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martin.langhoff

Harken Carbo Becket Pin Removal

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I have a Harken Carbo triple block with a becket, picture below from Harken website. The becket pin seems to be fixed.

Can it be removed cleanly? If so, how? The relevant Harken manuals don't say a thing about it.

I have a line spliced into it, but I'd like to try a different line, without destroying the splice nor the becket pin.

4db0a50e-5daf-4240-9679-3f70874eb984_lar

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5 hours ago, martin.langhoff said:

I have a Harken Carbo triple block with a becket, picture below from Harken website. The becket pin seems to be fixed.

Can it be removed cleanly? If so, how? The relevant Harken manuals don't say a thing about it.

I have a line spliced into it, but I'd like to try a different line, without destroying the splice nor the becket pin.

4db0a50e-5daf-4240-9679-3f70874eb984_lar

Normally the becket pin on Harken blocks is a clevis pin with a ringding trough it on one end - easy to remove and re-install.  I'm not sure I have ever seen one with a fixed backet.  If it is fixed - just use a softshackle to attach a line with an eye splice

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I've done what Christian said re using a soft shackle, but you will have to pull or cut the existing splice apart.  Alternatively, you have to drill out the pin from the dimpled side, cut out the molded in bushing between the cheeks with a dremel and cutting wheel (or a hacksaw) then refit with a bushing and regular clevis pin with ringding.   If there is a long enough splice you might save it by moving it to the side while you cut the bushing material away.  With the latter method you can change lines to your heart's content, but I wouln't do it if you are loading the block to it's max SWL as the molded in bushing material may be needed to achieve that rating.

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2 hours ago, martin.langhoff said:

You guys are echoing my thoughts. I'm getting too fancy.

I'm going to cut the **** splice, and tie a knot like it should have been from day one.

There is so much wrong with the second part of your sentence

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and what would it be? I don't get the whole idea of dropping into a thread and saying something provocative with nothing to back it up. waste of everyone's time.... 

I'd say if it's a multi purchase block like that then it's likely a mainsheet or some other tackle that has line sized for hand grip rather than strength. So likely whatever strength you lose in the knot vs a splice won't be a factor. And if you're someone who likes fine tuning rigging and reusing rope then a knot allows you to easily try different reeving patterns, leads, block combinations and to recycle the rope for other tasks if you move to a different line. 

If you're never going to change the system and/or have limited room for a knot and/or are building a system to absolute minimums then splices are your friend, sure. but I don't see it... particularly with that Harken Carbo stuff... it's not super strong compared to modern line. I'm 99% sure that's a 40mm block so max working load 1,455#. If it's the fixed block (6:1 which I doubt... probably the moving block so 7:1) then that's 242.5# per leg... so you could almost cover that with 2mm Marlow Excel... barely more than whipping twine... so i think by the time you run some 1/4" DPX so you don't cut your fingers off you've got breaking strength 3,700# 3:1 safety = 1,233#, 30% strength lost to knot = 863#... ya, I'm ok with it...

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2 hours ago, overdraft said:

If you're never going to change the system and/or have limited room for a knot and/or are building a system to absolute minimums then splices are your friend, sure. but I don't see it... particularly with that Harken Carbo stuff... it's not super strong compared to modern line. I'm 99% sure that's a 40mm block so max working load 1,455#. If it's the fixed block (6:1 which I doubt... probably the moving block so 7:1) then that's 242.5# per leg... so you could almost cover that with 2mm Marlow Excel... barely more than whipping twine... so i think by the time you run some 1/4" DPX so you don't cut your fingers off you've got breaking strength 3,700# 3:1 safety = 1,233#, 30% strength lost to knot = 863#... ya, I'm ok with it...

Fully agree with you. I always prefer to splice when I can. But a locket becket is something that I don’t consider I good place to splice though. But then again I don’t like becket blocks where the pin cannot be removed. 

The single block in the carbo 40 series have a safe working load of 485 which I think should be about the same safe working load per sheave in the tripple becket block. Big chance that thats a carbo 57 or carbo 75 block if its used for the mainsheet, even if the picture is of a carbo 40. 

Regardless of which carbo block it is and the safe working load of the block. A tripple carbo blocks in most cases don't have a line run to a winch afterwards or have the line led to further blocks for additional purchase . A line that you can grip well (at least 5mm) even if its a cheap polyester should have a higher breaking load that what you can pull by hand even if you use a knot.

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You guys are spot on. This is for a mainsheet on a small foiling cat, 8mm sk78 core, polyester cover, and it goes to a ratchet block, no cleat.

As such, the splice is nice but hardly needed. I paid top dollar for a tapered line that I'm not liking. A replacement line arrived this morning, so the knives are out to cut that splice open...

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Why don't you keep using a tapered line which is a very good solution, but get a large eye so you can use a luggage tag on the becket? Or do the lines still chafe if you use a luggage tag on the tapered line?

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