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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  
George Hackett

Adhesive Recommendations

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what strength is desired (what's the application?).  Why not a compatible two part resin & hardener based on what the deck is made from (epoxy, vinyl ester, etc.)?  You need to properly prepare it for bonding (e.g. sand and clean to expose the base material).

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epoxy with high strength additive from WEST- it what I use for critical bonding of hardware, but, you need clamping pressure of some sort until it's cured.

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Rubber toughened epoxy adhesive is sort of a generic term for what you want. Avoid peel in glued joints. Direct tension is good.

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I plan to use Ropeye padeyes for tweakers and block anchoring points. And a bunch have been used in the stern as tie down points. And these were not through deck, rather glued on deck. And they hold real well. But the guys at the boat yard are tight lipped on what they used. 

9537AC04-85BF-4F13-B3A8-07F6970E72DD.jpeg

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the stick on loops are only good to 500 KG max working load  Ropeye recommends sikaflex or spadbond.  For use for tie downs and inside cabin not for rigging loads

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4 hours ago, George Hackett said:

I plan to use Ropeye padeyes for tweakers and block anchoring points. And a bunch have been used in the stern as tie down points. And these were not through deck, rather glued on deck. And they hold real well. But the guys at the boat yard are tight lipped on what they used. 

 

If you use them for tweakers and anchoring points, they can be under pretty strong tension .  On my J/109 I installed Wichard folding padeyes through deck bolted  near the rail to use for tweakers.  When using the Code zero they see a pretty significant load I wouldn't want to trust to something just surface bonded.  The Ropeyes are pretty cool from looking at their catalog.  You could use the through deck type for those that see significant loads as shown in their catalog, which also provides the recommended bonding technique the Overboard provided.  That is one nice looking boat!

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9 hours ago, George Hackett said:

Thanks WHK. She is a Mills43. I have ordered the through deck pad eyes setup. When finished, I will post some photos. 

I've used self-made rope-eye bonded eyes on the interior before, mostly for securing items (spare liferaft, ditch kit, storm sails) and hard points for pipe berths. Bonded with Plexus, thickened West System or G-Flex. Worked very well but surface prep is critical.

 

HW

 

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On October 6, 2017 at 7:43 AM, WHK said:

If you use them for tweakers and anchoring points, they can be under pretty strong tension .  On my J/109 I installed Wichard folding padeyes through deck bolted  near the rail to use for tweakers.  When using the Code zero they see a pretty significant load I wouldn't want to trust to something just surface bonded.  The Ropeyes are pretty cool from looking at their catalog.  You could use the through deck type for those that see significant loads as shown in their catalog, which also provides the recommended bonding technique the Overboard provided.  That is one nice looking boat!

No offense but tweakers on a J/109?  That's what the boom is for.

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1 minute ago, ease hike trim said:

No offense but tweakers on a J/109?  That's what the boom is for.

You obviously have never flown a code zero on a J/109......

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