

Most blocks will handle 3 sizes of line so when I'm choosing them I try to get them sized so the line size I'm using falls in the middle of their range.

There's an old sailors curse - "Large lines and small blocks to you" - self explanatory and a situation to be avoided.

I have found some stupidly large lines on boats. A friend with a 35 inherited 1" dock lines. Our 29 came with 5/8" jib sheets, they barely ran through the blocks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do yourself a major favor and buy a box of nitrile gloves for use when working with epoxy.

Try really hard to avoid acetone on your skin OR ON YOUR GLOVES. If you get acetone on your gloves time for a new pair. 

A box or two of nitrile gloves could save you from needing a liver transplant.

Also avoid dry sanding cured epoxy. without really good protection. Head to toe suits and a positive airflow mask is not overkill. There are a lot of people who have become sensitized to epoxy and now have to steer well clear of the stuff. I know as I am one. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/2/2017 at 3:40 PM, Tempest said:

So I talked to a guy at Garhauer and he said the block systems rated for SWL of 1000lbs should be fine for my boat as a main sheet system.  Thinking a 4:1 should be fine.  Any opinions?  Thinking I'll order this guy:

https://www.garhauerstore.com/mast-boom/rope-boom-vangs/4-to-1-rope-vangs-25-us-4-1.html

For en extra $25 I could move up to one that looks like the only difference is 2000lbs SWL, bigger sheves and the possibility of 1/2" max line instead of 3/8" max line.  No idea if I need that or not but for $25 I don't mind buying it if it'll be better.

Bigger blocks weight more, take more space and hurt more when they hit your head.  IMHO, even the smaller setup is overkill but Garhauer doesn't make anything smaller.  I use Harken blocks with a SWL of 800 lbs and my main is twice the size.

I'd be a bit worried about the lack of adjustability of the cam cleat side and angle.  To bad you don't have some old blocks to sail the boat with first to get an idea of what works.  Garhauer also makes blocks with snap shackles, since you have to remove the mainsheet to rig and unrig that might be a nice feature.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/2/2017 at 4:58 PM, Crash said:

Can't imagine you'd need 1/2 inch line...but no one's mainsheet blocks ever blew up unexpectedly because they 2x as strong as needed!  Only issue I see with the Garhauers as pictured is that the cam cleat coming off the fiddle block isn't adjustable.  You really want to be able to adjust the angle so that you can get easy clean mainsheet releases when wanted/needed, while still have it easy to cleat  the main after sheeting in.  As every boats angles and helming positions differ, being able to adjust the angle of the cam cleat can make a big difference....

 

On 6/2/2017 at 5:00 PM, CruiserJim said:

No way you need a system with a 1/2" mainsheet, the smaller one should be fine.  You may need more than 30' of line depending on how far back the sheet mounts to the boom.  At 4:1 that's about 7' extended by the time you wrap around the sheaves and leave something for a stopper knot.  Might not get the boom all the way out.   Also, since I'm spending your money, I sure liked the Harken system on my S-20, the angle of the cam cleat bracket was adjustable.  Not a big deal, and the fixed angle on the Garhauer is probably fine.  Just thought I'd mention it. 

No, I don't need 1/2" line.  When it came to sheet size I was more so thinking about what would be comfortable to have in my hands more than anything else as I know the line will be stronger than the blocks... but I also want blocks that aren't going to break.

Adjustable cleats is a magnificent point but it's looking like a feature I'd have to pay double for.  I'm thinking I'll just go with the Garhauer system for now and if it doesn't work, I can transplant that system up to replace my boom vang and get another fiddle for the main sheet.

On 6/2/2017 at 5:35 PM, 12 metre said:

Nitrile gloves are the ones you want.  You can get nitrile exam gloves at most pharmacies a box of 100 should be about $10 or less.  These ones are on the thin side and tend to tear easily.  Home Depot has some decent looking nitrile gloves for $15/100 https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.100ct-disp-nitrile.1000710491.html

Yeah, I think the ones I have are nitrile but they are thin.  They sell the black Gorilla nitrile mechanics gloves at the local gettin' spot and they are thicker than the ones I have so maybe I'll go snag a box.

On 6/2/2017 at 8:17 PM, SloopJonB said:

1/2" running rigging on a 23' would be ridiculously oversized. Even ordinary 3/8" Dacron double braid is way stronger than needed but is about as small as you want to go for "hand".

Most blocks will handle 3 sizes of line so when I'm choosing them I try to get them sized so the line size I'm using falls in the middle of their range.

There's an old sailors curse - "Large lines and small blocks to you" - self explanatory and a situation to be avoided.

Ha, yeah, that sounds like a nightmare.  I'm thinking 3/8" will probably be fine for hand feel but I don't want anything smaller.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/3/2017 at 2:46 PM, TQA said:

Do yourself a major favor and buy a box of nitrile gloves for use when working with epoxy.

Try really hard to avoid acetone on your skin OR ON YOUR GLOVES. If you get acetone on your gloves time for a new pair. 

A box or two of nitrile gloves could save you from needing a liver transplant.

Also avoid dry sanding cured epoxy. without really good protection. Head to toe suits and a positive airflow mask is not overkill. There are a lot of people who have become sensitized to epoxy and now have to steer well clear of the stuff. I know as I am one. 

Well I'm going to need a liver transplant at some point for sure but I'm going to try to stretch it out at least until pig liver transplants are safe and effective.  They are starting to 3D print organs so maybe I'll be OK!  What an exciting time to be alive.

Ok, so how in the world do you keep acetone off your gloves?  I usually dump it on a rag and wipe down my work but that stuff soaks through to the other side almost immediately.

Did not know about dry sanding epoxy!  Did a shit tonne of that last summer but I was pretty religious about using a face filter cartridge mask.  I will try to increase my precautionary measures this summer.  PPE fucking sucks to wear but is underrated in terms of stretching out your time on the blue marble.

10 hours ago, xyzzy said:

Bigger blocks weight more, take more space and hurt more when they hit your head.  IMHO, even the smaller setup is overkill but Garhauer doesn't make anything smaller.  I use Harken blocks with a SWL of 800 lbs and my main is twice the size.

I'd be a bit worried about the lack of adjustability of the cam cleat side and angle.  To bad you don't have some old blocks to sail the boat with first to get an idea of what works.  Garhauer also makes blocks with snap shackles, since you have to remove the mainsheet to rig and unrig that might be a nice feature.

How big is your boat?  You mean your main sail area is twice the size?

I hadn't notices the snap shackles but yes, that will make life easier.  See my reply above but I think I'm going to get the Garhauer stuff on order today so I can get this beast in the water ASAP.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
42 minutes ago, Tempest said:

Well I'm going to need a liver transplant at some point for sure but I'm going to try to stretch it out at least until pig liver transplants are safe and effective.  They are starting to 3D print organs so maybe I'll be OK!  What an exciting time to be alive.

Ok, so how in the world do you keep acetone off your gloves?  I usually dump it on a rag and wipe down my work but that stuff soaks through to the other side almost immediately.

Did not know about dry sanding epoxy!  Did a shit tonne of that last summer but I was pretty religious about using a face filter cartridge mask.  I will try to increase my precautionary measures this summer.  PPE fucking sucks to wear but is underrated in terms of stretching out your time on the blue marble.

How big is your boat?  You mean your main sail area is twice the size?

I hadn't notices the snap shackles but yes, that will make life easier.  See my reply above but I think I'm going to get the Garhauer stuff on order today so I can get this beast in the water ASAP.

Some WEST System literature on epoxy health issues: http://www.westsystem.com/safety/health-effects-from-overexposure-to-epoxy/  You can judge for yourself - main issues seem to  be dermatitis (about 10% of users experience this) and sensitization (2%).  Once cured, epoxy is inert, so sanding epoxy is no different than anything else - wear a dust mask, just as you would for sanding wood.

When working with epoxy, I never use acetone - white vinegar only.  So any possible issues of acetone on bare skin are not a concern for me.  At least when I'm working with epoxy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just stumbled across this thread.  My first boat was a Catalina 22.  It was in somewhat better condition but the foredeck had delamination/wet core issue and the prior owner repaired the swing keel.  It was a great starter boat but I'd get a Capri 22 or something similar if I were in the market for a smaller boat again.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Listen boys!  Boat work has been getting done!  sorry I haven't posted in a while but I've been busy.  As promised, here are photos of the shine girl.  She needs a bit of a shave but she looks good in yoga pants :P  Boat is starting to look like a hundred dollars!

P_20170617_205804.jpg

P_20170617_195817.jpg

P_20170617_200055.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The booty gods are appeased for now.  When is your first splash date?   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Booty is good.

What, no gif?:D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DUDE !!!

Boat and girl look excellent. Better than excellent, even.

Quit piddling around take them both sailing!

FB- Doug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Lark said:

The booty gods are appeased for now.  When is your first splash date?   

Some time between the 26th and 29th.  I want her rockin' and rollin' for the long weekend.  I've got some machining to do today on the mast step and then hopefully I'll get the mast up.  I'd like to get the rigger in this week.

3 hours ago, Norse Horse said:

Booty is good.

What, no gif?:D

You are a bad, bad man :P

2 hours ago, Steam Flyer said:

DUDE !!!

Boat and girl look excellent. Better than excellent, even.

Quit piddling around take them both sailing!

FB- Doug

I'm on it, sir!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

UPDATE

  • Ordered a Tohatsu Sailpro 6hp motor today.  $1852.20 Kanadian Pesos
  • Epoxy and 3M deck sealant are enroute
  • I've received my goosneck slide from Rig-Rite (and I got fucked hard on shipping.... what a shock.  Hope I never have to order from them again)
  • Mainsheet tackle is on the way from Garhauer Marine
  • The jackasses at Dwyer are fucking useless and they haven't even scheduled a production date for the spreader bases that I ordered 3 weeks ago.  I've already CAD'd up replacements and they are being fabricated right now.  After some testing I'll publish the CAD models and drawings online because fuck Dwyer.
  • I've started pulling the shit wiring out of the boat and I'll replace it with some skookum wiring.  Still need to test the nav lights and see what needs fixing
  • Stays/Shrouds are going to the rigger on Wednesday for replacement
  • Polishing is about 40% done.  Need to give the shine girl a bottle of Jamison's to keep her working
  • Pulled the vinyl cubby liners out so I need to find some replacement material for a reasonable price
  • I've scrubbed the V-birth and it looks good but I still have to do the rest of the interior.
  • I straightened the rudder gudgeon and I'm just waiting on epoxy so I can repair the transom and reinstall it
  • Motor mount came off for boat polishing so I'm going to make a backing plate out of 5/8" marine ply for more support
  • sanded down the hatch boards and hit them with some spar varnish so they look less shitty now.  In fact, they actually look kinda trendy
  • The mast pivot looks like swiss cheese because some armchair machinist fucked up twice trying to install the mast step... they only fucked up slightly less on the second shot so I've had to fix it.  Call me anal but I like it when things are straight (I'm sure there's a gay joke in there somewhere).  There were ears on the mast step once upon a time for a sheave that the centreboard line runs on.  Now there's a hillbilly sheave on the inside of the mast that doesn't look like it'll do fuck all.  Think I'm going to install a block on the inside of the compression post, drill a hole in it and then put a cleat on the outside.  I think the PITA of running the CB from inside the boat is less than the PITA of dealing with a line running up through the mast..... but I'm open to opinions....  I started machining the ear stubs thinking that I might replace them via JB weld but now I think I'm going to omit that whole shit system.

Think that's about it for now.  Next big thing on the chopping block is getting the boat off the trailer, checking for leaks and fixing the trailer bunks.  The fun never ends!!!

P_20170617_154252.jpg

P_20170617_152249.jpg

P_20170617_151819.jpg

P_20170614_130827.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like Rectal-Dental surgery for the centreboard control in the mast.

You could run the line for the internal block back to the cockpit along the ceiling and thru the bulkhead or companionway for singlehanding.

 

I've never seen a cabin mount winch shimmed to that angle before.

You can make your winch self tailing by adding this to it. They work fine on my 20 footer. Best protected with winch covers. http://www.force4.co.uk/barton-winchers-m.html#.WUkwI8aQzIU

I have one of these, leaded line holds it down. Must keep Shine Girl happy on the boat.  http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=waterline-design-companionway-screen-mosquito-net&path=-1|6880|2290149|2290154&id=2503930

Cheers

rectal-speculum-sims-01-25-040.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, I was thinking about that.  Just didn't want extra things messing up the inside of my cabin and I definitely don't want to be putting extra holes in the bulkhead.  I'm thinking I'm not going to have to touch it very often... put it down when the boat goes in the water... lift it up when I'm done sailing.  I bet it could be lifted every time I'm running but for the hassle, why bother?

It's kind of a weird setup.  I have 3 winches though so I think that's just for the halyards.  I've never seen those self tailing rings before.  They look cool, might have to give em a try.

Ha, skeeters just aren't a problem here!  I've spent many an evening on the lake and I've never had to deal with them.  Good to know that product is out there though if needed.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those winchers ain't cheap but they do work - sorta. They don't like the sun so get some winch covers or the OK sun will kill them.

If you want an all male crew, just put one of those speculums aboard - any women will run, trust me. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:

Those winchers ain't cheap but they do work - sorta. They don't like the sun so get some winch covers or the OK sun will kill them.

If you want an all male crew, just put one of those speculums aboard - any women will run, trust me. :D

lol I don't know how you know that and I'm not sure if I want to know but yeah, there won't be any speculums on board.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Tempest said:

lol I don't know how you know that and I'm not sure if I want to know but yeah, there won't be any speculums on board.

It's all fun until someone loses an eye.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got all of the holes machined into the mast step and drilled the mast today so my mast step is complete.  Going to raise the stick tomorrow, check all the stays and then they are going to the rigger tomorrow night.  Should have brand new stuff back by next week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now