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LionessRacing

Lazy Jack & Topping Lift line

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Looking for recommendations for topping lift and lazy jack lines. Low weight and windage and excellent UV would be ideal.    

Dyneema 2mm ? 

18' boom, 47' hoist. 

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Why dyneema, do you really have that much money to burn?

For my lazy jack lines I used 12 strand coated HT Polyester line: http://www.alpha-ropes.com. (4mm for a 28 foot boat). Also used Tylaska FR5 (T-FR5) ferrules instead of blocks. The 12 strand line makes it easy to splice them on.

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Dyneema in the smaller diameters is surprisingly cheap. I've found you can often find remnants of the thin stuff in lengths of 50' or more that make it even cheaper. 

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9 hours ago, LionessRacing said:

Looking for recommendations for topping lift and lazy jack lines. Low weight and windage and excellent UV would be ideal.    

Dyneema 2mm ? 

18' boom, 47' hoist. 

How are you going to terminate 2mm dyneema?  It doesn't hold knots well and splicing 2mm would be very difficult IMHO.  BTW I have 1/8" (3mm) spliced dyneema lazy jacks on a Stack Pak.  I used ss rings vs. blocks or ferrules.

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I used 2.5mm Samson As-78. easy to splice using a locked brummel. holds good without stitching.

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2 hours ago, J28 said:

How are you going to terminate 2mm dyneema?  It doesn't hold knots well and splicing 2mm would be very difficult IMHO.  BTW I have 1/8" (3mm) spliced dyneema lazy jacks on a Stack Pak.  I used ss rings vs. blocks or ferrules.

2mm isn't that difficult to splice.  I've made a lot of soft shackles out of Samson "lash-it".  I either use a whipping needle or a piece of thin wire as a fid.  They make great key chains and I also used them on my 5O5 when I had one. 

The 2.5mm (7/64") is easier though!

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Those of you using dyneema lazy jacks - do you ever find that batten pockets or other sharpish parts of the main pull strands out of the rope weave or does it all hold together pretty well?

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My 3mm diameter Amsteel jacks havn't had that problem at all. It's pretty slippery stuff but by the same token, I watch it like a hawk when I'm raising the main so I never let any interference get out of hand.

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for Lazy Jacks I use a rather elastic line, not too thin. Works excellent. Lazy Jack lines hould just gather the sail, not carry any other load.

Topping lift is another story, coated dyneema, probably 6 mm, maybe 8. Hardly use the topping lift but do not want it elastic - in case I have to use it.

~40 ft LOA

//J

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My jacklines fasten to fiberglass battens at the top of my stackpack. I like the Amsteel jacks both because they're very slippery, which helps get the sail in the pack, and because their lack of stretch causes any lateral force on them to translate into lift on the battens, which also helps the main stow well. 

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Liros actually make a lazy jack rope in 4 & 8mm. It's the same construction as dyneema so easy to splice but it's made of poly, good stuff

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Polyester has the same UV resistance as dyneema,. I guess you're confusing it with polypropylene. My 12 strand polyester lazy jack lines are 3 years old and they are like new.

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How do you adjust the topping lift? Through the boom and out or masthead sheave and down?

If the latter method you can use a 6mm dyneema topping lift as an emergency main halyard as well.

I think 3mm is fine for lazy jacks but I'd use something a little bit bigger in diameter and stronger for a topping lift. Think of situation where you've gone aground and  want to swing out the boom with a bunch of people on it quickly. Sure you could use a main halyard, but it might be quicker to just use a strong topping lift which may be important on a falling tide.

Also, I'm not sure of strength loss of such small dyneema and UV. I'm ok with 6mm not losing much strength over the years but not sure how the really skinny stuff holds up.

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The advantage of a super light topping lift (2 or 3mm) is that it flies out of the way of the sails leech in pretty much all conditions.  It'll handle normal sail shaping and boom storage loads just fine.  I spliced a 18mm ultralite Harken block in and used 3mm double braid along the boom for adjustment.

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I've used 3mm Dyneema as a TL for years.  It works great but originally made one hell of a loud, constant tone.  Main sheet tension  didn't end it so I wrapped a tiny cord a few times around TL top to bottom.  Killed the vortex.

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The sound goes away if you support the boom with your main halyard when at the dock. It also keeps the main halyard from slapping against the mast and driving everyone nearby crazy...

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On 8/17/2017 at 6:13 PM, foiledin74 said:

I've used 3mm Dyneema as a TL for years.  It works great but originally made one hell of a loud, constant tone.  Main sheet tension  didn't end it so I wrapped a tiny cord a few times around TL top to bottom.  Killed the vortex.

Try a length of bungee cord wrapped around the bottom end. About 6" should do it, taped top and bottom. See TP52 backstays for reference.

 

HW

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On 10/1/2017 at 9:49 PM, LionessRacing said:

So, blocks or low friction rings for the cascade ?

Blocks if they're in the budget, rings if they're not. You should have something in there for chafe, but blocks aren't always necessary.

 

HW

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Blocks if you want to adjust by hand. A 4:1 purchase will be adequate if you adjust the topping lift on the boom or mast  (but you'd want to splice at least a 8mm rope cover to hand hold it if you're using 3mm Dyneema. Maybe jump to 5 or 6:1 if you're leading it back to the cockpit and going through a bunch of turning blocks (again adjust by hand)

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