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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

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Don't underestimate old bronze technology. Many who have gone soft have then gone back to modern bronze on SH race boats. 

Your application incl stay material, what sail, sail size, size of boat and crew numbers will govern selection. Top of the range proprietary soft hanks be prepared to trade a kidney. Some will be simple loops, others a snap fit arrangement. Local sailmaker retro soft hanks a lot less dollars but not quite as sexy. 

 

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The sails stay wet so want to elimnate the corrosion that occurs.   The grommets have been green since season one and every few weeks I need to work the hanks to get them working.  Time for a change!

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On 10/27/2017 at 3:34 PM, vdm said:

Love my soft hanks.

Also can use soft shackles through the existing grommets

IMG_20160213_141756.jpg

Just to clarify,  shown in the picture is your soft hank?  Reason I ask is that new jib has some loops sewn in the sail there to allow you to run a line from one loop to the other around the forestay and hold it closer to the forestay between the tack and where it goes into the luff groove.   Your shot looks like an upgrade where a  plastic buckle is used.  I would not have thought the setup shown is strong enough for being a hank ? 

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9 minutes ago, Soho said:

Just to clarify,  shown in the picture is your soft hank?  Reason I ask is that new jib has some loops sewn in the sail there to allow you to run a line from one loop to the other around the forestay and hold it closer to the forestay between the tack and where it goes into the luff groove

you sure that's what they're for?

Usually have a loop a foot or so up from the tack so you can hook up a downfucker and blow the tack for inline changes.

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1 hour ago, duncan (the other one) said:

you sure that's what they're for?

Usually have a loop a foot or so up from the tack so you can hook up a downfucker and blow the tack for inline changes.

You are not going to be doing many in-line changes with jibs on soft hanks

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10 hours ago, Soho said:

Just to clarify,  shown in the picture is your soft hank?  Reason I ask is that new jib has some loops sewn in the sail there to allow you to run a line from one loop to the other around the forestay and hold it closer to the forestay between the tack and where it goes into the luff groove.   Your shot looks like an upgrade where a  plastic buckle is used.  I would not have thought the setup shown is strong enough for being a hank ? 

Yes that's the actual hank.  I haven't seen one break in normal use yet.

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Yup, Actual hank.

Work well, never broken one.

Do not catch on halyards or spinnakers either like bronze piston hanks.

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6 hours ago, crashtestdummy said:

Anyone have a soft hank with a dogbone?

I've used North's dogbone hanks, they're strong but need some tweaking in practice. Mainly that the bone-loop size ratio is off, and it's a fight to get the bone in/out. Slightly smaller bone or bigger eye would solve that.

24 minutes ago, vdm said:

Yup, Actual hank.

Work well, never broken one.

Do not catch on halyards or spinnakers either like bronze piston hanks.

+1 love these things, although it's worth it to put a dyneema bone hank at the very top, as I've experienced them consistently breaking/releasing under load.

 

If you're looking to replace the grommets, it's going to get pricey, as you will have to get a sailmaker to stitch in new patches. If just replacing the piston hanks, it can be done yourself with little cost and some work.

 

HW

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We use the same soft webbing  / buckle hanks.  No issues at all and unlike brass hanks, spin sheets don't hang up on them.

 

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14 hours ago, duncan (the other one) said:

soho was talking luff grooves -- nothing about hanks.

The whole thread is about soft hanks genius

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7 hours ago, crashtestdummy said:

Anyone have a soft hank with a dogbone?

We have been using dogbones for softhanks for a while but actually changed to using small biners as they are a lot easier to use

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2 hours ago, Christian said:

The whole thread is about soft hanks genius

Sorry if my response to soho twisted the knickers around your brain stem.  'tis difficult sometimes to keep more than one train of thought, isn't it?  Maybe you should have paused the gum chewing.

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Wichard hanks?  I know some don't like them, but I've never had a problem with mine.  Won't prevent corrosion of the hank itself, but don't bind up like piston hanks.

PRD-900108.jpg

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we switched from bronze to the clip ones on our 8mr to save the spin. they will hold (35kts plus and still on). We looked at different options, also soft loops with a dogbone, or a washer. all works well, just a matter of preference

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I've got the plastic buckles... no problems... easy to undo even with cold wet gloved fingers, and no corrosion/jamming issues...

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3 hours ago, overdraft said:

I've got the plastic buckles... no problems... easy to undo even with cold wet gloved fingers, and no corrosion/jamming issues...

+1 we love ours and all newer sails now have them. Much easier to flake the sail as the bronze hanks don't get caught on the lifelines.

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On 10/30/2017 at 2:22 PM, vdm said:

Yup, Actual hank.

Work well, never broken one.

Do not catch on halyards or spinnakers either like bronze piston hanks.

Wow,  interesting,  I would have thought that they would break,  but I guess not,  learn something new every day...

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Plastic buckles for us too. So far so good. Much kinder on the spin and when dragging spin sheets across them. 

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On 2017-11-01 at 4:32 AM, crashtestdummy said:

Blur,

given your vast experience how would you rate them?  Would if doing  inside gybes?

2

Works great, no problems w inside gybes.

Once in a while, one opens when handling the sail on deck, but it's easy to catch when hoisting.

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With the buckles, ease of use comes largely from how their actually sewn onto the sail.  You want the male end to be stitched more or less right up to the luff and then wrap around the forestay while the female end should have a bit of a tail after the buckle without any stitching.  This allows you to have the luff as close to the forestay as possible while still having some room to easily get everything buckled.

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On 11/15/2017 at 1:21 PM, Soho said:

Wow,  interesting,  I would have thought that they would break,  but I guess not,  learn something new every day...

My understanding is that the hanks are there to keep the sail tidy when flaked and hoisting. When in use, the tension in the luff is more than the forestay, so the hanks actually hold the forestay near the luff. The sail shouldn't be hanging off the forestay by the hanks. If it is, tighten the luff.

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1 hour ago, RobG said:

My understanding is that the hanks are there to keep the sail tidy when flaked and hoisting. When in use, the tension in the luff is more than the forestay, so the hanks actually hold the forestay near the luff. The sail shouldn't be hanging off the forestay by the hanks. If it is, tighten the luff.

Not really on a bigger boat, where forestay tension is key to get the shape right. There's tension on the hanks, so it makes sense to double up near the top, especially if the luff is shorter than the forestay (as in jib #3/4).

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can't imagine anything as easily one-hand operable, durable & troublefree as the Wichard hanks. 2rtws with hank-on-jibs - the only easier & more comfaortablesystem would have been a roller-furler

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As for jamming, a dab of waterproof grease in the spring should be all you need. Not Sailkote; heavy grease.

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