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GMiller

Awlwood? Anybody use that can review?

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I have minimal exterior teak on my boat, but refuse to use Cetol again.  I have weathered teak now and have considered Awlwood MA for the toerails.  Anybody have some real-world experience?

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Been playing with it for a while now.

You need to use the primer, can be a bit tricky to get an even primer coat which is important with the tinted ones. Lay it on, wipe off the excess. (RHS sample, note mottled appearance)

The Alwood goes on easily enough, a bit more difficult than standard varnish but not as sensitive  as 2-pack. However it cleans up like 2-pack, you can't just put your brush in thinner and leave it,  needs to be cleaned immediately and suspended.

I've couple of test pieces (Alwood and International Schooner, 6 coats each) exposed to full sun and weather. After 18 months the Schooner (left one in pic, bottoms of samples were unexposed) had attracted more dirt and after cleaning was definitely more weathered than the Alwood. The timber under the Schooner had faded more too. (It had been primed just with thinned varnish.)

Also done my dinghy tiller with Alwood. After 6 months racing it still looks good, no dings. Doesn't see a great deal of sun tho'.

Bottom line, next big varnish job I'll be using Alwood.

DSC_0454.JPG

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I have been using Awlwood for the past 4 years. I stripped all the Cetol off, sanded, and followed the Mfg's instructions. I could not be happier with it. It has held up extremly well and is very durable. Our toe rails look outstanding and the Awlwood has taken the constants wear and tear very well. In the spring I sand any areas that may need to be re-touched, and then apply another coat. I usually apply another total coat to the toe rails. If water gets underneath the Awlwood, the teak turns black and it will need to be removed by sanding. Good adheasion is critical to using the primer. I have the clear gloss on all exterior wood surfaces. My teak has a very deep rich luster. The one down side to it, DO NOT get it on your deck or ANY area that you wish not to.  Once dried, it will not come off or wear off, and will need to be removed by sanding. You must tape all areas off very well to keep it where it goes.  Best place to purchase is Merrit Marine in Fla. They carry everything you need. https://www.merrittsupply.com/product/awlgrip-awlwood-ma-clear-gloss-finish/

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I have done my teak toe rails on my First 40.7.   Stripped off the varnish - re-stained with the red stain because the teak was blotchy as it had a yellow tint.  The Awlwood is very easy to work with.  remember you get what you see so have surface prep done correctly.

I prestained with rag - quick wipe down.

1/2 hr later mixed red stain 5% to 10 % with littler Awlwood thinner put a thin coat

3 hrs later added another coat

next day clear Awlwood

3 hrs later clear awlwood

Then waited for a day or so and sanded with 220 cleaned they put another coat of clear.

One season later it looks as good as the day I applied it.  I will do a touch up coat each year after a light sanding.

One poster remarked about taping - get fine line tape to mask off toe rail as the bleed thru will stain the gel coat. 

Old finish.jpg

3 coats unsanded.jpg

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On 1/16/2018 at 11:57 AM, Lucky Dog said:

I have done my teak toe rails on my First 40.7.   Stripped off the varnish - re-stained with the red stain because the teak was blotchy as it had a yellow tint.  The Awlwood is very easy to work with.  remember you get what you see so have surface prep done correctly.

I prestained with rag - quick wipe down.

1/2 hr later mixed red stain 5% to 10 % with littler Awlwood thinner put a thin coat

3 hrs later added another coat

next day clear Awlwood

3 hrs later clear awlwood

Then waited for a day or so and sanded with 220 cleaned they put another coat of clear.

One season later it looks as good as the day I applied it.  I will do a touch up coat each year after a light sanding.

One poster remarked about taping - get fine line tape to mask off toe rail as the bleed thru will stain the gel coat. 

Old finish.jpg

3 coats unsanded.jpg

36.7?

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4 hours ago, kinardly said:

Do you have to stain the stuff to get a similar look to varnish? 

They make clear and 2 different colour tinted primers. You need to use one of them for best results. I've only used a coloured one but did note that the topcoat is very clear.

Because most trad varnishes have a yellow/brown tint you may want to use a tinted primer, depending on the timber used.

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