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Mrleft8

Voltage regulator blues

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I have an old(er) Dihatsu mini dump truck. It has myriad problems, including missing it's roof, and seats. But up until recently it started, and ran just fine. Stopping became an issue about 2 months ago, when the brakes failed spectacularly. (Nothing is as fast as a vehicle moving towards a steel post at 2MPH with the brake pedal flopping lethargically on the floor)

I semi sorted out the brake issue, and now it won't start. It started last week when I pulled it into, and then out of the garage.It cranks over just fine, but won't fire. I found that I had no spark. So I replaced the coil. Still no spark. I located the voltage regulator (external), and checked it for continuity...... Nothing. So I search high and low, and finding a 3 tab 12v Nippondeso regulator is not an option. I searched under rocks, and in Japan, and Finland....... They just don't seem to exist anymore. SO........ Will any 3 tab 12V. regulator work?

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Can't advise on the regulator, but if the engine is cranking then the spark problem has nothing to do with a bad regulator since you obviously still have adequate battery voltage (for now).

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A voltage regulator is pretty generic. Most are now solidstate and built into the alternator. Tractor supply houses should find one for you. 

Do  your points open and close (in distributer, under the rotor) as the engine turns over? Is there 12 v at the open point set? Is the rotor tip all pitted? Is the distribjter cap cracked or the internal contacts all pitted? Put a plug wire on the coil with plug on the end, grounded to the block. Does it fire when the engine cranks over?

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11 minutes ago, warbird said:

Put a plug wire on the coil with plug on the end, grounded to the block. Does it fire when the engine cranks over?

If not, replace the "Condenser." An absolutely critical and absolutely poorly made part.

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If it has a distributor for ignition(old tech) I would say yes, generally any 12volt regulator should work.

And if it has a distributor, that is what I would suspect for lack of spark. Bad wire from coil to distributor, bad distributor cap, bad rotor.

Is it old enough to have points and condensor?

Or does it have engine/ignition control module?

As far as regulator, though, I would tend to agree with Valis.

Warbird beat me to it......

Edited by madohe
I type reaaalllllllyyy sloooowwwwly

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It has points, condenser, rotor etc. But it's not getting power from the regulator to the coil. The ignition switch is fine (ish....It works) and I have 12v from there. It has 12v at the starter. It has 12v on the wires going in to the regulator, but not out, which is why I suspect the VR. I have a spare Distributor cap, and rotor, which I swapped, just in case, but no love. The points open and close, but no spark.

 I'll get a basic 3 pole 12v VR at the auto parts store tomorrow and see if that makes any difference.

 It's a 2 cyl water cooled 660cc engine that purred like a kitten 2 weeks ago.....

 Alas no one makes or carries cross over parts, or has OEM that I can find.

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Ignition power comes from the regulator? That makes no sense.

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600 CC engine, you may want to take a look at Kawasaki, Honda, or Suziki parts too.. the all use Nippon Denso electronic and ignition parts...  hell even the Germans are starting to use them as well

 

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Is it an '80s 'Hatsu? Aren't those Toyota 2-cyl engines, with Toyota dealership support?

I always kind of like to see Daihatsu, they're common in South America, but rare as hen's teeth here. Did you get it new?

I'm in the same spot, trying to bring my old Fiat 124 back to life at my daughter's request. I'm hoping that the internet is my friend for this ill-advised folly.

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1 hour ago, daddle said:

Ignition power comes from the regulator? That makes no sense.

No. It comes from the battery, then goes to the VR.

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1 hour ago, mikewof said:

Is it an '80s 'Hatsu? Aren't those Toyota 2-cyl engines, with Toyota dealership support?

I always kind of like to see Daihatsu, they're common in South America, but rare as hen's teeth here. Did you get it new?

I'm in the same spot, trying to bring my old Fiat 124 back to life at my daughter's request. I'm hoping that the internet is my friend for this ill-advised folly.

More like a 74..... I think.

Owned by Datsun I think, but lots of Japanese vehicles use other brand's parts. This thing (Body wise) is rusted as it gets w/o collaping under the weight of a chicken, but up until 2 weeks ago, the engine/drive train was stellar. I was thinking about making a work boat with a hydraulic ramp/bow using the dump body hydraulics when the truck body finally caved in..... But no engine means no new boat.....

It was on the property when I bought the house back in July.

 They're all over the place in the Carib (I think the guy brought it over from the DR), but the only part that vaguely fits the bill is a "New ERA" AVR from Latvia..... And I'm just not ready to send my credit card info to Latvia on purpose yet.

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2 hours ago, daddle said:

Ignition power comes from the regulator? That makes no sense.

:lol:

 

7 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:

No. It comes from the battery, then goes to the VR.

:mellow:

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17 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:

More like a 74..... I think.

Owned by Datsun I think, but lots of Japanese vehicles use other brand's parts. This thing (Body wise) is rusted as it gets w/o collaping under the weight of a chicken, but up until 2 weeks ago, the engine/drive train was stellar. I was thinking about making a work boat with a hydraulic ramp/bow using the dump body hydraulics when the truck body finally caved in..... But no engine means no new boat.....

It was on the property when I bought the house back in July.

 They're all over the place in the Carib (I think the guy brought it over from the DR), but the only part that vaguely fits the bill is a "New ERA" AVR from Latvia..... And I'm just not ready to send my credit card info to Latvia on purpose yet.

I don't know the Datsun/Nissan connection, but those two cylinder engines are Toyota. I'm pretty sure that you have the four stroke version, because if it was the two-stroke, it would be a miracle if it you were able to still start it without having done a lot of maintenance to it. It sounds like a late 1970s, early 1980s truck. Those things were amazing, dirt cheap, and they lifted the economies of entire nations back in the day. I used to see those poor things in Peru, pushed into duty far beyond what anyone designed them to do, hauling tons, literally, on daily deliveries. And that Daewoo Tico, dear heavens, they would put half a million miles on those taxis and then sell it to someone else as a bar delivery car.

And I doubt that anyone built them to last nearly 40 years on some guy's farm. You can fix the ignition system, and make your work boat, I think that's a good idea.

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32 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:
2 hours ago, daddle said:

Ignition power comes from the regulator? That makes no sense.

No. It comes from the battery, then goes to the VR.

I think you are talking about the resistor that drops the voltage to the coil, It's usually bypassed during cranking so if if did fail the engine would fire the die as soon as the key is let go.

You could bypass it with a piece of wire and run the engine for a short time just to prove it, if you run the engine for very long like this you will burn out the coil though.

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.

25 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:

?:huh:

Power for the coil should come from the ignition switch. Sometime a "ballast" resistor is in line.  The ignition switch will have a "hot" straight from the battery. The regulator may have a hot sensing lead from the battery also but I would expect that might be through a relay.

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Yanno.....

 I thought that this thing was a starter relay, but the serial number on it calls it a voltage regulator.

The coil has an external ceramic resistor.

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Magic smoke was what I was looking for when I took it apart.... Saw none, knew it wasn't Lucas Electric.

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nippondenso voltage regulator 27700-87505

 

image.png.8283c7caad088c55cbfd7ecd27576f8f.png

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1 hour ago, Mrleft8 said:

Yanno.....

 I thought that this thing was a starter relay, but the serial number on it calls it a voltage regulator.

The coil has an external ceramic resistor.

The "hot" for the ignition switch/coil may come off the battery sense of the regulator but that is convenience. Unless the regulator,is shorting it the regulator has nothing to do with spark.

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1 minute ago, warbird said:

The "hot" for the ignition switch/coil may come off the battery sense of the regulator but that is convenience. Unless the regulator,is shorting it the regulator has nothing to do with spark.

I tried jumping directly from the battery to the coil, but all I got was the VR clicking, and and some small blue sparks at the resistor terminal.... Still no power to the coil itself.

Unless the brand spanking new coil is dead, which is a possibility..... But still, why power to the ignition switch, but not to the VR?

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The voltage from the alternator goes through the VR before it gets to the coil and the distributor.... Right?.... Or am I so lost in old VW land that I'll never find my way out?

 This is why I stopped working on automotive electrics back in the early 80s.

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1 minute ago, Mrleft8 said:

I tried jumping directly from the battery to the coil, but all I got was the VR clicking, and and some small blue sparks at the resistor terminal.... Still no power to the coil itself.

Unless the brand spanking new coil is dead, which is a possibility..... But still, why power to the ignition switch, but not to the VR?

The vr is to keep battery charged. It senses line (battery) voltage and adjusts the field(?)in the alt7ernator for more or,less output

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Hmmmm..... OK I'm lost then. I thought the VR regulated the fluctuating voltage from the battery/alternator to the rest of the system to keep everything at a constant 12-14vDC, when for instance the alternator may be producing 30vDC or 8vDC.....

 

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7 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:

The voltage from the alternator goes through the VR before it gets to the coil and the distributor.... Right?.... Or am I so lost in old VW land that I'll never find my way out?

 This is why I stopped working on automotive electrics back in the early 80s.

Generally....no. The BATT connection of all three should lead back to the battery terminal (by some route). The ignition, VR, and alternator all connect to the battery. In that sense they each lead to each other, yes.

Voltage regulators come in a variety of connections. But none of them (typically) conduct the charging currents.

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Hmmmm............

 OK..... Then somehow it seems I have either a bad new coil, and/or another short in the system somewhere between the ignition switch and the VR, but not the starter motor, or battery.....

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Coils are pretyy much interchangeable for the most part. Find another in a junk yard, K mart or discount store and wire it in,  If you don't have a multi meter, use a taillight bulb and chase your 12 volts from battery bto ignition switch to coil. with  v at the coil, opening and closing your points will give a spark off the coil.

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15 minutes ago, warbird said:

Coils are pretyy much interchangeable for the most part. Find another in a junk yard, K mart or discount store and wire it in,  If you don't have a multi meter, use a taillight bulb and chase your 12 volts from battery bto ignition switch to coil. with  v at the coil, opening and closing your points will give a spark off the coil.

I have a multi meter.... I will continue the investigation...... At this point it's almost a matter of honor, but it also re-enforces why I hate dealing with old car electrical issues.... It could be a small short in the middle of a large wad of derelict wires that all look basically the same at this point. (double red spiral stripe on white, or single?..... Or is that red on yellow.....?)

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Eliminate the side issues. Jump 12v from battery + to the ballast resistor with the points open. A small piece of cardboard between points works. Now you should have 12v on the other side of the ballast, 12v at both sides of the coil and 12v at the points hot side. If not, disconnect the condensor (I think the condensor is on the hot side right?).  When all checks out, let the points close, the coil will bang out a spark of you have a plug wire and grounded plug attached to the coil out put. That is your very basic ignition system.

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1 hour ago, warbird said:

 That is your very basic ignition system.

Yet they can give a fit to diagnose...   One of the first things I do when working on an old car... is locate all the grounds, check the wiring,  clean the connections with emery cloth to bright metal and make sure the ground is solid..  Surprisingly how many times a bad ground has been the culprit to many expensive frustrating ignition problems. 

 

ignitiondiagram.gif

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4 hours ago, warbird said:

Eliminate the side issues. Jump 12v from battery + to the ballast resistor with the points open. A small piece of cardboard between points works. Now you should have 12v on the other side of the ballast, 12v at both sides of the coil and 12v at the points hot side. If not, disconnect the condensor (I think the condensor is on the hot side right?).  When all checks out, let the points close, the coil will bang out a spark of you have a plug wire and grounded plug attached to the coil out put. That is your very basic ignition system.

Getting no spark at the points, but the condenser shows connectivity.....

So..... In theory the VR is a luxury item, and isn't really needed unless I have headlights, dashboard indicators, etc? (They are all merely decorative at this point.)

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1 hour ago, Mrleft8 said:

Getting no spark at the points, but the condenser shows connectivity.....

So..... In theory the VR is a luxury item, and isn't really needed unless I have headlights, dashboard indicators, etc? (They are all merely decorative at this point.)

The VR is just there to STOP charging the battery when it is at a fully charged state.

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There is a reason why, even on the old VW, we go with electronic ignition and internally-regulated single wire alternators.

 

This is that reason.  :D

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2 hours ago, Mrleft8 said:

Getting no spark at the points, but the condenser shows connectivity.....

So..... In theory the VR is a luxury item, and isn't really needed unless I have headlights, dashboard indicators, etc? (They are all merely decorative at this point.)

That doesn't seem right?

Never was that good at auto electrics, maybe someone with a bit more experience can chime in.

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Lefty - 

The coil is analogous to a voltage transformer - it steps the car's voltage up from 12VDC to the 20-40KV necessary to send a fat burst of electricity to the spark plug.  The coil can be tested by measuring the impedance of the primary and secondary windings - there's no moving parts, it's either good or it's not (some intermittent failures are attributable to a crack in the coil's shell which, when hot, expands enough to provide a shorter path to ground for the stored voltage).   I sincerely doubt a "no spark" condition in a breaker-point ignition is attributable to a bad voltage regulator.  An electronic ignition? Perhaps - as you need 13.5 volts for it to work, and a weak battery may turn the engine over while not providing sufficient charge to fire the ignition.    I'd go look at YouTube for points igntion troubleshooting videos - I'm gonna guess bad points, or a bad condenser as the most likely culprits, a nicked igntion lead being a possible cause as well. 

 

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50 minutes ago, Figment said:

There is a reason why, even on the old VW, we go with electronic ignition and internally-regulated single wire alternators.

 

This is that reason.  :D

Sh'up Figgy.

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2 hours ago, warbird said:

The VR is just there to STOP charging the battery when it is at a fully charged state.

Ah........... OK.

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27 minutes ago, A guy in the Chesapeake said:

Lefty - 

The coil is analogous to a voltage transformer - it steps the car's voltage up from 12VDC to the 20-40KV necessary to send a fat burst of electricity to the spark plug.  The coil can be tested by measuring the impedance of the primary and secondary windings - there's no moving parts, it's either good or it's not (some intermittent failures are attributable to a crack in the coil's shell which, when hot, expands enough to provide a shorter path to ground for the stored voltage).   I sincerely doubt a "no spark" condition in a breaker-point ignition is attributable to a bad voltage regulator.  An electronic ignition? Perhaps - as you need 13.5 volts for it to work, and a weak battery may turn the engine over while not providing sufficient charge to fire the ignition.    I'd go look at YouTube for points igntion troubleshooting videos - I'm gonna guess bad points, or a bad condenser as the most likely culprits, a nicked igntion lead being a possible cause as well. 

 

Thanks............ Bad points is my guess now.... Although why they'd be fine one week, and have no go at all the next baffles me. But once again, this is why I hate old car electrical issues.....

 (And just to make my self clear..... Sh'up Figgy! ;))

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13 hours ago, floating dutchman said:

That doesn't seem right?

Never was that good at auto electrics, maybe someone with a bit more experience can chime in.

I offered. I'm not an auto elec but I did teach it.

At this stage all we know is he's got no spark, right? Where does he have no spark?

I asked if there was spark at the points. Let's start at the source and take the regulator out because it has nothing to do with it.

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21 hours ago, Mrleft8 said:

Getting no spark at the points, but the condenser shows connectivity.....

So..... In theory the VR is a luxury item, and isn't really needed unless I have headlights, dashboard indicators, etc? (They are all merely decorative at this point.)

Condenser should NOT show "connectivity" with a multimeter being used to show continuity. Checking continuity across a disconnected condenser should show an open circuit. Unfortunately the condenser could fail with either an open circuit or a short circuit.

The schematic offered above would be improved if it showed clearly that the other side of both the condenser and points are to be grounded.

The condenser is critical to operation, BTW.

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3 hours ago, daddle said:

The schematic offered above would be improved if it showed clearly that the other side of both the condenser and points are to be grounded.

In most cases doesn't the condenser and points ground out to the dizzy and then the dizzy to the chassis completing the ground?

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1 minute ago, nacradriver said:

In most cases doesn't the condenser and points ground out to the dizzy and then the dizzy to the chassis completing the ground?

Yes, so long as that is explained, all is good. I.e. The screw on the condenser mount is important. 

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15 minutes ago, daddle said:

Yes, so long as that is explained, all is good. I.e. The screw on the condenser mount is important. 

So you're saying solid clean grounds are important?  Who wouldda thunk!

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Sorry..... Thank you all for the continued input. It's all appreciated. I've had solar panel installers here all day, so I haven't had a chance to play mechanic..... (90 panels takes a lot of time).... Luckily, one of the guys was an Army motor pool mechanic, and he offered to take a look after the install job is done. I figure if anyone can Gerry rig an automotive ignition, an Army motor pool guy would be a good place to start looking.

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1 hour ago, Mrleft8 said:

Sorry..... Thank you all for the continued input. It's all appreciated. I've had solar panel installers here all day, so I haven't had a chance to play mechanic..... (90 panels takes a lot of time).... Luckily, one of the guys was an Army motor pool mechanic, and he offered to take a look after the install job is done. I figure if anyone can Gerry rig an automotive ignition, an Army motor pool guy would be a good place to start looking.

Tell us about your solar thingy...  I have been looking into this.

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if you don't love it get rid of it

if you are going to keep it for the foreseeable future, replace All parts related between the ignition switch and the sparkplugs

Problem Solved - you will never know what the problem was But it Will be Gone

or that's my approach to such problems 

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1 hour ago, DA-WOODY said:

if you don't love it get rid of it

if you are going to keep it for the foreseeable future, replace All parts related between the ignition switch and the sparkplugs

Problem Solved - you will never know what the problem was But it Will be Gone

or that's my approach to such problems 

That is the problem now-a-days...  diagnostics is a lost art with mechanics..  but I shouldn't complain... just plug in the OBDII get the code and off I go...   One of the reasons I yanked the VW engine out of my Vanagon and dropped in a Subaru 2.2. and the 45% increase in HP helps too.. 

You right Woody, the problem could go away... but what if is t doesn't? 

 

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On 11/5/2017 at 7:40 AM, Mrleft8 said:

I have an old(er) Dihatsu mini dump truck. It has myriad problems, including missing it's roof, and seats. But up until recently it started, and ran just fine. Stopping became an issue about 2 months ago, when the brakes failed spectacularly. (Nothing is as fast as a vehicle moving towards a steel post at 2MPH with the brake pedal flopping lethargically on the floor)

I semi sorted out the brake issue, and now it won't start. It started last week when I pulled it into, and then out of the garage.It cranks over just fine, but won't fire. I found that I had no spark. So I replaced the coil. Still no spark. I located the voltage regulator (external), and checked it for continuity...... Nothing. So I search high and low, and finding a 3 tab 12v Nippondeso regulator is not an option. I searched under rocks, and in Japan, and Finland....... They just don't seem to exist anymore. SO........ Will any 3 tab 12V. regulator work?

Go back and look at the crash area real hard. If the brake issue was in the engine bay make sure you didn't create the problem dragging something out or whatnot. The issue is something simple. Sometimes we get fixated on our initial diagnosis, down the rabbit hole we go and overlook the obvious. 

 

Good luck.

PA

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43 minutes ago, nacradriver said:

That is the problem now-a-days...  diagnostics is a lost art with mechanics..  but I shouldn't complain... just plug in the OBDII get the code and off I go...   One of the reasons I yanked the VW engine out of my Vanagon and dropped in a Subaru 2.2. and the 45% increase in HP helps too.. 

You right Woody, the problem could go away... but what if is t doesn't? 

 

Then it was a fuel issue and Im assumming you can tell the difference

If yoi replace all the ignition with new parts ...it will ignite like new for Long Time = 1/3 of what it needs 

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1 hour ago, Prof Anthrax said:

Go back and look at the crash area real hard. If the brake issue was in the engine bay make sure you didn't create the problem dragging something out or whatnot. The issue is something simple. Sometimes we get fixated on our initial diagnosis, down the rabbit hole we go and overlook the obvious. 

 

Good luck.

PA

The crash area was in the center of the front of a (sort of) cab over.... The engine and pretty much everything besides the non functional painted over headlights is behind the rotted out piece of plywood that serves as a seat.

 I'm not going to just junk it. It has too much character for that, and I really like the dump feature....

I'm also not going to dump $1,000 into having a parts swapper/ car mechanic tell me he can't find parts for it.

 Stubborn I am, but........ I'm sure there's a good side to that.....

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3 hours ago, nacradriver said:

Tell us about your solar thingy...  I have been looking into this.

27Kv  with 3 SA inverters (whatever that means) feed back to the power grid for overage at slightly lower than what they pay to buy from the mega power co.

That's 90 panels on a steel roof with steel framing, so no load issues as far as weight goes, and, obviously, no snow load factor here.

Signed on to the deal at cost when my wife worked for the company, before the hurricane. If we were paying retail I would have gone with more like 12-15Kw, and just zeroed out the meter..... But with the (potential) payback, it was a no brainer..... We'll see if the power co. honors their  website commitments..... I don't think they ever had a residential customer go commercial on them before, judging by my conversation this past week with their rep.

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12 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:

27Kv  with 3 SA inverters (whatever that means) feed back to the power grid for overage at slightly lower than what they pay to buy from the mega power co.

That's 90 panels on a steel roof with steel framing, so no load issues as far as weight goes, and, obviously, no snow load factor here.

Signed on to the deal at cost when my wife worked for the company, before the hurricane. If we were paying retail I would have gone with more like 12-15Kw, and just zeroed out the meter..... But with the (potential) payback, it was a no brainer..... We'll see if the power co. honors their  website commitments..... I don't think they ever had a residential customer go commercial on them before, judging by my conversation this past week with their rep.

in Kalifornia they have capped solar from all angles, no longer sell excess back (get credit only)

still have to pay a bill to G&E for electricity even if you make more than you use every month

then the permits and extra property tax (I believe)

But then again with the rates climbing Idunno

I looked into it awhile back on the Very Day a Big Incentive Ended :angry: 

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10 hours ago, DA-WOODY said:

in Kalifornia they have capped solar from all angles, no longer sell excess back (get credit only)

still have to pay a bill to G&E for electricity even if you make more than you use every month

then the permits and extra property tax (I believe)

But then again with the rates climbing Idunno

I looked into it awhile back on the Very Day a Big Incentive Ended :angry: 

Florida has been trying (with the help of DUKE et al) to make it difficult to use solar in the sunshine state. Their last attempt was to make it so you had to buy your solar installation through the power co, and the panels can only be leased through them, and you couldn't sell excess, because they owned the generated electricity. That barely didn't pass, thanks to pretzel wording in the bill that made it sound very green, and inexpensive.

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9 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:

85A5wYt73P8_jTL-P2ddDshhGHAPXvl3q6yNAicF

Nice touch with the beer can gas cap....  brings out the redneck in you.  did you accessorize with  Budweiser or Stroh's?  :lol:

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I think it's an ice tea can..... It came with the truck....

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3 hours ago, Mrleft8 said:

I think it's an ice tea can..... It came with the truck....

@'s ah Keeper

bring it back to the dealership and let the tech's put in on the computers/dyno and diagnosis it for you

for "THAT" you only need a generic schematic for Any electrical parts

Rip the fucking wiring out of it and wire it yourself and be done with it

or waste your life troubleshooting it

Who cares the problem Just make it run

or lean a piece of plywood on it and take a Pic every few years and post here 

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Finding a Daihatsu dealer around here may be an issue.....

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1 hour ago, DA-WOODY said:

@'s ah Keeper

bring it back to the dealership and let the tech's put in on the computers/dyno and diagnosis it for you

for "THAT" you only need a generic schematic for Any electrical parts

Rip the fucking wiring out of it and wire it yourself and be done with it

or waste your life troubleshooting it

Who cares the problem Just make it run

or lean a piece of plywood on it and take a Pic every few years and post here 

I'm leaning towards the rip all the wires out and start again approach, but...... I wouldn't know where to start at this point, and unless I have someone who at least pretends to know what he's doing, I'll first do no harm. I can put it under cover so it doesn't deteriorate any more if I need to. Hopefully the solar guy will know what's going on.

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15 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:

I'm leaning towards the rip all the wires out and start again approach, but...... I wouldn't know where to start at this point, and unless I have someone who at least pretends to know what he's doing, I'll first do no harm. I can put it under cover so it doesn't deteriorate any more if I need to. Hopefully the solar guy will know what's going on.

Think Generic = All the same

look for places like this http://freeshopmanual.com/downloads.php?cat_id=6

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The idiots guide was my bible for many years.....

Still should be,  I guess.

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52 minutes ago, Mrleft8 said:

The idiots guide was my bible for many years.....

Still should be,  I guess.

did'nt know if I should be happy or not that my Mother bought me a copy in my teens! - still have mine. Currently driving my 18th (& last) VW.

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14 hours ago, Mrleft8 said:

Finding a Daihatsu dealer around here may be an issue.....

Mate, the part number for points is either 19145-26060 or 19145-26010. Get them at your toyota dealer or parts store. They've used the same thing in Nippondenso distributors since day dot.

Or you could get a little bit of emery paper and give the old ones a bit of a clean. Start at the source.

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13 hours ago, Merrill Levi said:

did'nt know if I should be happy or not that my Mother bought me a copy in my teens! - still have mine. Currently driving my 18th (& last) VW.

Is that the 18th time you have said "last"?

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17 hours ago, Merrill Levi said:

dig out your John Muir book from the 'archives', turn to this page:

Still in my book shelve... Greased stained pages with bent over corners for quick reference, still smells of gasoline, and everyone once in a while a few seeds will slide out from between the pages.... it was written so easy even a 10th grader could understand it

61J1ZJE3TQL._SX359_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg

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To put yer project into perspective 

Think of trying to figure out what 1 bulb out of the 100 is not (for whatever reason) working

If it is 2, checking 1 at a time will Never find it

But if you just replace them all - when you finish they will All work

Who care the culprit/culprits 

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I need an extra set of hands and eyes to do this. I'm working on that part now.

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Just read the thread and my first thought was, perhaps your looking for help in the wrong place. The problem you have more than likely has a simple solution but unless someone has already solved it and can point you in the right direction then you are likely to try millions of "fixes" until you stumble across the right one.

Why not try posting your query here, https://minitrucktalk.com/

or here, http://en.daihatsu-club.net/model/daihatsu-hijet-extol-atrai-zebra-gran-max-14

Good luck, and do let us know how you get on.

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36 minutes ago, Ukuri said:

Just read the thread and my first thought was, perhaps your looking for help in the wrong place. The problem you have more than likely has a simple solution but unless someone has already solved it and can point you in the right direction then you are likely to try millions of "fixes" until you stumble across the right one.

Why not try posting your query here, https://minitrucktalk.com/

or here, http://en.daihatsu-club.net/model/daihatsu-hijet-extol-atrai-zebra-gran-max-14

Good luck, and do let us know how you get on.

bulb 63 is not in all the way & bulb 75 is burnt out

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11 hours ago, Mrleft8 said:

I need an extra set of hands and eyes to do this. I'm working on that part now.

What? If you've got six dicks you might need another pair of hands.

This should be pretty simple shit for a clever guy like you.

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On 11/8/2017 at 4:22 PM, Merrill Levi said:

dig out your John Muir book from the 'archives', turn to this page:

vw%20craps%20out.jpg

Ah yes,  I had that one and the Honda one too.  Both were brilliant.  My favorite art from it was in the Honda book where the octopus was doing a valve job ... four valves at a a time.

 

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Was that really R. Crumb art work, or one of his many assistants?

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When Muir finished writing the Idiots guide:

Quote

he recruited Taos-based artist Peter Aschwanden to illustrate the text with whimsical, R. Crumb-inspired drawings. It was a perfect pairing, like Hunter S. Thompson and Ralph Steadman, and helped cement the book’s countercultural appeal.

full article c/- Cal Alumni.

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I got the '75 Spider loaded and back home, but moving 1700 lbs. of dead weight isn't easy, even getting it off the carrier is a pita. Hopefully that won't take too long with the mass of one of my other vehicles and a come-along. Then pull it uphill into my garage into the third bay, tell the wife a lie that it won't be there too long, and then use Chef Boothie's recipe for bringing old Italian cars back to life ...

2csfm0g.jpg

Amazingly, even after over 25 years of storage, there was no rubber rot that I could see. If Booth could bring back those old WWII jeeps, this oughta be a cakewalk.

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btw, here's Chef Booth's tried and proven method, in case anyone else needs it, copyright Rick. (That guy is a poet, I wish he edited shop manuals.)

 

Pull plugs (after air compressing/blowing all the dirt and crap off) and pour about three/four ounces of thin motor oil down each hole. Let it marinade for at LEAST a day before doing anything else. Then figure out which socket you need on the crank shaft pulley bolt and SLOWLY give her a couple/3/4spins to make sure that nothing's bound up or frozen. If it sounds clean and clear then spray something like WD-40 down each cylinder and hit the starter a few times to listen for possibly something else sticking----helps to have a friend listening under the hood for ya too. If all us good then you can put the new plugs in (NO frickin stupid shit like split tipped or Iridiums----just the latest version of the stock plug numbers. Then STOP before you try to get her run-----'cuz now you want to work on the cooling system. Drain and flush the hell out it----with the engine OFF!. Spend seven bucks on the yellow Prestone flushing kit and read the instructions thoroughly. What you want to do is use a garden hose to carefully flush out every piece of crap in the block and passages. Flush in one direction, then figure out to back flush it in the other direction. Good chance your thermostat is now fuked so plan accordingly before you get too excited. Get the correct temp one and a new gasket and then spend $18.00 on a 7 ounce can of Permatex's The Right Stuff gasket sealer. Best invention since they started putting vaginas on women. 

After flushing everything out you can from the cooling system and replacing the t-stat, then drain the oil and replace with cheap dino stuff....and a cheap filter, 'cuz you're only put MAYBE one hour max on the engine before you do this again with better stuff the second time around. Use WIX, Baldwin, NAPA Gold, Motocraft or perhaps AC Delco filter then. NO FRAM F'ng ANYTHING! Ever!

Don't trust the dash gauges completely as the engine finally comes back to life and runs----hopefully. Unless they're old school VDO's. The thirty dollar H/Freight infared-laser temp thing works beautifully. Point it at different areas of wherever the coolant maybe going. Your biggest first issue will probably be an air bubble in the cooling system, which means you'll have to learn how to burp it probably. It'll need to be done so school yourself on this one. 
Oil pressure? That's a tuff one without hooking up a new or a tested used mechanical gauge. Just please pay attention on this part and if you sense ANYTHING wrong, kill the switch immediately. That kind of damage can not be undone.

I'll think of more shit later, but this oughta getcha thinking.....

(Oh yeah, after your final cooling system flush (may wanna do it at least twice), the only water that goes in that radiator is DISTILLED water. Trust me, it's cheap and WELL worth it)...

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3 hours ago, mikewof said:

I got the '75 Spider loaded and back home, but moving 1700 lbs. of dead weight isn't easy, even getting it off the carrier is a pita. Hopefully that won't take too long with the mass of one of my other vehicles and a come-along. Then pull it uphill into my garage into the third bay, tell the wife a lie that it won't be there too long, and then use Chef Boothie's recipe for bringing old Italian cars back to life ...

2csfm0g.jpg

Amazingly, even after over 25 years of storage, there was no rubber rot that I could see. If Booth could bring back those old WWII jeeps, this oughta be a cakewalk.

Mine was a '74.  You had to work on it three nights a week if you wanted to drive it on the weekends.

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On 11/8/2017 at 10:35 AM, Mrleft8 said:

Finding a Daihatsu dealer around here may be an issue.....  85A5wYt73P8_jTL-P2ddDshhGHAPXvl3q6yNAicF

Other kinds of dealers, easy peasy.  

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1 hour ago, Owen said:

Other kinds of dealers, easy peasy.  

Image result for la drug dealers

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