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Sebastien972

Exterior house paint on hull top sides + floor clear gloss polyurethane for protection and shine?

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Hello everyone, I am looking to repaint the top sides of an old 40' racer/cruiser and I am on a tight budget (overwhelmed with other costly repairs following a storm). Seeing the price of marine paints containing polyurethane like Awlgrip or Pettit and their very high costs, I thought about having a decent exterior house paint like Behr Premium Plus Ultra for $30 a gallon for two coats and then finish off with a layer of clear gloss water base polyurethane commonly used for floors to give it good protection and a great shine for another $30 a gallon. I know it's not ideal and I should probably save up for Awlgrip, but considering  that's not an option, could that potentially work? Thanks for your input!

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9 minutes ago, Sebastien972 said:

Hello everyone, I am looking to repaint the top sides of an old 40' racer/cruiser and I am on a tight budget (overwhelmed with other costly repairs following a storm). Seeing the price of marine paints containing polyurethane like Awlgrip or Pettit and their very high costs, I thought about having a decent exterior house paint like Behr Premium Plus Ultra for $30 a gallon for two coats and then finish off with a layer of clear gloss water base polyurethane commonly used for floors to give it good protection and a great shine for another $30 a gallon. I know it's not ideal and I should probably save up for Awlgrip, but considering  that's not an option, could that potentially work? Thanks for your input!

if ya wanna save a heap just Oil it

go behind any Taco or Auto Parts Joint and load-up outtada bin

coat and repeat and repeat and repeat as needed

 

Buy an ad

if yer that cheep ya aint gut a wife w bOObz we wanna sea

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Follow the Huck Finn school of fence painting and you'll be a sippin' lemonade in no time at all!

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Could it potentially work? Sure, it's paint, it will do what paint does. Briefly. Cheap-out if you want to have a pretty horrific job getting it off and doing it again properly next year. Here's an idea, why not buy a bunch of vinyl self-adhesive bathroom tiles and cover it all in that, you could shingle the top of the cabin while you're at it.

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Find a friend with a marine business who will buy you one part ez poxy. Wholesale price should be - $75 a gallon. Very easy roll and tip. 71ccJnIsDkL._SL1500_.jpg

If you decide to go cheaper... I have found rustoleum enamel paints quite durable.  In many places under 30 a gallon and has a gloss factor which holds 3 years in California sun and environmental exposures including salt, higher levels of petroleum particulates In the air and serious wear & tear. A Citruis based paint stripper makes easier removal if you want to change the paint or decide that the color isn't right.  In the end - a workmanlike finish has upsides rarely discussed because it means good tradesmen miss out on nice paydays. If you aren't entering a boat show and don't mind the subtle art of making it look decent at 15 feet... who really cares if it protects the hull and cabin as well as keeps water penetrating any substraight. 

 

 

 

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Rustoleum. 1/4” nap roller and foam brushes. Put a little Flotrol or other oil paint additive to help it flow to a smooth gloss finish. No poly, it will yellow and possibly delaminate. You can wet sand with 400 then 800 grit and buff the topsides every couple of years until you have enough money to buy another boat that will require more work.

What is the boat make anyway? Don’t want you to put too much lipstick on if she’s not a pig!

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Exterior house paint is durable paint.  A million fishing boats use it . Any clear coat is a waste of time.

painting is very labour, material  and time expensive.....paint is cheap..even the expensive  stuff.

The awlgrip system..primer and topcoat is very durable and easy to work with 

you can save a bit by using an off brand.

i ve used several off brands...mixed results.

awlgrip has always produced professional  results for me

 

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6 hours ago, Sebastien972 said:

Hello everyone, I am looking to repaint the top sides of an old 40' racer/cruiser and I am on a tight budget (overwhelmed with other costly repairs following a storm). Seeing the price of marine paints containing polyurethane like Awlgrip or Pettit and their very high costs, I thought about having a decent exterior house paint like Behr Premium Plus Ultra for $30 a gallon for two coats and then finish off with a layer of clear gloss water base polyurethane commonly used for floors to give it good protection and a great shine for another $30 a gallon. I know it's not ideal and I should probably save up for Awlgrip, but considering  that's not an option, could that potentially work? Thanks for your input!

I sailled withe a guye didde thisse worked oute fine, pretty much newe coate every yeare.  No polley needid  It wase driveway billte, plywood boate.  In my experience, Behr stuff suckes.  Goode luck.                     :)

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Appliance epoxy might work, painted a boom with it and it has held-up as good or better than the paint on the mast, no chalking either. Heard it here on SA and tried it.

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If you can't afford a couple of gallons of decent paint then you can't afford to own a sailboat.

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Lowe's exterior latex paint is designed for boats too. Valspar.

You can probably borrow some from your local paint disposal/recycling location.

Seriously, if you want help, post a pic of the boat. If you're dealing with chalky gel coat, you might not be at the panic paint it with house paint stage yet.

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Is this a gelcoated fiberglass substrate?

If so then don't waste your time. Clean it with good cleanwr followed by oxalic acid. Then neutalize and polish. Don't put anything on it other than linear 2part or gelcoat. People hate shitty paint on fiberglass. You might as welk own wood if you have shitty paint. 

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1 hour ago, Somebody Else said:

Contact Reid! I don't know how closely he monitors this, but his "beyond 100 days" website has a contact email form:

http://beyond1000days.com/contact/

I think he used house paint on the schooner Anne.

 

Pseriously? Hot Rod - He studied 1,00+ designs.

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I have used gloss poly based paving paint in the past, on a dynel epoxy surface

Roll and tip, use a little thinner to match the consistency to the outside temperature.

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Rustoleum makes pretty cheap yacht enamel that gets pretty good reviews. That said, the actual can of paint is such a tiny expense in this operation..............if THAT is the tipping point of your budget, assuming the boat is fiberglass just forget it. It won't rust :rolleyes:

* I will admit a test paint in the head using glass white "porch paint", designed to be wet, has worked great. That is over wood inside the boat though.

If you go ahead and paint the boat with house paint, do NOT clearcoat it. A bigger mess to get back off I cannot imagine.

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I've used moors impervo oil based paints, thier water based enamel and rustoleum also. 

Had ok luck with the moor brands. The water based paint should be used a few inches above the waterline. Don't use it for ocean going boats subject to being heeled for days on end. Plus you'll have to remove it before painting with a higher quality paint.  I would really just use Brightside yacht paint. Look for it on eBay or something. Or regelcoat the hull. 

 

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17 minutes ago, Ixneigh said:

... Or regelcoat the hull. 

 

Perhaps you can explain to us how to do that simply and cheaply.  

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Sweet bunch here.......  But- Rustoleum is great paint.  You can add a urethane converter to it that makes it into a semi-urethane, extremely hard and durable, so much so that it can be wet sanded and buffed to a mirror shine.  Downside is it's slow to cure- need a nice warm day, and you need to start as soon as the dew is off.  Stinks.  Pretty toxic with the hardener in it- wear a good vapor respirator.  I would seriously consider using it on any boat as unlike the fancy stuff it can be repaired and gets you 80% of the shine/durability at 10% of the cost- or less.  $30/gallon for the paint, a bit less for the hardener and some acetone to thin it.   https://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625-Enamel-Hardener-oz/dp/B000LNY1MY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513584254&sr=8-1&keywords=enamel+hardener

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10 hours ago, Ishmael said:

Just brick the fucker.

barco_tijolos.jpg

I know ferrocement construction can be seaworthy, but that's taking it just a skosh too far, don't you think? 

Prep work is far and away the most important and hardest part of the painting, and if you prep the topsides properly you may remove enough oxidation and dirt to find your gelcoat doesn't look bad at all, in which case you polish it as per advice above (and maybe search the Fixit forum for tips. Srsly.)  

A decent random orbital sander is worth the expense.  Sanding by hand will leave marks, used right the ROS leaves fewer marks and facilitates polishing.

I'm hesitant to use housepaint on any portion of a boat's hull.  If you have to paint, Rustoleum Topside Paint is pretty good at the price point but it produces a rough and ready finish unless you spend tons of time polishing.  I used it on my older cheaper boat and it was fine; my newer, nicer 35 foot cruiser racer is going to get one of the higher quality marine paints, like the Petit easypoxy.  It might make more sense to just clean and polish for now, unless all the things affecting safety, rigging and boat operations (sails?) are in top notch condition. 

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On 12/16/2017 at 12:15 AM, Sebastien972 said:

Hello everyone, I am looking to repaint the top sides of an old 40' racer/cruiser and I am on a tight budget (overwhelmed with other costly repairs following a storm). Seeing the price of marine paints containing polyurethane like Awlgrip or Pettit and their very high costs, I thought about having a decent exterior house paint like Behr Premium Plus Ultra for $30 a gallon for two coats and then finish off with a layer of clear gloss water base polyurethane commonly used for floors to give it good protection and a great shine for another $30 a gallon. I know it's not ideal and I should probably save up for Awlgrip, but considering  that's not an option, could that potentially work? Thanks for your input!

geez how bad does a boat have to look to consider doing this?? I think the rustoleum suggested is a much better option! That latex is not going to adhere well to the current surface and it is going to start peeling up in no time. The polyurethane would not hold up well at all either. 

Is there any clear coat left? Might be able to compound and wax it. please post a pic.

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On 12/16/2017 at 2:41 PM, fastyacht said:

Is this a gelcoated fiberglass substrate?

If so then don't waste your time. Clean it with good cleanwr followed by oxalic acid. Then neutalize and polish. Don't put anything on it other than linear 2part or gelcoat. People hate shitty paint on fiberglass. You might as welk own wood if you have shitty paint. 

For the record, I gelcoat gelcoated topsides and use one part paints on wooden hulls. 

I didn’t want to recommend that he buys a $500 Mirka ceros 6” sander with vacuum attachment and wet sand the surface with 400,800 then buff with 3m Gelcoat compound and a variable speed 9” buffer with a wool bonnet seeing as he’s on a tight budget. The Rustoleum should protect the boat until a new owner can remove it and gelcoat it.:)

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On 12/16/2017 at 6:36 PM, kent_island_sailor said:

Rustoleum makes pretty cheap yacht enamel that gets pretty good reviews. That said, the actual can of paint is such a tiny expense in this operation..............if THAT is the tipping point of your budget, assuming the boat is fiberglass just forget it. It won't rust :rolleyes:

* I will admit a test paint in the head using glass white "porch paint", designed to be wet, has worked great. That is over wood inside the boat though.

If you go ahead and paint the boat with house paint, do NOT clearcoat it. A bigger mess to get back off I cannot imagine.

Most of my family used gray porch paint to do the decks and interior of our workboats.  It wasn't pretty, wasn't intended to last long, touch up was easy, as draggin' crab pots across the decks every day is kinda rough on any finish.  

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