fstbttms

Underwater Max Prop Lubrication

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Excellent video fastbottoms. How often do you add grease? Also where do I get the removable zerk and gun? 

On another note, you should get some ball type allen screwdrivers. They are a lot easier than allen keys.

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1 minute ago, ni·hil·ism said:

Excellent video fastbottoms. How often do you add grease? Also where do I get the removable zerk and gun? 

On another note, you should get some ball type allen screwdrivers. They are a lot easier than allen keys.

Thanks. The installation manual recommends lubrication every two years. But I doubt that most owners actually do that and nothing bad seems to happen. I suspect it's enough to simply do it when the boat comes out for paint. The props are shipped with several of the zerk fittings but if you've lost yours you can get them from PYI or buy one whereever these things are sold. It's a 6mm. The grease gun is just an off the shelf gun, available at any auto parts store or chandlery. I got mine at Svendsen's in Alameda. They sell the Lubriplate 130AA grease there as well.

BTW- in my business, tools are consumables and those ball drivers are relatively expensive and short-lived. That ditty bag hanging from the shaft has a pound or two of loose Allen keys in it that I've collected over the years. It's essentially a lifetime supply. 

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I just checked and I have the zerk inside of the same bag as the Lubriplate. I just need the gun apparently! I dive the boat in SD every two weeks to stay on top of the prop and keep the tube worms from forming in various places where the Biocop is no longer protecting from hitchhikers. It's been a year and a half and 3000 nm so probably time.

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My Maxprop from 25 years ago didn't have the tapped holes you show screwing the zerk fittings into. I drilled and tapped and started doing just as you show and thought I was pretty clever. I spoke with the distributors and they told me that the newer props were already tapped and ready for that grease action. Great Minds Think Alike! 

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Mine has a zirc under the zinc.  Stays there permanently.  PYI (Jason, if I recall correctly) recommends this mod and will do it if/when you send the prop in for service.  Or just DYI at the next haulout. 

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19 hours ago, jamhass said:

Mine has a zirc under the zinc.  Stays there permanently.  PYI (Jason, if I recall correctly) recommends this mod and will do it if/when you send the prop in for service.  Or just DYI at the next haulout. 

Jerome is the go-to guy for service at PYI. Top marks from me.  

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On 9/16/2017 at 9:16 AM, ni·hil·ism said:

On another note, you should get some ball type allen screwdrivers. They are a lot easier than allen keys.

So today I received a set of ball drivers via Amazon. I didn't order them and there was nothing in or on the package to indicate who did. Since I haven't spoken of ball drivers to anybody outside of this thread, I can only assume somebody reading this thread sent them. If so, thanks!

 

zHkffH.jpg

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if you grease every 2 years, you will be fine.

If you try to go longer, you will find barnacles starting to grow in cavities where the grease should be.

 

I grease mine on the hard every spring while bottom painting.

I always order extra lubriplate 130aa, as it is a great winch grease too (it the old Barlow winch grease of 30 years ago).

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3 minutes ago, Foreverslow said:

if you grease every 2 years, you will be fine.

If you try to go longer, you will find barnacles starting to grow in cavities where the grease should be.

 

You're saying that barnacles will grow inside the prop? Because that's the only place grease should be.

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Max props use grease nipples.  There will be two allen head grub screws capping the holes that recieve the grease nipples. Remove grubs, install nipples.  Because of its design  Max props blow out grease rapidly...re pack with grease every season . 

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8 hours ago, fstbttms said:

You're saying that barnacles will grow inside the prop? Because that's the only place grease should be.

correct

at the end of 2 seasons of use, the grease washes out leaving the void where those little buggers start to grow and if left to their own, will cause issues with the feathering.

Keep grease in there and you will not have any issues.

 

If you do need to tear it apart, it can be a PIA to reassemble without a 2nd set of hands as you need to keep all the internals aligned due to the pitch adjustment as you try to clamp the 2 shells together.

A trick I sent on to Kevin Woody at PYI many years ago is to get 2 magic markers of different colors and color code the gear teeth that match the pitch you are setting.

You can now do a quick visual as you close the clam shells and then bolt together.

Then you can grease the internals with the zerk fittings until it oozes out the orifices.

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Gosh, in over twenty years of removing, installing and repitching Max Props (all underwater, BTW), I have never seen the grease wash out in just two years, much less ever seen anything growing inside of one, including barnacles. rjmv3U.jpg

 

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On 11/22/2017 at 7:51 AM, fstbttms said:

Gosh, in over twenty years of removing, installing and repitching Max Props (all underwater, BTW), I have never seen the grease wash out in just two years, much less ever seen anything growing inside of one, including barnacles. rjmv3U.jpg

 

You my friend, are a star.  I cannot envision changing pitch on a MaxProp, especially one of the original Max Bianchi ones - underwater.  Do you hang a tarp from the propshaft to catch the inevitable pieces that fall off?  Kudos to you.

The big 2-blade ones we put on the IOR Maxis (mainly for rating purposes) were the largest he made, but still not big enough, so had an extra 9 inches of bronze blade brazed onto each tip.  42" diameter some of them.  Definitely a Travellift job.

No grease nipples then.  You had to dismantle, re-fill, re-calibrate and rebuild.  Ugh.

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On 11/22/2017 at 1:29 PM, eliboat said:

I grease my prop every season.  It takes all of a few minutes to do and gives me piece of mind.

 

 

...as it displaces any residual water that could freeze while on the hard and cause expensive, or worse, untimely,  problems when back in the water.

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7 minutes ago, sail69 said:

...as it displaces any residual water that could freeze while on the hard and cause expensive, or worse, untimely,  problems when back in the water.

The Max Prop is not watertight therefore most of the water drains out when the boat is hauled. There is no way freezing water could damage the prop.

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23 hours ago, fstbttms said:

The Max Prop is not watertight therefore most of the water drains out when the boat is hauled. There is no way freezing water could damage the prop.

..."residual water" being the operative word of that sentence.   So I will continue to listen to my mechanic and pump a surprising amount of grease into my very happy prop every year.

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Pump completly full...at every opportunity.  Max props..by design need to be full of grease and by design  blow grease.

 

max props use grease as a shock absorber when going from forward to reverse.   Grease that is in the forrward chamber is compressed when the housing reverses.  This grease it presurised thru a small hole between the forward and reverse chamber.  A shock absorber.  When this grease is gone...the prop may still have lubricant , but it does have the shock absorber.  Without the shock absorber the stop strikes  the hub with a CLONK and gradually rounds over the stop.  A rounded over stop then overloads the prop ss fasteners, snapping  thier heads off.

 

i have worked with max props for a very long time.

 

always full of grease.  Medium viscosity...dont use high viscosity grease 

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The lubriplate they sell works super in the maxprop.

And the tube has threads for their grease gun.

Bonus is that Lubriplate is the old Barlow winch grease of the 80s. So the tube can also handle your winch cleaning/rebuild.

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On 1/11/2018 at 5:56 PM, Foreverslow said:

The lubriplate they sell works super in the maxprop.

And the tube has threads for their grease gun.

Bonus is that Lubriplate is the old Barlow winch grease of the 80s. So the tube can also handle your winch cleaning/rebuild.

I have an ancient tube of Barient Barlube, it looks very similar.

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On 1/12/2018 at 2:56 AM, Foreverslow said:

The lubriplate they sell works super in the maxprop.

And the tube has threads for their grease gun.

Bonus is that Lubriplate is the old Barlow winch grease of the 80s. So the tube can also handle your winch cleaning/rebuild.

Lubriplate is recomended, but its hard to find outside of marine stores  and its  thin...viscosity.

centrifugal force rapily blows this thin lubriplate grease out of the prop joints .

I use normal offthe shelf waterproof  grease...its a bit thicker, , seems to last longer and is availble everywhere.

avoid high viscosity,  non washout , wax like grease.   The type that is used for Hundested adjustable pitch props .  Ive tried it...the grease cant migrate thru the pressure relief  holes inside the prop chambers

huge hydraulic force is generated  inside the prop when shifting forward reverse  and it  snapped the heads off the max prop body bolts 

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9 hours ago, slug zitski said:

Lubriplate is recomended, but its hard to find outside of marine stores  and its  thin...viscosity.

centrifugal force rapily blows this thin lubriplate grease out of the prop joints .

I use normal offthe shelf waterproof  grease...its a bit thicker, , seems to last longer and is availble everywhere.

avoid high viscosity,  non washout , wax like grease.   The type that is used for Hundested adjustable pitch props .  Ive tried it...the grease cant migrate thru the pressure relief  holes inside the prop chambers

huge hydraulic force is generated  inside the prop when shifting forward reverse  and it  snapped the heads off the max prop body bolts 

Huh?

It's probably a pretty safe assumption that people who own MaxProps have access to marine stores. In a pinch, you can buy it directly from PYI at a reasonable price:

https://store.pyiinc.com/products/max-prop-grease

A single 10 oz tube will lube a prop a couple of times, which means you can go up to four years with a single tube, per PYI. Throw a spare on the boat and you're good for eight years as you hunt for the wiley marine store or wait for PYI's delivery donkey. 

Call me crazy, but I'm inclined to use the grease with the viscosity, water resistance, and lubricity that my multi-thousand dollar prop was designed to use.  

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It takes almost 2 tubes of grease to fill my prop...every year.  

Sometimes i must repack in places without marine stores 

pain in the ass to carry several different types  of grease

 

IMG_7847.jpg

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10 hours ago, slug zitski said:

Lubriplate is recomended, but its hard to find outside of marine stores...

Gosh, only a dozen or two sellers of Lubriplate 130-AA on Amazon. But you're right, why use the lubricant that is recommended by the manufacturer  :rolleyes:

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1 hour ago, slug zitski said:

It takes almost 2 tubes of grease to fill my prop...every year.  

Sometimes i must repack in places without marine stores 

pain in the ass to carry several different types  of grease

 

IMG_7847.jpg

I find it hard to believe that you need more than 20 oz of grease to lube that prop.

I agree that it's mildly inconvenient to store more than one kind of grease aboard. I've got five different kinds (winch, prop, Tef-Gel, No-Ox-Id, and Krytox) and I'll be damned if I can find storage space for all those tubes. I thought about getting rid of them all so could I fit another three beers on the boat but that would add almost a pound of weight, so I decided against.

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Yup, almost 2 tubes....

As i said...lubriplate is a thin grease...its nothing special

a max prop is not some kinda precision device spinning a 10,000 rpm that needs a technical lubricant. 

its a crude piece of bronze. 

lubriplate is calcium base and its viscosity is  NLGI 1

normal grease works fine. That prop pictured has used normal grease since 1994.

i think they recomend thin grease so that the prop feathers easily at low speed 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_7849.PNG

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4 hours ago, IStream said:

I find it hard to believe that you need more than 20 oz of grease to lube that prop.

You don't need two tubes to fill a Max Prop, certainly no Max Prop model I've ever installed or lubricated. 

 

And BTW- the feathering prop in that picture doesn't look like a Max Prop to me.

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4 hours ago, fstbttms said:

You don't need two tubes to fill a Max Prop, certainly no Max Prop model I've ever installed or lubricated. 

 

And BTW- the feathering prop in that picture doesn't look like a Max Prop to me.

Fat hub, but the blades look Max.

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Just now, Ishmael said:

Fat hub, but the blades look Max.

The forward end of the hub doesn't look right. Too thin. Plus, there are large flat surfaces under each Max Prop blade, which I do not see here.

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Also look at the shape of the spinner halves at the forward end. The Max Prop has a distinctive narrowing while the other prop remains much straighter:

1pfg8h.jpg

LLrmqU.jpg

Further, notice the flat surfaces under the Max Prop blades. Clearly noticeable even when the blades are feathered. Don't see those on the other prop.

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You've seen a thousand times more of these than I have so I'll take your word for it. Whatever it is, it must be about 8 feet in diameter to swallow up 20 oz of grease.

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On 2017-09-16 at 7:10 PM, Rasputin22 said:

My Maxprop from 25 years ago didn't have the tapped holes you show screwing the zerk fittings into. I drilled and tapped and started doing just as you show and thought I was pretty clever. I spoke with the distributors and they told me that the newer props were already tapped and ready for that grease action. Great Minds Think Alike! 

Hi Rasputin,

I have also a classic Max-Prop and will add grease nipples. How many and where did you drill the holes? At the bearing surface or between?

BR,

Jonas 

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On 1/14/2018 at 12:20 PM, slug zitski said:

Yup, almost 2 tubes....

As i said...lubriplate is a thin grease...its nothing special

a max prop is not some kinda precision device spinning a 10,000 rpm that needs a technical lubricant. 

its a crude piece of bronze. 

lubriplate is calcium base and its viscosity is  NLGI 1

normal grease works fine. That prop pictured has used normal grease since 1994.

i think they recomend thin grease so that the prop feathers easily at low speed 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Are you in very warm water?   

I would agree that a different brand with the same base and specs is probably ok... but why not carry the right stuff for the prop, and use it elsewhere as well instead?  I do like calcium based greases(like the lubriplate), I have a great big stack of tins of lubriplate based grease from an airline repair depot(they put expiry dates on everything, even grease, lol).  Seems to last nicely on just about everything.  

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At sea you cant lubricate the prop.  I haul every 12 months . That cycle is ok...the prop will have grease...just not enough to keep it tight...vibration 

temp is not the reason for grease blow out 

Max props are crude things..no lip seal, wide machining tolerances .. i suspect that centrifugal force  , as the prop rotates , blows the grease out  

i have tried thicker grease but it was not succesful..prop stiff, hard to feather and excess hydralic force generated inside the hub during the forward reverse cycle that snapped the heads off the body fastners on the prop. 

 

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