lela51

New Headliner

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Looking to replace the vinyl headliner on my Cal 33-2.  It has delaminated from the hardboard liner and is sagging down in multiple places.  I have re glued with spray adhesive but it is not holding up.  Am considering a white coated hardboard from the home center.  Cut it to fit and secure with teak battens.   Has anyone tried this or are there better ways to go with this?  Would also like to replace the padded vinyl liner on the cabin house with the same material.  It's unfinished fiberglass under all  the vinyl.      

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I'd be inclined to get thin, stiffish foam - like a yoga mat - wrap panels of it with fabric of choice and stick it in place with Velcro.

image.png.67e232f66b4c2f82763d5767ec298fc7.png

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If your headliner is/was padded with a layer of foam, what happens is that the foam layer eventually degrades to dust. Just spraying it with 3M 77 (or whatever) isn't going to work unless you completely remove or replace the 'dead' foam from both substrates.

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You can get extruded PVC board from build centers that can go up without worrying about rot. Soñadora did his Baba 30 with it and it looked great.

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Formica/Laminex with battens is lightweight, thin, easy to clean, comes in a large range of colours and is damn near indestructible.

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This is what I did with my boat to replace damaged ply linings. The white lining is called "wallart" and is like laminate, but about 3 mm thick and is normally used as a decorative wall finish for bathrooms and other wet areas. Not overly cheap but looks good and is indestructible with regards to wet and damp (we lined the sides with it as well).

 

 

lining.jpg

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Dont know your application 

 

google KeKU  panel components 

https://www.hafele.co.uk/INTERSHOP/web/WFS/Haefele-HUK-Site/en_GB/-/GBP/ViewParametricSearch-SimpleOfferSearch?SearchType=all&SearchTerm=Keku+ 

 

  These are  very commonly used to fix solid panel, plywood,  headliners in place 

 

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What Fishmeal said.

It's available in 3/4", 1/2" and 1/4" thickness, but any woodworking shop can plane it.

Azek is a popular brand.

Hang with velcro.

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11 hours ago, Diamond Jim said:

What Fishmeal said.

It's available in 3/4", 1/2" and 1/4" thickness, but any woodworking shop can plane it.

Azek is a popular brand.

Hang with velcro.

:lol:

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IMO the greatest thing since sliced bread is 3mm expanded PVC sheet, comes in 4x8 foot. I got it at Sabic Plastics in NOLA. Easy to work with, can heat and mold to curves, and keeps clean easily. Installed mine with screws. 

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Tayana 37: I ripped out all the shit (after fixing all the deck hardware leaks) and used sheets of Formica to replace the old rotten moldy plywood headliner in our boat.

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The builder did my headliner using an expanded plastic product - PVC I think, about 3/16" thick. He grooved it on a table saw for appearance then stuck it up (with Velcro!) to battens epoxied to the overhead. That leaves space for wiring, hardware nuts, etc. It came out pretty well I think. The Velcro works great, its easy to peel one of these down to access whatever is there, and just as easy to put it back. It will never rot, nor does it retain moisture like some foam and fabric treatments.

 

Interior1_Small.jpg

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29 minutes ago, DDW said:

The builder did my headliner using an expanded plastic product - PVC I think, about 3/16" thick. He grooved it on a table saw for appearance then stuck it up (with Velcro!) to battens epoxied to the overhead. That leaves space for wiring, hardware nuts, etc. It came out pretty well I think. The Velcro works great, its easy to peel one of these down to access whatever is there, and just as easy to put it back. It will never rot, nor does it retain moisture like some foam and fabric treatments.

 

Interior1_Small.jpg

Dude, BEAUTIFUL.  Velcro or not, that looks really f'ing nice. 

I love the bead board headliners.  Gives the boat a classic look.  Takes a skilled craftsman to line up all those groves between ceiling battens, but it looks like your guy did it right.

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JonB, no problems with velcro in the right situation. My '77 Tayana 37 is all screw and glue headliner with laminated teak and spruce battens.  If I could use velcro in my boat I certainly would.  It would for sure make it a shit load easier to access the nuts and backing plates for all the deck hardware.  I modified mine, but it's still a royal bitch to take it all down to add a clutch, a pad-eye, or a winch.

I guess I'm just a bit jealous, that's all.....

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The easy removal to access fasteners is what I like about it. I actually prefer exposed fasteners and backing plates - that "tech" look appeals to me if it's neatly installed.

One of the members here (Ish?) had a really nice use of Velcro to hold down the access panel to instruments mounted on the aft face of the cabin - nice teak box but the main back panel of it just peeled off for access. Couldn't tell when everything was in place as it looked like a fully "joinered" box.

As to material for a finished overhead, I prefer the wrapped foam over hard surfaces because I'm over 6' so I have to watch my head on most boats - that little bit of foam & fabric really softens the blows.

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2 hours ago, SloopJonB said:

As to material for a finished overhead, I prefer the wrapped foam over hard surfaces because I'm over 6' so I have to watch my head on most boats - that little bit of foam & fabric really softens the blows.

I'm only 5' 16", but my boat has 7' headroom so I clear. :) But one problem with low headroom, no headliner, and exposed fasteners is cleaning up the blood from scalp wounds.  Acorn nuts help, but don't eliminate that problem.

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46 minutes ago, DDW said:

I'm only 5' 16", but my boat has 7' headroom so I clear. :) But one problem with low headroom, no headliner, and exposed fasteners is cleaning up the blood from scalp wounds.  Acorn nuts help, but don't eliminate that problem.

This is where sex nuts (barrel nuts) are really worth the initial hassle of getting the bolt lengths spot on.

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On 12/29/2017 at 11:47 AM, SloopJonB said:

The easy removal to access fasteners is what I like about it. I actually prefer exposed fasteners and backing plates - that "tech" look appeals to me if it's neatly installed.

One of the members here (Ish?) had a really nice use of Velcro to hold down the access panel to instruments mounted on the aft face of the cabin - nice teak box but the main back panel of it just peeled off for access. Couldn't tell when everything was in place as it looked like a fully "joinered" box.

As to material for a finished overhead, I prefer the wrapped foam over hard surfaces because I'm over 6' so I have to watch my head on most boats - that little bit of foam & fabric really softens the blows.

McWrhF0.jpg

I still haven't filled those holes.

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On 12/22/2017 at 8:26 PM, Ishmael said:

You can get extruded PVC board from build centers that can go up without worrying about rot. Soñadora did his Baba 30 with it and it looked great.

Eh.... extruded PVC / foamed PVC can dent fairly easily.  High heels or similar may be a problem if used on the ceiling.

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13 hours ago, IStream said:

Any boat-porn director knows that.

They aren't getting very good talent. They are supposed to hang on to their shoes in situations like that, keep them close to the ears and nobody gets hurt.

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14 hours ago, Ishmael said:

They aren't getting very good talent. They are supposed to hang on to their shoes in situations like that, keep them close to the ears and nobody gets hurt.

close but not too close as they can and do scratch

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59 minutes ago, 167149 said:

close but not too close as they can and do scratcho replace

I've had to repl several panels, one in the main saloon. Life is good.

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