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D.M.D.

PropGlide vs. Velox

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Really looking for a anti foalling prop coating that will protect for at least the summer. Sailing in N.J., Barnegat Bay, in brakish water.  Have only had limited success with Tri-Lux 33 or Petit Barnacle Protector. Any info on PropGlide or Velox and how it works in real life would be greatly appreciated...Thanks... 

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Ive been using velox for years.   Max prop...It works.  Cheap and cheerful.

 

the expensive stuff also works...your choice

 

the secret to painting bronze is surface prep and primer. Follow the directions 

is you go with the expensive stuff like prop speed , sandblast the prop.

with velox use a random orbital with 60 grit..prepare and immediatly prime 

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I've had very bad luck with Velox.  The past season I did in ideal conditions to letter of the instructions.  It sucked.  Worse than Tri-Lux.

YMMV

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Propspeed is the number one, and there's a reason for it.

I'll tell you a little secret that is not a secret at all: ALL props cavitate. And cavitation destroys everything, including Propspeed, the good news is that nothing grows in cavitation conditions so that part of the prop is well protected from growth. But what happens to the areas nearby? 

Paint (such as Velox) will crack and break into pieces much larger than the cavitation area so it will fall in "flakes" leaving a lot of areas without any protection. What people do is put a lot of coatings (making the prop a lot less efficient in the process) but this only works for a short time. Also, antifouling works but releasing biocides to the water, and these, apart from being enviromentally dangerous last only so long on the very fast moving surface of a prop. Plus, regulations in some places like the USA and the EU have been baning mayi of its components through the last years. So Velox and other standard antifouling paints are a no go.

Silicone peels off (like human skin when sunburnt) so when it breaks under cavitation, the damage will extend to the rest of the prop. This is what happens to the many Propspeed imitation products that have popped around in the last years (PropOne (formerly Propgold), Pellermax, Propglide...) these are just cheaply made imitation products, (some made by former Propspeed employees from their living rooms...) 

Why doesn't Propspeed peel off? Because the way it's applied, if done correctly, makes it impossible since the primer is mixed with the topcoat.

Just looking at the application instructions will give you a clue if the product is good or not.

 

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chuso007..Thanks for the detailed response. I HAVE used propspeed and have had success with that product. I agreee, it works the best. I was hoping some of these new "knockoffs" worked, but as I suspected, they do not. Propspeed is $$$$ and I was looking for a less expensive alternative...but No Thanks to snake oil.   

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Yeah, Propspeed can be expensive for certain tipes of boats, It's cheap for big motor boats because they get their money back in fuel, but for low comsumption motor boats and small sailboats, it gets pricy...

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I used prop speed...very expensive to purchase and to apply.  The result was good...two years.

But the price was over the top.  

 

I can use cheap velox and gaurentee a one year clean cycle.on my max prop .

 

it is possible that my area of operation and  prop hour use favors the  cheap solution 

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Why doesn't Propspeed peel off? Because the way it's applied, if done correctly, makes it impossible since the primer is mixed with the topcoat.

Been using Propspeed for more than 10 years... I've never heard of the topcoat being mixed with the etch primer... it's a two-part etch and single part topcoat...

 

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44 minutes ago, charisma94 said:

Why doesn't Propspeed peel off? Because the way it's applied, if done correctly, makes it impossible since the primer is mixed with the topcoat.

Been using Propspeed for more than 10 years... I've never heard of the topcoat being mixed with the etch primer... it's a two-part etch and single part topcoat...

 

Yes, but the top coat goes on the primer when it's still fresh enough to be reacting, liberating Hydrogen micro bubbles that make little "holes" (capillaries). The top coat will fill those holes and then create a "matrix" structure  not a layered structure. I probably didn't express myself right, sorry about that.

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On 12/12/2017 at 2:48 AM, chuso007 said:

Yes, but the top coat goes on the primer when it's still fresh enough to be reacting, liberating Hydrogen micro bubbles that make little "holes" (capillaries). The top coat will fill those holes and then create a "matrix" structure  not a layered structure. I probably didn't express myself right, sorry about that.

Hi my friend how did you come to this conclusion? Did a propspeed employee tell you that or you work for them?Propspeed silicone has an adhesion promoter like most sealants and caulkings, the aminosilane has reactive amine groups that react with the free hydroxyls of the etching primer, aminosilane forms complexes with tin catalyst but they use alkyltitanate catalyst maybe it doesn't form coordination complex like tin but judging by the 2% it does and it messes their gel time . The etching primer has phosphoric acid that reacts with copper and zinc of the brass forming phosphates and releasing hydrogen gas.

The secret to propspeed is to put the silicone at the exact time that the etching primer is wet enough so that there are free hydroxyl groups and the aminosilane can interact with them but not too liquid so that the silicone touches the metal because it has little  adhesion to it. I'm developing a product that requires no magic gel time but it's harder to make than propspeed so you will have to wait some time.

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10 hours ago, Ecotek said:

Hi my friend how did you come to this conclusion? Did a propspeed employee tell you that or you work for them?Propspeed silicone has an adhesion promoter like most sealants and caulkings, the aminosilane has reactive amine groups that react with the free hydroxyls of the etching primer, aminosilane forms complexes with tin catalyst but they use alkyltitanate catalyst maybe it doesn't form coordination complex like tin but judging by the 2% it does and it messes their gel time . The etching primer has phosphoric acid that reacts with copper and zinc of the brass forming phosphates and releasing hydrogen gas.

The secret to propspeed is to put the silicone at the exact time that the etching primer is wet enough so that there are free hydroxyl groups and the aminosilane can interact with them but not too liquid so that the silicone touches the metal because it has little  adhesion to it. I'm developing a product that requires no magic gel time but it's harder to make than propspeed so you will have to wait some time.

Let me know when you have it. I'd love to try it.

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