Throatwarbler-Mangrove

Westerbeke 55C Oil Pressure Switch

Recommended Posts

Dealing with bad engineering, need ideas.

Westerbeke 55 has a low oil pressure switch, in addition to the oil pressure gauge sender. It's wired to set off an alarm (good) and kill the fuel lift pump (not-so-good).

The electrical contacts are two male spade lugs, potted into the end of the switch.  They connect to the wiring harness through female spade connectors. Engine vibration causes the wiring harness to bend the spade lugs side-to-side until failure. We've gone through two in two seasons.

image.png.74bb55b4d09fbf9dd3fe01698280e1d6.png

Any thoughts on strain relief?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wedge a piece of high density foam between the terminals with a dab of glue to keep it there. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

gee...lengthen the cables then put a proper strain relief clamp down in the circuit .  

 

Or puchase a 90 degree pipe elbow..male female .....that moves the sending unit closer to the cable end 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^^ take the strain off the tabs! Better wire routing, & 'pigtail' the last two inches. (that's a tight spiral in the wire, like old phone cable. Wrap the wire tightly around a pencil to create)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, longy said:

^^ take the strain off the tabs! Better wire routing, & 'pigtail' the last two inches. (that's a tight spiral in the wire, like old phone cable. Wrap the wire tightly around a pencil to create)

What he said. Take the strain off the cables then secure so they can't vibrate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks!

There really is no place on the engine block to secure those wires to, short of drilling and tapping. I'll look a little harder, but.... I do like the pigtail idea. The high density foam idea makes sense if I can source fire-resistant material (McMaster-Carr, if it exists).  Also thought about a tapered boot over the body of the switch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Route the cable in a  "U" back to the sender and cable tie it to the sender body, then another "U" off to the harness.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m having similar problem but mine is specific to the switch. I have a universal M25 XPB. 12 volts go into the switch but only~ 4.5 going out to the lift pump. I put this switch in last year and it worked fine for a season. Do they go bad that quickly?

is there a test I can do on the switch to make sure it truly is the switch?  I tracked this back by checking voltage at the lift pump which was 4.5 then working backward. Real crappy location to get at. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On December 6, 2017 at 9:23 AM, Throatwarbler-Mangrove said:

Dealing with bad engineering, need ideas.

Westerbeke 55 has a low oil pressure switch, in addition to the oil pressure gauge sender. It's wired to set off an alarm (good) and kill the fuel lift pump (not-so-good).

The electrical contacts are two male spade lugs, potted into the end of the switch.  They connect to the wiring harness through female spade connectors. Engine vibration causes the wiring harness to bend the spade lugs side-to-side until failure. We've gone through two in two seasons.

image.png.74bb55b4d09fbf9dd3fe01698280e1d6.png

Any thoughts on strain relief?

I was 3 seasons in when mine failed the same way. Maybe WB should come up with a fix. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now