• Announcements

    • Zapata

      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  
167149

Filling holes

Recommended Posts

ripped up teak slats from cockpit seats and floor, was screwed down leaving1/8" holes through glass, was thinking along the lines of using a countersink to make the hole bigger then doing a fill with epoxy  glue mix finished with microspheres, do I need to use chopstrand as well ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My opinion is "no."  Epoxy with the appropriate filler is adequate.

If you are planning on re-installing new teak slats and screwing them down, chuck an Allen key into a drill and chew out some of the core, THEN fill with epoxy. This will do a better job of sealing the core.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ajax +1. Keep it simple as you can.

If all glass, epoxy and cabo mix, maybe bevel top of each hole, tape one side as backer, fill, lay a strip of tape over to exclude air, fair and forget, IMHO. Tape should come off easy...or use peel ply, or similar garp.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you plan on putting teak back down, forget the fasteners - just glue it down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not to disagree, but I thought "oily" teak did not take kindly to glues....eipoxy is, essentially, a glue. But, that is just me...and my curious head looking for good ways to deal with teak on my project. In the past, I used teak as pedestals or blocks,,,and bolted the pedestals in place, with the cheek blocks already placed...FWIW.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jack, I gotta say it, "Shoot me!"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That was so strange!  I guess it makes sense given what tires that big must cost.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/6/2017 at 5:09 PM, BobBill said:

Not to disagree, but I thought "oily" teak did not take kindly to glues....eipoxy is, essentially, a glue. But, that is just me...and my curious head looking for good ways to deal with teak on my project. In the past, I used teak as pedestals or blocks,,,and bolted the pedestals in place, with the cheek blocks already placed...FWIW.

Just wipe the teak with solvent before gluing - never had a failure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree. Acetone wipe, and a coarse sanding before the wipe, will glue with epoxy beautifully.
Every Thistle with teak rails has this treatment both for the rails themselves but also for the aft transom piece where the grating is. They don't come apart.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Acetone will do it?...

I do have two teak blocks supporting each aka on my outrigger, I bolted them in as sandwich with the tubes but did not use epoxy...will give that a try...always figured teak sort of oozed oils...very good and thanks.

Forewardportakabolts.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, SloopJonB said:

Just wipe the teak with solvent before gluing - never had a failure.

That's what i have done.  It may be marketing hype, but WEST seems to imply that their G/Glex epoxy is the one to use on difficult to bond woods: http://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/  - but I would still wipe down with acetone first/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd agree on the GFlex or equivalent. I don't know that the adhesion is different, it's just more flexible and therefore better able to absorb the inevitable movement. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have one stress area...will give G Flex a go...small area.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now