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So...

i managed to pick up a 7” Lenovo 16 gig tablet new for silly money.

its downloading Navionics maps as I type this, comes with gps and wifi but no cell SIM card.

its the WLAN model, but has a slot for micro sd cards

i am thinking of just setting up the charts and leaving it on the boat, so no need to take the iPad aboard and I still have an iPhone and a Garmin plotter for backup.

the USB charger just runs at 1 amp, so will work fine with a plug in 12v charger.

any other things I could use it for?

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45 minutes ago, Max Rockatansky said:

 the eThings are become our main nav tools

Google translate isn't working so well either....

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Here's my 2 drachmas..

2 years ago I got a used Samsung galaxy tab active, waterproof and shockproof.  Wifi only version, used on ebay for 125 bux.  I got navionics for basic navigation, and sailgrib for routing.  Got an $8 go pro chest harness and adapted it with the industrial velcro, put the same velcro on the back of the tablet and have the tablet basically strapped on my chest.  I adapted the harness so I can flip it open when I need to look at it and secure it to my chest when I'm doing other stuff.  Screen is the best I've used so far in the daylight, of any tablet, phone or computer.  Total cost is less than $200.  If you want to connect to the boat instruments, you can do that with various wifi and bluetooth connections depending on your instruments.

I'm a racing offshore navigator and have used Expedition and other software on big ticket racing programs.  Expedition is great if you have the time and money to devote to it and stay fluent, but it is a beast to stay up on as far as keeping fluent with it's features.  Most of the time, except for very competitive offshore racing, I use the tablet on my chest because I can do almost everything I can do for basic navigation and routing as with Expedition, but I can be topside and more mobile with the little rugged android tablet for a lot less $.

I recently purchased the updated samsung galaxy tab active 2 with a bit more horsepower, because I'm doing a lot of racing offshore this coming summer and want somthing a bit more powerful plus have my old tab active as a backup.  The nice thing about the tab active is the batteries swap out.  Granted you need to get below and be careful when you swap out the battery, but it isn't too big a deal.  Generally I can get a good 20 hours or so per battery.  I did Ft Lauderdale to Key West with it and still had over 30% battery at the finish.

It's cool to actually be more of the on deck crew instead of being a potato in the nav station.  I like to sail, not just look at a screen.  Plus as nav/tactician, it's great to keep eyes out of the boat and have the screen as reference, right there on deck.  You can do that as well with Expedition and a rugged Windows tablet, but it costs a lot more.

This little low cost setup has totally changed the way I sail, for the better.  WAY better.

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3 hours ago, bgytr said:

 The nice thing about the tab active is the batteries swap out. 

What's your experience with replacement batteries?  With Samsung phones, my experience has been that it is almost impossible to find genuine (not knock-off) ones, or if you can find genuine ones they have sat on a shelf for X years and are shite out of the box.

On a separate topic, being an old ham radio hacker (analog), I don't get the crazy concern over the 12V thing in this thread (and perhaps I missed it).  Are today's digital electronics *so* sensitive that running a device spec'd for "12V" on 13.6V is going to nuke 'em?

And for Raz'r (I think it was Raz'r) who reversed the leads and cooked the minix, there's an old analog trick of putting a diode bridge in between the DC jack and the board you are powering.  No matter how you hook up the juice, the polarity is correct on the other side.  There is an attendant voltage drop, and it has to be sized for the current, and yada, yada, yada. . .

 

I do like the Tab Active approach, though. . .

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8 hours ago, bplipschitz said:

On a separate topic, being an old ham radio hacker (analog), I don't get the crazy concern over the 12V thing in this thread (and perhaps I missed it).  Are today's digital electronics *so* sensitive that running a device spec'd for "12V" on 13.6V is going to nuke 'em?

And for Raz'r (I think it was Raz'r) who reversed the leads and cooked the minix, there's an old analog trick of putting a diode bridge in between the DC jack and the board you are powering.  No matter how you hook up the juice, the polarity is correct on the other side.  There is an attendant voltage drop, and it has to be sized for the current, and yada, yada, yada. . .

Voltage sensitive?  Probably not so much, but on this consumer gear there aren't usually any specs that give an allowable voltage range.  So we won't know how far we can push it until we find out the hard way.  I am much more comfortable testing the minimum voltage range.  So far the "12V" computers I've tested can run at least up to +15V without smoking.

Diode bridge for polarity works well, but as you say there is there is a 2-diode voltage drop which may matter when the house battery is low.  You can cut the drop in half by just using a single diode in series with the power lead -- if you connect the power backwards the device won't fry, it just won't run.  For essentially zero drop, put a reverse-polarity diode across the power leads, with a fuse in front of it.  Connect the power backwards and the fuse blows, and the device sees less than a volt of reverse polarity, and only for a moment.

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18 minutes ago, valis said:

Diode bridge for polarity works well, but as you say there is there is a 2-diode voltage drop which may matter when the house battery is low.  You can cut the drop in half by just using a single diode in series with the power lead -- if you connect the power backwards the device won't fry, it just won't run.  For essentially zero drop, put a reverse-polarity diode across the power leads, with a fuse in front of it.  Connect the power backwards and the fuse blows, and the device sees less than a volt of reverse polarity, and only for a moment.

If the voltage drop / power dissipation are a problem and you don't want to blow fuses you might be interested in this method:

 

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58 minutes ago, valis said:

Voltage sensitive?  Probably not so much, but on this consumer gear there aren't usually any specs that give an allowable voltage range.  So we won't know how far we can push it until we find out the hard way.  I am much more comfortable testing the minimum voltage range.  So far the "12V" computers I've tested can run at least up to +15V without smoking.

Diode bridge for polarity works well, but as you say there is there is a 2-diode voltage drop which may matter when the house battery is low.  You can cut the drop in half by just using a single diode in series with the power lead -- if you connect the power backwards the device won't fry, it just won't run.  For essentially zero drop, put a reverse-polarity diode across the power leads, with a fuse in front of it.  Connect the power backwards and the fuse blows, and the device sees less than a volt of reverse polarity, and only for a moment

I've got an Intel NUC as an onboard Pc running directly off the 12vdc supply. The first unit I used was 12vdc rated and it would refuse to start if the input voltage exceeded about 13 volts. The next model I tried was input rated 19 volts but is happy as Larry running on the 12 volt (ish) supply. Because I'm a cheap skate, I only use second hand units but I notice the specs on some newer NUC models do actually have on input rated supply specifation of 12 to 19 vdc.

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On 2/1/2018 at 3:03 PM, Alan H said:

I can do those things, and mostly do, in fact do those things.  Location services is off on my iphone, unless I need it to figure out how to get somewhere and I need to use the maps app.  I don't get advertising directly from Google, either. But I get advertising from Yahoo.  I get phone calls from organizations which seem to know what my online shopping preferences are.   You know what burns me?  Not that I can turn those things off, but that I HAVE to turn those things off to prevent private companies from gathering that much intensely personal information about me.  98% of consumers never bother.  Like my pastor....I explained to Greg that apple google knows the exact route that his 6 year old nephew takes to walk to school, and doesn't that creep him out?  He didn't get it.  His response was that he didn't care if these companies learned a lot about him because it made shopping easier.  That's a direct quote "It makes shopping easier".  I don't know how to respond to that much utter disregard for his own personal privacy.

Because you know, if Google has the data, the Feds can subpoena that.   How would Greg feel about the GOVERNMENT having all that information?

Like everyone, I have my "line", too. I have a friend who doesn't have a credit card for this exact reason.  She pays cash everywhere she goes. I was blown away when I discovered that the Medical School coffeehouse at my University won't take cash..you HAVE to use a credit card.   I still use credit cards.   So I'm not a complete luddite.

Run AdBlock and Ghostery on the iOS devices. Update the lists and kill the trackers regularly. Don't use F*Book. Don't use any Google apps. Turn off location services to any app that doesn't have any business knowing it - I only allow it on Maps and on iNavX and iSailor when they're actively being used. I have not received a targeted listing, or even an ad, in a long, long time. Some sites bitch about it. Fine, I simply don't use them anymore. All I want now is a version of Little Snitch for iOS, and my life would be complete ;-)

As far as I know, Apple doesn't share data with anyone, which pisses off law enforcement. That is a very good sign. They make enough money off the hardware that they don't need to do so. It's the external apps that you need to watch.

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All good advice.  I have ghostery on my home PC. I deleted my facebook account.  I use Duck-Duck Go for searches.  Now I'm deep-sixing my yahoo mail and starting another e-mai which uses end-to-end encryption and the servers are in Switzerland.   This is a PITFA  because I have to change everything over from boat insurance to health insurance to my Dr's office contact to 'FF'ing PayPal..

And I utterly refuse to purchase anything from Amazon.com ever again.  Jeff Bezos can bite it.

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I'm seriously sad that the Mozilla cell phone didn't make it. Even better would be a Mozilla handheld tablet.

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On 4/19/2018 at 1:31 PM, bplipschitz said:

What's your experience with replacement batteries?  With Samsung phones, my experience has been that it is almost impossible to find genuine (not knock-off) ones, or if you can find genuine ones they have sat on a shelf for X years and are shite out of the box.

On a separate topic, being an old ham radio hacker (analog), I don't get the crazy concern over the 12V thing in this thread (and perhaps I missed it).  Are today's digital electronics *so* sensitive that running a device spec'd for "12V" on 13.6V is going to nuke 'em?

And for Raz'r (I think it was Raz'r) who reversed the leads and cooked the minix, there's an old analog trick of putting a diode bridge in between the DC jack and the board you are powering.  No matter how you hook up the juice, the polarity is correct on the other side.  There is an attendant voltage drop, and it has to be sized for the current, and yada, yada, yada. . .

 

I do like the Tab Active approach, though. . .

Ya I did have a hard time finding spare batteries.  I ended up calling Samsung customer support and they pointed me to a website that sold a 3 pack of batteries which I bought.  Fortunately the tab active and active2 use the same batteries so I have 5 batteries which should get me through a Bermuda race with no trouble.

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9 hours ago, bgytr said:

Ya I did have a hard time finding spare batteries.  I ended up calling Samsung customer support and they pointed me to a website that sold a 3 pack of batteries which I bought.  Fortunately the tab active and active2 use the same batteries so I have 5 batteries which should get me through a Bermuda race with no trouble.

Good to know -- thanks.

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On 4/20/2018 at 1:35 PM, Alan H said:

I'm seriously sad that the Mozilla cell phone didn't make it. Even better would be a Mozilla handheld tablet.

Mozilla I trust. Anything Android, NFW. Google has lost control of its ecosystem, and really has no incentive to enforce security aspects of it, as it would just hurt its business model.

The scary thing is that if there had been a Moz device it would probably have been low-bid by Huawei or ZTE. Go ahead and trace their ownership.

I'm not paranoid, just careful.

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On 1/29/2018 at 1:28 PM, olaf hart said:

Navionics in iPad 

Does Navionics in iPad mean that you always need a phone network data connection?  Or is it that you put Navionics on the iPad and it functions as a chart plotter, independent of phone network because the iPad has a GPS and talks to the satellites to get your position?  Or do you simply download Navionics charts to the iPad for a particular area and then you have access to them, like a paper chart, for simple visual reference but without GPS, I.e., not like a mounted/dedicated plotter?

Sorry for the silly questions - just trying to get an idea how it works/how well it works.  

Example: I have Navionics on my iPhone.  It requires access to phone data network.  For local short-distance sailing in summer/good weather, to check my position, I’ll simply turn on Navionics occasionally —only occasionally b/c it burns through the phone data really fast, of course, and phone battery power too.  

How does Navionics work on iPad, as for a phone, meaning you need a data plan for the iPad? Or can you simply use it as an electronic chart, I.e., just for visual reference, instead of a paper chart?  Or?

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1 hour ago, Jud - s/v Sputnik said:

Does Navionics in iPad mean that you always need a phone network data connection?  Or is it that you put Navionics on the iPad and it functions as a chart plotter, independent of phone network because the iPad has a GPS and talks to the satellites to get your position?  Or do you simply download Navionics charts to the iPad for a particular area and then you have access to them, like a paper chart, for simple visual reference but without GPS, I.e., not like a mounted/dedicated plotter?

Sorry for the silly questions - just trying to get an idea how it works/how well it works.  

Example: I have Navionics on my iPhone.  It requires access to phone data network.  For local short-distance sailing in summer/good weather, to check my position, I’ll simply turn on Navionics occasionally —only occasionally b/c it burns through the phone data really fast, of course, and phone battery power too.  

How does Navionics work on iPad, as for a phone, meaning you need a data plan for the iPad? Or can you simply use it as an electronic chart, I.e., just for visual reference, instead of a paper chart?  Or?

Navionics on my Android phone does not need a data connection, as long as you download the relevant charts first.

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Just download the maps on Navionics and your IPad or android is a stand alone plotter.

you need a GPS model, and it helps to have occasional wifi to upgrade the maps.

lately the navionics has been trying to get me permanently on line, I just ignore it. It seems to be since Garmin bought them out.

a few weeks ago I picked up a new Lenovo 7” tablet without a phone function but with an onboard GPS for $40 on sale, added navionics for $20, have a dedicated plotter for the boat for peanuts.

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4 hours ago, DavidC59 said:

Some iPads have GPS capability, some do not.

The ones that have GPS are the ones with cellular support.  You need those models, but don’t need to have it registered with a provider or anything. 

We use an iPad 2 mini with navionics in the cockpit and as a backup.  It is cheap and works pretty well, except when it overheats from being in the sun. We have a Lifeproof case on it to keep it waterproof. I only turn it on when needed since the battery doesn’t last more than 8–10 hours with the GPS on, and it’s easy to sail for longer than that. 

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4 hours ago, Alex W said:

The ones that have GPS are the ones with cellular support.  You need those models, but don’t need to have it registered with a provider or anything. 

We use an iPad 2 mini with navionics in the cockpit and as a backup.  It is cheap and works pretty well, except when it overheats from being in the sun. We have a Lifeproof case on it to keep it waterproof. I only turn it on when needed since the battery doesn’t last more than 8–10 hours with the GPS on, and it’s easy to sail for longer than that. 

It's also really easy to charge from a cigarette-lighter type socket with a 12V-to-USB adapter - we got ours when a local bank was tossing them into the crowd during our July 4th parade 2 years ago ;-)

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On 5/27/2018 at 9:55 AM, Jud - s/v Sputnik said:

Does Navionics in iPad mean that you always need a phone network data connection?  Or is it that you put Navionics on the iPad and it functions as a chart plotter, independent of phone network because the iPad has a GPS and talks to the satellites to get your position?  Or do you simply download Navionics charts to the iPad for a particular area and then you have access to them, like a paper chart, for simple visual reference but without GPS, I.e., not like a mounted/dedicated plotter?

Sorry for the silly questions - just trying to get an idea how it works/how well it works.  

Example: I have Navionics on my iPhone.  It requires access to phone data network.  For local short-distance sailing in summer/good weather, to check my position, I’ll simply turn on Navionics occasionally —only occasionally b/c it burns through the phone data really fast, of course, and phone battery power too.  

How does Navionics work on iPad, as for a phone, meaning you need a data plan for the iPad? Or can you simply use it as an electronic chart, I.e., just for visual reference, instead of a paper chart?  Or?

My iPad does not have GPS, but I am feeding it GPS and AIS info from my nav system via WiFi. So far it works great :)

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FYI - WINDOWS 10 WARNING -

I am fighting with Windows 10 for work and a couple home computers. I cannot possibly imagine a worse OS to use on a boat. For a nav computer, use ANYTHING else - really!

( I added another old laptop to my collection, so right now I have one XP and one Mint)

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9 hours ago, rattus32 said:

It's also really easy to charge from a cigarette-lighter type socket with a 12V-to-USB adapter 

You can’t charge an iPad and keep it waterproof at the same time. 

This and overheating in the sun are major issues for using it as a primary nav device. 

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7 hours ago, kent_island_sailor said:

FYI - WINDOWS 10 WARNING -

I am fighting with Windows 10 for work and a couple home computers. I cannot possibly imagine a worse OS to use on a boat. For a nav computer, use ANYTHING else - really!

( I added another old laptop to my collection, so right now I have one XP and one Mint)

FIFY.

FKT

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On 1/30/2018 at 7:25 AM, Alan H said:

OK, so 90% of what I'm going to write is probably old hat news to most of you guys, but what the hey.................etc.
What' your setup?

I have an EeePC 10" netbook runnung XP which I bought new in 2010 for AU$396 as a dedicated nav computer. I chose the EeePC mainly because it uses a 7.2v battery so is quite happy to be recharged from the 12v house supply. Just to be safe and to protect against any unforseen spikes in the house supply from the OB charging system I also bought a Asus DC adapter which will accept 10v to 18v input for a 12v 3amp output. That cost about $100. As the EeePC isn't equipped with a GPS receiver I also bought a  Gosget Sirf Star III USB GPS receiver which cost about $60. I also bought 10 minature optical mice (or is that mouses) with the retractable cables at $3 each. So the all up cost was just under $600.

I run SeaClearII  which, fortunately for me because I too am cheap, is available as a free download.

http://www.sping.com/seaclear/

SeaClear comes with an included chart calibrating utility so charts can be scanned and calibrated for use. I sail on Moreton Bay (Aust) and the state govt has produced an A4 sized book of "chartlets" for the local inshore waters. As the book is wire bound it is easy to wind the wire out and then scan all the charts on an A4 scanner. It's a bit of work but once you get into a rythm it's something that can be done while watching TV. If he charts are branded CC6 (Creative  Commons) you can get them commercially scanned onto a stick or disc. The beauty of having e-charts that I have scanned myself is that what I see on the screen is identical to my paper charts. If my Enav fails then when I pull out the paper charts I am looking at exactly the same thing that was on the screen. Touch wood it hasn't yet failed, and I first started using it Aug 8th 2010. In that time I have logged and recorded about 4500 nm round Moreton Bay. 

I have tried using OpenCPN but found it to be a bit "clunky" and I could never get comfortable with it.

I'll post some screen shots after work tonight.

Cheers etc.

 

 

 

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It took me awhile to get used to OpenCPN, but now I really like it. SeaClear has a very limited feature set in comparison.

OTOH it works, is very easy to learn, and runs on really old hardware using Windows 95 or 98 just fine.

 

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We navigated from Australia to Mexico (via Indian Ocean/Atlantic/Panama Canal not the shorter way across the Pacific) with:

- 10" Google Nexus tablet running Navionics software and charts (built in GPS in tablet)

- low power Intel NUC desktop + 21" monitor running Open CPN software and slightly pirated CMAP charts + Google Satellite images. Garmin 72 handheld fed GPS data to the computer

It helped that we were a catamaran so going inside to look at the big monitor was just a step away from the cockpit.

The tablet was ok to read under the bimini but direct tropical sun washed it out too much.

I'd so something very similar again if doing offshore sailing. Navionics high res (tablet) charts were cheap - about $60 for an ocean.

https://dbe2w38xsulyl.cloudfront.net/contentmanager/content/Mobile_coverages_EN.pdf

Compare that with $200 for a region for a chartplotter.

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We lucked out and had paper charts for the whole world (almost). A very rich guy's mega yacht was going into refit for 3-4 years. The captain didn't want to spend the next 4 years correcting all the paper charts for the world. So he sold them on craigslist locally cheaply and was going to buy all new ones when the refit was done. We sold off the ones we didn't need (like Korea and Japan and Antarctica) before we left.

I had a stack of paper about 1.4m high of BA charts (unfolded). It was very, very heavy so we only took folios for an ocean at a time, and when one of us flew back to visit home, we would visit my parent's garage and get the next stack. Each time we would have suitcase half full of very heavy paper.

Next time I'd have a very minimal paper chart collection.

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45 minutes ago, Zonker said:

Next time I'd have a very minimal paper chart collection.

Yes, the day your electronics give up on you, if you choose well your harbour you can come in with limited information. 

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Well find me a sailing yacht with a few redundant GPS/chart plotting systems, that has been hit by lightning, and lost all electronic charting capability.

Including a tablet you can put in the oven during lightning storms. 

 

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As an aside, i did not think it necessary to specify that the oven be off and cool when telling a young friend to use the oven as a Faraday cage.  It turned out to be necessary. Adjust your curriculum accordingly.

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15 hours ago, Zonker said:

We lucked out and had paper charts for the whole world (almost). A very rich guy's mega yacht was going into refit for 3-4 years. The captain didn't want to spend the next 4 years correcting all the paper charts for the world. So he sold them on craigslist locally cheaply and was going to buy all new ones when the refit was done. We sold off the ones we didn't need (like Korea and Japan and Antarctica) before we left.

I had a stack of paper about 1.4m high of BA charts (unfolded). It was very, very heavy so we only took folios for an ocean at a time, and when one of us flew back to visit home, we would visit my parent's garage and get the next stack. Each time we would have suitcase half full of very heavy paper.

Next time I'd have a very minimal paper chart collection.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but did you also have a sextant to use with the paper charts?

I do enjoy reading about how you handled certain tasks while circumnavigating. Very informative.

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9 hours ago, Zonker said:

Well find me a sailing yacht with a few redundant GPS/chart plotting systems, that has been hit by lightning, and lost all electronic charting capability.

Including a tablet you can put in the oven during lightning storms. 

 

I've never heard of it but I can imagine that with a bit of "luck" you can end up with no electricity. Stuff like a flooded bilge or the load balancer deciding that it had enough, batteries destroyed by an accidental deep discharge.

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On 5/27/2018 at 9:23 PM, Alex W said:

The ones that have GPS are the ones with cellular support.  You need those models, but don’t need to have it registered with a provider or anything. 

We use an iPad 2 mini with navionics in the cockpit and as a backup.  It is cheap and works pretty well, except when it overheats from being in the sun. We have a Lifeproof case on it to keep it waterproof. I only turn it on when needed since the battery doesn’t last more than 8–10 hours with the GPS on, and it’s easy to sail for longer than that. 

Not entirely true.  I have an old Samsung tablet that has GPS and no phone service.  Download the maps (navionics or google maps, depending upon what you're using it for), turn the GPS on, and it works a charm.  Battery also seems to last a lot longer with WiFi turned off, even with GPS on (which is the opposite of what I have experienced with phones).

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When I said “the ones” I specifically meant iPads.  It is true of all iPads  

I also used a Nexus 7 as a nav tablet at one point because it was really cheap, had a gps chip, and ran navionics. 

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8 minutes ago, Alex W said:

I also used a Nexus 7 as a nav tablet at one point because it was really cheap, had a gps chip, and ran navionics. 

I still use and love my Nexus 7. I dread the day it goes the way of all silicon.

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I was (finally) recently forced to upgrade my aging smartphone.  Verizon offered me a Galaxy tab E for $50 so I took it.

I had a complete shopping list for a Raspberry Pi setup but in a few minutes, I had this thing running OpenCPN with all the charts.  It has GPS but I can also use my bluetooth DUAL GPS puck with it and a bluetooth keyboard.  The screen is a little smaller than I'd like, but that's about the only sacrifice I made.

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On 5/27/2018 at 5:28 PM, DavidC59 said:

Some iPads have GPS capability, some do not.

If you have cell capability you have an internal GPS, fyi, so Navionics will follow you perfectly

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Got both my old laptops going at once.  The lower right of the lefthand laptop is the AIS 'radar" display. This is a power hungry setup for sure, but it is actually nice to see local and zoomed out displays. I might actually run this way this weekend and see how I like it. The lefthand laptop is reading the UDP over wife and right one is plugged into the serial cable.

 

nav.jpg

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Maybe it's just me but this thread makes my head hurt.  I though the whole idea of going off on a boat was got get away from all the electronic crap.  If you want to navigate on the cheap, get a compass a, paper chart, a Garmin etrex (for $89 on Amazon) and a pair of binoculars. 

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5 hours ago, HookEm said:

Maybe it's just me but this thread makes my head hurt.  I though the whole idea of going off on a boat was got get away from all the electronic crap.  If you want to navigate on the cheap, get a compass a, paper chart, a Garmin etrex (for $89 on Amazon) and a pair of binoculars. 

"E-Nav" is the very first word in the title of this thread.  If you're not interested in it, that could be a useful clue.

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On 6/12/2018 at 4:26 PM, SailNDive said:

If you have cell capability you have an internal GPS, fyi, so Navionics will follow you perfectly

I was shopping around for e-nav options, and wanted a tablet or something else portable. I have an old ipad 2 that was not longer working and would freeze every time I turned it on. So I was going to sell that, to buy the new. But I noticed the old ipad is one of the models with a gps reciever. So I tried a different route and did a factory restart on it to clear out all the old crap and only installed an eNav program. It was a free version that is crappy, but it tracked us just fine on a test, and the ipad ran without issue. 

So now I am looking to upgrade to some real e-nav software. I am looking for something simple but reliable - doesn't need to overlay any additional information. just tell me where i am with accurate charts. Think Navionics is the way to go?

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I’ve been using Aquamap for the 3 months on my iPad. Quite impressed with features and stability, as well as the active captain overlay. $19 I believe.

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31 minutes ago, freewheelin said:

I was shopping around for e-nav options, and wanted a tablet or something else portable. I have an old ipad 2 that was not longer working and would freeze every time I turned it on. So I was going to sell that, to buy the new. But I noticed the old ipad is one of the models with a gps reciever. So I tried a different route and did a factory restart on it to clear out all the old crap and only installed an eNav program. It was a free version that is crappy, but it tracked us just fine on a test, and the ipad ran without issue. 

So now I am looking to upgrade to some real e-nav software. I am looking for something simple but reliable - doesn't need to overlay any additional information. just tell me where i am with accurate charts. Think Navionics is the way to go?

I have an old iPad2 and I run Transas iSailor on it. It runs smoothly and without glitches. The software is free but you pay a one time cost for charts. They aren't terribly expensive. You receive free chart updates when they are released.

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