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Brent Cummings

Help me rig my Melges 24

33 posts in this topic

Thought Id start a new Melges thread so I can ask questions as I get to them. I am finding that the previous owner had his own unique way of rigging this boat. I was able to download a manual from Melges and clearly I have some differences in set up.

So first question. The back stay set up. I have a fibreglass batten with what i am assuming is an Amsteel line. How and where does the batten attach to the mast? The manual shows it connects with two screws to the aft half of the mast crane. But it looks like mine is attached to the mast crane AND the top of the mast. And what kind of screws are used? This one had three different screws and two of them were wood screws? Are they not threaded holes? The one machine screw I found doesn't seem to fit any of the three holes I found. The pin on the under side of the crane aft does not seem to be used with this soft back stay. That likely? All for now.

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There should be two holes in top of crane, both are tapped for #8 or #10 stainless steal screws. If stripped fill with epoxy , drill and retap. Backstay is attached by pin to back undersurface back of cane, goes thru loop or tiny block at end of fiberglass batten

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Probably a good idea to replace backstay with a new one at this time. The top part of the backstay should have sail makers thimble. The bottom either has an eye splice for attaching to a block or latest rage is a low friction ring.

 

Flicker mounts on top of crane with two screws, as stated above. Try searching Google images for a pic or two.

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Download the Melges 24 manual from website. It is comprehensive.

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So I have the Manual. That's what alerted me to the different set up. The back stay is new already. Its the flicker that looks out of place. Longer than the normal ones I think. So I think he ran it right to the tip of the mast to compensate. In fact , in doing so, it looks like he attached a wind vane to it as well since he covered up all available space for the wind vane. Maybe its the flicker I need to replace.

The top of the back stay runs through a tiny little block attached to the back end of the flicker before attaching to the pin on the under side of the mast crane. This sound right?

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So I have the Manual. That's what alerted me to the different set up. The back stay is new already. Its the flicker that looks out of place. Longer than the normal ones I think. So I think he ran it right to the tip of the mast to compensate. In fact , in doing so, it looks like he attached a wind vane to it as well since he covered up all available space for the wind vane. Maybe its the flicker I need to replace.

The top of the back stay runs through a tiny little block attached to the back end of the flicker before attaching to the pin on the under side of the mast crane. This sound right?

Correct.

 

Our flicker is on its last legs. We have end for ended it already. Our wind vane mounts on side of crane, when we remember to put in on before stepping mast.

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Next question: How can I find the water line for the boat? Without putting it in the water. Yes I am planning on barrier coats and bottom paint. And yes I have considered all the pros and cons of doing so.

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Next question: How can I find the water line for the boat? Without putting it in the water. Yes I am planning on barrier coats and bottom paint. And yes I have considered all the pros and cons of doing so.

Ask R/P. I've found them quite helpful.

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Why not just put it in the water with your usual gear onboard? Most accurate. (Cut loose and old dye pack and you are good to go.)

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Bottom job done. Turned out pretty well. Time will tell if I got the water line right. Anyway next questions. Getting close to putting the mast up in my yard. The rigging on the mast post has me a bit perplexed. On the port side is a stainless contraption that the jib halyard hooks to? Not sure I am understanding the point of the jib halyard being the fore stay. So what is the point? Makes changing the jib a big job doesn't it?

Next. How is the Main halyard run? And what else is rigged on the starboard side of the mast post? Manual doesn't show it clearly. And again I feel the previous owner had some funny rigging there.Thanks agin. 2-3 weeks til launch.

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The contraption on port side of post is called the hyfield(sic) lever. It is used to tension the jib forestay. The halyard is attached to the forestay, so it's not really a halyard. The jib is attached to top of forestay and there is a Cunningham at the tack.

 

The main halyard is run through the Furrell on the starboard side and thru the cam cleat on the post. Typically there is 4:1 purchase that is used to pretension the main halyard.

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maybe we don't want to help you...

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On 4/29/2017 at 9:22 PM, Brent Cummings said:

Next. How is the Main halyard run? And what else is rigged on the starboard side of the mast post? Manual doesn't show it clearly. And again I feel the previous owner had some funny rigging there.Thanks agin. 2-3 weeks til launch.

Through the deck, through a jam cleat, down to a turning block, and then back to a conventional cleat, on mine.

what boat did you buy?

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I bought hull 004 from Toronto. Old boat but in good shape. Has newish sails and rigging. Previous owner had some funny things rigged up. I've discovered a missing padeye or something on the starboard side of the mast. Couldn't understand why I couldn't figure how the Cunningham was rigged. Also the fine tune of the Main halyard has me stumped. There is something missing at the bottom end of the mast support that the fine tune hooks to. Again not sure how the previous owner had it rigged. I'll figure something out. 

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Been ordering a lot of parts from Melges and they've been great - everything has shipped the next day. Sent pictures With questions to Andy Burdick and he's gotten right back to me: and this is a 23yo boat!

Ditto Quantum Sails: ordered a new jib online this weekend, and it arrived in Boston Tuesday atternoon.

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Posted (edited)

Here's a "duh" question. The Furler Sump Cover has Velcro along the back edge, so adding a strip on deck is logical. But how are the P & S edges secured? I could see adding more Velcro, but then why wouldn't it have been made that way? Are they secured using Vinyl tape, double-sided tape, unicorn tears?

 

i-9RBXRkh-L.jpg

 

Today we ordered the kit from Melges with new Stanchion Tops so we can cut off the existing stanchions, cut them to new height, and Epoxy and bolt the new tops on. Anyone done this? There's five million grades of epoxy to choose from.

Old wheels were not holding up to the marine environment and I wasn't sure of tire age. 

i-TRMBBHX-L.jpg

So ordered galvanized rims from eTrailer with Loadmaster Provider tires (205/75 R14, Load Range C = 1,760 lbs each @ 50psi, Speed Rating M - 81mph)

i-GTLpqzK-L.jpg

Edited by Dervish

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Have some Boom vang questions. Trying to figure out if mine is worn out. Wondering how much adjustment or travel the vang has. Mine doesn't seem to have much. I've been out four times so far. All four times in wind under 12 knots but haven't once touched the vang. When do you experienced Melges 24 sailors make Vang adjustments. 

Any simple way I can tell if my vang is fully functional?  I'd like to know when going down wind in a blow I can release the vang to dump some air. 

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This thread should help .

 

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BTW if the Schrader valve is leaking and you want to replace it, you need a thin wall 7/16" socket. My Craftsman was too thick, but one of the Harbor Freight color coded ones fit in.

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On 6/13/2017 at 4:46 PM, Brent Cummings said:

Have some Boom vang questions. Trying to figure out if mine is worn out. Wondering how much adjustment or travel the vang has. Mine doesn't seem to have much. I've been out four times so far. All four times in wind under 12 knots but haven't once touched the vang. When do you experienced Melges 24 sailors make Vang adjustments. 

Any simple way I can tell if my vang is fully functional?  I'd like to know when going down wind in a blow I can release the vang to dump some air. 

Youre going to pull the vang on hard upwind in breeze to vang sheet-that and the mainsheet bend the mast and flatten the sail. Very little to no backstay upwind.  Let the vang off before you try to turn downwind/round the weather mark.  If not the main stays too loaded and you cant turn.  Also the load on the gooseneck breaks the mast.   Put some backstay on downwind in breeze so the kite doesnt invert the mast.  Mast go boom 

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Mine leaks from 100 to 30 psi in 24 hours, so contacted Vang Master about rebuild kit.

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Im thinking now I have Vang that doesnt belong on the boat. My vang has an internal spring. No cyclinder. So did Melges ever use such a vang or did the previous owner just put a generic vang on that fit. Anyone have a picture of theirs?

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Yes, Hull #17 had spring vang. Worked great... didn't have to worry about seals wearing and not holding air!

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So when are most tightening the back stay? I understand having it on downwind in a big breeze to prevent a catastrophe but I would of thought I needed it up wind as well. Without it I seem to have a lot of sag in the forestay / jib luff. A previous post suggested no backstay up wind. Whats everyone else doing?

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Shrouds give you headstay tension.  Backstay makes it worse as it bends the mast.  Fractional rig-masthead goes aft, middle of the mast goes forward= loose headstay.  Upper and lower shrouds pull against that to keep the headstay tight. 

Find a tuning guide to get shroud tension numbers-try North or Ullman websites, and pick up a Loos gauge.  The small one is fine. 

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On 6/29/2017 at 3:27 PM, Brent Cummings said:

So when are most tightening the back stay? I understand having it on downwind in a big breeze to prevent a catastrophe but I would of thought I needed it up wind as well. Without it I seem to have a lot of sag in the forestay / jib luff. A previous post suggested no backstay up wind. Whats everyone else doing?

Along with Some Dudes' suggestion, what do you have for sails? Did you use the sailmakers tuning guide? Different sailmakers give slightly different base tensions at 8-10 knots, and it also depends on your mast.

Quantum and others have "quick tune" guides. Quantum base # is  

Loos Model B: 16

Loos PT2: 14

Also depends on forestay length, which can be adjusted at the Hyfield device. If the BPO adjusted that it won't have changed.

 https://www.quantumsails.com/en/sails/one-design/documents/melges24/white_mast_ronstan_quick_tune

If you sight up the rig as you sail upwind and make adjustments, you can see the differences pretty easily. 

 

 

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Question guys (sorry slight thread hijack): With the hyfield lever on the M24's, is it generally attached to the compression post with one screw or two??

Ours only has one screw and it look a little under engineered for my liking...but what do I know. 

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Quick and simple question. The MAin sail has one sail slug at the bottom edge of the sail. Do people just use a small line to tie that sail slug down to the gooseneck? I have had it come out of the track when hoisting the sail. No problem putting it back in but seems like it should be tied down. Anyway thats what Ive done. whats everyone else do? 

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If you don't have the Cunningham just make a loop with cord and tie it down. 

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Ok next issue. Previous owner has balls on any line that attaches to a sail. So HAlyards, TAck line, outhaul, etc. Ie make a loop in the line . Pass it through  the grommet or loop on sail, Ball through the loop and cinch it up. works great. Except. Under tension the loop squeezes through the loops on the sail and it takes great effort to get it undone. Like twenty minutes one night. Crew doesnt want to mess with it anymore. So any reason why I wouldnt cut them off and put shackles on? Whats everyone else using?

Getting the hang of racing this boat and having a ball. Moving up in the standings slowly. Finally got up on plane last week. Good thrill.

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