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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  
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Bruce T. Shark

Flicker Construction

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Gonna put a flicker on the boat this year, as a trial, since the backstay is synthetic and has a heat shrunk UV cover I want to use a rolling block, anyone know a source?  Would like the block/padeye to bolt to the flicker.

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Thanks J28, was hoping for the end fitting, but guess I am going to have to call them/email them.

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I wonder if one could just put a dyneema bight through a hole in the flicker and then tie a knot in the two loose ends so it can't pull back out.  Would dyneema chafe the backstay?

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what happened to attaching a block to a length of 'glass batten? who knew backstay flickers had become a prebuilt system to be purchased not a home made mod...

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After cutting my hands to shreds on an old UV-degraded batten flicker while trying to reattach a block to it, the new powdered coated flicker I got from North for $20 or $30 was the best money spent on the boat!  I'm pretty sure the little Harken block from West Marine cost more...

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Get your binoculars and look at Diablo's set up...RBS flicker and harken block but we'll replace the block with a low friction ring this winter.

Cheers, Greg

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On 10/25/2017 at 10:27 PM, Ultraman said:

After cutting my hands to shreds on an old UV-degraded batten flicker while trying to reattach a block to it, the new powdered coated flicker I got from North for $20 or $30 was the best money spent on the boat!  I'm pretty sure the little Harken block from West Marine cost more...

Nice. Hate those fine fiberglass slivers 

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