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Bearley

Tasar Specs

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Hello,

 

Can someone provide the (rough) dimensions of a Tasar centerboard and rudder? I'm thinking height, width, and depth (thickness).

 

Thanks

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I have one--next time i go to my storage facility I will try to remember to take measurements . Are you planning to  build your own?

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Hi Ed,

Yes, I'm planing to build both the centerboard and rudder from layers of high-density plywood. I adopted a '95 Tasar....literally the hull only. I'm hoping to put some kind of mutt sailboat together. Purist I'm not, nor do I have unlimited funds, so we'll see what happens.

 

Bob

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Bearly - I suggest you see if you can buy that daggerboard from Edward M. Tasars are great boats, and one of the reasons is the foils design and shape. Shaving a hunk of plywood is less than ideal. And don't try to make your own sails either...

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re: Tasar daggerboard--  Sorry for the ambiguity---when I said I have one--I meant I have a Tasar (complete). I could'nt sell sell my daggerboard even if Bearly wanted it because then I would have to build one  to replace it -and I'd rather not. Bearley you have a gigantic task ahead of you to turn that hull into a usuable sailboat. I understand that your're not a purist (neither am I ) but I hope you're not going to be disapointed in the result.The building of a reasonably functional daggerboard and rudder while not easy, can be done--but that is the least of your problems.The mast, sails and rigging are, in my experience, the majority of the cost in a sailboat. If you purchase those items youre going to find you could have purchased a good used boat--( not necessarily a tasar) for less money. I've cobbled boats together out of various parts several times and I have  been most sucessful when I have an intact rig (mast, boom and sails) even if I had to build the entire hull itself. I would say if you have just the hull you have about 5% of a sailboat.

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I'm also putting, or rather trying to put a Tasar together myself. Between having to get new sails and bunches of rigging bits, all spendy because class specific hardware just IS that way, it's another fucking sailboat money pit.

I SHOULD have known better but I'm not too bright when it comes to boats. It should be a fun little boat when it's finished. If I ever finish.

Tune in to the next exciting episode of Stupid Is As Stupid Does.
 

 

 

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Thanks for all the warnings and other suggestions.

Ed, if you could just send along the height and width of the dagger-board blade, and rudder,  I'll be good to go. I do have the thicknesses of both. I also have a pattern for a NACA foil that I intend to use. Thanks for your help.

Bob

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Hey Bearley--Just got back from my storage facility (had to do a batten pocket repair) and I have your measurements: Rudder--from the bottom of the blade to the top of the rudder head is 37 & 3/8". Width of rudder at the waterline is 7 & 7/8 tapering down to 6 & 1/2 at the bottom. Daggerboard: total length is 52 & 13/16".Width is 11 & 1/4 at the top tapering down to 6 & 1/12" at the bottom. If you have time, I would be interested if you could post photos of the finished product. Good luck with your project and if I can help in any other way  just let me Know.   

Ed 

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Hey Ed,

Thanks very much for doing that - I really appreciate it. I will definitely post pics of the finished products (maybe some in-progress ones, too).

Thanks again,

Bob

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Just realized you're in Manchester NH.  I'm in Spofford NH. Since I've got so much work to do on my Tasar I won't be using my blades for a bit. Wanna borrow them to use as precise templates? If you SWEAR to return them promptly. I hate lending stuff out and then having to chase it later. Let me know.

 

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Hi RB,

Thanks for the offer. How about If I bring some cardboard and trace them at your place? Then you won't have to worry, and I'll save a second two-hour round trip?

If OK, what's your schedule like?

Bob

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Plywood is a pretty poor core for new blades. About the only thing it has going for it is that you can use the glue lines to roughly keep a picture of the profile shaping.  For uncored foils its even worse. The only way its strong enough is if you have a basically unshaped foil with just a bit of shaping on the edges, and they are horrible.

Have a read of this.

http://www.uk-cherub.org/doku.php/tech/foils

If you don't want to get into glass sheathing a foil then use strips of hardwood as described for a cedar core.

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On 1/21/2018 at 10:36 AM, JimC said:

Plywood is a pretty poor core for new blades. About the only thing it has going for it is that you can use the glue lines to roughly keep a picture of the profile shaping.  For uncored foils its even worse. The only way its strong enough is if you have a basically unshaped foil with just a bit of shaping on the edges, and they are horrible.

Have a read of this.

http://www.uk-cherub.org/doku.php/tech/foils

If you don't want to get into glass sheathing a foil then use strips of hardwood as described for a cedar core.

Bearley borrowed my Tasar blades to use as proper templates.

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I have found another method for making rudder and centerboard cores using sections of Western red cedar that are ripped and epoxied back together. I am also planning on wrapping the finished products in fiberglass.

Thanks again, RB for the loan of the blades.

Drove to upstate NY and back yesterday to pickup a trailer kit. Talk about putting the cart before the horse!

B.

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