Raz'r

The Refit - Andrews 43

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1 hour ago, Zonker said:

White Krylon rattle can. Move on. Scantlings sound about right too. Nylock nuts on the pins if threaded at the ends.

Thanks - yep on the bottom, top one is a repurposed pin from my old Contour 34 Trimaran - so I'll cut to fit. I suppose I can thread it, that would make sense....

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5 minutes ago, Raz'r said:

Thanks - yep on the bottom, top one is a repurposed pin from my old Contour 34 Trimaran - so I'll cut to fit. I suppose I can thread it, that would make sense....

hmmm.... thinking through the (happily, few) times I've had to use an emergency rudder, I'm not sure it's a great idea to depend on fitting and tightening a nylok nut while hanging over the transom in conditions that led to needing an emergency rudder.

stainless pins that can be secured with quick-clips or clevis pins or something might be worth thinking about.

Depending on whether you'll be installing with the blade in the casette or not, might be worth thinking through the pros and cons of using one continuous pin or two separate pins.  One pin is more solid and less work, but if the blade is in it might be hard to get it all the way through both sets of holes in one pass.  ymmv.

Oh, and have spare pins.  #VoiceOfExperience

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No, the intent was fit a nut only if the pin was already threaded.

S.S. hairpins if the cassette is not already fitted for the whole race. Or clevis pins and bring lots.

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1 hour ago, Zonker said:

White Krylon rattle can. Move on. Scantlings sound about right too. Nylock nuts on the pins if threaded at the ends.

OK, stick to pins..

Sledracr, no need to fit nuts or pins- as the cassette will be mounted for the whole race. If needed, slide the rudder in, slip the tiller into the socket on the rudder head and you're driving again.  Not racing, but driving. 

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Fit washers between pins and carbon otherwise the pins will chew up the fitting.

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42 minutes ago, Zonker said:

Fit washers between pins and carbon otherwise the pins will chew up the fitting.

yep.

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Hendo 30 about 1/3 the displacement of your boat.  Sure this will be strong enough?

Can you reinforce the Hendo blade?

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8 minutes ago, vdm said:

Hendo 30 about 1/3 the displacement of your boat.  Sure this will be strong enough?

Can you reinforce the Hendo blade?

There was a long discussion in the archives about rudder loads. IIRC it comes down to “how fast will you drag it through the water sideways.” The example being that the load on a laser rudder in a broach is the same as if it was dragged through the water sideways attached to a barge. It was cross section x size x speed that mattered.

my boat isn’t faster than a hendo 30, and we won’t be racing so no surfs to 20. We also will only have 2/3rds of it in the water.

given what I’ve seen as recommended designs for emergency rudders, it’s much stronger than those....

should be good.

 

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Mast is down. Running new wires. Found the reason the wind wasn't working, the cable was cut in half...  VHF Coax won't meet Race requirements, replacing that. New tricolor, new steamer/deck light. All new standing rigging and spreader gusseting where needed.

The V-drive was non-repairable, replaced

Keel is off.  30 years and the bolts look perfect.

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56 minutes ago, Raz'r said:

Keel is off.  30 years and the bolts look perfect.

I love how you just casually drop that in as a minor job. :lol:

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1 minute ago, MiddayGun said:

I love how you just casually drop that in as a minor job. :lol:

true, none of this is trivial. But I can say the crew is very happy to have the confidence that the keel will be with this boat for another 30 years!

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The spirally stuff is sealant. Probably 5200 given it's tenacity.  We'll give it a nice polish, re-bed and re-torque and re-glass it all in.

image.png.1663afd237d83eb1f7148242334258bf.png

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Any particular method to it?
Goop up with sealant & immediately torque up? Or do you work up to full torque over a period of days?

Mines getting to the point of needing a re-bed. I'm getting away with packing in sealant from the outside at the moment.

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4 minutes ago, MiddayGun said:

Any particular method to it?
Goop up with sealant & immediately torque up? Or do you work up to full torque over a period of days?

Mines getting to the point of needing a re-bed. I'm getting away with packing in sealant from the outside at the moment.

I would torque up over a couple of days, or you will squeeze all the sealant out 

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3 hours ago, jesposito said:

I would torque up over a couple of days, or you will squeeze all the sealant out 

Do you really want a gasket on the keel though?
Sounds like it could allow a bit of flex.

As long as there's enough sealant left to stop it leaking that's surely all that's required?

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Glue that fucker on!

Clean both surfaces well, use fresh new 5200 applied generously.

Torque it up to spec and clean off the excess. Re-torque the bolts after the first good sail.

Job done. Too bad about the guy that has to take it off twenty years later.

The torque it up over several days is an old wives tale that just lets things flex. A bad idea for stanchions also.

 

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8 hours ago, ropetrick said:

The torque it up over several days is an old wives tale that just lets things flex. A bad idea for stanchions also.

Don Casey has to take the blame for that "gasket effect" idea. Or at least for making it widespread "common knowledge".

One thing he really got wrong in an otherwise excellent book.

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On 3/9/2020 at 10:58 AM, Raz'r said:

The spirally stuff is sealant. Probably 5200 given it's tenacity.  We'll give it a nice polish, re-bed and re-torque and re-glass it all in.

image.png.1663afd237d83eb1f7148242334258bf.png

did dennis build that boat? i can't remember, but glad to see it in such good condition and getting all the loves.

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On 3/9/2020 at 10:58 AM, Raz'r said:

The spirally stuff is sealant. Probably 5200 given it's tenacity.  We'll give it a nice polish, re-bed and re-torque and re-glass it all in.

image.png.1663afd237d83eb1f7148242334258bf.png

Wow - I've never seen an old keel look that good. I'd try and find out what that sealant is - it's sure the way to go.

A nice countersink on the bottom of the bolts holes would be extra insurance.

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2 hours ago, bigrpowr said:

did dennis build that boat? i can't remember, but glad to see it in such good condition and getting all the loves.

He did!

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21 hours ago, Raz'r said:

He did!

he's a good man, and obviously did a great job building that boat. you are a lucky man and i still want a ride one day!

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I used to laugh at @B.J. Porter's head rebuilds - so maybe it was karma that the mounting bolts were all corroded and the damn thing spilled on me...  Not sure the head has ever seen 2 people in it before

 

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image.thumb.png.d30a3041bcf3bf412ed900d45eed5317.png

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42 minutes ago, Raz'r said:

image.thumb.png.d30a3041bcf3bf412ed900d45eed5317.png

 

"Why am I late for dinner?  Because Dennis was down at the boat with me, giving me a little head."

I shouldn't laugh.  I need to do this too.  But honestly, Raz, that pitch didn't break.  

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6 minutes ago, Lex Teredo said:

 

"Why am I late for dinner?  Because Dennis was down at the boat with me, giving me a little head."

I shouldn't laugh.  I need to do this too.  But honestly, Raz, that pitch didn't break.  

It's worth the jokes!  After all the humor I saw in BJs project, I had to take the karmic lumps.

Better than finding out the bolts weren't up to the task sitting on the thing when we stuff a wave....

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True. My crew is about half female, including my wife.  They'd like a better head.  (Oh go ahead, more jokes here...)

That may be a midsummer project though.  Too much stuff going on right now just getting ready for late spring racing. 

 

 

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If it's good head your after install an electric for the ladies.

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28 minutes ago, SloopJonB said:

If it's good head your after install an electric for the ladies.

let's not get crazy!

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3 hours ago, Raz'r said:

I used to laugh at @B.J. Porter's head rebuilds - so maybe it was karma that the mounting bolts were all corroded and the damn thing spilled on me...  Not sure the head has ever seen 2 people in it before

 

image.thumb.png.9a570a9bd944755a8a3fea1f0a2f3edc.png

 

Be thankful for the gussets on that bottom flange on the porcelain bowl. And don't ask how I know this is important..

Looks like a great boat. Congratulations and I hope you have a lot of fun with her.

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52 minutes ago, Cruisin Loser said:

Be thankful for the gussets on that bottom flange on the porcelain bowl. And don't ask how I know this is important..

Looks like a great boat. Congratulations and I hope you have a lot of fun with her.

Thanks - we will, but looks like we just got a shelter in place warning.

Looks like it's time to sew up the new pipe berths, and some other fiddly stuff. 

 

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Can't sail? Make it pretty I guess

 

image.png.2e3e80f28a998bd58fee230aac083499.png

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2 minutes ago, ropetrick said:

I love the blue pin striping!

haha

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We will also paint this year. We already did the decks before launching. Dennis suggested we wait until we stop bashing the topsides, so we did. Still never dinged the topsides, but it is the original 1983 gelcoat, and it is getting very thin.

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4 minutes ago, carcrash said:

We will also paint this year. We already did the decks before launching. Dennis suggested we wait until we stop bashing the topsides, so we did. Still never dinged the topsides, but it is the original 1983 gelcoat, and it is getting very thin.

Yeah, I have a couple years left of the LPU topsides, so happy with the roll-tip I’ll likely do that when it’s time.

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15 minutes ago, Irrational 14 said:

Looking good. What non skid product did you end up using again?

Just went with the Awlgrip dust. 
 

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3 hours ago, Raz'r said:

Just went with the Awlgrip dust. 
 

when you expect to be ready to go? it's gonna be awesome.

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7 minutes ago, bigrpowr said:

when you expect to be ready to go? it's gonna be awesome.

Oh, it'll take me a couple days to reinstall hardware, but we're looking at moving away from jib tracks to floaters, so we need to noodle on that. Everything else is ready to go. Need to calibrate the new instrumentation of course.

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